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Hello I am hoping someone can help me here. The rear passenger lower control arm on my 1990 Prelude needs to be replaced or at least a new ball joint. I am sorry if this was covered in a previous conversation I just want to make sure to get the right info. All used parts have failed thus far. Thanks for your help, hoping to get her back on the road.
 

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1989 Accord LXi Coupe; 1989 Prelude 2.0s; 1964 Dodge Dart GT: 1993 Kawasaki ZX-11; 1982 Honda CB900
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1989 Accord LXi Coupe; 1989 Prelude 2.0s; 1964 Dodge Dart GT: 1993 Kawasaki ZX-11; 1982 Honda CB900
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Discussion Starter #9

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1990 Honda Prelude 2.0Si, 1989 Honda Prelude 2.0Si 4ws, 1990 Honda Prelude Si 4ws, etc.
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Hello I am hoping someone can help me here. The rear passenger lower control arm on my 1990 Prelude needs to be replaced or at least a new ball joint. I am sorry if this was covered in a previous conversation I just want to make sure to get the right info. All used parts have failed thus far. Thanks for your help, hoping to get her back on the road.
That's not the lower control arm, and the bushings posted are actually for a lower control arm. What you're looking at is what they call the rear toe arm. This is what was used to tie the rear steering knuckle to the central crossmember in the rear of those models that didn't have 4ws. There is no getting that ball joint out of there - it's WELDED in. No ball joint press in the world will take it out. The only solution is to replace the whole arm. I found this out on my own lude - those joints are so sloppy with over 100k on them that they're USELESS for keeping the rear toe straight. I did manage to find an aftermarket part that can replace it - Megan Racing makes replacement toe arms for 4th gen ludes that will fit. It's not a perfect fit, but can be made so because they are adjustable.



Looking for factory replacement parts is a great idea, but Honda quit making parts for these 3g ludes in general, so they're not easy to find. A used part will likely have the same problems yours has, so that's not a reliable solution. Otherwise, taking the factory part to a race/speed machine shop and seeing if they can duplicate it is an option....but I have a feeling it would cost more than you can get the Megan parts for. I've put those on my own, and they work great.

Caveats - the bolt that attaches it to the central crossmember is a cam-bolt, to make it adjustable, which the adjustable bar will make redundant - which is perfectly fine, since you probably had to cut it to get the bar out in the first place, right? I sure did....and it was not an easy task. Replace the bolt with a grade 8 bolt of the same size with a washer on either side that fills in the gap the cam lobe rode in. Fair warning: If you do not add the washer to fill in that gap, the bar will be sloppy and rattle, and there will be slack that causes your car to handle funny, like you had the old bar still on there with the bad ball joint on it. It should be easy to find a washer that fits right inside the cam area and cancel out that movement. You can tack weld the washer onto the crossmember after the new arms are installed if you'd like to make good and sure it won't move (I did, but I feel like it was probably unnecessary). Adjust your rear toe so that your wheel is as straight as possible and tighten the arms down. Then go have it aligned, being sure to inform the technician that the rear toe is adjustable with the new arms. They'll be able to figure it out from there.
 
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That's not the lower control arm, and the bushings posted are actually for a lower control arm. What you're looking at is what they call the rear toe arm. This is what was used to tie the rear steering knuckle to the central crossmember in the rear of those models that didn't have 4ws. There is no getting that ball joint out of there - it's WELDED in. No ball joint press in the world will take it out. The only solution is to replace the whole arm. I found this out on my own lude - those joints are so sloppy with over 100k on them that they're USELESS for keeping the rear toe straight. I did manage to find an aftermarket part that can replace it - Megan Racing makes replacement toe arms for 4th gen ludes that will fit. It's not a perfect fit, but can be made so because they are adjustable.



Looking for factory replacement parts is a great idea, but Honda quit making parts for these 3g ludes in general, so they're not easy to find. A used part will likely have the same problems yours has, so that's not a reliable solution. Otherwise, taking the factory part to a race/speed machine shop and seeing if they can duplicate it is an option....but I have a feeling it would cost more than you can get the Megan parts for. I've put those on my own, and they work great.

Caveats - the bolt that attaches it to the central crossmember is a cam-bolt, to make it adjustable, which the adjustable bar will make redundant - which is perfectly fine, since you probably had to cut it to get the bar out in the first place, right? I sure did....and it was not an easy task. Replace the bolt with a grade 8 bolt of the same size with a washer on either side that fills in the gap the cam lobe rode in. Fair warning: If you do not add the washer to fill in that gap, the bar will be sloppy and rattle, and there will be slack that causes your car to handle funny, like you had the old bar still on there with the bad ball joint on it. It should be easy to find a washer that fits right inside the cam area and cancel out that movement. You can tack weld the washer onto the crossmember after the new arms are installed if you'd like to make good and sure it won't move (I did, but I feel like it was probably unnecessary). Adjust your rear toe so that your wheel is as straight as possible and tighten the arms down. Then go have it aligned, being sure to inform the technician that the rear toe is adjustable with the new arms. They'll be able to figure it out from there.
Amazing thank you for taking the time to pass on this info.
 

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Hold onto the links for the super pro bushings and rear lower ball joints that Blaine put up for you. Those are useful to have, and the parts aren't easy to find. I've only actually located rear lower ball joints for our cars at Rock Auto, to be honest - a manufacturer called Lemforder makes them.....and for at least a time, they were the only place I could get them, and they didn't keep a large stock of them. On the other hand, the ball joints might just say that they're rear lowers but are really front lowers, which is the experience I had with a couple sellers....they didn't misrepresent the product on purpose - they just didn't know any better. The rear lowers are quite a bit bigger around than the fronts, and they are definitely not the same part. Even O'Reillys system thinks they're the same, but they're not. Those super pro bushings are great upgrades for lower control arms, and if you're going to have them off anyway, it's worth doing!
 
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Hold onto the links for the super pro bushings and rear lower ball joints that Blaine put up for you. Those are useful to have, and the parts aren't easy to find. I've only actually located rear lower ball joints for our cars at Rock Auto, to be honest - a manufacturer called Lemforder makes them.....and for at least a time, they were the only place I could get them, and they didn't keep a large stock of them. On the other hand, the ball joints might just say that they're rear lowers but are really front lowers, which is the experience I had with a couple sellers....they didn't misrepresent the product on purpose - they just didn't know any better. The rear lowers are quite a bit bigger around than the fronts, and they are definitely not the same part. Even O'Reillys system thinks they're the same, but they're not. Those super pro bushings are great upgrades for lower control arms, and if you're going to have them off anyway, it's worth doing!
That’s great advice, I will definitely consider upgrading the bushings. Thanks
 

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That's not the lower control arm, and the bushings posted are actually for a lower control arm.
Well yeah, I posted as to what he was asking about...... lower control arm
 
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