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3rd gen no crank/start electrical issue

380 Views 29 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  1funryd
hey, new to the forums and I'm at a loss with this 3rd gen prelude I just picked up. when I put the key and turn it to ignition the CEL doesn't turn on and neither does the Oil pressure light, only the battery light. The ECU is getting power because I can see it blinking codes and I'm also hearing the car beep. my clock also doesn't work either. All ECU fuses are good, main relay is also good and clicking like it should. I jumped the starter and it works but not if I turn the key. fuel pump also is not priming. I'm guessing power isn't getting sent somewhere it should be and is stopping the car from being able to crank/start but I don't know where. I've changed the ignition switch wiring but that didn't do anything for the problem. is there a set of wires I can follow and see if I can find a problem? the ECU Grounds at the thermostat are also good, and the car has its transmission ground and intake manifold ground. I'm really at a loss, I want to see this car run! it's been sitting since 2001 so please help me out guys.
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The story as I know it is that the car was last registered in 2001, and at some point stopped running and got sold. Then it was a shell and the owner I bought it from had it for 10
Years and in that time put a rebuilt motor in it and painted the bay. The motor has never been run. I thought it was gonna be reassembly and then the car would run but the wiring was a mess, and I’ve been chasing down splices and missing wiring components for about a month. I have a parts prelude I’ve been using to fill in the gaps but everything I throw at the car still hasn’t gotten it to the point where I can crank the engine with the key
The story as I know it is that the car was last registered in 2001, and at some point stopped running and got sold. Then it was a shell and the owner I bought it from had it for 10
Years and in that time put a rebuilt motor in it and painted the bay. The motor has never been run. I thought it was gonna be reassembly and then the car would run but the wiring was a mess, and I’ve been chasing down splices and missing wiring components for about a month. I have a parts prelude I’ve been using to fill in the gaps but everything I throw at the car still hasn’t gotten it to the point where I can crank the engine with the key
Then you are dealing with someonelses problems.

That is going to have to troubleshot from the ground up.

Pinout every connection on ignition system.
You found out already that there was no signal on the Blk/wht starter wire.
So keep tracking down from there.
Code 15 is showing "Ignition output signal".
Oh wow, I missed that it's been sitting for 22 years. You probably have multiple issues with this car. What steps did you take before you tried starting the engine? I hope you at lease drained the old gas out of the tank and changed the oil before trying to start it.
the tank is empty I’m pretty sure and the car had brand new oil so I’m not changing it out until I’m sure all systems work cause I’m broke and only putting money when necessary.

i got the car to crank, I had to jump the black/white wire bypass the fuse box. I’m not happy about it but it is what it is. Also, I discovered the fuel pump is getting 12v at initial startup and crank like it should but the pump is dead and I’m assuming the tank is rusted out, so I’ll be grabbing those from the parts car. My problem now is that I’m getting no spark. I got rid of code 15 by replacing the coil, igniter, and distributor with the one from my parts car but I still can’t get spark. Any ideas? I tested continuity for the 3 blacm/yellow wired That come from the ignition system and they all tested good. The blue wire from the igniter to the coil also tested good. Is there some kind of fail safe that’s preventing spark?
the tank is empty I’m pretty sure and the car had brand new oil so I’m not changing it out until I’m sure all systems work cause I’m broke and only putting money when necessary.

i got the car to crank, I had to jump the black/white wire bypass the fuse box. I’m not happy about it but it is what it is. Also, I discovered the fuel pump is getting 12v at initial startup and crank like it should but the pump is dead and I’m assuming the tank is rusted out, so I’ll be grabbing those from the parts car. My problem now is that I’m getting no spark. I got rid of code 15 by replacing the coil, igniter, and distributor with the one from my parts car but I still can’t get spark. Any ideas? I tested continuity for the 3 blacm/yellow wired That come from the ignition system and they all tested good. The blue wire from the igniter to the coil also tested good. Is there some kind of fail safe that’s preventing spark?
there is one of your main problems, you got no spark.
But also you dont have fuel.

Those 2 out of the 3 main processes that require a motor to start and run
Yeah I know but getting fuel through the system is straight forward now, I gotta replace the pump/tank. It’s spark I’m not sure how to go about fixing. I looked on the FAQ and I didn’t see anything about troubleshooting no spark. I did find a post about testing the igniter and it tested good. Anything else I can do to figure out why there’s no spark? How would I test the coil?
Yeah I know but getting fuel through the system is straight forward now, I gotta replace the pump/tank. It’s spark I’m not sure how to go about fixing. I looked on the FAQ and I didn’t see anything about troubleshooting no spark. I did find a post about testing the igniter and it tested good. Anything else I can do to figure out why there’s no spark? How would I test the coil?
For that process the pdf manual is there for you to trouble shoot properly.
But let me see if I can find a thread that discussed this....
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Check the stopper pad up high on the clutch pedal. Not the lower one. The plastic stopper pad that contacts the clutch interlock switch had deteriorated and fallen apart on mine leaving the hole it snaps into open. The switch plunger will go right through that hole and you won't get a ground to the starter relay if that switch is not actuating. I just glued a 1/8" thick piece of phenolic material where the pad had been which solved my no crank issue.
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Okay so I tested the igniter with a test light and it’s sending the signal to the coil, but the coil is not sending spark to the distributor and I don’t know why. I already replaced the coil with a known good one, and it didn’t fix anything. I’m sure the coil is not what’s broken, and I’m not sure where to go from here
Okay so I tested the igniter with a test light and it’s sending the signal to the coil, but the coil is not sending spark to the distributor and I don’t know why. I already replaced the coil with a known good one, and it didn’t fix anything. I’m sure the coil is not what’s broken, and I’m not sure where to go from here
Ok, I have a feeling about something. Take a picture of what you tested on the coil and post.
Its easy to do now on this new format, just take a pic with your cell and login on your phones chrome or whatever you use for webrowsing on your cell and upload directly to the site.
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