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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
88-91 Prelude B20vtec swap

So it took about 9 years to get this thing off the ground. So many setbacks and issues but finally have a complete product to show the community.

1FunRyd Performance - 88-91 Prelude B20vtec swap is complete.

Original thread of where this swap started: 88-91 Prelude B20b/z swap

The lude is running and drivable, but the ecu needs to be chipped and tuned to pull out more power to get the vtec engaging as well.
Essentially the car is a high compression B20b right now since vtec is not setup but as you can see in the video below that it does perform well.

This build is a complete build. I have AC, Powersteering and Cruise control on this swap just like my last H22 swap. I felt that any swap in this car deserved to be a truly complete swap with all the creature comforts that come with our chassis stock.

I will continue to update the thread as we get full completion and then of course test drive it more and get on the road more often.

So without further delay here are the videos in sequence:

1. Video - Part 3


2. Video Part 2


3. Video Part 1.




4. Dyno video of a GSR head and stock B20b block making 185whp on a civic.
Link:












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For any questions feel free to reach out to me via pm, email or www.Facebook.com/1funryd

Sean
Email: [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update:

The B20vtec project had a little snafu, the headgasket from the conversion started leaking oil.
After some testing it was determined the HG needed to be replaced.

Due to other projects and finances we decided to store the project for later date until I got a new HG and we had more time to address it.

Months later I got a new HG and then just over the past weekend the HG was replaced and the motor ran and seem to not leak.
I just renewed the tabs so it can be street legal again and then we shall get it on the road for more testing, but other than that the swap works flawlessly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
superbe avec la boîte de vitesses B20A ou B20b?
This is the B20b with a GSR head installed with my B16/18/20 swap mounts.

I edited the first post to include the previous videos leading up to video 3.
Enjoy!!!

All in all this swap cost me:
B20b with transmission and all accessories = $2800
B20vtec conversion = $1600
 

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I don't understand very sorry, the B20B is therefore with the B20B gearbox? and so with the gimbals to go to the 3g prelude hubs? thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't understand very sorry, the B20B is therefore with the B20B gearbox? and so with the gimbals to go to the 3g prelude hubs? thank you
If you go with my B20b swap kit, I provide you with a PDF document on installatino and all necessary parts after you purchase.

I do not provide much information due to my competitor will steal information like before.

But to answer your question, you need a B20b CRV motor and the B series S80 transmission and need to modify the shifter linkage to work.
All the rest of the swap parts and installation procedures are all documented.
 

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hi , no problem i understand.
i ask this because in france OEM gear box are not very solid.
Great Funryd ;)
Like your job !
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Little updates...B20vtec Lude.
*Replaced factory rims with some 17x7.5 wheels and new tires - 205/40/17
*Dropped off the new muffler to be welded on.
*Ran the motor and tested the AC to check if it leaked and it held its charge...so that system is solid.
*Installed new intake and battery relocation with jump posts on the firewall.

Next items to address will be the Ksport front shock replacements and rears as well. I picked up a local set from an Offerup sale for a real steal!!!
Also will be getting a new valve cover due to the one that's on there has a crack near the distributor.

Here is a video of it running...


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Little updates...B20vtec Lude.
*Replaced factory rims with some 17x7.5 wheels and new tires - 205/40/17
*Dropped off the new muffler to be welded on.
*Ran the motor and tested the AC to check if it leaked and it held its charge...so that system is solid.
*Installed new intake and battery relocation with jump posts on the firewall.

Next items to address will be the Ksport front shock replacements and rears as well. I picked up a local set from an Offerup sale for a real steal!!!
Also will be getting a new valve cover due to the one that's on there has a crack near the distributor.

Here is a video of it running...


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Not so shabby !
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another update: 9-14-20

So Dave(MustardCat) buffed the old faded paint out and it looks beautiful!!! Just had to share.....


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And added a little more red to the engine bay. I had to purchase a new valve cover due to the grey one had a crack in it that would require repair work that would not look so good.
But hey thanks to all the B series aftermarket world on ebay amazon and other online platforms I have a ton too choose from now!!!!

:giggle:

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Final body mods will be to add the lip kit on the lude, then get it tinted, install alarm, wire up an amp to the rear and this time I am going with a custom sub box that will be blended into the rear trunk to give me more space.

Also will be upgrading my speakers front, rear and front tweaters. Then I will be really moving onto interior mods like lighting, reupholster the front seats and rear to a more modern Si red stiched look.

For now the engine is done. I may turbo it, and slowly aquire parts for an AWD setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Was supposed to install my lip kit but did not have the bolts and fastners for them, so now I have to wait to get them.

Some pics of the day...

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Hopefully I should have this setup by next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dyno pulls to see where the build stands. This is just a baseline pull no tuning and just wanted to see where we are at.

Pretty disappointing numbers...😞

Dyno setup -

1. Pull #1 -

2. Pull #2 -

3. Pull #3 -

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As you can see these are not the numbers I was expecting.
So there were definitely some issues preventing us from making power.



The next day we went to work and guess what we found???!!!

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White lude 4WS - B18c1 GSR swap - Red lude 4WS - B20vtec swap

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Ok found out what's going on with the lude.
1. No vtec
2. No IAB's
3. No VSS
4. Basemap is not good enough for this build, need a proper tune.

Royce Johnson
did some digging and found out that the iab's were not closing due to being wired to the purge solenoid.
So while there was signal it was not constant.
Then we found that vtec was not kicking on, due to the rest if the harness for vtec was not completed.
Also found out that the bulb in the Check engine light on the cluster was not showing codes because whomever the previous owner was destroyed the bulb in the cluster instead if replacing in.
So we could not even check codes.
Whewwww.... many issues.
But Royce got them mostly figured out and also his iab's as well so we both benefited because he found out his iab solenoid was not responding correctly either, so that gave his B18 - GSR swap more umph...

Also found out that I have a bad leak on the headgasket and the oil sandwich adapter plate on the back of the motor, the headgasket leak is on the normal side that most of these builds seem to get, even a stock GSR motor can get them.
Apparently I got the wrong headgasket but I am doing more research on that before I jump and get a 3rd head gasket for the same leak.

So all in all while the dyno pull was a waste of time since I never even knew I had issues with the motor, getting them resolved for the most part, I need to replace the harness because my VSS is working intermittently, was a good next day.

Stay tuned for more progress, as I try to resolve the VSS and headgasket leak issue and also replace the tune with a better one and then get back on the dyno for another pull session.
 

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!990 Honda Prelude 2.0Si, 1989 Honda Prelude 2.0Si 4ws, 1990 Honda Prelude Si 4ws, etc.
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Looking great, 1funryd! Long time, no see! How's things?
 

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Just got ahold of couple non-running 3g's that I plan to make road worthy. My red one has a YUGE rust problem in the driver's side front strut tower. It's so bad that I'm not going to attempt to fix it, and the car will soon no longer be safe to drive on the highway. However, both of the rolling chassis I've picked up are in good shape, frame and suspension-wise, mine's a runner, and I have another engine on a stand in my garage that I can make work. It's gonna be a fun time doing this again! I can't wait! It's really good to see you're still here, Sean! I see MustardCat is still around too! I thought I was going to come back and no one I knew from the old days was around anymore! It's fantastic to see that's not true.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Just got ahold of couple non-running 3g's that I plan to make road worthy. My red one has a YUGE rust problem in the driver's side front strut tower. It's so bad that I'm not going to attempt to fix it, and the car will soon no longer be safe to drive on the highway. However, both of the rolling chassis I've picked up are in good shape, frame and suspension-wise, mine's a runner, and I have another engine on a stand in my garage that I can make work. It's gonna be a fun time doing this again! I can't wait! It's really good to see you're still here, Sean! I see MustardCat is still around too! I thought I was going to come back and no one I knew from the old days was around anymore! It's fantastic to see that's not true.
Yeah some of us OG's are too stubborn to let go of this chassis...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Little update:

The past weekend I took the lude out to stretch its legs and the VSS just started working, so I took advantage of the moment and opened up the throttle. Vtec and the iab kicked in and the car just pulled nicely.

I am still saving up for the new harness, so its not changed yet. But when the VSS works then the motor does open up and scream like most people are used to hearing.

I also had a compustar remote start and alarm installed so little by little I am getting things done.

Also figured out a power window problem, my driver side window switch was malfunctioning so while the driver side worked intermittently the passenger side stopped altogether.

I picked up a driver side switch, which is different than the 88-89 switch so make sure to not get that mixed up.
Now I got power windows back.
 
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