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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking about switching to 0w-30 motor oil with my next oil change. I'm not sure if I should or not though since our cars don't have that in the manual for one of the weights of oil recommended. The site for the oil company says their 0w-30 oil is a replacement for applications that call for 10w-30 though.

I was just curious what the advantages and disadvantages would be to using a 0w oil. does anyone run it in their cars? Is there any reason I should not run it?

Also I will probably do an oil flush when I change it. Some people say the gunk in there might be preventing oil leaks and switching to full synthetic or flushing the engine can cause leaks. I think my engine has low enough millage that I can get away with it and it might be beneficial.

Edit: this is the stuff I was thinking of using http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx

Thanks
BaseEight
 

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I personally hate amsoil and wouldnt reccoment it, to many bad expieriences with them. I like royal purple, but amsoil synchromesh is good
 

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why are u using 0 30 is ur motor using alot of oil or blowing oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not using 0w30 yet I was just wondering what the benefits were and what the downsides are. My car isn't burning or leaking now, since I changed the valve cover gasket. Since I am not going through oil anymore I was thinking about switching to a higher quality oil.
 

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It would be really thin (the lower the number the thinner the oil), which would be good for colder climates. As oil gets cold it gets thicker, and vice versa. My sister lives in Jackson, Wyoming and they run Mobile-1 5w30. My brother in law says it pours out of the bottle just about the same weither it's 15 degrees outside or 70. I live in Houston, and if it's not 100 outside, it feels like it is. I run Castrol 20w50 in my freshly broken in A20. Of course I let it warm up before I drive it anywhere. BTW I broke the motor in with Castrol 5w30 for the first 500 miles.
 

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Amsoil is good oil but it's really expensive. And unless you plan on drastically extending your oil change intervals there isn't much reason to use it. You'll be just as well off with a cheaper synthetic like Mobil 1. And even with that, you're wasting your money if you change it as often as regular oil.

If you live in a colder climate you could use 0W30 and you *might* get slightly better fuel mileage due to the engine not having to work quite as hard pushing the oil around. I would guess not though.

Try 10W30 synthetic and see how it goes. If it leaks or starts consuming more oil switch to 10W40. If it still leaks you could try 15W50 but that might be sluggish in the winter.

C|
 

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So let me get this straight.

You have a 20 yr old 2nd gen with 100,000 + miles on it, it runs fine and doesnt have any oil/loss/burning issues.

And now you want to change things up? May I ask why?

I have run Castrol 5w30/20 in all my Hondas/Acuras and they still run like champs. I have always changed the oil at the 4-5k mark and used the OEM filter. Never had a problem.

And to the poster who said he warms up his car before driving it.. I have heard that warming it up for anything more than 10-20 secs is a waste.
 

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And to the poster who said he warms up his car before driving it.. I have heard that warming it up for anything more than 10-20 secs is a waste.
But look he's using 20w50 oil... that's going to be way too thick when cold for a Honda, so it's a good idea to get some warmth in it.
 

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And to the poster who said he warms up his car before driving it.. I have heard that warming it up for anything more than 10-20 secs is a waste.
I thought that it was a good idea to get your engine to full operating temperature before running it at WOT. The Honda manuals even say NEVER try to extract full power from the engine while it's cold. Your valve springs are more brittle, and everything in the engine is not expanded to operating levels.

I'm sure it doesn't hurt to drive it nice and easy down the road right away. But if you live on a nice, long, twisty, 3 mile rural road like I do, you want to have the car to full operating temperature before you go romping on it. :D
 

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It only takes a few seconds for oil to be pumped to the top end of the motor. So, with a daily driver, like my accord, I just start it and go. (unless it's a cold start) But, my prelude is different. I run thick oil because of the turbo, and the high temp climate I live in. When I first start it, oil pressure is around 60psi at idle (800 RPM). After warming up pressure drops to 30 psi at idle and goes up around 50 psi under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Cool, thanks for the info. I guess I'll stick with 10w30 and possibly switch to 5w30 in the winter, it does get pretty cold here. I'll have to price out mobil 1 vs. amsoil or royal purple. The nice thing about our cars is they don't take much oil, it would be a different story if i were putting it in my truck though, that thing takes about 8 quarts.

Thanks again
BaseEight
 

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I thought that it was a good idea to get your engine to full operating temperature before running it at WOT. The Honda manuals even say NEVER try to extract full power from the engine while it's cold. Your valve springs are more brittle, and everything in the engine is not expanded to operating levels.

I'm sure it doesn't hurt to drive it nice and easy down the road right away. But if you live on a nice, long, twisty, 3 mile rural road like I do, you want to have the car to full operating temperature before you go romping on it. :D
Agreed 100%. Im in NY and we get our fair share of cold weather. Nobody but a GM owner would go WOT on a cold car. Im just saying that idling is horrible for your car, regardless of the temp. Start the lude, get her fluids flowing, and then gradually increase your rpms and mph as she warms up.

And as far as a twisty 3 mile road.. Im jealous!!
 

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The nice thing about our cars is they don't take much oil, it would be a different story if i were putting it in my truck though, that thing takes about 8 quarts.
You are lucky. My truck takes 4.2 gallons for each oil change.
 
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