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Premium Member
3,207 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I did not complete this write up yet because I have alot of pictures to add please do not attempt this until it is finished. I will add to it later on, Unfortunately I have to do laundry and other things. I will add more to it tonight.

This write up is for those with the 92-93 console and wish to convert it to the 94-96 console without changing the ebrake cables.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage to your vehicle or failure of your e-brake during or after this write up. Do this at your own risk. I have to give most of the credit to Dark_rican (lou) for the hazard switch rewire and Mike Dubois whom I contacted on ebay originally for the ebrake wire extention via the turnbuckle.

I have done this in 4 cars so far and mine has been done over 3 months ago. I use my e-brake regularly and have had no problems. Rich045 is one of the users who I have done this for and can vouch for me.

Materials needed (all obtainable at home depot in building materials isle):

1" wide and 1/4" thick steel bar
(4) 1" long Thickest 3/8 drive self tapping screws for sheetmetal (must have self screwing tip on end)
(4) 1 1/2" long thickest 3/8 drive self tapping screws for sheetmetal
Washers (must have self screwing tip on end)
Turnbuckle two for workout equipment (self packaged and seperate from the turnbuckles in the boxes) Has a full loop on each end.
Red permanent threadlocker (paint materials isle)
(3) 10mm or 8mm Machined bolts 1" or 1 1/2" thick with matching nuts and washers
Sharpie marker for marking
All bots, washers, and nuts must be machined and for sheetmetal. If they are for wood or plastic they will snap.

Obviously you will also need the 94-96 Ebrake and console. No 94-96 ebrake cables are required.

Tools Needed:

Full Ratchet set
Flat Head screw driver
Dremel with cutting bit (optional)
A power drill
Latex gloves (so threadlocker does not get on your hands)
Wrench or plyers
Vice (recommended)


1 1/2hrs give or take depending on skill

1) First park your car on level ground with your car in Park, or in 1st and put bricks behind the tires so your car does not move when removing the ebrake.

2) Remove your center console and disconnect the wire to your hazard switch. (rewire is below)

I've had both of these in my car before doing this conversion so here are the screw locations for those with trouble:

If you have a 93 Console, the screws are located here:

same screws on each side.

For those who are confused as to which console you have: this is the 93 Console w/ rare attachment:

If you have a 92 console, the screws are located here:

for those who are confused, this is a 92 console:

For a 92 you will have to remove the rear seats to take out the console,
To remove the seat, underneath the part that you sit on, there are two tabs, pull on them and you can remove the seat:

(back when I had leather interior)

3)Once the ebrake is exposed, Unbolt the two bolts that are holding the ebrake handle down. and turn the bolt holding the ebrake to the cables counter clockwise to detatch the ebrake cables from the ebrake:

4) Once the ebrake is out of place, you now need to take that steel bar and cut it to two pieces. (You will use these like platforms for the ebrake to rest on since the ebrake does not sit flush with the tunnel. I did not write down the exact measurements, but here is a picture for reference:

this is for the lower bolt of the ebrake. DO NOT BOLT ANYTHING YET.
You will need first need to put the 94-96 ebrake in it's location, and then put the console over it to make sure you put the ebrake in the right location. through the cupholder hole, mark it with the sharpie.

5)Once marked, cut the metal bar to these sizes: pics for reference:

6)After you have cut the pieces, you will need to bend the longer bar slightly (the one closer to the front of the car) using a vice and a hammer. You can see the slight bend in the picture.

If you do not bend it, the ebrake will sit too high. You will also need to hammer down that part of the tunnel slightly to accommodate for the bent bar.

You will need to bend the shorter bar (bar closer to the rear of the car) except you will not need to bend the tunnel downward.

5) Using the sharpie marker, mark the three holes in the rear metal bar to secure the ebrake handle to the car as pictured. Always double check the alignment of where you choose to mount the ebrake handle by placing the console over the ebrake and putting it into place.

When ready, use the 1in self tapping screw on the middle hole of the rear bar to secure the bar to the car. Using the permanent threadlocker of course. With the bolt in the middle, you can freely move the bar so that you can adjust it tightly. Once you are sure where the rear of the ebrake handle is supposed to go, bolt it down with the 1 1/2in self tapping screw with threadlocker. Then use another 1in self tapping screw on the end of the bar.

5a) You will need to do the same with the frontal part of the ebrake handle. Before you do this lightly connect the ebrake cables this way:

First, this is the type of turnbuckle you will need:

If you are shopping in Home Depot, there will be a section of turnbuckles in boxes. Stay away from those (they are not made to handle weight and stress). The one you need is self packaged in the same isle. Usually hanging on a peg hook.

Using the 10mm bolts, washers, and nuts, LIGHTLY connect the ebrake cable via this way:
Do not tighten it.

Finished attachment should look like this:

6) For the frontal bar, I used 3 bolts to hold the ebrake in place to the car and 1 bolt for the actual ebrake. First attach the ebrake to the bar with a 1 1/2" non self tapping bolt, 2 washers and a matching nut. Then use two 1 1/2 in self tapping screws with threadlocker. Finally on the farthest hole closest to the passenger side that you should have made to match the hole already in the car, use threadlocker with a matching 10mm 1-1/2in bolt. Make sure you use threadlocker on all the bolts you use.

Of course while doing this, you should have been making sure the ebrake lines up with the console so you are not bolting the ebrake in the wrong place. Remember this takes a lot of patience. Use the sharpie marker to mark the correct places for holes.

After the ebrake is bolted down and tight, give it a few minutes or however long you are supposed to wait for the threadlocker to dry.

7) Tighten the ebrake cable so that after 6 clicks your car is stopped. and less if you would like.

8) Hazard Switch rewire (credit to Lou aka dark_rican):

original 92-93 hazard switch harness:

1) Pop open the "pin door" use a paper clip and push it into the holes to pop out each cable. This will prevent you from cutting, soldering and taping (MUCH EASIER).

It should be rewired to (94-96):

Finished product:
Pics from my car in April-May in my updates thread:

94-96 Console with leather lid:

***edit** will post more later.

888 Posts
so how did you get the e-brake cables to reach that far?

Can you get some better pictures of the cables running to the e-brake? I need to figure this out asap this console has been sitting in my room for TOO LONG

Premium Member
3,207 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
what about the cables?

so how did you get the e-brake cables to reach that far?

Can you get some better pictures of the cables running to the e-brake? I need to figure this out asap this console has been sitting in my room for TOO LONG
lol i'll finish the write up soon don't worry.

819 Posts
I like my 92' compartment. It fits a bottle of alcohol quite well.:)

846 Posts
First i removed the seats just so its easier. To do that its two 14mm bolts towards the front of the seat and two 12mm bolts on the back. Make sure to remove the Plug connected to the buttom of the seat.

These are some of the Parts i used. Couldnt figure out what a Turn buckle was but i figured it out. I ended up using two differnent ones combined together

I bent the open ended side so it can move as the ebrake moves up and down while not being able to slip off either. Here is a picture that i bought from Lowes for like $1.50 that i bent. Its the longer two sided one on the left of the armrest

The "A" shaped piece of metal shown on the first picture was what i got from Pep Boys when i asked for a Turnbuckle. It has a hole at the top of the "A" and it came w/ a nut so i just stuck the long ebrake bolt through and threaded the nut on. Id put some thread lock on that so it wont move. Make sure you put on the other long Turnbuckle before going threw w/ completing the chain.

Next, mounting the ebrake itself. Dont forget to slip the little ebrake connector switch on. If not your light will probably stay on. Its a good idea to mark up where you want to push the self tapping screws in. i marked it w/ a sharpie and then moved the ebrake out of the way. It be so easier if you predrilled holes even though i used selftapping screws. I just hammered and forced the tap in and it worked. Dont forget to put washers where necessary.

Front bolt which i used Hexnuts

Rear bolt

Make sure the ebrake works and then test fit the console over it. Here is a picture of mine when all the way up with the console not screwed in yet

Make sure when the ebrake is down its not crooked(sp?). Here is mine when the ebrake is down.

I paid
$25 for the console
$20 for ebrake in good condition except its release button.
~$5-$10 for mounting hardware
And $20 for two black leather door inserts :D

Yep its fully functional ebrake. its a bit wobbly but i put some thread locker in the bolts so it should be drying now. Now i just gotta some how re-wire the mirror switch for the new center console and get a new Hazards b/c im guessing the switch was broken but the stock connectors for the 92-93 hazards and mirror switch are the same. PM me for an questions.

846 Posts
Is there a difference in the shifter panel/cover because they both arent lining up and just to tell you guys the back mounts for the center console dont line up perfectly...least mine dint but i managed to get it to work and stay firm. The only part where its not aligned is right up agaisnt the center console and the shifter cover. Maybe its b/c the console came outta a manual prelude?

Oh and i finally finished the mirror wiring. Was a lil harder then i thought but still pretty easy. No more driver side mirror switch :p
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