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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have done quite a bit of research on this motor with in the last few years from dyno tuned NA setups to dyno tuned turbo setups. As well as comparing all Honda EPC part #'s overseas.















Start with the basics H23A Vtec Blue Top 98-01:
  • Found in the Japanese 1998-2002 Accord Wagon SiR (CH9). It produces 200 PS (147 kW; 197 hp) & 163 ft·lbf (221 N·m) and comes with a "blue top".
  • Found in the Japanese 1998-2002 Accord Wagon AWD (CL2). It produces 200 PS (147 kW; 197 hp) & 163 ft·lbf (221 N·m) and comes with a "blue top".
Both versions that were produced were only found in the Accord Wagons SiR. Both were Automatics one had similar gear box triptronic as the Auto 97-01 Preludes and other had a AWD version that had the same setup as the triptronic. Both versions had the same engine, no difference.

Inside:
- 87mm bore 95mm stroke 55mm mains FRM sleeves
- 10.6-1 compression
- 1998 and 1999 versions have a P13 JDM H22 OBD2 Head and will have a PGMFI logo on the intake manifold plenum
- 2000 and 2001 versions have a PDE Head with JDM OBD2 Internals and will not have PGMFI logo on the intake manifold it will be smooth.
- Finding year of motor will be a 2 digit year under header shield between cyl 2-3 i believe. PDE or P13 will be stamped above cyl 2 on the Front
- Piston size will be 4 letters stamped A or B on back of block under intake manifold near the timing belt plastic
- PDE Heads have a slightly different valve angle for performance such as the PDE Euro R and Type S Heads which was slightly better for performance.
- No oil squirters
- No crank angle sensor
- Rods are not a typical H23A1 length they appear to be 20k shorter so the similar H22A1/4 style piston will sit in the hole rather than 20K out of the hole. Rods also use a thread in bolt not a press in which is much stronger
- Alternator only crank pulley same as the Euro R/F20B PS was electronic not ran off the pulley.
- 65mm Throttle Body


Replacement Parts:
98-01 H22A4 Prelude:
Sleeves
Oil Pump
Water Pump
Head Gasket
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Timing Belt
Balance Shaft Belt
Main Bearings/Thrust
Rod Bearings: F22/H23A1
F23A Oil Pan with Honda Bond kind of strange since Honda Bond was usually only used on cast pans.
F23A Oil pan is deeper/lower then a typical H22

The main question does and will the H23A Vtec Blue Top have more power then a JDM H22 or Euro R/Type S.

Answer is yes with the 95mm stroke, stroke will always = more power potential. On average should see a 5-10 hp increase with a torque increase of atleast 10 ft lbs of torque.

----------- A side note -----------------------
- These engines all came Auto's, 99% of us will use these on a manual. All H/F Automatic ECU's will have different milder Fuel Maps and Redline then a Manual Version. There are many Horsepower #'s from 197-215 hp ratings on this H23A Vtec Blue Top Motor. So combo'ing thise motor with a Manual and Manual ECU that is either tuned for Manual etc. will surpass the JDM H22/Euro R/Type S hp #'s from factory. All different power rating #'s out there for this number all agree that the torque is higher ft lb then the other H's
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Rebuilding with sleeves either Turbo or NA. I choose to not have custom rods made and used H23A1 aftermarket off shelf rod and a off shelf forged H22A piston. However with this combo your piston will stick out of hole 20K which isn't bad thing just need to remember for proper valve to piston clearance. I then went with a 60K thick Cometic MLS headgasket to give me some what still OEM valve to piston clearance of 30K plus.

A cheap upgrade in power, from 10.6-1 compression to 11.5-1 compression would be to throw in some Euro R/Type S pistons. You may not have to worry about piston out of hole if using the factory H23A BT rods. H23A BT rod length should be in the area of 141mm not 141.5mm (H23A1/F22)

Last option if picky about H22 piston sticking out of hole is getting a custom Rod made that is atleast 20K shorter.




Builds: Both are identical builds, 2000 PDE H23A Vtec's Same Dyno Same Tuner, Same Bolt ons other then Black one had 580cc injectors mine had Flow Stack. Both Stock Internals.

2000 JDM H23A PDE Vtec Blue Top
ESP 4-2-1 H22A Header 2.5" collector
3" Thermal Exhaust
3" Short Ram Air Intake with BPI stake and K&N filter
Euro R manifold modified to work from www.RoskoRacing.com
68mm Performance Products Throttle Body
OBD1 JDM H22A inectors 345cc and Distributor
P28 Crome Tuned
Manual Tensioner Conversion
212 whp and 174 ft lbs torque tuned








Emissions and Tuning:

OBD2 vehicles need to add crank angle sensor or easier route is to re wire the wires from the crank angle to the distributor. Rywire.com may have a solution.

H23 BT is Internal Coil either convert or use stock H22 distributor.

Intake Manifold is best and easiest to swap rather then make it work for a normal H22 intake manifold. However I would swap the Blue Top H23 Throttle Body for the H22 since BT is 65mm.

The best way is convert to P28 OBD1 and Crome and Neptune and dyno tune the motor by a Neptune/Crome tuner or AEM.

There isn't much support for tuning with OBD2 vehicle/ecu's. If you have emissions this will be next to impossible to convert to OBD1 and pass emissions.

Running a normal P13 stock H22 ECU will not work and will have issues as well as not getting the most out of the motor.
 

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I am glad I went with this motor. My buddy Davis (dk4ever on here) told me to start searching for an H22 for my swap and came across an H23A for $40 more than the H22. Worth it to me.
 

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Intake Manifold is best and easiest to swap rather then make it work for a normal H22 intake manifold.
I can't figure out what that means... anyone? Isn't the PDE mani that comes with this motor, the same as the Euro-R mani?
 

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I can't figure out what that means... anyone? Isn't the PDE mani that comes with this motor, the same as the Euro-R mani?

Is H23A closed-deck and H23A1 open-deck, or is this a myth?

it means to swap the top parts from your old h22 mani with the blue tops and reuse the blue tops throttle body. the euro-R mani is a single stage manifold and doesn't iab's the blue top's mani is a 2 stage with iab's
 

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just wanted to add, Rywire does have a solution for crank angle sensor. I went from an obd2 F22a1 to an obd1 f20a dohc. So I used their harness, works great! Just don't forget to use the included jumper wire to jump the plug that the external coil used to plug into.

My car sat for a week because I forgot to do that...
 

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Awesome stuff, however, i have a bluetop h23vtec, and i have remianed obd2 compliant as well as beefed it quite a bit. Very enjoyable motor. Although the AEM sereis2 had given me some issues with windows 7.
 

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Dear friends, I have the blue cover H23a cams and I have an h22a5 engine. Is there any improvement? Anyone check it out? Thank you
 
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