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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The Car: 1997 5-speed Base

Original posting:

I was driving the car until about 2017 when the AC compressor and timing belt ate itself. I parked it in the garage since then and I've been collecting parts for a few years with the goal of rebuilding the car or at least sell them back to the community worst case. As of last year I slowly started the process. I want a strong, reliable, street build that is period correct. Taking inspiration from the thread below (I originally stumbled across on CB7). There are many parts combinations and luckily stumbled across a recent thread that more or less had the engine I'm aiming for. I also reach out to 4P Racing for recommendations for my application.

Engine is currently at the machine shop.


In honor of Cyborg's posting I'm going to copy his formatting! TBD items I have yet to consider.

Engine Electronics:
  • Hondata S300
  • P28 ECU (might send it off to KS tuned for The Black ECU)
  • The Black ECU w/ Hondata S300
  • Gauges: (TBD)
  • Coil on Plug kit (TBD)
  • Wire worx engine harness (TBD)
Intake:
  • Prelude Type S Intake
  • Professional Products 68mm Power throttle body for ITR, polished
  • H22a4 ported and polished intake manifold (still own, but changed to Euro R)
  • H22 Euro R with all of the Rosko Racing bits
  • Hondata thermal intake manifold gasket (TBD)
Fuel:
  • Walbro 255lph pump w/install kit
  • Fuel Rail (TBD)
  • Injectors & pigtails (TBD)
  • AEM pressure regulator (TBD)
Head:
  • Cometic head gasket
  • ARP head studs
  • Ferrea 6000 series all motor valves
  • Ferrea PAC HD valve spring kit and retainers
  • Ferrea bronze valve guides
  • '97-'01 spring-style LMA
  • Skunk2 Pro 1 cams (4P recommended based on my application)
  • Skunk2 Pro Black Series cam gears
  • Skunk2 cam seal
  • KS Tuned manual timing tensioner conversion
  • KS Tuned walk blocker
  • Refaced OEM rockers
  • Skunk2 H22 OEM replacement rockers
Block:
  • USDM H22A4
  • Sleeved block
  • Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons (considering 11.7, but minimal gains for more risk)
  • X-beam rods Manly H-beam rods (supply chain issue)
  • ARP main studs
  • ATI street damper
  • KS Tuned balance shaft delete kit
  • 4P Racing ported oil pump
  • KS Tuned billet oil pump gear
  • K-Tuned oil sensor adapter (TBD)
  • Skunk2 magnetic drain plug
  • Gates racing timing belt kit w/ water pump
Transmission:
  • Rebuilt T2W4 from Synchrotech Transmissions
Exhaust:
  • Mugen Header
  • Mugen full exhaust (would like to have something custom with a larger collector)
Interior:
  • JDM black chrome cluster rings
  • JDM digital climate control (not installed)
  • JDM SIR red door cards
  • JDM courtesy lights (not installed)
  • JDM door sills
  • JDM center console
  • EDM floor mats
  • JTC short shifter
  • Skunk2 weighted shift knob
  • Civic Type R shift boot
  • S2000 steering wheel
  • Prelude SH rear deck
  • Mugen pedals
  • OEM carbon fiber interior trim
  • OEM wood grain interior trim (not installed)
  • OEM Prelude Type S wood grain center stack trim (not installed)
  • OEM Prelude Type S climate control (not installed)
  • OEM Prelude Type S red dash bolt caps
  • OEM Prelude Type S black leather seat covers
Exterior:
  • Black Depo headlights (considering HID retro)
  • JDM mid-rise wing
  • OEM replicate lip kit
  • OEM Honeycomb grille
  • OEM Sunroof deflector
  • Civic EP3 red honda badges
  • JDM fender side markers
  • USDM fog lights
  • JDM fog lights (not installed)
  • JDM power folding mirrors
  • JDM window visors
Suspension:
  • Energy suspension bushings all around
  • MOOG replacements all around save ball joints
  • OEM ball joints
  • Suspension Techniques rear sway bar
  • OEM Type S front strut bar
  • OEM Type S top hats
  • Ground Control springs
  • Koni Yellows
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
More teardown pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Shortly after I pulled the motor over a year ago my wife decided to go into labor early! Needless to say that halted this work for a bit. I was still ordering parts and dropped my motor off at a local performance engine shop. I received the motor back about 2-3 weeks ago. It was at the machine shop about a year due to Covid supply chain issues, random vendor personnel supply chain issues, engine shop personnel turn over, and personal life. Now that things have settled down a bit and I have the motor back I can start this process again.

Below are pictures after the machine shop. I had them do any machine work, install the pistons, crank, bearings, and valves. The crank key slot was damaged prior to the machine shop. I am, however, a bit ticked because one of the pistons has scratch on the top that my fingernail can get caught in. They were brand new and I highly doubt a damaged one was sent to me.

The block was cleaned and I presumed hot tanked, but I didn't get a confirmation. It still looks a bit dirty to me, but way better than it did. I may consider a Cerakote for it. The car sat for a few years without being driven. Prior to that I had to fill my radiator with water while coming home from a road trip because a hose developed a small leak. I forgot about this and didn't flush the system so water and coolant sat in the system for many years. I think that is all of the rusty grime seen in the original post photos and on the thermostat housing below.

My original rocker arms look pretty beat up, but I don't know if they would pose an issue. I was about to send them to a company to resurface them and Skunk2 happened to release H22 rocker arm replacements so I bought a set of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
More post machine shop pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Head parts attached.
 

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Nice! Did 4P explain why they recommended the Pro 1 cams over the Pro 2s? I only chose the 2s because my forum research was saying they were a good match for the 11.5:1 compression. I'm no engine builder, though, and there's definitely such a thing as an engine having too much cam. I'm hoping to make a second attempt at getting mine tuned around March/April, it'll be fun to compare results. Bigger cams, but my H23A1 transmission gearing won't be doing me any favors for torque vs your T2W4.
 
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