[Splits51]

Hello...just bought a 96 vtec. It's the second one I have owned having had a 93 about 15 years ago. It had the ever present rust over the rear wheel wells. The new one is pristine and only has 35k miles on it. I want to prevent that rust from getting hold of this one. Are there any alterations I can make to keep it safe?

 

[MommysLittleMonster]

Take the rubber lip liners off of the quarters, if it still has them. That will prevent trapped moisture from rotting the seams very quickly.

Jack up the car, remove the rear wheels, and wash the insides of the fenderwells REALLY well, especially the lips of the quarters. Scrub the snot out of the areas that rust, because that's where dirt and debris likes to settle and trap moisture against the sheetmetal.

If you live in a place where it rains frequently, or drive this car through the winter, the next best step you can take is to coat the inside of the quarter panel, the quarter panel lips, and even a little of the flat area on the outside of the lip with some quality chassis paint. Prep the area by scuffing the inside with a Scotchbrite pad, then clean it with some Wax & Grease remover so the paint adheres well. There are lots of options to use here, but see what you can get locally. Stay away from Rustoleum.

I've had AWESOME luck with Chassis Saver paint- it's incredibly durable and does a great job of sealing out moisture. It comes in a half-pint can like this:

Jegs carries it, so does Amazon; but I got it cheapest at a local Auto Body supply store locally.

This is what the underside of my 2015 WRX looked like before it's first winter here in NY. What you see is actually what's covered by the factory plastic splash guards and skid plates, but I REALLY didn't want any rust to even get the chance to start! The paint has held up incredibly well, and none of the usual "surface rust" has appeared where most people get it already.

Congrats on finding a low-mile, clean 4th gen!

 

[Splits51]

Thanks for the reply

 

[bmv2000]

There are also other rust preventative products offered by the Eastwood Co in Pennsylvania. And all sorts of body work, mechanical supplies and specialty tools.
Ask for a catalog, really interesting.
By the way just what's the problem with Rustoleum? Granted it's probably not as effective or long lasting as your product. Did you have a bad experience ?

 

[MommysLittleMonster]

There are also other rust preventative products offered by the Eastwood Co in Pennsylvania. And all sorts of body work, mechanical supplies and specialty tools.
Ask for a catalog, really interesting.
By the way just what's the problem with Rustoleum? Granted it's probably not as effective or long lasting as your product. Did you have a bad experience ?

Rustoleum is thinner, and not nearly as tough. I used Rustoleum paint on my chassis parts and frames before, and it always ended up flaking/chipping/falling off after a year or two. The chassis saver I've used on the bottom of my Prelude and my truck is still going strong after 5+ years; same goes for my car trailer.

I can't accurate describe the differences between the materials, but I CAN tell you that Chassis Saver goes on thicker and endures a hell of a lot better than anything else I've ever used. Rustoleum I can usually wash off my hands with some soap and water. Chassis saver is literally fused to your skin for a few days minimum. :lol:

 

[bmv2000]

Hey,
Thanks for the reply about Rustoleum and Chassis Saver. It makes sense that a dedicated
automotive product would work better than a general purpose paint product. I was just going to brush it on a set of aluminum wheels . They're an intricate basket weave style like the old BBS wheels which are impossible to keep clean, with all the nooks and crevices. Figured brushing it on ( in black) would leave a thicker, longer lasting finish than spraying from a can. Well, we'll see. Thanks again for the reply. Ben