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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok let's get started. This took me about 2 hours to complete so expect about that much time for yourself. Do not attempt this if you don't know your way around a soldering iron and/or simple hand tools, PreludePower.com and I are in no way responsible if you screw this up.

Tools needed:
Ratchet
10mm socket
3" extention
Phillips screwdriver
Solder iron
Solder

First thing you need to do is disconnect the battery.
Also the carpeted cover inside the trunk can come off.


This clip is on either side at the front of the back seat just pull out on them and pull up on the seat and it should come loose then it can be pulled out. And please, do this on the driver's side


Now the rest of the back seat. The two outside bolts are for the seat but you can go ahead and pull out the middle bolt it will eventually need to come out. These 3 bolts and the rest from here on out are 10mm.


This is what you should have at this point.


These 5 bolts are next. One is behind the top plate, once you get it off you'll see it.


The bolts in red need to come all the way out, the ones in yellow you just need to loosen a good bit, do not take them all the way out.


These are the last few bolts that hold the cover on, pull them out and go ahead unplug the wires.


By now you should have already pulled the carpeted cover off from inside the trunk. The 2 bolts you should have left on but loose are the only thing holding up the module at this point. From inside the trunk lift up and out on the module, it should come out, if not loosen those 2 bolts, if it still doesn't want to come out have a friend hold it up while you take those 2 bolts out so it doesn't come crashing down, it should come out though.
Now take the plastic cover off from around the wires, its just clipped in there, take the 10mm and unbolt all these wires. These wires can only go on the terminal that they are supposed to so you dont have to mark them, you can if you want though.


Ok now find a place to work. Go ahead and plug your solder iron in so it can heat up, this next part wont take long. Take all 6 of these screws out with a Phillips screwdriver.


After you open it you'll see a plate that separates the 2 halves (not shown) pull those 5 screws out and you'll have this.
The screws in red need to come out, there's a few towards the bottom that you cant see in this pic, the ones in yellow dont need to be removed. You dont need to mess with the other half. The 2 small relays that are side by side at the bottom is what you'll be working on.


Carefully take out the board and flip it out of the box and on to the other half. Circled in red is what you need to re-solder it looks like 2 "T's" right next to each other. Yours like mine may look fine but go ahead and re-solder it, you already did all the work to get it out. You need to heat up the solder around all 10 points till it melts you dont really need to add solder unless they're in pretty bad shape.

Once this is done and you are happy with it put it all back together and enjoy having your 4ws back.

Don't forget the battery!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanx, I did it cause a lot of people tell you how to do it but i havent found a write-up for it, and my 4ws was messed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know this is a stupid question, but what symptoms does this fix address? I don't actually own a lude, I'm here for my brother's sake, so don't flame me please.
This is a common problem with the Si4ws the solder on the relays get like little fishers in them for some reason which is why you have to just melt it to fix it. The symptom is the 4ws doesnt work, this could also be just a fuse but i checked mine before i did this. What was happening with mine was it would come and go i could reset it by pulling the radio fuse out and it would fix it for a while but itd mess up a few days later.
 

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I am glad the 3rd gens do not have this issue. Ours are purley mechanical 99% of them have had no issues from the factory until this day.

Great job on figuring out the electronic issue though, that is a hard one to trouble shoot. :colgate:
 

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I am glad the 3rd gens do not have this issue. Ours are purley mechanical 99% of them have had no issues from the factory until this day.

Great job on figuring out the electronic issue though, that is a hard one to trouble shoot. :colgate:
Typical 4th gen bad solder joints, just like the main relay and AC heat controls have problems all due to poor solder joints. Great write up, just glad mine does not have 4ws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What do you mean by removing the radio fuse? Just pulling the fuse in the fuse box for the radio and it starts working again?
Basically. . . I saw somewhere when my 4ws started messing up that you could pull the 10 amp radio fuse under the hood for 10 seconds and it would reset the computer, I tried it and it worked. But it didn't last long 2 days max with me.

What codes would it normally throw in order for this to work?
I'm not actually sure it throws a code. . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
So once you get the computer plate out you need to just heat up each individual spot or do you need to melt them til they connect again and make a complete T?
This is not the place to connect the dots ah ha, you just need to melt each individual connection
..o..o..o....o..o..o...... <--- Thats what I mean by "T's"
.....o............o......... you cant miss it on the board
.....o............o......... and they're bigger than the
connections around them.
 
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