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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Thanks for the tips. I haven't pulled out the 3g Prelude speed sensor yet and compared it with the sensor from the T2T4 transmission. If they don't match up Ill get a speed sensor from a 4g Prelude. I take it they don't since you recommended it, but I'll see soon.
 

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All these 90's speed sensors will fit into different trans (from what I've seen) the main difference being the location of the hold-down tab. So you can use the 3rd gen speed sensor, but you may need to come up with a solution/modification to hold it.

Here is an example of a hybrid 88-89 / 90-91 Prelude speed sensor in a H22 trans:


To hold it in I just had that piece of aluminum coming off the bolt and it slightly hung over the lip on the speed sensor to stop it from pulling out. They really don't need much to hold them in.

Like you said you can just use the current VSS, but you don't plug those lines, you loop them. This gives minimal assist at low speeds. It's nowhere near as bad as a P/S delete but it is heavy enough at parking speeds you won't be able to run the steering wheel around with an open palm, if you know what I mean.

On a different note; You keeping that B21a? I'm building my B20a right now for FI but it's going to take longer than I thought. I'm considering getting another stock engine so I can have a running car in the meantime. Cash or maybe trade as I've got various H22/swap parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
All these 90's speed sensors will fit into different trans (from what I've seen) the main difference being the location of the hold-down tab. So you can use the 3rd gen speed sensor, but you may need to come up with a solution/modification to hold it.

Here is an example of a hybrid 88-89 / 90-91 Prelude speed sensor in a H22 trans:


To hold it in I just had that piece of aluminum coming off the bolt and it slightly hung over the lip on the speed sensor to stop it from pulling out. They really don't need much to hold them in.

Like you said you can just use the current VSS, but you don't plug those lines, you loop them. This gives minimal assist at low speeds. It's nowhere near as bad as a P/S delete but it is heavy enough at parking speeds you won't be able to run the steering wheel around with an open palm, if you know what I mean.

On a different note; You keeping that B21a? I'm building my B20a right now for FI but it's going to take longer than I thought. I'm considering getting another stock engine so I can have a running car in the meantime. Cash or maybe trade as I've got various H22/swap parts?
Sent you a PM about this
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Some updates:

Traded the original engine for some parts (thanks mustardcat). Heres one of them:

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I'll put the shifter cables in one of these days. I have to make the opening where the auto cable went larger, and drill new holes in order to bolt on the shift cable grommet/seal.

He also welded on some 6AN fittings (I think) to my original power steering lines so I could reroute the line. Very helpful for this engine swap.

I will be making my own wire harness for this car by modifying the original engine harness. I have some plugs from the H22 harness I will be using, and some additional plugs from Corsa-Technic to use on the strut towers. This will probably take me a few weeks/months to figure out since this is my first time doing something like this. Fortunately I have wire diagrams for both engines, and an engine outside of the car to get the wire lengths right.

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H22 harness on top, B21A harness on bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I think a majority of the splash guards will be gone because of the custom traction bar.

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My grandpa asked if I wanted the seat moved back, and of course I did. I took the plastics off and came up with an idea as pictured. He helped out with the welding since I dont have that kind of experience. On the rail that doesnt have levers to recline the seat, the stop was removed and material was taken off. Now the rail can slide and lock all the way back. (I should have just taken a picture.)

Im currently unravelling the original harness. I have all the plugs I need (maybe). I have a skunk2 intake manifold and throttle body on the way thats allegedly real, so I will have to extend the IACV plug behind the manifold. Thats the only difference I can see.

Lastly, the distributor that came with my engine has an internal coil. Its a TD60U distributor from what Ive read. Is it harder to get parts for these distributors? Ill have to do some searching on how to go from external coil wiring to internal if its not.
 

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View attachment 31266

Ill post more info later
Beautiful! Can't wait to see it running. I got an h23a blue top and a h22a4 sh model and a 5 spd h series trans that I been slowly rebuilding to get running. I wonder if I can use Seans kit to install the h23a If not I wonder if I would be able to use the sh model h22a4 and delete the atts and make a custom halfshaft bracket to make the axles be able to connect. Still need to purchase mounts and get the wiring harness figured out but the engine was. B21a1 with a manual d2a4 that was running till my trans went out and my engine was leaking so I bought a gasket set and a new trans but before I found a trans I found the h22a4 & h23a with an auto and manual trans for $500! The trans are allegedly good but the h23a needs a new crankshaft or rod bearings bc the previous owner did say it had a freshly built head but a slight rod knock. The problem with the h22 is simply the atts unit. I also have an auto cd5 96 ex that I want to put the other one into but from what ppl tell me I'd need a different ecu than the auto 99 lude ecu and ATU. So I guess I'll find out once I get it all situated. Just fyi your posts are inspiring and keep me from junking both my cars (the other is a burgundy 91 si with 17' rims) and buying a little bucket.
 

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Beautiful! Can't wait to see it running. I got an h23a blue top and a h22a4 sh model and a 5 spd h series trans that I been slowly rebuilding to get running. I wonder if I can use Seans kit to install the h23a If not I wonder if I would be able to use the sh model h22a4 and delete the atts and make a custom halfshaft bracket to make the axles be able to connect. ...
The only way the ATTS H22 motors will work is the same as doing a base H22 swap in an ATTS SH chassis. You need to get a customer rear mid shaft plate made to work with the base H22 mid shaft or 90-98 Accord midshaft then use the base M2A4, M2Y4, M2F4, M2F5, M2S4 or the T2W4 variants.
Any H22/H23 or F-Seriesl will work but you have to use the H-Series side posts and 4th gen prelude rear t-brackets and or drill and tap the F-Series transmission case to use my tranny mount.

Then you can use my mounts to swap the SH H22 into the 3rd gens, but nothing from the ATTS units will work.
You can get the mounts, the traction bar and skid bar and wire harness off my site, just know all parts are made to order so they will take time, especially the engine harness.
 

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Late to responding on the splash guard question. I’m curious how it’s a nuisance to you, Sean. I can see how it wouldn’t provide as much accessibility for non-OEM engines. I’ve always found it important to keep it on the car, as it helps promote air flow, keeps the engine clean, and helps protect the components on underside to a degree.
The progress looks great, the H22 looks right at home in that bay. Sean, when you designed these mounts, did you put into consideration the amount of engine tilt you wanted, order to maximize ground clearance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I just finished installing the traction bar a few minutes ago. The splash guards next to the wheels wont fit without trimming clearance for the new radius rods.

And since I was under the car looking at how the engine fits, its basically the best it will ever be. MustardCat has a thread on moving his engine back towards the firewall, but the modification he did wouldnt be possible on a RHD vehicle.
 

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Late to responding on the splash guard question. I’m curious how it’s a nuisance to you, Sean. I can see how it wouldn’t provide as much accessibility for non-OEM engines. I’ve always found it important to keep it on the car, as it helps promote air flow, keeps the engine clean, and helps protect the components on underside to a degree.
The progress looks great, the H22 looks right at home in that bay. Sean, when you designed these mounts, did you put into consideration the amount of engine tilt you wanted, order to maximize ground clearance?
If you want to try to put the splash guards back on, that is up to you.
And the whole engine tilt question has been murdered to death. The motor is in its best location for a bolt in setup.
But if you want better ground clearance then the customer has to figure out how much work they want to put into modifying the kit and their hood and engine bay for that.

I have to make the kit as easily installable as possible so its in its final resting place for the masses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
So I skipped over a month of work on this car when I posted a picture of the H22 installed.

The original JDM B21A automatic wiring harness was modified to work on the H22. I first had to figure out what I had, didn't have, and what wasn't needed.

I added an RPM signal, and 12v power wire for the internal coil distributor, VTEC oil pressure switch, VTEC solenoid plug, cooling fan switch, reverse light switch, ICM, and a MAP sensor. I will not be adding EGR, air intake bypass, or a knock sensor because of the intake and ECU I'm using. I don't think a knock sensor will be useful with what I've done to the engine either.

Out of the sensors I did have, most of them were in the right place on the H22 except for the TPS, VSS, TW, coolant temp sender, and distributor plugs which all needed to be extended. Extending the distributor wires was the hardest part.

Since I'm working with an OBD1 car the distributor wiring matched up with the wire colors on the H22's distributor. I verified this by comparing the wiring diagrams for the B21, and H22. From there I was going to extend the TDC and Crank position wires to where the CYL sensor was. The problem with that is I would have about 12 inches of unshielded wire. I had to take out the original wires, and replace it with a longer shielded cable. A shielded cable protects wires from getting electrical interference. After searching for awhile I found that McMaster Carr had exactly what I was looking for. I already had the harness unwrapped, so replacing the cable was quick.

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I didn't take that many pics while doing the wiring, so most of my description isn't clear unfortunately. Most of the work wouldn't have been possible without the sockets/pins/connectors supplied by Corsa Technic. Sumitomo is the company that made wire harness connectors for Honda.

OBD1 connectorss: Sumitomo HW Sealed Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic
OBD0 connectors: Sumitomo HM Sealed Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic

I took pictures of crimping socket connectors, and installing them into a plug:

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Make sure the stripped section isn't too long.

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The seal needs to be on the coated part of the wire before crimping a pin or socket on the wire.

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Crimp the seal onto the wire, but not too tightly or else the seal will tear.

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The wires will slide and lock into the plug if crimped properly. This plug is the additional wiring I added to the harness. There are seals to plug off unused sockets on the plug.

When removing the plugs for the automatic, I ended up taking out the ground for one of the shielded wires, so I made sure everything was grounded properly before wrapping everything again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Before installing the engine I installed the shifter cables. These are out of the 4th gen prelude. I planned on using the existing grommet that bolted onto the floor, but the cable routing wasn't that great because of the 4WS shaft. I cut the old grommet off and ended up making a plate that bolted onto the firewall. I also made a plate that plugs the hole left by the automatic shifter cable.

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
It looks like the 5th gen clutch pedal assembly will work with modification. I have to cut some clearance and maybe drill a hole on the bracket. The pedal will have to be straightened out, and its length reduced back to 10". Wont be working on this until next week probably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I think ill leave it like this. Going to order a clutch line and resivoir. The master cylinder could be depressed about a 1/4"-3/8" more, but I dont know if thats a problem yet.

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The clutch is now working properly. I had to do more bending on the pedal to get the full travel for a 5th gen Prelude master cylinder. Its also positioned slightly better. The pedal feels pretty good. For the clutch line I used an M12 X 1.0, and an M10 X 1.0 to -3an fittings, with a 4ft stainless steel braided line, with one end having a 90 degree bend.

I still have to:

-Relocate the power steering reservoir
-Auto to manual wiring
-Vtec wiring, cooling fan switch, power and rpm signal for the distributor.
-Mount a smaller battery
-Intake tubing with filter
-Install an oil pressure gauge and wideband o2 sensor
-Exhaust system
-Make a radiator shroud for slim fans.

Getting closer I just have to put in the hours. I guess I could say most of the hard work is done? I cant believe I made this thing a manual with USDM parts.
 
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