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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This writeup is meant to be a simple guide to remove your hideous ABS unit. I did this with my engine out of the car. This procedure is very easy, you just got to dive in and do it!

Tools needed:
12mm Socket for the ABS mounting bolts
10mm Socket for misc brackets & brake lines
Vice Grips for the degraded brake line bolts




So here are 2 pictures of the ABS unit.




Start by lifting the fuse box out of the way and disconnecting the harness itself.



10mm to loosen and remove master cylinder lines




Vice Grip to break free the lines to the brakes themselves. The metal has weakened over the years so the 10mm will just round the bolts off.




12mm to remove the 3 bolts holding the ABS unit in place



Now all you need to do is lift the unit straight up and it should come right out!




Gone :)






I will continue the write up as for what to do with the lines and how to get a non ABS Prelude to work but for now this is what I got.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What's the weight of that big pos?
The unit itsself cant weigh more than 20lbs. Id say maybe 30lbs total with the lines, fluid and everything els but I do want to put the actual unit on a scale to make sure.

still waiting for part 2
As am I. Haha. It should be done soon. Its been so busy at my shop its really hard to find time and ambition to finish but im hoping within the next couple weeks to have it done.
 

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Travis, you will need a 6 foot line for the passenger hardline. That is what I used. I believe I used 2 1 foot lines for the master cylinder to the prop valve and a 1.5 or 2 foot line for the driver side hardline.
 

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Has anyone here finished this project? I just bought a 40/40 proportioning valve from axidworks to install and there seems to be more lines than places to install. It was late last night when I got done so I did not spend a lot of time trying to figure it out. May not be able go get back to it for a couple of days so if someone has knowledge they are willing to share or a site they can point me to, it would appreciated.
 

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There should be a total of 6. I just successfully finished my abs removal last night. You should have two lines coming from the back brakes, two lines from the front and two lines coming from the brake master cylinder. When you install the prop valve make sure that you have the screw heads pointing down and the threads pointing up. I mixed this up because no one ever clearly stated this in their write ups. The brakes will not bleed correctly if the prop valve is upside down. Once I switched it around all 4 brakes bled easily with no issue. I went to a junkyard and grabbed a prop valve out of a random civic dx hatch back that had no abs. As long as it only has 6 ports you should be fine.
 

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I like this removal tutorial but I remember a member here posted retrofitting a 5th gen abs system! I want to do that but he hasnt posted any updates :/
 

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Man... for you racers good idea. In my case I got in an accident cause my ABS did not work lol... FML that pushed me to finally pull the thing out and clean those inner bearings...

I could not live without ABS @@
 

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Has anyone here finished this project? I just bought a 40/40 proportioning valve from axidworks to install and there seems to be more lines than places to install. It was late last night when I got done so I did not spend a lot of time trying to figure it out. May not be able go get back to it for a couple of days so if someone has knowledge they are willing to share or a site they can point me to, it would appreciated.
And sorry for a double post, but the 4040 prop valve is a stamped number on the valve. It isn't a 40/40 as in a number that dictates how much fluid is moved where. I just wanted to clarify, and ask, what is the stock one you removed stamped with?

And let me edit this instead of making a third post here.

For the brake system on Hondas with no abs, you have two lines coming out of the master, and four lines coming out of the prop valve. One line from the master goes to one of the front facing lines on the prop valve, and the other line goes to another one of them.

The rear brake lines that are coming out of the firewall and going into or under the car or whatever go to the rear brakes. These connect to the prop valve where the arrows point backward. And the remaining two valve openings go to the front brakes. Now, you'll need to look at how it's routed in a different car to make sure you got everything routed properly. But one master cylinder opening should control the front right and rear left brake and the other side should control the front left and rear right brake.

Pretty simple really. Just look at where the lines go.
 
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