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1989 Accord LXi Coupe; 1989 Prelude 2.0s; 1964 Dodge Dart GT: 1993 Kawasaki ZX-11; 1982 Honda CB900
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Here is what I did with my Lude when I bought her, 191,000 miles. I drained the transmission. Poured in 1 fresh quart, topped it off with what I drained. Drove 1000 miles, rinse, repeat except add another fresh quart, rinse, repeat until you have gone thru the required # of quarts. Its been 12000 miles now, and the AT is still working fine, and shifts a whole lot better. Still the usual quirks, but i got some fresher fluid in there instead of the 191,000 mile, 30 year old gunk
 

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Here is what I did with my Lude when I bought her, 191,000 miles. I drained the transmission. Poured in 1 fresh quart, topped it off with what I drained. Drove 1000 miles, rinse, repeat except add another fresh quart, rinse, repeat until you have gone thru the required # of quarts. Its been 12000 miles now, and the AT is still working fine, and shifts a whole lot better. Still the usual quirks, but i got some fresher fluid in there instead of the 191,000 mile, 30 year old gunk
So you're running your transmission 2 quarts low? Yeah, don't do that.
 

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1989 Accord LXi Coupe; 1989 Prelude 2.0s; 1964 Dodge Dart GT: 1993 Kawasaki ZX-11; 1982 Honda CB900
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So you're running your transmission 2 quarts low? Yeah, don't do that.
No, Im not. either I didnt explain myself clearly enough or you have a reading comprehension problem. After each drain I would add a another fresh quart 1st, and then top off the transmission with what I previously drained. This way I could effectively clean the insides with newer fluid yet reduce the risk of a clot clogging up a valve.
 

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No, Im not. either I didnt explain myself clearly enough or you have a reading comprehension problem. After each drain I would add a another fresh quart 1st, and then top off the transmission with what I previously drained. This way I could effectively clean the insides with newer fluid yet reduce the risk of a clot clogging up a valve.
Well there's the problem. I just didn't believe that you were suggesting that. So your procedure is to drain the fluid, add one quart of fresh fluid, and then add the old fluid back in to refill? Why on earth would you do that, instead of just replacing all 2.5-3 quarts? Your suggestion makes no sense, and would end up giving you less total clean fluid than just draining and refilling normally.
 

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1989 Accord LXi Coupe; 1989 Prelude 2.0s; 1964 Dodge Dart GT: 1993 Kawasaki ZX-11; 1982 Honda CB900
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293 Posts
Well there's the problem. I just didn't believe that you were suggesting that. So your procedure is to drain the fluid, add one quart of fresh fluid, and then add the old fluid back in to refill? Why on earth would you do that, instead of just replacing all 2.5-3 quarts? Your suggestion makes no sense, and would end up giving you less total clean fluid than just draining and refilling normally.
With older transmissions that have a LOT of miles and built up CRAP in them, sometimes a complete flush with all new fluid can dislodge large amounts of crude and debris that can clog up valves and passageways causing AT problems & failures. Ever dump to much Sea Foam into the gas tank, only to have your Carbs/Injectors plug up? SAME FUCKING THING!

A lil time and $$ for a few extra quarts is nothing to reduce the risk of this happening. Each drain has 1 more quart of clean fluid, slowly becoming cleaner and cleaner with each drain. Of course it wont ever be perfect, due to older fluid still being there, but in reduced amounts with every drain, but its 1000 times better then what was in there to begin with, 207,000 mile, 30 year old fluid!! I can only assume its OEM 30 year old fluid, so thats why I did it this way

This process was suggested to me by an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SPECIALIST, who says by adding small amounts of new fluid over a period of time, you can effectively clean the interior of the AT valves, and minimize potential clogs and/or failures. LATER, you can do a complete flush w/o risking possible plugs up.

Im just passing this along as an fyi...


If you car had its AT fluid regularly changed, then of course, dont listen to me, but if you arent sure, and dont want to risk a failure..... its a good idea
 

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You cannot simply drain and re-fill your automatic tranny the way you do your engine oil. The problem is that much of the ATF remains in the torque convertor when you drain the case. The only options are to flush (ungood) , pull the transmission and manually drain the torque convertor or do it as Blainethemono suggests.
 

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You cannot simply drain and re-fill your automatic tranny the way you do your engine oil. The problem is that much of the ATF remains in the torque convertor when you drain the case. The only options are to flush (ungood) , pull the transmission and manually drain the torque convertor or do it as Blainethemono suggests.
Well, no, not really. Honda's recommendation for normal service (you remember them, the company that designed the transmission, right?) is to drain and refill the transmission with Honda ATF every 15,000 miles. Not a power flush, don't pull the transmission and drain the torque converter. Just drain and refill, then run it through all of the gears. If it is still dirty, maybe drain and refill again.
 

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Well, no, not really. Honda's recommendation for normal service (you remember them, the company that designed the transmission, right?) is to drain and refill the transmission with Honda ATF every 15,000 miles. Not a power flush, don't pull the transmission and drain the torque converter. Just drain and refill, then run it through all of the gears. If it is still dirty, maybe drain and refill again.
Are you saying that Blainethemono's method is inferior to Honda's recommendation ? Seems to me that it's just a faster version of Honda's. Why would it be wrong to pull the transmission and drain the torque convertor ? It may be stupid but it's not wrong. :) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just did the change of oil and everything good. No problem found yet since 500 mile ago. just flush and refill with new one.
 
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