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**Added to Thread!!**

Update on upgrading the Torque converter!! 09/11/06
I spoke to a local shop up here in WA(Precision Torque Converters - 253-288-2233)
According to Neal the tech, he said that the Honda Torque Converters were very strong and are capable of handling some boost. However, I asked him what was involved in beefing up the torque converters? He said they just look for weak spots on the TC they add extra welds so as to not have the thing fly apart under the extra Horse Power.
He also recommends flushing the whole system out to get any particles that may have gotten into the tranny and adding an inline filter on the transmission fluid line to keep the TC from getting damaged.
For this upgrade they are charging $212.16 (which includes the Core fee if you do not give them your core. Core fee - $30.00)

So, for those of you wanting to Turbo Charge your Auto like Me! We have a cheaper option! :smile:

Sean


Sean, am I reading this right? We can get a good torque converter from someone local to you? As you know I am turboing an auto but this seems a cheap option and it would definitely be worth installing before I fire it up. If thats the price for a torque converter that can handle at least 8 psi of boost I think I want one to put on the project car. We need to talk.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Sean, am I reading this right? We can get a good torque converter from someone local to you? As you know I am turboing an auto but this seems a cheap option and it would definitely be worth installing before I fire it up. If thats the price for a torque converter that can handle at least 8 psi of boost I think I want one to put on the project car. We need to talk.
Call me up and I will help connect you with these guys.
 

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so do we have to do the washer thing with the 450cc injectors? you updated it saying they were plug and play, just trying to confirm. thanks,
craig
 

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Discussion Starter #28
so do we have to do the washer thing with the 450cc injectors? you updated it saying they were plug and play, just trying to confirm. thanks,
craig
Some people did not have to do that, they fit just fine. But it depends. If you cant get them to fit, then I recommend boring out the rubber O rings to make the fit.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I added more information on using an H22 Treadstone Turbo Manifold for the 3rd gens.

Information is in the middle of the first post. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #31
alright well riddle me this. although it seems like going further out of the way for the obd1 conversion, is it possible to just drop a b20a5 in a 90-91 si chassis that originally came obd1? or would there still be some converting with connectors and such?

Ok to clear things up.

All that needs to be done is to swap all accessories from the B21 to the B20 head and block.

No need to do any wiring since the B21 is already OBD1.

So we don't have any confusion this is what I mean:

Take the B21 out and transfer:
Intake manifold
Exhaust manifold
Powersteering pump(they are both the same so really no need but its your choice)
Engine harness

Then plug everything back up.
 

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well, i really hate to do this, but i am not getting any answers, and i really need some 3g experience here. sorry to clutter up your thread Sean, but this will be useful to those wanting to go down this road.

i am building for a n/a setup for now. the car is an 89 prelude si converted to obd1

b20a bored to fit 83.5mm b21 pistons.
b20a intake ported and polished as well as gasket matched to the head. head got same treatment.

here is my question. the car will be possibly retaining its iab's. i have an ecu thread, but not getting any responses there, so i will try here.

for the turbo'd ludes, how did you get the iab's to work after getting tuned, and what ecu was used to do it?

i spoke to blake(98vtec) and he told me that the pr4 and the p28 do not have the ability to control the iab's. unfortunately, he is a 4th/5th gen tuner and i don't doubt his abilities, but i am gonna need a tune, and the car is going to get turbo'd at a later date, so please help me out.
 

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well, i really hate to do this, but i am not getting any answers, and i really need some 3g experience here. sorry to clutter up your thread Sean, but this will be useful to those wanting to go down this road.

i am building for a n/a setup for now. the car is an 89 prelude si converted to obd1

b20a bored to fit 83.5mm b21 pistons.
b20a intake ported and polished as well as gasket matched to the head. head got same treatment.

here is my question. the car will be possibly retaining its iab's. i have an ecu thread, but not getting any responses there, so i will try here.

for the turbo'd ludes, how did you get the iab's to work after getting tuned, and what ecu was used to do it?

i spoke to blake(98vtec) and he told me that the pr4 and the p28 do not have the ability to control the iab's. unfortunately, he is a 4th/5th gen tuner and i don't doubt his abilities, but i am gonna need a tune, and the car is going to get turbo'd at a later date, so please help me out.
if you want to keep the iab's you will need to use a p72
 

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i have been researching this. what i seem to be finding is that the tuning software is also a factor in whether or not the iab's will function. the oem solenoid can be told to activate based on rpm as well? i am total noob to tuning, and i will be asking alot more questions, so bear with me.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Front page edited and updated

I had to delete a lot of missing information and old information regarding this thread.

As of the date of this post, LSDMotosports.com no longer supporting the 3rd gen community. They have moved in a different direction and have since stopped fabricating anything.

You may try and contact them, but I make no promises or guarantee's that they can help.

They may still sell the universal parts for turbo charging but not 3rd gen specific anymore.

Sean
 

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i have been researching this. what i seem to be finding is that the tuning software is also a factor in whether or not the iab's will function. the oem solenoid can be told to activate based on rpm as well? i am total noob to tuning, and i will be asking alot more questions, so bear with me.
yep thats right... just unplug the hose that goes from the back of the IM to the iabs.. unplug it FROM the IM.. you can leave it just hanging there, there is no need to plug it.. then.. look for the intake air bypass actuator.. its like a mushroom.. find the vacuum line in it and follow it till the furthest you hand can go.. cut it there. Then just plug the remaining hose you just cut into the backside of the IM were you removed the line... the black iab box is now... totally disconnected. The iab plates will now be operated without the black box...
 

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yep thats right... just unplug the hose that goes from the back of the IM to the iabs.. unplug it FROM the IM.. you can leave it just hanging there, there is no need to plug it.. then.. look for the intake air bypass actuator.. its like a mushroom.. find the vacuum line in it and follow it till the furthest you hand can go.. cut it there. Then just plug the remaining hose you just cut into the backside of the IM were you removed the line... the black iab box is now... totally disconnected. The iab plates will now be operated without the black box...

i knew you could run the iab's off engine vacuum, but they will not operate at a specific rpm anymore, rather off direct manifold vacuum. this is something i can try, but don't know if there will be any adverse affects with the bigger bore, higher compression, and different cams. the vacuum properties in the manifold will be different than stock i would think, and this may cause sloppy operation of the iab's. we will see though. motor is just about finished, and the car is going through body and paint work, so its gonna be a little while.
 

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i knew you could run the iab's off engine vacuum, but they will not operate at a specific rpm anymore, rather off direct manifold vacuum. this is something i can try, but don't know if there will be any adverse affects with the bigger bore, higher compression, and different cams. the vacuum properties in the manifold will be different than stock i would think, and this may cause sloppy operation of the iab's. we will see though. motor is just about finished, and the car is going through body and paint work, so its gonna be a little while.
Bigger Bore + higher compression + dif. cams = REMOVE THE IAB PLATE FROM THE MANIFOLD (More power, less problems).
 

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Bigger Bore + higher compression + dif. cams = REMOVE THE IAB PLATE FROM THE MANIFOLD (More power, less problems).
forget to tell you that the throttle body has already been through max bore, and that the head and intake both recieved a full port and polish and gasket matching. the throttle body will be getting gasket matched to the upper plenum as well.

thanks for the info bro. will this still be the same deal? get rid of the iab's and don't look back?
 

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OBD1 Conversion for Tuning and Fuel Management

forget to tell you that the throttle body has already been through max bore, and that the head and intake both recieved a full port and polish and gasket matching. the throttle body will be getting gasket matched to the upper plenum as well.

thanks for the info bro. will this still be the same deal? get rid of the iab's and don't look back?
Definitly. A túne will make it run like a champ. Its like getting an aftermarket im without iabs. Before you re-open the im, dont forget to find a matching gasket again. Good luck man!
 
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