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Old 11-13-2006, 03:20 PM   #1
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Axle Removal **write-up**Updated 1-27-07

Update to the thread is a video for a Honda Accord that is the same procedure as our ludes, the differences will the way the tie rod is sitting but everything this guy does is the correct way to replace an Axle in our cars and most other cars as well.


Replacing an Axle in a Honda: http://yootuubee.com/video/WSdSmH2xa...)-honda-accord



Here is another write-up organized by me through the help of other Luders experience. These pictures are for illustration only and are not an actual Lude, but still the same procedure.

I will update pictures and pertant information as I come across it.

And since this is related to "Lower Ball Joint Removal" here is the link to that thread:
Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joint *Write-Up*

I would also like to add this link for those who want to rebuild their - CV Joints -

Half Shaft - CV Joint Repack and Boot Replace

This write up is very informative and helpful to the do it yourselfer's out there.




**Write-Up**

1 Remove tire(s) - Lug wrench
2 Remove axle nut (have fun! easier with tire on ground and center cap removed for axle socket to fit through) 36MM for 90-91 or 32MM for 88-89

Make sure to take a chizzle or flat head screwdriver to bend out that little notch that is indented toward the groove on the axle. You will see what I mean when you take off your wheel cap.

(please note that depending on when and who changed out the axle last, the axle nut might differ in size - 32-36, so please check this before doing anything as to not waste time.)


You will need these tools, but an impact gun is always the easiest way to go.



3 after jacking car back up, remove lower control arm balljoint nut - 17mm?
4 use tie rod end puller to undo lower ball joint (careful of threads!)

(This is also a ball joint puller, it is safer so as not to damage the ball joints, but if you are replacing the whole ball joint as well, you can use a pickle fork as well. Please remember this for illustration and is to show you how to use this tool, this is not the actual ball joint you are going to remove at this time, unless you decide to do it at the same time since you will have everything off.)


Pickle Fork Method, this is the acutual ball joint that will be removed while removing the axle.




5 undo bottom of shock from lower control arm - 17 mm...2 two of them since the bolt will spin - remove that bolt




6 separate the knuckle and slide it out the way while the axle slides out of it then pry the tranny side with a large flathead or prybar.
Please note, that you might have to take a solid peice of metal like the back end of a chizzle, and use it to pound out the axle if it does not come out easy.
When you start pushing it out it will look like the picture below, you will need to push it out, you might need a pry bar to help relieve tension on the supension to get out, but it will come out, so just keep working at it.





Do not over pound it if it is not moving as you will start to damage that end of the axle.


I hope this helps out everyone!


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Last edited by 1funryd; 03-16-2013 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:26 AM   #2
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1funryd,

Hafa Adai’ Bro, great write-up on the axle shaft(s) R&R. Autozone is a prime source for renting tools that makes this job easier, too. Just be aware that the use of a pickle fork sometimes damages tie rod and ball joint grease boot(s) beyond usefulness. So if anyone is expecting to reuse the grease boot(s) for either tie rod or ball joint, do not damage the grease boot(s). Grease is the lubrication that makes our components survive as long as they do. The tool rental is not expensive and you get some money back when you return the tool undamaged, at least this has been Autozone’s policy from since forever.
Great Job on this write-up, Bro. The community needs this kind of procedural knowledge shared and often. The inclusion of pictures really helps your discussion points. I am glad to assist if called on.

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Old 11-17-2006, 10:09 AM   #3
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I love to see this type of help!

Thanks for taking that time!
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:41 PM   #4
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i know i'll prolly get flammed for this... but if you whack the lower control arm on the side, right next to where the ball joint goes in, as long as the nut and cotter pin is out, the ball joint will pop out... don't destroy the control arm, but if you have no puller or pickle fork... it works well, and is much faster...
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:54 PM   #5
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i know i'll prolly get flammed for this... but if you whack the lower control arm on the side, right next to where the ball joint goes in, as long as the nut and cotter pin is out, the ball joint will pop out... don't destroy the control arm, but if you have no puller or pickle fork... it works well, and is much faster...
Nope..that is the classic way to get a "tapered pin" joint apart. The problem is that you really need to whack the joint at more than one spot, and that can be a problem.

I must add this... When you reattach the strut fork to the lower control arm don't tighten the long bolt (grease that puppy) and nut all the way until the weight of the car moves the arm to normal ride height. In other words put a jack under the outer ball joint and jack it up till the car begins to move or run the car up onto ramps. If you tighten this bolt with the suspension hanging, you will preload the rubber bushing which is ungood. Ditto for the inside lower control arm bushing..but I'm not sure why that was removed for this job.
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Last edited by dano; 11-17-2006 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:38 PM   #6
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Dano is correct. You always must torque suspension fasteners with the wheels on and with the car resting on the floor. Of course, doing it this way is often a real pain in the ass, so you can simulate the car being in a relaxed position by jacking up underneath the lower ball joint just as Dano described. Much easier.



I have to draw attention to this picture. In school last year, we learned that you're really not supposed to let the axle hang all willy nilly. Of course, if you're replacing it, it doesn't matter, but normally, if you're reusing the axle, you should support the outboard end of it with mechanic's wire or with a rope or something. Otherwise, I would think that allowing the axle to hang in such an extreme position might put unnecessary stress on the inboard joint, and in the big picture, this could shorten its life.

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Old 11-17-2006, 10:27 PM   #7
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Really great write-up. Thanks for the hard work! I'm currently STUCK at the damper fork bolt. T hat bitch is a BITCh to get out lol
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:40 PM   #8
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Bump for those looking!!
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:51 PM   #9
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:24 PM   #10
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(((THUMBS UP)))..once agian great work! ((pats you on the back))
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Old 11-30-2006, 05:25 AM   #11
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now how about rebuilding them getting them out is the easy part
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Old 11-30-2006, 07:35 AM   #12
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Rebuilding is pretty much limited to re-packing with grease and putting on new boots. Pretty simple. Unless your axel had a torn boot and you caught it right away, you are probably better off with a rebuilt axel for some place like PEP BOYS.
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Old 11-30-2006, 10:22 AM   #13
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Why go to the trouble and extra time of removing the lower arm?
It's not needed and I never do that unless I'm removing it anyway.
you can leave the lower arm in place and just remove the damper fork from the arm and damper.
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Old 01-27-2007, 02:01 PM   #14
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Exclamation Update on the front page!

Check the front page for an updated pic of the axle

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Old 01-27-2007, 03:37 PM   #15
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Don't remove the lower control arm bushing, only the ball joint.
Don't remove the tie rod end, either.

Only the balljoint at the end of the lower control arm, and the shock mount.

You can then lift the hub up out of the lower control arm (once it's broken free) and push it to the side once you have the axle out.

No need to remove the upper end of the shock mount, either.
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Old 05-17-2009, 10:14 AM   #16
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Trying to get that fork bolt out. It's really pissing me off. I broke two screwdriver tips off in trying to bend the notch out, so they're stuck in there. Also, I was going to track down an impact wrench to have at it. I tried a 32 mm socket, and it looks like it is just chipping the bolt. Is there anyway that it could be smaller than this or is that out of the question? Does anyone have any other suggestions for me?
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Old 05-17-2009, 11:55 AM   #17
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u must have alot of rust
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:00 PM   #18
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If you had to cut it, is the bolt you would be screwing up in the process be from the axle, or is it something connected to the HUB? In other words, what does that nut connect to: the axle I am replacing, or something I need to be functional afterwards?
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:59 PM   #19
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Took my Dremmel to it with a cut off tool.

That's right you son of a bitch, get the fuck off my car.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:23 PM   #20
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I still need to buy a dremmel! I hear they are one of the best tools you can own.
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:50 PM   #21
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How do you get the axle back into the tranny? That metal ring on the axle on that side seems to be preventing it. What is the purpose of this ring besides keeping you from fixing your car?
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:15 PM   #22
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How do you get the axle back into the tranny? That metal ring on the axle on that side seems to be preventing it. What is the purpose of this ring besides keeping you from fixing your car?
Use a rubber malet and bang the axle into the tranny from the outer spline, not too hard though, just enough force to pop it back in.
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:50 PM   #23
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I got Humpty Dumpty back together again. The braintrusts that work at my local Autozone sold me the wrong axle. That's why it didn't just "snap" into place.
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Old 08-27-2010, 02:35 PM   #24
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I got Humpty Dumpty back together again. The braintrusts that work at my local Autozone sold me the wrong axle. That's why it didn't just "snap" into place.
half of those guys dont even know what kind of oil to put in a manual transmission.
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:20 PM   #25
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half of those guys dont even know what kind of oil to put in a manual transmission.
Lol.....yup....I remember one of those morons told me it was ok to used Automatic Transmission fluid in my MT. LMAO! What an idiot. Hahahahahah..He was dead serious too. I told him that was not true and that it would cause serious problems to a MT. Fuken Vatozone!!!!!!!!!!
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