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· Hepcat
3,216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Major Update:

Okay everybody, due to unforeseen complications in obtaining a suitable head gasket for the ET overbore, and difficulty in finding a proper A18, I have made the decision to go with an A20. This decision is more involved but will sooner realise my ultimate goal: A larger than 2 litre engine with weber carbs. I wasn't planning on converting to webers until after the rebuild due to cost, but due to availability of FI A20s, I'll go for webers as part of the rebuild. This will be a bit more expensive than originally anticipated, but I'm sure the additional time will be more than worth it! :twisted:

So the plan now is to buy an 2.0SI A20 and do the rebuild on this. Overbore by 0.3mm, and take 1mm off the head and 0.5mm off the deck. Use 0.3mm oversize pistons. I am atking more off the block and deck to try and squeez a bit more compression out of it. This is because in converting from the ET to 82.7mm bore, and taking off the head and deck I would have respectively been squeezing more out of the ET than I would be by doing the same to the A20. So I want to go a bit further and get as much as possible from the A20 straight up! So .3mm oversize bore, and 1.5mm collectively off head and deck.

The other point of interest about doing the A20, is that I will be using an A20 head. Which has different input ports to the ET but the same exhaust ports. So I can keep my curernt exhaust system (hurricane extractors to 2.25 inch all the way, no cat). But I can't carry over my carbs, so I will need to go webers. This is fortunate because there are weber manifolds made cheaply by Rowland manifolds and by Redline too I think. Whereas there is nil availability for the ET or A18. So I would have been looking at a custom job down the line if I were to stick with the ET.

I am still looking at doign custom larger valves all around, with brass valve guides. And most likely use aftermarket A18 exhaust springs all around. Or maybe see how many OEM springs I can salvage...

There is also a financial benefit to doing the A20, albeit a trade off. It allows me to transfer engines (ET) between my silver (good) and red (spare) ludes, then sell the red lude with the ET that is burning oil. This will get me some funding straight away to buy my parts. It will probably cover almost all the parts cost except for the webers. Then I'll have a good ET in my silver lude while I rebuild the A20. And after I finish the rebuild, I'll have a good ET left over for a potential stock resotration down the line... or for sale, or to do up another lude to sell. I probably would have got more money for the red lude if I had off continued the ET build and held off to sell it with its current good ET engine - but that is besides the point.

I will edit the following parts and labour list, and keep the superseeded items in parenthesis and blue color for reference purposes. Overall pretty much all of the information in this thread will apply to either ET/A18 or A20, as the blocks are identical apart from bore size. Headwork has been discussed generally for either head.


Green parts have now been sourced.

OEM pistons A20A4 83mm oversize 0.3mm from Honda, (13103-PJ0-307 ) for AU$128.10 each *4 = AU$512.40

[[ OEM pistons A20A4 82.7mm (not oversize) from Honda, (13103-PJ0-308 ) for AU$122.05 each *4 = AU$488.20 ]]
OEM Rockers from A20A1/2/3/4 and A18 from Honda, A: 14621PC6600
B: 14622PC6600 AU$22.41 each *12 = AU$268.92

Total AU$781.32

Honda Australia Victoria national Spare parts division:
T: 03 9579 1811

Honda Australia Victoria Upper Ferntree Gully Spare parts division:
T: 03 9758 9888
ACL Conrod Bearing Set (racing high performance version) from Nasons Dandenong East; ;(4B1946H) AU$70.60 std. or oversize

ACL Thrust Washer Set from Nasons Dandenong East; (1T1952) AU$10.00 std. or oversize

ACL Main Bearing Set from Nasons Dandenong East; (5M1947) AU$71.50 std. or oversize

Total AU$152.10
Nasons Dandenong East
T: 03 9797 1115

ACL Bearing Company
T: +61 (3) 6324 4600
From :

Toga HV
oil pump (OPH15-HV) US$100.84

Total AU$125.15

Clutch kit
Consider using Red Pressure plate.
Yellow performance level pressure plate for Honda Prelude SKU: 47615XY58 US$128.00
Yellow fibre carbon clutch disc with sprung hub for Honda Prelude SKU: 4822Y30 US$135

From :
Water pump
(GATES Part # 41039 cast aluminium) US$20.79
Gates Timing belt and tensioner (TCK160) US$32.79

Subtotal US$53.58
Total AU$65.59

Felpro upper kit (for A20A4) (HS9429PT) US$101.99
Felpro conversion kit (CS9429) US$52.79
Felpro head gasket (spare) (9242PT) US$37.79
*check with Rich after purchase*
[[From Cygnus x-1:
Felpro upper kit (for ET2) (HS9289PT) $?
Felpro conversion kit (CS9289) $?
Felpro head gasket (spare) (9289PT) $?
*check with Rich after purchase* (racing blue teflon - 82.804mm bore size)]]

Subtotal US$192.57
Total AU$235.87
Federal Mogul victoria: 03 9753 4400
RockAuto Estimated shipping US$121.13

Cam Regrind (see machine work)
Flywheel lightened OEM (see machine work)

Running total: AU$1612.25
(plus shipping)
Grand total: :crazy:
Budget: AU$2000 including all of the shipping costs.
Items to re-use:
Crank Shaft etc.
Keep 3rd gen distributer ignition
Cam will be re-ground.
Spark plugs

Leads |
Hoses | > all light blue

light blue crank case breather

Oil Filter

Fuel Filter (front and back)
Fuel Pump ?? Walbro?

Engine Paint light blue and clear coat

Budget: AU$500

Machine work:

*Speak to Hans, get quote.*
degrease and inspect block and head

Bore and hone cylinders to 83mm
[Bore and hone cylinders to 82.7mm]
Machine 0.5mm off the block deck
[Machine 0.25mm off the block deck]
Machine 1.0mm off the cylinder head
[Machine 0.75mm off the cylinder head]
Custom fit bigger valve, 5 angle seats, brass guides, bigger valves etc.
[Custom fit bigger valve, 3 angle seats, brass guides, bigger valves etc.]
Final Clean block and head
Blueprint engine (hand gap piston rings etc.)

fit pistons to rods
fit rocker arms
fit bearings, washers etc.
fit head gasket and head (after I've assembled and painted the block)

Machine flywheel for sprung clutch disk *get photos off of Rich*
lighten flywheel
resurface flywheel
balance flywheel

DIY - clean up (basic port/polish) intake manifold and ports $FREE

Camshaft regrind from grind number: 148i/158US$209
Total AU$259.40

Running total: AU$259.40
Grand total: :crazy:
Budget: AU$2000 including all of the shipping costs.
Overall Budget: No more than $4500:eek: conservatively including extra parts. (Not including additional tools).

Purge fuel tank and lines -- new lines?
Flush Radiator -- new hoses.

Will paint block, head, and extractors in bright, light blue.
Maybe paint some other miscellaneous parts.

Tuck and neaten wires, hoses etc. as much as possible while engine is out.

*Miscellaneous info for posterity*

Rich's guide to headwork (including custom larger valves):

QUOTE Cygnus:
""Are there particular piston rings to go with the A20A3/4 pistons in particular, or will it just be a matter of finding ones to fit."

I don't think so. Obviously you could just get the rings from Honda and leave it at that. If you want to get fancy you can get oversized rings and hand file the gap for a perfect fit. One thing I discovered about that is that I ended up buying 2 sets of rings; one standard and one oversize. I did this because the oversized oil control rings didn't seem to fit right. So I used standard sized oil rings and oversized for the compression and middle rings.

Also, I would use the standard Honda piston size (82.7mm) instead of the 0.3mm oversize (83.0mm). The only reason is if you ever want to rebuild the engine again in the future you'll have that much more material to work with. In the end it's unlikely to make a difference either way, but there is no real reason to use the oversize instead of the standard size."

QUOTE Rjudgey:

"check with rockers you have, on the ET the original ones were very weak and wore out quickly with high revs e.g. constant revving to above 4krpm. So first thing i would do is check these and see what you got. The best ones to use are from the later A18/A20 from the Accord and Prelude they have a hardened pad that wears much less at hi rpm."

"Plenty thanks! lol!
For your ET engine you would need to make sure you buy a Felpro headgasket the racing blue version commonly used on all there head kits. For some reason Felpro made sure the combustion chamber seals on the head were big enough for large bore pistons. 82.7mm works fine and you'd probably just about get away with 83mm with carefull head gasket placement, but any bigger will be an issue. stock ET CR ratio for your engine is 9.4:1 so you would indeed need pistons from A20A4 which are 9.4:1 CR ratio as well, these can only be bought in oversize .3mm form PN:13103-PJ0-308. With your ET head and these pistons you'd be able to bump your CR ratio up to something a lot higher 10.5:1 maybe 11:1 depends how much you take out your chambers when flowing your head and also when you remove the sharp edge protruding into the bores when you do the rebore. Personally i still think it's worth opting for some uprated rods and custom forged pistons cause you get better reliability less weight and higher CR ratio as you can remove the need of having the useless 4th valve pocket dish and have a completely flat piston crown and you can have it bored to a slightly safer 82mm or 82.7mm instead of the stock honda 2.0l size.
And Yes an ET block will happily bore to 83mm i have one that has been. only thing that might prevent this if the block has extensive corrosion on the inside from poor maintenance then it will be fubar!
I reckon a 2.0 high CR block with stock ET head with bigger valves and modded carbs would be good for an easy reliable 170-180bhp with a cam thats not too aggressive say something like a 262 degree with 10mm lift, but would still need to look at a custom profile with offset lobes to match the funny ET head inlet ports. would give you absolute killer torque probably something like 140-150lbft maybe more!! Would make your ride very quick off the line combined with weight savings etc. would make for a damn quick car nearly as quick as mine. Would still be pretty smooth and reliable too, if you start pushing a cam with more duration on stock internals etc. engine reliability and smoothness goes out the window lucky to last 20k miles maybe 30k miles and then will idle and drive like a bird on the time of the month!!!"

Quote cygnus:
"With some rough calculations I figure that just increasing the bore from 80mm to 82.7mm will get you to about 9.6:1 CR. Then milling the head 1mm will bump it up to around 10.3:1. I don't know what the limit is on head milling but I don't think it's more than 1mm.

Decking the block will get you more but there may be other complications like clearance with the head gasket. As I recall the piston tops are almost exactly flush with the deck surface at TDC.

With head milling and/or block decking you will also need an adjustable cam gear to correct the cam timing. They aren't "off the shelf" available but there have been some group buys over the years so they pop up occasionally."

"Well, you wouldn't *have* to have an adjustable cam gear but if you don't the cam timing will be a little off. It works out to about 1.8 degrees per millimeter taken off the head (or block). I wouldn't get too worried about it. You can always put a cam gear on later too if you happen to find one."

Quote mikes87lude:
"You shouldn't need to run premium untill you get right up next to 10.1:1 and over, until you get up to about 11.5:1 or 12.0:1, then it's methanol time."

Quote Rjudgey:
"Hello I'm awake! Right you can safely take off 1.5mm off the head wouldn't recommend though as if you need a skim again you'll have some issues. AS you have a spare head I'd say safely take off .75mm And then .25mm off the deck that will get you the 1mm with a bit of safety and margin available for future work. Or you could just go all out and chop 1mm off the head and .5mm off the block.

Pistons wise you could try and use the 83mm A20A4 pistons but would need to be really well positioned on the gasket to avoid pistons contacting the gasket. Order the Gasket kits first and then have it all measured up, then get the block stripped then start ordering the parts up once you know the state of the engine and what you need exactly.
One thing i know for sure unless your head has had the newer rockers fitted you'll be wanting to change those out for A20 ones with the harder pads that are welded on rather than just hardened rockers.

If you are using honda pistons you should be able to get enough clearance in the pistons for the valves you may need to have someone machine the pockets diameters a bit more to fit the valves but at least there in the right place in teh first place which helps. Only really an issue if you were using high lift and duration cams to be honest so avoid machining the pistons as much as possible. You can play around with them once you have the valves installed and then match the pistons to them after and check the clearance as well."

Quote Rjudgey:

engine mods
If you were to do a basic head job, combustion chamber flowing and polishing, matched manifolds, 2"-2.25" system, cat by pass, no emssion rubbish, 2.0l re-bore, mod the stock carbs a little to get more fuel and improve air flow, i reckon 135-140 tops maybe a little more if you up the fuel pressure a little but the stock carbs are a real restriction even if you did a A20 engine swap and ran a single Weber 38/38 downdraught that would be a lot better than stock carbs, be looking at 150-160bhp, but 150bhp would be really easy to get with two Weber DCOE's or a set of Bike carbs even with a 1.8l bottom end and stock exhaust system a minimal tidy head job and a mild cam, anymore than that you'll be looking at header, exhaust, 2.0l bottom, bigger valves etc.
If you really want to hit the 200bhp mark theirs gonna be a couple of things you need for sure, Twin Webers or Bike carbs, header, 2.25-2.5" system, bigger inlet valves. If you did go with new carbs but kept stock valve sizes you'd be looking at around 170-180bhp without the exhaust system or header you'd be looking at aroujnd 150-160bhp max with a 2.0l bottom.
When i had my original engine which was very tired, with a really basic head job, mild cam, the two webers, matched manifolds, ported exhaust manifold i got nearly 150bhp but U.K cars have no emission equipment and no cat, before the webers had stock carbs was putting down around 125bhp so their was a huge difference between the two BTW U.K ET was 115bhp so a cam and basic headwork only made about 10bhp difference althought the engine powerband was better at the top end revved nicely upto 7K."

· Registered
2,903 Posts
Hi all,


Will it be okay to use my current con rods and gudgeon pins, given that they are in reasonable condition?

Will it be okay to use the current crank shaft given it is in reasonable condition?

With regards to head gaskets, I know I need the felpro blue racing version - but will I need a gasket for a 1.8l ET or for a 2.0l A20 engine? Does anyone have part numbers? It is very hard to find info about these from australian sites, or from the felpro site itself. What specifications should I ask for when enquiring to suppliers about getting this gasket? (no body stocks them).

EDIT. I have found this felpro kit for A20A3 pn: HS9429PT would this be what I need?

Hmm, could be tricky. The 2.0L engines all have a slightly different oil passage on the back of the block than all the ET 1.8L so the head gasket is also slightly different. Interestingly the A18 (1987 only) has the same oil passage as the A20 even though it's still a 1.8L. I don't think you can use the A20 type gasket because of the oil passage. My feeling is the ET gasket should be fine since the pistons never extend above the top surface fo the block, but then you mentioned decking the block. If the block is decked and the pistons do extend above the top surface then the gasket needs to provide clearance for the pistons, meaning that it needs to be compatible with the larger bore. My gut feeling is that it probably will have clearance but it would be good to have confirmation from someone that has either done this before or has one of these gaskets to measure. Rich, help?!

Can I use the main/rod/thrust bearings from an A20 (or es, et2, a18a1 etc.) engine on my ET engine?
Yes. Interestingly it appears that the same bearings are also used in the F22 series motors as well.

likewise, can I use freeze plugs from an A20 (or es1, es2, es3) engine on my ET engine?

Can I use an A20A1 timing belt on the ET, or do I need to find an ET timing belt somehow.


· Registered
1,035 Posts
goodluck with the build bro and im also in the money saving stage for my build to lol

· Registered
5,598 Posts
Gasket kit

You need the ET/ET1 head gasket kit from Felpro they do a complete engine kit that will cover you for everything. But before you buy all the parts get the gasket kit first and make sure they are still the same as the ones they made before that I've used with 2.0l conversion.
PN: is 9289PT

· Registered
5,598 Posts
engine parts

The rods will be fine and the pins might be worth changing though, also the crank if not worn will be fine too.
As for the freeze plugs i've never bothered changing them, once you take em out to be honest i think they'll be more likely to leak or pop out under stress, things that haven't budged in 20 years tend to be very good at staying put! Unless you think it's badly corroded or is damaged in some way leave alone!! Obviously the block will need a serious clean and inspection before anything is done!!
Timing belt the same and so are the bearings ACL are the best ones to get though used by race teams and other high spec engines.

· Hepcat
3,216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Cygnus and Rich, you are gods! I am going to start collecting my parts now while I save up for the actual work. I will aim to get the work done on the engine I have now sometime from October onwards as I will be on holidays and can afford not to have my car for a few weeks. I can easily make this time frame, finance wise.

If I decked the block, it would only be slightly to ensure the pistons do not intrude the head chamber. Just to keep things flat and slightly bump the CR.

Does an oil pump have to be specific, or can I find a generic one to fit?

Rich: that number is for head gasket only, do you have a number for the kit? Is it supposed to be blue?



· Hepcat
3,216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, that is what I thought. Honda wants AU$333.40 just for the oil pump for A series - that is nearly the total for all my pistons - seems a bit rich!

I will try around other places too. I assume this is a part I will certainly want to replace as new, am I right?

I think I will go for the standard size pistons, and an 82.7mm overbore, to allow room for future possible needs. The effect of the .3mm on CR and displacement is obviously negligible. Also, I will save AU$44.00 on the pistons :p

As for bearings - yes I will get ACL, they are actually in Australia! They sell a con rod bearing set -

Could someone please break down what bearings are required and what will be in the con rod bearing set?
I am sketchy about what bearings are what - ie. where the main bearings go - are these for the crank?, are thrust bearings on the con rod? I can only assume...

As for the belt, and perhaps other miscellaneous bearings, I am tempted to go from an eBay store - dunno about quality though. I will update soon, my parts list etc.

Is the timing belt tensioner advisable to be replaced?



· Registered
5,598 Posts
Engine rebuild

Right what you need is the below deviate from this and don't blame me if it goes wrong!!

First of all get the Felpro Kit the part number the same as the one you gave me apart from the numerical digits are the ones i gave you. And yes the gasket will have like a blue wavy stripes across it from the teflon coating they put onto these gaskets. Buy this part first and check the bore clearance on the gasket chamber seals if they are still the same as the ones i had in the past they will enable you to run a 82.7mm piston without issues, if they have changed then you will have to go with 81mm oversize ET ones from Mahle.

Pistons Honda only don't buy any other make they are crap and will not have the correct pockets on the tops for the valves to clear.

Bearings ACL you need the rod kit, mains kit and thrust washers so 3 bits in total the rod kit is for the rods, the mains for the crank and the thrust washers go in the middle of the crank to stop side movement.

Pump get a Toga uprated oil pump or Sealed power one if you can't

Water pump get the version with a cast impeller not pressed steel couple of brands out there other than honda which are just as good.

Timing belt don't get egay get Gates best belts you can buy period.

As for Rings get high quality ones from where you are avoid Sealed power though they love to eat engine oil!! Any normal oversize ring set will do nicely allways get a size above what bore size you'll use and then have them hand gapped to high performance specs i can give you the clearances they need to be at later.

Make sure you get new valve guides put in if you can get bronze ones made up then do it they last much much better and don't wear out when using high performance cams. SI valves so stock valves cheap but I highly recommend larger ones if you have some spare cash if not just make sure you get a high performance orientated seat cut and with the throat work should improve things nicely. If you want a cam we'll have to see what your places can do as with ET they need to have a pretty special design to get the most out the offset ports so stick with the stock one if in good shape.

· Registered
2,903 Posts
As for Rings get high quality ones from where you are avoid Sealed power though they love to eat engine oil!! Any normal oversize ring set will do nicely allways get a size above what bore size you'll use and then have them hand gapped to high performance specs i can give you the clearances they need to be at later.

Wait, the Sealed Power rings eat oil? Or did you mean the Total Seal gapless rings? Cause I have Sealed Power rings and I do seem to be getting some oil consumption. Not that I've narrowed it down to the rings yet but it makes me wonder.


· Hepcat
3,216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hey guys. What are some of the 'good' water pump brands (as mentioned by rich)? Are water pumps universal across the A18, ET, ES etc. ? how about between the 1.8 and 2.0ls ?

All I need to track down now is a water pump, really, and I have found sources for all my parts. Now to gradually start collecting them.

Should I try to get new pulleys as well, or keep the existing ones if they are good?
Do I need to worry about seals, like cam seals etc. or will this all be in a gasket set?

Does anybody use electronic ignition on the carbed engines? I have a 3rd gen distributer at the moment which is pretty good, but would prefer electronic ignition - any recommendations?

What should I do about rockers/springs etc. given that I will have probably have a re-ground colt tri-flow cam, and custom fitted bigger valves? I'm sure the machinist can figure out the springs.

Check out my other 'donor car' thread. I'm getting another whole car to use that engine as a rebuild platform. Same engine etc... So I will start working on the head very soon, and get the con rods and crank cleaned up. and strip down the block etc.



· Registered
5,598 Posts
engine rebuild

Your is electronic ignition already so i would leave it as it is
AS for clutch go for Clutchnet will last for ever and will hold anything you can throw at it!!
Water pump tough one just any make will do really i just prefer the cast impeller type but it's a bit hit and miss what you might get with oem or patent. And water pump you need ET/A18 the A20 one has a 3 bolt pulley so you would have to do some redrilling on your pulley to fit that one on.

And yes all seals including cam and crank come with the Felpro gasket kit don't forget to get teh conversion kit this will give you all the seals and gaskets for the block.

Also don't use Colt cams tri flow with A18

rockers you can re condition or buy new

· Hepcat
3,216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thank you Rich,

What cam regrind and company would you suggest? If we can decide now, that is good because the valves /springs etc. will all be made to fit the head, so can we work backwards from what cam to then get the machinist to select suitable valves/springs/lift etc ? I want as much 'wake up' as possible, but I don't want it to be too rough (doesn't matter if a bit rough), also I don't want it to wear out anything too fast, or go through insane amounts of fuel etc. Just a good mild wake up, for all the described rebuild, plus my extractors to 2.25 inch mandrel bent exhaust. And one day I want to put webers on, but not til a fair time after the rebuild is done.

I meant electronically controlled ignition, not controlled by a distributer (I'd called a dizzy mechanically controlled) ie. computer controlled timing? Maybe get 2 or 4 coils going or something? I would be happy to leave it with the 3rd gen dizzy as it seems pretty good.

With rockers, is it something I need oem parts for, and can I get something and have it made to fit kind of?

I've sen at least 3 or 4 different patent water pumps but none of them say whether cast impeller or not. They are pretty cheap so I can get a one and then another if need be. Doesn't really worry me.

Thanks for your help.

· Registered
2,903 Posts
Hey guys. What are some of the 'good' water pump brands (as mentioned by rich)? Are water pumps universal across the A18, ET, ES etc. ? how about between the 1.8 and 2.0ls ?
My first water pump was a "Topline" and it started leaking within a year. The next one was some other reman. part from the local parts store and it's been fine so far.

Should I try to get new pulleys as well, or keep the existing ones if they are good?
Reuse as long as they aren't bent, rusty, etc..

Does anybody use electronic ignition on the carbed engines? I have a 3rd gen distributer at the moment which is pretty good, but would prefer electronic ignition - any recommendations?
Your is electronic ignition already so i would leave it as it is

Depends on what you mean by electronic. The stock system is electronic in that it uses an electronic ignitor to fire the coil. But the timing advance is still mechanically controlled (vacuum and centrifugal). If you mean with an electronically controlled distributor; I think a few people might have done it with an OBD1 conversion. But that's only for fuel injection.

Otherwise you can go off the deep end like I did and retrofit a Ford distributorless ignition. The distributor goes away and is replaced with a Ford ignition module and coil pack. A "Megajolt Lite Jr." controller monitors crank position and manifold vacuum to determine the appropriate advance and sends it to the Ford ignition module which fires the coil. There's apretty good overview of the system here:

To my knowledge Smeado is the only other person (besides myself) to run one of these setups so far. (And actually mine is a little different because I'm using a Megasquirt ECU to control fuel and ignition instead of the Megajolt for just ignition. But it still uses the Ford parts.) There is an Accord guy here (Knifemind) that is working on one but I don't know if it's running yet. If you search around here for EDIS you should find some of my posts about it. I can help you if you're interested in something like this.

AS for clutch go for Clutchnet will last for ever and will hold anything you can throw at it!!
Clutchnet = awesome.

Also don't use Colt cams tri flow with A18
This is a rather interesting question. The idea with the triflow is that for each cylinder one of the intake valves is opened sooner and stays open longer than the other. This in intended to produce more swirl in the cylinder for better mixture distribution and combustion efficiency. The unknown is how this reacts with the unequal length intake ports on the 1.8L heads (except for the ET1). I would be really curious to hear what Geoff from Colt would say about this. From what I hear he is very knowledgable and a nice guy as well.

Unfortunately I've been reading bad things about Delta from elsewhere on Preludepower. Seems a few have had issues with their more recent parts.

Webcams seems to be good though. That's actually who does the "A" series grinds for Bisimoto.


· Hepcat
3,216 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alright cool, thankyou very much! I will look into electronically controlled ignition at a later date.

Here is what Rowland said regards to intake manifolds:

"Hello Hayden , our manifold fits 5 different heads ,all ports are the same
only mouinting holes different , the manifold was made for the 1.8i , I
need your gasket no and then drill holes to our jigs, they are for webers
and we also make for toyota throttles bodies ... as you can see from pic
lots of material to machine ..
The manifold costs 1100rands and postage of 450 rands aussie dollars total
of 238aussie dollars includes postage have given you our 1800 gasget n"

So cheap I might as well grab one while they are hot. I might just send him my intake gasket from the felpro set when i get it and have him send it back with the manifold.

· Registered
2,903 Posts
This is the photo they sent me:

All they need to do is put the holes in the right place.

What do you guys think?

They're confused. When they say 1.8L they mean the B18 (Integra) engines, which are totally different than what you have. Yours looks like this:

You can send them this picture (or a link) if you like. To make a manifold they would still need a gasket but this will give them an idea at least.

I'm thinking they might be interested in this because there are NO other manifolds available for these heads anywhere.

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