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Is it normal for a b20a to burn oil? It may have a leak but not sufficient enough to be a big problem. Does anybody have this problem or have heard of a b20a burning oil?
 

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Time for a rebuild on that B20 block. If you did not do a rebuild when you go the lude, I can pretty much guarantee that it was abused and the ring lands are damaged and are in need of a replacement, and since you will have to open up the motor then I recommend replacing everything in there.
 

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The percentage lost according to the dipstick is not proportional to any quart size value. 3/4 on the dipstick might only be about 1/4 of 1 quart oil loss.

All motors burn a little bit or oil. If you don't see smoke from the tailpipe at any RPM, chances are you are fine. If you want to keep it running right, change the PCV valve out every 6 months. This allows positive crankcase pressure to escape from the engine as gas instead of liquid oil going through the rings.

If the oil level was on the top mark and you drove the car around for 3,000 miles, it is ok to be on the lower mark. That would be normal oil loss from an old Honda engine. If you lose more than that you could have a leak or burning oil from the piston rings. A new PCV valve will help minimize either of those problems. It is also possible you have leaking valve seals.
 

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If the oil level was on the top mark and you drove the car around for 3,000 miles, it is ok to be on the lower mark. That would be normal oil loss from an old Honda engine. If you lose more than that you could have a leak or burning oil from the piston rings. A new PCV valve will help minimize either of those problems. It is also possible you have leaking valve seals.

I'm sorry I have to disagree with this, going through a quart of oil in 3000 miles is excessive IMO. My never rebuilt B20a struggles to burn 1/4 a quart in 3000 miles...

That said, if the motor is otherwise ok you should have no problem getting a lot more miles out of it as long as you keep an eye on the oil level. You could also try switching to a heavier oil, like 10w40, that should slow it down.
 

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If you have no leaks, dizzy and oil cooler likely and hard to notice and can leak ALOT...

Your rings are probably stuck in the ring grooves, very common on b20a's
Short of rebuilding the engine you may be able to free them up with a solvent such as carb cleaner down each plug hole (about 1/3 cup) and a compressed air fitting and (low pressure) airline to force the solvent past the rings (after a 'soak' time and repeat a few times)

If done correctly, it should free up the rings, the oil rings are usually the worst for sticking due to more space for gunk to build up.

DO NOT try this unless you know what you are doing, drain oil, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START WITH SOLVENT IN PAN!

Also place a spoonful of good lightweight oil down each plug hole afterwards and spin engine on starter a dozen or so times with ecu fuse out to re-lube cylinder walls and rings.

Fill with decent cheap oil, replace ecu fuse and run for 20 mins, drain oil again, remove sump and clean it out, clean oil pickup screen and is a good idea to replace o-ring on oil pickup, and the o-ring and split pin on oil pump pressure relief valve (careful of spring) while in there.

Replace sump, fill with a quality oil, ie. penrite hpr15 semi-synthetic or such, start and warm it up, check for good oil pressure, drive it like ya stole it, and if done correctly, it will feel like a totally different animal and your oil consumption problem will be resolved :)

DISCLAIMER - AGAIN: IF YOU ARE NOT SURE WHAT YOU ARE DOING OR ARE UNSURE DO NOT DO THIS! Carb cleaner is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! a crankcase full of vapor or spilled solvent is a recipe for disaster were it to ignite. It will also attack paint and some rubber components if in contact and not washed off straight away.
Attempting to start engine with solvent in pan will DESTROY every bearing in your engine!!!
Forcing compressed air down plug hole can cause engine to ROTATE, be carefull, use LOW pressure, leave in high gear, handbrake and chock wheels.
Now if you have your head screwed on and understand basic common sense, this may well save you a rebuild. Compression test before and after to see the difference.
You can also use CRC instead of carb cleaner, it is a very light lubricant, is probably better for your health, less flammable, but not quite as effective.

If the above doesn't work I know a few blokes, who swear by steam cleaning the carbon from inside an engine using a carefully administered fog of water through intake whilst engine is hot and running at high idle. I guess at a last resort it may be worth a try but there is a VERY real risk of hydrolocking the engine if too much water is introduced at any one time. A water injection style setup would be the safest option if one were to try.
 

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^^^repped you for this Tazi, thats really good info and could save quite a few members some serious coin and headaches. if anyone cant follow this information, they shouldn't attempt it, but it doesn't get any more straight forward than this.
 

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My B20a5 is going from the full mark on the dipstick, to the add mark in about 400-500 KM. No smoke visible until about 4500 rpm. So stupid.
 

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My B20a5 is going from the full mark on the dipstick, to the add mark in about 400-500 KM. No smoke visible until about 4500 rpm. So stupid.
Mine too!. but when the smoke is visible, nothing behind me is, so this probably will not work for me. its o.k. though, as i knew this might happen to my poor b21, i rebuilt a spare a5 for this just in case moment.
 

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Mine too!. but when the smoke is visible, nothing behind me is, so this probably will not work for me. its o.k. though, as i knew this might happen to my poor b21, i rebuilt a spare a5 for this just in case moment.
very confusing. But OK :)
 

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That sounds like a piston ring problem. If it smoked at 6800 RPMs, I wouldn't worry too much yet. But you say it smokes at 4500 RPMs, that sounds like a ring problem.

Also, I did not say 1 quart per oil change is ok... I had stated that the level on the dipstick is not proportional to any quart value. So 1/4 of a quart every 3000 miles would be ok.

1/4 quart = 1 cup
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yea i checked today im not sure how but i checked the oil again today and it was level at the second mark. I guess where it was parked was up a hill i did not notice that but i checked it out and yea it is fine. Thanks for all the info it leaked oil before but that was because of the oil pan gasket was broken. I freaked out because i almost got t boned this past weekend and i had to turn and brake and get out of the way. The stupid guy had a red for awhile and i had a green. Anyways when i was braking i slid off the road since there was salt on the side of the road and went off the asphalt and into the median. The car hit the pavement hard since its low and the grass part was way lower than the asphalt i thought perhaps the oil pan was leaking again. I guess i got lucky.
 

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That sounds like a piston ring problem. If it smoked at 6800 RPMs, I wouldn't worry too much yet. But you say it smokes at 4500 RPMs, that sounds like a ring problem.

Also, I did not say 1 quart per oil change is ok... I had stated that the level on the dipstick is not proportional to any quart value. So 1/4 of a quart every 3000 miles would be ok.

1/4 quart = 1 cup
Well its hard to be sure its exactly at 4500 rpm, cause its so bloody cold out here. It always looks like my cars smoking at -30 celcius. Its probably a little higher. Maybe 5500

Oh. And get a load of this. Didnt start till AFTER i replaced the HG and did a bunch of maitenance.
 

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No i think it is just steam coming out of the muffler but what color will the smoke be if it was oil? Black right?
no, black is a extreme rich condition, excess fuel. blue is oil and if its real bad it will smell nasty, white and sweet smelling is coolant. look under the car if its not smoking its probably leaking like most of them do
 
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