[1funryd]

Whats a while? I have the money whenever you have the traction bar!

I have been getting inquiries about the traction bar so I am currently trying to source out fabrication shops local so that I do not have to deal with companies outside of WA State, so that I dont get shafted like I did with the last company.

 

[Toxxic]

great work man, realy turned her around. that motor and bay was a mess before. ill keep watching this one.

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

More pics of other stuff i have been in the process of restoring. Currently waiting on my KSport Suspension to arrive to install it.

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

Pictures of the final product of the engine bay.

 

[Ludasaurus]

Niccce! Great improvement.

 

[Prudz_lude]

The before and aftershot.... makes me wish I just did the same thing with mine (puts face in both hands) awesome work man.

 

[ScubaSteve82103]

Great work!

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

yeah its so worth it! It took me about 8 Months to get it all prepped and done but because i also have a business to run so i did not dedicate too much time a day to it. It can easily be done in a few months with all the right parts available.

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

Technafit Brake hoses are in. Got them for $115 plus shipping and where here super fast from HorsePowerFreaks . com. Here is the difference. I love how the hoses have the head where the line attaches to, made to turn without the whole hose turning. So they are 100% easier and safer to install and decreases the chance of cross-threading since you can spin the female and male fittings to attach them together. The quality also looks top notch. They have them in black, blue, yellow, silver and i think that was it. Check them out yourself.

The rear ones.

One front one installed

 

[Prudz_lude]

Thanks for posting those, I was looking at my old crusty lines today and thinking of picking up another set of SS like my old lude. I'll give these a try

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

^^^^^cant say how good they feel because my car still under construction, but the quality looks great.

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

And we are off whit the rear wheel wells. Upper and lower ball joints will be replaced, Ksport suspension will be installed when it arrives, Sway bar bushings will be replaced, Everything will be prepped and restore to new. New Rotors, calipers, brake pads, and later Rims!

Before

After pictures will come later.

Rear Tokicos removed. I have a set of 4 with about 25K miles on them for sale at $350 OBO. Hit me up if your interested.

 

[FuzzyGreen]

Question about ALB removal: Is it possible to remove the ALB without taking out the engine or intake manifold? I have my complete donor prelude without ALB so I can take everything I need from it, but I really don't want to pull two motors in order to swap it out. Is there a write up somewhere on this process?

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

Question about ALB removal: Is it possible to remove the ALB without taking out the engine or intake manifold? I have my complete donor prelude without ALB so I can take everything I need from it, but I really don't want to pull two motors in order to swap it out. Is there a write up somewhere on this process?

Well this is what i did. To remove the non-ALB Brake lines, yes it is possible to do it without removing the IM or engine. I did it in the scorching hot sun and it took me about 45 minutes to an hour. You will think that it is impossible because you will get really frustrated. But its very possible.

What i did was detach all the lines from the car with our ALB, including the shell, master cylinder, Prop valve and just everywhere they are attached to. This will allow them all to swivel around so you can get them out. it is a pain and i must give you a heads up, but with the will, it is possible. Be careful not to kink the lines as it is very easy, specially because there will be times where you will have to put some pressure on some lines to be able to free them up.

Now to install them, i can not say the same, because my engine was out when i installed mine. But worst case scenario, you will just have to pull one engine not two.

You ask if its possible to removed them without removing the IM and Engine------The Answer is Yes

You ask if its possible to install them without removing the Im and Engine----------The answer is I dont really know.

Hope this helps out. Also there is a write up on www.prelude3g.com under "Suspension" go down and you will see the "Removing ALB" Keep in mind this write up says its impossible to remove the old brake lines without removing the engine, but im living proof that its not.

 

[FuzzyGreen]

Thanks a bunch. It may not be worth the effort for me to do the ALB conversion unless I'm pulling the engine for other reasons (like dropping in an H22). So I may just wait until I different point in time for it.

I also wanted to thank you for this build write up. Your work done on the mud flaps and wheel wells is a great inspiration to me on my restoration. When I pull the suspension apart for my 4ws conversion and damper/coil over change, I will copy your work there and do the same. I don't think people realize what a dramatic change it makes on the looks of the car having clean sprayed wheel wells and mud flaps.

 

[ReyKe]

nice work man keep up the effort I'm tagging this thread to keep updated

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

@FuzzyGreen - Yeah its the little things that make a difference. Many people will go with really nice rims, not realizing that the wheel wells take away on how nice the rims are. Mine was all apart so i figured why not. They look so much better now.

My Rule of thumb is "put everything back on looking better than how it came off"

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

Be careful with your 3rd Gen, they bite back if your not gentle with them. Im sorry 3rd Gen, promise to be more gentle

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

So the rear wheel wells are almost ready for prep work. Here is some pictures.

First i like to show people how easy it is to dislocate the ball joints to remove your knuckle. Use this little handy tool. You can rent it at AutoZone or any auto parts store. Make sure that when you install it, only turn the tool until you feel it get tight, after that simply tap on the surrounding piece to help the ball joint release, then turn a bit more. Keep doing this until the ball joint releases. Some ball joints are in there really good, and if you keep turning the tool and expect it to do all the job, it will collapse the hole where your pin goes to hold your castle nut. Its a weak point so dont make that mistake.

You can see my ball joints really need replacement so all of them will be replaced.

Here is my knuckles removed and my wheel well. Soon it will all be restored

 

[AMOG4LIFE]

So i wanted to post how to remove the rear lower ball joint from the actual knuckle. These pictures simply show what i did and how i removed them.

First you want to remove the wheel bearing grease cap in the back because the ball joint wont clear it when you push it out. The way i did it was to simply made an indention at the top, right before the cap goes flat (see pic) and that allowed the lip of the cap to come up just a bit, enough to pry it open.

Next, i know there is a tool for this ring but i did not have one big enough so this is how i took off the ring that holds the ball joint. I just got two small hooks and played with it till they came off. I was not afraid to damage anything since everything was getting replaced anyways.

Then once the cap and the ring were removed, i went to town with a hammer. I remove the grease boot to have access to the lower part of the ball joint, and that allowed me to be able to hit it better and it came out a lot faster, i also hit the stud a few times to tap it out.

And finally the lower ball joint is out