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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For a long time now I've been quite annoyed with the stock engine torque rod, otherwise known as the "dog bone mount". It's job is to limit engine rotation as torque is applied to the wheels. For the most part it does a fair job but after awhile the bushings inside it get sloppy, allowing for excessive engine movement when taking off from a stop and shifting gears. And for what it does I've always thought it was just way too big, and it seems like it's always in the way when I'm trying to work on the engine. At first I thought the solution was to make a new smaller one, and that would be ok. But then I started thinking about how lots of other much larger engines don't have a torque mount at all, and they get along just fine. So why the hell do we need one? The answer is that we have BIG MUSHY ENGINE MOUNTS. Now granted, big mushy engine mounts make for a smooth quiet ride with minimal noise and engine vibration. But honestly my car is no longer smooth or quiet because of the stiff suspension and reworked exhaust. So what to do?

Find a new stiffer engine mount that limits engine rotation enough so that the stupid "dog bone mount" is no longer needed. And preferably find a way to do it that is relatively cheap and uses commonly available parts.

Enter the ubiquitous GM transmission mount from Energy suspension:




http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1108G/



These things are common as dirt and cheap because they're used on about a million different GM cars going back well into the 1960s. Even the local Autozone normally has them in stock. So how do we use it as an engine mount? Well the overall shape is actually quite similar to our stock engine mounts, a single bolt on top with two mounting tabs on the bottom. Except that the mounting tabs are not quite in the right place and it's a little too short. Hmm, what we need is an adapter. Something like this:








This is an adapter bracket I made up from 1" x 2" steel tubing and 1" steel angle. There are 2 square nuts tacked in under the top holes for the poly mount to bolt to. The side tabs bolt to the cross member using the stock mount holes and bolts. The stock engine bracket then bolts right to the center hole in the poly mount.








It's so simple I almost can't believe nobody has done it yet. Right now I only have this on the front side and I haven't tried it on the road yet, but it's already solid enough that the engine has much less movement when rocking the car back and forth in gear, even with the dog bone removed. Of course it does vibrate more at idle, but that's to be expected. And to me it's a small price to pay.

I did make a second one for the back and I'll be putting it on eventually but I want to try it with just the front mount and see how it does. Obviously I'll let you guys know when I find out.


Something appears to be missing...






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You never cease to amaze me. For sure let us know how it holds up. If it works well I will most likely make one for mine. I have a bit of a clearance issue between the factory mount and my downpipe. They don't touch, but they are closer than I would like for them to be.
 

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wow that looks quite amazing its so professional look. i mean its something i expect to see from a company . really u should make those for us and sell them. id buy one .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very impressive indeed Chris!

Do you intend to convert the side engine mount too, or just the front and maybe back? It sounds like just the front will be a great improvement, I look forward to hearing how it performs on the road.

The stock side mount I think is just fine. It mostly just keeps the engine from tipping sideways; there isn't any significant force on it.



wow that looks quite amazing its so professional look. i mean its something i expect to see from a company . really u should make those for us and sell them. id buy one .

I was actually thinking about doing just that, but I want to road test it first. I'm pretty sure it will work but I want to test it to make sure. If I do make them there are some dimensions I might change a little. It fits ok but it was kinda tight going in and I think it ends up being a little higher than the stock mount, because the stock mount compresses with the weight of the engine.

In fact, if someone could take a measurement for me it would be helpful. I need to know how high the top of the valve cover is in the engine bay. Here are a couple pics to illustrate:








If anyone wants to try this, make sure whatever you use to span the bay is straight, otherwise the measurement will be wrong. It would also be cool to have this measurement on a DX and an SI since they might be different. What's cool is that if I get all the dimensions right, the same part will work for the front and rear mounts on any 2g Prelude, and should also work on any 3g Accord as well.

As far as looking nice, I can't take all the credit. The adapter pieces and front bracket were powder coated by a local place. It was surprisingly cheap and they turned out way better than I could ever do with just painting them. I really despise painting. From now on if I think it would be good to have something painted, I'm just going to take it to them. It's so worth it.


EDIT: Oh, and I'll still post up the dimensions even if I do decide to make more of these. I just want to make sure they good first.



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I was actually thinking about doing just that, but I want to road test it first. I'm pretty sure it will work but I want to test it to make sure. If I do make them there are some dimensions I might change a little. It fits ok but it was kinda tight going in and I think it ends up being a little higher than the stock mount, because the stock mount compresses with the weight of the engine.
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If you do produce more of these I will certainly be down for one (or two?), and probably will poly-fill the side one just for added durability. (It would also be a good opportunity for me to get that gasket set through you at the same time).

If I get a chance, I will try to make a measurement for you on my EX.

Again, terrific ingenuity!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
could you not just measure the distance from the front cross member to the engine side mounting bracket?

either way it looks great man

Well I did that first, and I measured the stock mount itself. Both came out to 3" tall, same as the new mount. But for some reason it seems like the engine ended up being a little higher with the new mount. Not much, just a little bit. IDK. Could be I'm just imagining it.



It's about an inch and a half or like 38.5-39mm on my si.


Dude, you rock! One other question. Is your front engine bracket a stamped and welded part like mine or is it a cast piece? Some of the 3g Accords have a cast style bracket that's shaped a little differently and might account for the height difference if the SI also has this part. 1/2" is pretty close though.


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Your mounts looks cool but I don't think it will work for a long period of time.

This ply mount is meant to be used in compression. When our engines apply force to the mount, they actually pull on it. I ripped a few front mounts when I removed my torque rod.

The only mount that stood the test of time so far is my modded 3rd gen lude mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Your mounts looks cool but I don't think it will work for a long period of time.

This ply mount is meant to be used in compression. When our engines apply force to the mount, they actually pull on it. I ripped a few front mounts when I removed my torque rod.

The only mount that stood the test of time so far is my modded 3rd gen lude mount.


Excellent! I was hoping there was someone around that had messed with alternative engine mounts.

As far as the GM poly mount, I don't have a picture of exactly how it's used, but I'm thinking it's probably used on the tail end of the transmission in a standard rear drive driveline. This would mean that the transmission is sitting on top of it, but that there will also be a twisting force. A twisting force is not quite the same as the direct tension you would get on our front mounts, but it would tend to pull the mount apart in a similar way.

But the reason I'm not so concerned about it is this:





The interlocking design (I hope) should keep the mount from tearing apart with tensional forces. I guess only time will tell though.


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