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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, Im seriously contemplating going the nitrous route. I have a jdm h22 (obd1) with bolt on's, stock (newish) clutch and 8lb flywheel.

I've read all the stickies on this and couple of other sites regarding the different kits, ways to install, supporting mods...etc. Im looking for people who have first hand experience to help me out alittle.

Im aiming for a 75shot because it seems perfect, not too much and not too little. Im only going to be shooting in 3rd and 4th gear since I feel thats where my car is slacking on the track. Im not looking to do drirect injection for the simple fact that its alot of work, plus my car will use nitrous maybe 1 day a month at most. Im looking for something fool proof, simple, yet effective and efficient. And also not too expensive.

I've read that with the dry kits, it's recommended to get a bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors to supply the extra needed fuel. This seems the easiest since there is less area for things to go wrong.

Im not sure if I could get away with a wet kit with the stock fuel pump and stock injectors.

As far as tuning, what have you guys used? I dont want the car's performance to slack the other 97% of the time when its not on the bottle. Right now im on a chipped p28.

Let me know what you guys thing, what kind of power you've made, what 1/4 mile times you guys have ran, and general experiences. Im looking to go back to the track in alittle less then a month so im trying to put this together soon.
 

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if you use a dry kit by adding a bigger fuel pump and injectorsit will require the car too be re-tuned....and you will have too have one map be for a n/a tune and one map for a n20 tune....most chipped ecu's can do this and usually you wire in a extra relay and a switch too switch the map for na or spray....this is a effective method but gets expensive because the car must be tuned on the dyno(usually)...

if you go the wet route use there reccomened jetting for a 75 shot on the n2o side and the fuel side.(i recommed this for a street car rarely sprayed on a 75 shot)
you wont need bigger injectors, a bigger fuel pump and adj fuel regulator could be benifitual...add a set of 1-step colder plugs and retard the timming a few degree's...car should be safe as ever....get your self a wideband and a way too datalog and look over your afr's,,if it apprears lean add some fuel by turning your adj fuel psi regulator up some....also check your plugs after a 1/4 mile run and see how they look..timming and fuel will show up on new plugs(make sure they are brand new when you make the pull) look at them make adjustements ass needed...
 

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Ray, you mentioned two maps. One for nitrous, one for n/a. I have my s300 so i could easily do this. Could i wire a switch like you said that i just flick for my nitrous map and to arm the nitrous? This map would have the retarded timing and my n/a map would just be a regular map allowing me to have the timing in the best position for n/a? Is all that correct?
 

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yes correct prudzlude....
you can have a agressive n/a map on mostlikey oem heat range plugs
then you wire a switch too arm the hondata ecu that allows you too run on
the dyno tunned n20 map... i would suggest one heat range min colder on the spray though.......so the only thing you will have too do is change out plugs and flick the switch and your n2o ready and safe,,,,,then i suggest a wot switch to spray the n2o into the motor.....


this method allows the use of a dry shot as well because you can have the injectors kick up the exttra fuel....but it can also be a good thing on a wet kit too because those jetting's are a basic guide,,this way on the dyno you will no excatally where the car is at and make small adjustments
 

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t3am 83rd,,,,i saw you were asking about race gas and 110 octane...
on a stock cr bolt on motor you probally wont see any gains...
but on spray if you ran race gas you could probally gain some power w the better fuel...it will allow you too either run more agressive timming or run a bigger shot
while still staying in the safe zone...you can also w most ecu's have a switch for race gas/pump gas,,,,where the car is tunned on both fuel's,,,
 

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I'll be fine running 1 step colder plugs on an N/A map won't I? How much power do those things rob? Reason being is I plan on rocking nitrous on the street and I sure as hell won't be swapping plugs everyday. I'll be hitting a dyno for both tunes, but i am curious as to how much of an effect 1 step colder can have on an n/a.
 

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on 1 step colder plugs the car will run just fine n/a,,,it may not rob any power,
but i would susspect a small decrease in power,,may 2-5whp less than a oem plug?
probally nothing that you would notice on the street...
 

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Hmmm well hopefully not. I'd like to crack 200whp on the n/a map, and push towards 260-270whp on the nitrous map. Numbers mean fuck all i know, but w/e it's always fun to throw numbers around at meets.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
After a very long day, and alot of thinking and pricing things out... I think im going to get the car tuned on the motor alone first. Then im going to track it, then im going to shoot a 75 wet shot with different spark plugs and see how things go.

I've spoken to a few tuners today and they told me basically the same thing that you did in your first post goldluderay. In addition they told me tuning the car with nitrous will be more expensive and if im only going to be shooting once in a blue moon, just run different plugs and keep an eye on the afr's.

I've seen a few local wet kits going for decent prices (around 200), seems pretty simple in install. I doubt I will run the WOT switch, most likely I'll will put in a button (F&F style lol) to activate the solenoids.

I was just thinking about the race gas thing because I was curious. And since I am trying to keep everything safe, I think I'll ditch that idea. I don't wanna run too big of a shot.

Prudz Lude, how fast is your car in the 1/4 mile now? and how fast do you want it to be with the nitrous?

I ran a 14.6 last year, did some upgrades, ran back at the track last week hoping to break 13.9, ended up going slower than last year, so now im gonna get it tuned, see how it performs then throw in some nitrous to see how that effects things.

Since the stock fuel pump is regulated by the stock fuel pressure regulator, why do people upgrade the fuel pump? Technically can't you get more fuel via the regualtor? Basically im trying to figure out if I need to dish out the cash for a walbro.
 

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the stock pump should be good for extra little fuel that may be needed....it's a just a walbro pump is desinged to be pushed harder longer
for performance applications
 

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Prudz Lude, how fast is your car in the 1/4 mile now? and how fast do you want it to be with the nitrous?

I ran a 14.6 last year, did some upgrades, ran back at the track last week hoping to break 13.9, ended up going slower than last year, so now im gonna get it tuned, see how it performs then throw in some nitrous to see how that effects things.
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That 15.8 is my first time out to the track, stock motor, with 300k on it, shitty all season tires, only a cold air intake. It's not even the same car I am putting the nitrous on. I intend on getting low 13's, high 12's. But, this car is mainly a street car. I don't really care for the track too much. This is why i don't want to change the plugs every day. I know what mods affect what, I've had 3 ludes and had some different setups. My new lude (current build one) is not going to be ANYTHING close to any of the other ones.
 

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I ran a 14.6 last year, did some upgrades, ran back at the track last week hoping to break 13.9, ended up going slower than last year, so now im gonna get it tuned, see how it performs then throw in some nitrous to see how that effects things.
Shit you ran a 14.6 in a 5th gen on a stock motor?

Im mad about that!

Damn my best time in a gutted 4th gen is 14.8 untuned bolt ons.

Im going to be running nitrous next time at the track. Right now I have a 50 shot hooked up, I think I lost the 75 jettings, which is what I want to run.

I am setting up to run one degree retarded on 2 step colder plugs
 
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