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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Guys

I have just joined the forum and would like to share my recently purchased 1998 BB6 prelude with 145 000km on the clock. Pictures to follow. I am from south Africa and would appreciate you guys sharing your wealth of knowledge with me.

Pictures to follow.
 

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Excuse the cell phone pics. These were taken at road worthy, passed with flying colors.

I will take some proper camera pics as soon as i get a chance.

To do list:

Bleed and clean brake and clutch lines
Oil change with Liqui Moly Synthoil Race Tech Gt1 and OEM filter
Flush power steering fluid
Neaten up rear silencer and de-cat
Cam belt later this year, was done 6 years ago on 90 000km at the Honda dealer

Any recommendations or advice?







 

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Nice super clean looking car, not even bumper sag in the front lol... low miles too.

If you wanted to, you could also change the transmission fluid then you would be caught up on all your fluids almost (since you will do your coolant later with the timing belt). I'd love to have an all stock low miles lude like that, I would keep it just the way it is.
 

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Ah beautiful. I love clean stock ludes. Just something about an unmolested honda.
 

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I never realized what those holes are for on the aft side of the valve cover, I now realize they are for the throttle cable for the RHD pedal location. Never seen it before.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Super clean when you buy that?




I say no to that oil and filter.
I purchased it trace toy from a friend who bought an s2000 and no longer had space for the lude. He previously bought it from a one owner collector and the car stood most of the time and only did long distance hence the condition. It was also owned in a very dry region and garage parked its entire life.

Why no to the oil and filter?


Nice super clean looking car, not even bumper sag in the front lol... low miles too.

If you wanted to, you could also change the transmission fluid then you would be caught up on all your fluids almost (since you will do your coolant later with the timing belt). I'd love to have an all stock low miles lude like that, I would keep it just the way it is.
You say low miles, with proper maintenance how long do they go for?

I plan on keeping it as oem as possible.

Ah beautiful. I love clean stock ludes. Just something about an unmolested honda.
Thanks dude!

I never realized what those holes are for on the aft side of the valve cover, I now realize they are for the throttle cable for the RHD pedal location. Never seen it before.

DSM belt! AH wtf!

Different steering wheels than US models.
DSM belt ah wtf ????
 

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I think he thinks it says Mitsubishi lol.

The h22 can last quite a while before rebuild but it seems they have a tendency to burn oil. Mine was running strong at 154k (with very tiny oil loss between changes) miles before I sucked water lol. I see no reason they couldn't last well over 200k miles easily if well maintained.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think he thinks it says Mitsubishi lol.

The h22 can last quite a while before rebuild but it seems they have a tendency to burn oil. Mine was running strong at 154k (with very tiny oil loss between changes) miles before I sucked water lol. I see no reason they couldn't last well over 200k miles easily if well maintained.
I don't think this one burns any oil. Perhaps it will with a lot of Vtec driving, however i seldom spend much time in lift. I see you quoting miles, however mine is in kilometers. 1.6 miles per 1 kilometer. So if yours was running strong at 154 miles then it't the equivalent of 246 000km. Mine still has quite some time before it will see that sort of mileage.

Can anyone advise me on the oil. i have a full can of Liqui Moly 10w60 Synthoil Race Tech that was given to me by my friend who sold the car to me. He used it in his previous oil change that was done 8000km ago and the car runs well and is quiet.

Any suggestions?
 

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Run a good 5w-30 oil in it and a Mann filter. Castrol has always been my go-to for lighter weights, and MANN filters can be had for dirt cheap from Rock Auto.

That 'race' oil is the wrong weight and will do more harm that good, there's no reason you should ever use 10W-60 in an H22. Your friend is kind of a bozo for using it in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Run a good 5w-30 oil in it and a Mann filter. Castrol has always been my go-to for lighter weights, and MANN filters can be had for dirt cheap from Rock Auto.

That 'race' oil is the wrong weight and will do more harm that good, there's no reason you should ever use 10W-60 in an H22. Your friend is kind of a bozo for using it in the past.
Thanks for the heads up, I went to the local liqui moly dealer today and they also said that the 10w60 is slightly too thick. I think the reason they used that oil was because the car had the oil change done at our local Subaru expert and I think that's the only reason they used it because they had it in stock.
 

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Super clean. I'd kill to have that in the US.
Tintin10,
Congrats on a superb example of " kept stock"
My thought on that Dealer that put in the wrong thick oil:
They were envious And Acted stupidly to harm the internals on your ride.
Shame on him.
 

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Super clean. I'd kill to have that in the US.
Tintin10,
Congrats on a superb example of " kept stock"
My thought on that Dealer that put in the wrong thick oil:
They were envious And Acted stupidly to harm the internals on your ride.
Shame on him.
Thanks very much.

Do you reckon any damage was done? 8000km done on this oil now. I will be sure to put in 5w30 soon!
 

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Why no to the oil and filter?
Wix makes a better filter than OE honda. Also sold as napa gold in the states. Great filtering with metal caps ,coil spring and 2 piece valves.
Another prelude i had came with a filter similar to how the OE honda filters are made. Not sure when it choked on itself but it didn't filter well after. I have that one cut open already and can cut a purolater. Have a gold and silver on the shelf. It's another combo valve filter. The silver may get used up for a real short flush with very lightly used HDDO that gets changed very often in another engine.

For the oil the main reason is the name of it and i've not seen a VOA but can take a guess. I'd go with 10w30 mobile 1 hm with the above filter. I have another engine that has been running on it since built in 04 or so and it seems to do it's job.

I do some weird things but i'd not put 10w60 in mine.

I may have missed it but that has around 90,000 miles. Timing and balance belts done? If not get at that.

And yeah I read the belt manufacturer wrong. My bad. I blame the booze and 3 stars.
 

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Wix makes a better filter than OE honda. Also sold as napa gold in the states. Great filtering with metal caps ,coil spring and 2 piece valves.
Another prelude i had came with a filter similar to how the OE honda filters are made. Not sure when it choked on itself but it didn't filter well after. I have that one cut open already and can cut a purolater. Have a gold and silver on the shelf. It's another combo valve filter. The silver may get used up for a real short flush with very lightly used HDDO that gets changed very often in another engine.

For the oil the main reason is the name of it and i've not seen a VOA but can take a guess. I'd go with 10w30 mobile 1 hm with the above filter. I have another engine that has been running on it since built in 04 or so and it seems to do it's job.

I do some weird things but i'd not put 10w60 in mine.

I may have missed it but that has around 90,000 miles. Timing and balance belts done? If not get at that.

And yeah I read the belt manufacturer wrong. My bad. I blame the booze and 3 stars.
Thanks for the info. Can you post the two filters side by side? When i do the next oil change (soon) i will put in a 10w30 Mobil or Liqu Moly.

The timing belts and tensioners were done at 92 000km at the Honda agent. it has done 53 000km since then, however it was done in 2009 so that is 6 years ago. It is on my to-do list. Honda wants a small fortune to do the job, so will have to find a trusted private guy to do it for me.

I would like to do gear box oil, power steering fluid and hydraulic fluids. Radiator water still has a perfect green colour, no signs of sludge or brown contaminated water. Oh and plugs also need to be done as i'm sure they have been in there for a while.

What else do you guys recommend? Thanks in advance.
 
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