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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
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Got the motor off the stand today and mounted the transmission. I'll take care of the mount studs eventually. This thing is huge compared to the B18 I have on a pallet. Still have plenty of work to do for it though.

Speaking of the B18... I wont be working on this project for 2-3 months. I have an EK civic hatch to work on. It used to be my friends car, but it got stolen back in October. I bought it from him after fixing most of the tweaker damage. I will be replacing all the seals, water pump, oil pump, timing belt, clutch, resurfacing the flywheel, I could go on but it wont take too long. The car will be going from auto to manual. Seems like every Honda I get starts off automatic.
 

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View attachment 30426

Got the motor off the stand today and mounted the transmission. I'll take care of the mount studs eventually. This thing is huge compared to the B18 I have on a pallet. Still have plenty of work to do for it though.

Speaking of the B18... I wont be working on this project for 2-3 months. I have an EK civic hatch to work on. It used to be my friends car, but it got stolen back in October. I bought it from him after fixing most of the tweaker damage. I will be replacing all the seals, water pump, oil pump, timing belt, clutch, resurfacing the flywheel, I could go on but it wont take too long. The car will be going from auto to manual. Seems like every Honda I get starts off automatic.

You should be good at swapping to manuals then....lol!!! :LOL:
 

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I would love to see a video from the top pov to see then engine bay for installing once the motor is dropped in. I have a 91 si with a b21a1 and a d2h4 transmission. I’m trying to find an lsd to install but they always say it’s not compatible. Would love to do a h22 swap in the near future. Love the updates and pics ! Can’t wait to see how it turns out
 

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I would love to see a video from the top pov to see then engine bay for installing once the motor is dropped in. I have a 91 si with a b21a1 and a d2h4 transmission. I’m trying to find an lsd to install but they always say it’s not compatible. Would love to do a h22 swap in the near future. Love the updates and pics ! Can’t wait to see how it turns out
Here is my time laps of the H swap into my old white H22 4WS -




And here is my time lapse of the B20b swap 4WS -
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Im pretty close to starting the swap. I need to get or do the following things:

-Shifter cables
-Axles. I have a midshaft from a 90-93 accord
-Rebuild starter/alternator. Theres a local guy out here that does that.
-A/C. I have the bracket for it already.
-Modified A/C and power steering lines.
-hondata engine management.
-Find a larger thermostat for an h22a. USDM engines have a smaller one for some reason.
-I have a 5th gen prelude clutch pedal assembly which is separate from the brake and accelerator pedal. It will probably need modifying for it to work.
-Clutch line, master and slave cylinder.

Im sure theres more im forgetting. Ill look into a timelapse, but this wont be getting finished in a day I know that.
 

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So you are not going to use the USDM 3rd gen pedal assembly? That would be easier because I know you were saying that the RHD is slightly different but it should still be easier than trying to modify a different gen pedal assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I had a few chances to get a usdm assembly at a junkyard and comparing the two I think it would be easier to modify a pedal assembly separate from the brake and accelerator pedal. RHD cars have the cutouts for the brake booster and clutch master cylinder mirrored in relation to LHD. In short I would mostly have issues clearing the steering column since the RHD pedals are just further apart from each other. On top of that I would have to drill a hole on the USDM clutch pedal for the clevis. The 5th gen prelude clutch pedal assembly looked similar enough to the RHD 3rd gen so I went and found one. If that doesnt work I could try a 92-00 civic pedal.

Make sense? Not really easy to explain without pictures.
 

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I had a few chances to get a usdm assembly at a junkyard and comparing the two I think it would be easier to modify a pedal assembly separate from the brake and accelerator pedal. RHD cars have the cutouts for the brake booster and clutch master cylinder mirrored in relation to LHD. In short I would mostly have issues clearing the steering column since the RHD pedals are just further apart from each other. On top of that I would have to drill a hole on the USDM clutch pedal for the clevis. The 5th gen prelude clutch pedal assembly looked similar enough to the RHD 3rd gen so I went and found one. If that doesnt work I could try a 92-00 civic pedal.

Make sense? Not really easy to explain without pictures.

No I get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
POST CLEARLY MARKED FILLER

This is not related to the swap at all but just about what I thought would be a quick project.

I bought a B18B from HMO to swap into a civic. The motor itself had minimal wear but there were some major problems. The first problem was that I could compress the valve springs with my fingers so the cylinder head had to come off. I replaced the springs with some from Brian Crower:

Wood Engineering Gas Font Audio equipment


Fortunately the block and head are flat within spec (.002") and I didn't need to have anything resurfaced at a machine shop. However... the cylinder walls weren't looking great. There were a few rust spots and the piston rings were in bad shape. The engine definitely would have burnt oil.

Water Automotive tire Plumbing fixture Fluid Rim


So I took apart the bottom end, honed the cylinders, polished the crank, replaced the bearings and piston rings. Here's how the pistons came out from our ultrasonic parts cleaner at work:

Wood Key Gas Personal protective equipment Tool


Walls after honing:

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The engine is all assembled and ready to install. I just dont have many pictures as usual.

Edit: My point is... an engine may be advertised as low miles but it is still old and will need work.
 

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This is correct, and just so you know JDM motors tend to not have oil changes over in Japan, so if you want a fresh engine, always take it down too bare metal and replace parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
This is correct, and just so you know JDM motors tend to not have oil changes over in Japan, so if you want a fresh engine, always take it down too bare metal and replace parts.
I sure do like the convinience of HMO however. I dont have the time to be constantly looking through junkyard inventories for engines that need even more work.
 

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How does a h22 swap affect handling of the Prelude? Is there a noticeable difference?
Its not going to affect handling at all. I do not know why people ask this question. Its not like its a V6 being swapped and this has been established for over 20 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Took the engine out:

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No LSD. Thought the SI States models allegedly came with it.

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I sure hate this engine design after taking it apart. Its half OBD1/OBD0... mixed in with some things that remind me of a 2nd gen Prelude.

Looks like the only thing I'm taking from this engine is the speed sensor since it has power steering fluid going through it. I take it there is no way around not using this?

Edit: If I were to use the VSS from my H22 transmission I would plug the lines that went to the original speed sensor. I just don't know how heavy the steering would be at low speeds is all.

Not sure what to start on next week. Maybe put the new engine in or see if the 5th gen prelude clutch pedal fits.

Other news... The lower ball joints need to be replaced since my tool bent the threads. I've never had that happen to me. And I may as well change the wheel studs since I found out the wheel's center bore doesn't match the hub.
 

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You can just use the 4g Prelude H series speed sensor, it has the same power steering lines.

FYI you don't need any special tools for the ball joints, just a mini sledge and 1" chisel. This video covers it:

Also, there seems to be a lot of poorly made lower ball joints coming out of southeast Asia lately. They break in various ways and cause lots of damage/danger. The quality genuine ones are still available from Honda: 51220-SB0-003
 
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