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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright so this is the thing, i got the visuals down, everything already in order to be done, but i need to build this motor and not sure were to go with it, turbo or n/a ? and whats good to put on these for power. Already has an intake, and minor exhaust, i need some help with this and if turbo no higher then a 12lb setup, cant afford to break all the time. and i need it to run at least 12's gotta beat my bros VR-4
 

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You're gonna spend some cash getting this thing where you want it. Probably about $4K being smart with your purchases.

If you are commited to this car then go for it and start looking at builds (like mine) and doing research. If you're just looking for a car that will pull on an SRT-4 then start with another platform that is more supported by the aftermarket community. Its your call...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks guys for all the help, and i have went around the local shops today and so far all i can find out is people telling me to just get a new car and make that one fast, and just use the lude as a everyday driver, so i am no looking at a ek hatch with a b18, lets see how that goes and thanks again
 

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thanks guys for all the help, and i have went around the local shops today and so far all i can find out is people telling me to just get a new car and make that one fast, and just use the lude as a everyday driver, so i am no looking at a ek hatch with a b18, lets see how that goes and thanks again
Wrong answer right there my friend. This site is the only place you will find the real aftermarket for this chassis.

If you want to go fast for cheap, then wrong chassis. You earn every power mod made on this car.

This car is the best feeling, handling chassis around hands down. To make it faster requires some investment.

If you only looking to put into small things like intake, header and catback, then you will get some good pull and will be able to keep up with the some cars on the road.
But if you want to hit 12's, then pull out a loan, because it will cost you at least $6000 to get close.

Power = money

And please do not think that a B18 is much faster just because its in a civic hatch. Unless its a built B18, then I can believe it, but you still have to put money into a B18 to try to hit that number that you put out there, so either way you are going to have to drop serious investment and time into making any car faster.

Here is an example of a 12 second :eek:mg: car:
600HP H22 Boosted 3GP - OMG!!!!! (
1 2 3 ... Last Page)
1funryd
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the reason i say B18 is because my friend builds B18 and for 4000$ he has gotten his to hit 12. and he already told me its about 6000 for the prelude. and i know the h22 is fast same with the b20a5. he has a hatch thats a b20a5 that also runs 12 but he has dumped over 6000$. but i dont wannna mess the motor up, i gotta use it everyday
 

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Show me a pic of this B20A5 hatch. I doubt it. And you're not hitting 12's in a hatch with a B18 unless it's boosted, and thats more than $4K if you want it to be reliable. An old engineering fact:

cheap - reliable - fast, pick two, you cannot have all three.
 

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I think its possible!

First if you havent already check out www.prelude3g.com This guy has alot of write ups that are very usefull.
here is the parts list I have come up with but i still havent completed it and it will cost alot less than 10k. more or less you could have a safely boosted car for less than 2k using used and rebuilt parts that are just as good!

H23 rods (have them shot peened)
Wisco pistons
Eagle or ARP Headstuds
B21A1 cams if your motor is NOT the 90-91 b20a5 otherwise there the same
MLS head gasket (there is a link to one on the website above its $90 or so)
DSM injectors
DSM turbo (they spool very very fast) - and there CHEAP
external wastegate
Im not sure on the turbo mani just yet. I know a guy got a dsm log to work?
The rest is really up to you on the no brainer turbo stuff, ic, timer, wg, ect.

Also you will want to do the OBD0 - OBD1 Convert. 90-91 B21A1 are and the computer will run it however you will need to change a few things to make it run right.

I hope this helps Im still trying to figure out the rest but with these parts you should safely push 12psi.:evil smile:
 

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This is How

Please divulge where you got this information about the 90/91 b20a5 having the same cams as the b21a1.
Look at the specs. I have a Chilton manual that has ALL of the engine specs and I got to looking at the cam specs because I wanted to see if there was any gain in swaping the cams from my parts car b21a1 motor to my b20a5. As I looked at each year the specs are different. The 88-89 cams in the b20a5 are different whereas the cams in the 90-91 B20A5 AND B21A1 are the same. When I find the manual in my car later i will give you the specs.
 

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Nitrous + H22 + Lightened car + drill holes in everything... I mean use a 2" metal hole cutter or jigsaw. Yea, you could hit 12's if you can get the car down to 1150 lbs. Anything is possible.

The Prelude is a street car that is reliable. A Neon is not a reliable car at all. Besides, you can make any car be a drag queen. Only a quality car can be street legal, fast, and reliable.
 

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Nitrous + H22 + Lightened car + drill holes in everything... I mean use a 2" metal hole cutter or jigsaw. Yea, you could hit 12's if you can get the car down to 1150 lbs. Anything is possible.

The Prelude is a street car that is reliable. A Neon is not a reliable car at all. Besides, you can make any car be a drag queen. Only a quality car can be street legal, fast, and reliable.
I suggest spending some time reading honda-tech. There are some guys there that have done some amazing things and you'll learn a lot.

BUT, I agree with the comments above, the 3gp is a great car, but it's not fast by today's standards (although it out handles them). A header, b21 tranny, exhaust, and proper made intake can get you high 15's at best.

But to hit 14's you'll need a lot more money and NA becomes pretty sketchy. When I went NA on my first 3gp I had JG 201 cams that made my car idle like a harley. It had crazy top end, but the rev limit is so low on the b21 that it made it almost pointless. With all those mods I was hitting mid 15's.

I've been in a 93 civic hatch with b18c drop that pulled high 13's (stock, no other mods other then I/E). That is cheaper then the above.

The 3gp is a car that handles great. Unequal length A-arms all around plus super low center of gravity does that. Look at the cowl line (the point where the dash meets the hood) on any modern car and notice how high they are. It's done for safety reasons, not to mention how much heavier modern cars are.
 
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