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how do you get the spindle off? i removed the 4 rear nuts but it's really on there. do you have to take the axle nut and bearing housing off? i thought that would all come off as one.
I just tapped it with a rubber mallet from the backside on the studs - you don't have to remove the heat shield and all, but it does make it easier.



i mean the autozone adapter kit for honda. anyway, this clarification isn't worth this much trouble lol. the clamp works just fine. do you know what brand the honda kit you got is?



I'm going to look around for alternative kits, but this worked fine.
 

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I just tapped it with a rubber mallet from the backside on the studs - you don't have to remove the heat shield and all, but it does make it easier.

That's what I figured. I'll give it another go after work today. Gave it a good dousing of PB blaster so hopefully that helps. It looks pretty well fused on though...
 

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I just tapped it with a rubber mallet from the backside on the studs - you don't have to remove the heat shield and all, but it does make it easier.








I'm going to look around for alternative kits, but this worked fine.


ahh autozone had "OEM" brand i believe in a red box. powerbuilt stuff seems to work pretty well in my experience.


Milkman, just whack it on the side with a hammer or if you hit the studs thread the nuts back on a few threads to protect them and do a criss cross pattern with a hammer. it'll come off.
 

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And the rear upper arms, has the same balljoint like the front upper arms too?
They are different balljoints in the uppers. One being larger than the other.
 

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So.. I have a rear upper ball joint disassembled, and the outer diameter was 33,4 mm. Thats same like front
That's interesting.

What model do you have? I've used different part numbers for the uppers due to the size difference.
 

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Even I am confused, LOL. Do let me know if you find something man.

Regards.


We have upper and lower balljoints in the front and rear of the vehicle. Uppers being on the upper control arm, and lowers being on the knuckle assembly.
 

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Just wanted to say thanks to everybody on this forum from 2011. that's all the information and part numbers needed, im able to fix the car on my own. Thanks 2019
 

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The car has upper and lower ball joints, front and rear for a total of eight. I got my uppers in the front for a decent price from Honda. Whole control arm with new bushings and ball joint for just under $100 per side. I think they were worth it.
To get the lower rear from Honda you have to buy the whole knuckle that, IIRC, was $350 per side.
Here's the rundown.
Front lowers: Can be bought from Honda, NAPA, Rockauto, etc...
Front uppers: Just buy the whole arm with new bushings from Honda, NAPA, Rockauto, etc...
Rear lowers: Put front lowers in from your part supplier of choice.
Rear uppers: Mine have no play at 248k so just keep a good boot full of grease on them and they seem like they might last forever.
 

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I see this is an ever active thread.... Just wanted to let anyone looking through here that there is a recall across certain VINs on the lower ball joints.

I briefly browsed the thread, sorry if its already been mentioned... An admin should probably stickie it at the start of the thread



27104
 

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Ok so I know this is an old thread. And I do enjoy doi6my own research. I actually just asked the very question this thread answers. It's crazy it took me three days to find this thread...
So the correct balljoints for the rear lowers are the same as the front rearward balljoints on a type sh if I'm reading this correctly. Is this correct?
 

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I just thought I'd let you know that the rear lower ball joints on the 5th gen are the same as the front. Honda wants you to buy a new knuckle with them pre-installed, NAPA and other sources do not list a 5th gen rear lower but you can just buy the fronts and they work just fine. They are identical. I bought them from Rockauto and they are AC Delco.
One has to remove the spindle from the knuckle (after removing the knuckle from the car) and getting them out can be a challenge. I work in a machine shop and whipped up some stuff to work in the press but, my mechanic friends say an air hammer for removal and press for the new ones in.
My car has hit 248k and they have finally wore out. I hope this helps anyone else looking to replace these. jiofi.local.html Login – Manage & Change your JioFi Wifi Password For PC - Download Best Apps & Softwares for PC
 

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Thanks. I haven't updated my information yet but I finished my mechanical work I had to do to my 5th gen sh. It's a fucking blast to drive. It's faster and handles better than my friends sh. His has a similar setup as mine is. We both only have bolt ons. And I'm just now starting to have fun with it, I had to break in the new clutch. I'm going to wait till next summer to finish the rest of the work. I have some minor rust that I have to take care of and it's in desperate need of new paint. But I have to say I love my lude
 

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So there's no difference between a 98 honda prelude sh lower ball joints.the two front are are the same as the radius rod ball joints??
I know it's an old post, but this is concerning to me. Is there really any difference between the ball joint 51220-SL5-013 that connects to the lca and the ball joint that connects to the radius rod/traction bar 51220-S30-N21?

I have a '97 sh with 190k, pretty beat up (got it cheap) I was in a bind and had two 51220-SL5-013's and was able to press both of them them in the drivers knuckle and get my car driving. It was handling perfect.

Then two days later I broke my passenger upper. Put an adjustable one in, couldn't seem to get it to drive right. Then i noticed my inner tie rod ends were bad, replaced those (made sure I counted turns) and eventually (now) burned out the camber on the inside of both my front tires.

I plan to order new upper control arms. I need lowers because the bushings are shot, and a drivers side axle. Any suggestions? Think I should press out that 51220-SL5-013 and replace with 51220-S30-N21, hoping I didn't mess my knuckle up by doing this...
 

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Yea there's a slight difference in diameter all your balljoints will need pressed in. Theres a reason why they have different numbers on the front lower forward and front lower rearward balljoints. If your watching you tube like I was when I was rebuilding mine, you'll see someone is doing thier balljoints and one just literally slid into the hole while the other needed pressed in. Don't be fooled by that video it is not the correct balljoints used for the one that just slid in. Just be sure you read the descriptions if your ordering parts off the interwebs lol. And the upper balljoint is the same on all 4 corners. The rear lower balljoints are for sure the part numbers listed for rear lower balljoints in this thread. Good luck and when your done with the sh, you'll enjoy the car just as much as I do.
 
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