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Old 04-11-2006, 03:43 AM   #1
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Talking 3rd gen Tubro Thread

**Update: 9-26-2010

As of June 2010, I am now a Cometic Gasket dealer due to me bringing them our 3rd gen community.

It is has been done and researched that our OEM headgaskets cannot handle the pressures of turbocharging which leads to blown headgaskets and engine damage.

It is necessary to install an MLS(multi-layer steel) gasket when turbocharging a B20/21 motor.

I sell the gaskets for:

1. 3 layer OEM specs: $94.00 + shipping
2. 5 layer MLS gasekt: $120 + shipping

Details can be found in my forum:
FS: Cometic MLS Gaskets

B20a5 MLS Gasket:

B21a1 MLS HeadGasket:

I wrote this thread to help out all those who want to go Boosted or Tune their 3rd Gen Ludes. I noticed alot of new people are starting to ask about Boosting right off the start, so I took it upon myself to help out all the NooBies and try to cut down on the massive overposting of others saying "Search!!!!". I hope this points you in the right direction. I make no warranty's nor guarantee's, this is a collection of information I collected from the site and other experienced Boosted 3rd Gen'ers who all have done their homework and to whom I Publicly give Thanks and Credit too for all your input and wealth of knowledge.

I will continue to update and edit this thread as necessary as new information comes to surface in the Tuning and Boosting Dept for 3rd Gener's.

In order to Tune 3rd Gens for Boosted applications and or just tune for better performance we need to upgrade to OBD1. This thread is put together from alot of the material and experience from those who have done it before us and will continue to after this post.
To date there is no one chipping our stock ECU's for performance, and it will be easier to do the conversion versus trying to Chip it and Tune it.

*Note: 88-89 ECU's are not interchangeble with 90-91 ECU's.

Our cars have these ECU's from the factory:

ECU Tuning: - **The PK3 B21a1 ecu is not chippable**
90-91 Si preludes with the B21 came OBD1 and a Pk3 ECU.
*Note: You 90-91 Prelude guys do not need the OBD1 Conversion Harness as your car is wired to plug straight into any OBD1 ECU.

88-89 Si and 90-91 2.0Si preludes with the b20a5 came OBD0 with a PK2 ECU.

Originally posted by Bobnova - Having read the entire thing (took a while :P) i would add one (1) thing, all b20a5 motors are obd0, regardless of year, while all b21 motors are obd1.

Edit: 10-07-2010 Custom Forged Pistons

Ok since many members are looking to boost and have not read the other boosted threads I decided to post up who supports our B20/21 motors for Forged Pistons. Rods are not made for us, but it is understood and researched the H23 rods either OEM or forged are a bolt in solution to upgrade for the B20/21 motors.

For Weisco Forged Pistons and rings go to: www.raceeng.com

The sell and custom order Weisco piston and rings specific to the B20/21 motors.

1. We must convert from OBD0 to OBD1 which makes our cars use any 92 -95 Honda ECU's.
a. We need an OBD1 ECU - PR4, P28, or PO6
b. A 4 wire O2 Sensor
c. Conversion Harness

2. Have the ECU chipped so it can be programmed for Tuning. For those of you who do not know what an ECU is clik here: http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Library/ECU.

3. Here is another option for ECU's, thank you to Bobnova for his contribution to this item. It is a Do It Your Self ECU with Tuning options out the AssMe SomeQuestions! You can buy the Kit for $140.00 and build it yourself or you may buy it pre-assembled for a little more from the site I have put down on this thread. Make sure to read up on it though, because it is a lot more difficult to set up, but once you understand it, it will be the best thing you probably ever changed on the Lude as per the customers who have already bought it. Here is the Link:


*Please not that Bobnova recommends you purchase the kit with the V3.0 Board, for Megasquirt N Spark - Extra, or Megasquirt2

Well I will let you read what he had to say about the unit:
*Quote from Bobnova:

I had problems with mine, mainly because i didn't buy the new (v3) board that can read the TDC sensor directly, i did get it to work though.

It ran about the same, really, the stock ecu is well tuned for stock.

The timing map you have to make yourself, i dug up an integra map and put the values off it into megasquirt for a basemap, for fuel it will generate one for you based on engine displacement/rpm/hp/torque, and it's generally quite accurate for n/a.

It is HIGHLY adviced that you get a basic wideband sensor, the $200 in-line controller ones work well, and megasquirt can read them directly.

To wire it in i bought a prelude ecu ($10) and hacked the guts out of it, then stuck the megasquirt into the case, and made a obd0-MS conversion harness using the connectors, it took a while, but wasn't hard.

Generally speaking, it goes on with some, but not much, difficulty. Mine was rather of an odd case, there is another guy on the msefi boards with an integra (same damn sensors), and his went right on no problem.

Here is a picture of it:

Here is the Do It Yourself Kit:


Or you can chip it yourself for the DIY's here is the link: http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/Library/IntroductionToECUChipping

3. We need to use an obd1 civic or integra ecu, meaning it must come from a 92-95. p06's are the most common and the most suitable for our applications, but p75's and pr4's can be used as well. if you use a pr4 just be sure it is a 92-93 pr4 (obd1), because 90-91 integra's did have an obd0 version of pr4 which will not work.

4. Buy a OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness - $125.00.



Price: $125.00 + shipping

5. You will need a 4 wire O2 Sensor for the converison as well so the ECU will understand what it needs to do. You can go to the junk yard and cut off the factory connector so that you can wire it up to the Conversion harness, then just plug straight to the 4 wire O2 sensor. Here is picture of what I did to get mine:

a. The first connector is the harness for the ECU.
b. The second is obviously the 4 wire O2 sensor itself. I got the connector and O2 sensor at the junkyard for $20.00.

and so forth...By the way some of the these links also sell the ECU's you will need to do the conversion.

Here is what the OBD1 Plugs look like:

Click on link to see bigger picture.

Or do the pinout yourself and make your own harness for free here is the the pinout: I would like to personally Thank, Lud4ever for giving his updated pinout to the forum .
OBD1->OBD0 - Function
A01 ->A01 - #1 injector
A02 ->A07 - #4 injector
A03 ->A03 - #2 injector
A04 ->N/C - VTEC solenoid Valve
A05 ->A05 - #3 injector
A06 ->N/C - O2 Sensor Heater Control
A07 ->A12&A14 - Fuel Pump Relay (FLR1)
A08 ->N/C - Fuel Pump Relay (FLR2)
A09 ->A11 - EACV
A10 ->N/C - EGR solenoid valve
A11 ->N/C -
A12 ->N/C -
A13 ->B06 - Check Engine Light (MIL)
A14 ->N/C -
A15 ->B01 - A/C Clutch Relay
A16 ->N/C -
A17 ->N/C -
A18 ->N/C -
A19 ->N/C -
A20 ->B02 - Purge Control Solenoid Valve
A21 ->B15&B17 - Igniter Power Source (IGP1)
A22 ->N/C - Igniter Power Source (IGP2)
A23 ->A02 - Power Ground (PG1)
A24 ->A04 - Power Ground (PG2)
A25 ->A13 - Main Relay IGP1 (IG Power)
A26 ->A18 - Logic Ground (LG1)
A27 ->N/C -
B01 ->A15 - Power Source (IGP2)
B02 ->A16 - Logic Ground (LG2)
B03 ->N/C -
B04 ->N/C - Service Check Connector
B05 ->B08 - A/C Switch (ACS)
B06 ->N/C -
B07 ->N/C -
B08 ->N/C - P/S Pressure Switch
B09 ->B13 - Starter Switch Signal (STS)
B10 ->B16 - Speed Sensor
B11 ->C01 - CYL Sensor
B12 ->C02 - CYL Sensor
B13 ->C03 - TDC Sensor
B14 ->C04 - TDC Sensor
B15 ->B10 - Crank Angle Sensor
B16 ->B12 - Crank Sensor
D01 ->A17 - Back Up Fuse
D02 ->N/C - Brake Switch
D03 ->N/C - Knock Sensor
D04 ->N/C- Service Check & Ignition Timing Connector (SCS)
D05 ->N/C -
D06 ->N/C - VTEC Pressure Switch
D07 ->N/C - Data Link Connector
D08 ->N/C -
D09 ->B14 - Alternator
D10 ->B19 -
D11 ->C07 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
D12 ->N/C -
D13 ->C06 - TW Sensor
D14 ->C16 - O2 Sensor
D15 ->C05 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor
D16 ->N/C -
D17 ->C11 - MAP Sensor
D18 ->N/C -
D19 ->C15 - Sensor Voltage (VCC1)
D20 ->C13 - Sensor Voltage (VCC2)
D21 ->C14 - Sensor Ground (SG1)
D22 ->C12 - Sensor Ground (SG2)

you have to short pin D04 to GND in order to check your CEL codes. btw, this harness has produced no codes in my car, other than the one i was getting before i even installed it.. damn TPS..

*Update* 4-18-07 from motoxxxman

the stock ecu freaks out at anything over 1psi, cuz it is not programmed to read boost. a chipped ecu that is altered to be able to read the stock map sensor's boost capability will work fine to about 11psi, then will freak out the same as stock for anything over 11.2psi. if you get a larger map sensor and change the ecu to be able to read that sensor, it will work fine to whatever the ecu and map sensor are capable of reading.

what i mean by the ecu freaking out is one of two things:
-blown motor
-wickedly low rev limit and solid CEL for map sensor, and craploads of fuel being dumped in constantly making the car barely able to run at all from flooding it so bad.

for injectors, check out precision injectors, or rc engineering injectors
for map sensor, check out any GM stock map sensor. there are 1.75 bar (equal to our stock ones), 2 bar, 2.5 bar, and 3 bar. i think there might be some others too, but those are the common ones. most people use the 3bar when they plan to go over 10psi. 3 bar is good to 29.4psi of boost.

to determine what boost each sensor can read, take the bar value, subtract one, and multiply that by 14.7.

this is because 1 bar = 14.7psi, and 0 bar = 0 air pressure, which means absolute vacuum. 1 bar = 14.7psi = ambient pressure at sea level.

After all that is done Make Sure to either have the car towed, or with one of motoxxxman's basemaps you can drive it, to the closest dyno shop, and have them TUNE the car to get the desired Horse Power!!!
Also remember that dyno tuning is usually only full throttle tuning. 99% of the driving done in any given car will be at part throttle, so that is the most important aspect of the tune, especially if it is your daily driver. so for part throttle tuning you will also need to get what is called a "street tune" which is where the tuner tunes the car under any and all conditions it can and will see when driven on the street. ie: all rpms and all throttle positions and all manifold pressures.
**PLEASE REMEMBER - TUNING IS YOUR FRIEND!!!** That has been stressed to me countless times and I will pass this very vital information onto you!

To answer all those noobie questions, it has been established that All 3rd Gens have the OBD1 compliant Distributor, so we do not need to buy a new one.

This method is the most highly recommended modifcation for Boosting and Tuning. It is possible to Boost with the old FMU route but it must be done right and it is almost the same cost to do.

*Since we are talking about Tuning, we might as well cover TurboCharging and the Parts for Boosting, here are the choices as of the date of this write up*:

1. Have a local shop custom make a Exhaust Manifold and Downpipe to your specific needs.

2. Edit: no longer supporting 3rd gens

3. Ebay for alot of miscellanous parts like Turbo's, Guages, MAP Bypass links, Oilfeed and return kits, used ECU's, Conversion Harnesses(I recommend emailing the Harness sellers to ask if they can build you one with the pinout above), and high flow injectors. And so forth.

4. Here is a picture of the www.LSDMotorsports.com T-25 Manifold and Downpipe*note: LSDMotorsports no longer supports 3rd gens - this is for reference only)

And this is what it looks like once installed:

These parts are made of all stainless steel metal and are of good quality craftmanship. You have other options, I am only using my setup as an example for all you wanting to know - parts etc..

I decided to upgrade my Radiator fans for more room and better cooling before I put in the Turbo here are the pictures and a little write up:

Ok here is some pics to give you an idea of what I have to contend with:

So what do you think?? Should I pull the upper hose and just let some leak or what??

*Update ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, it took me a while(2 1/2 hours), but I got it done and it works great! Definitley pulls alot of air and is much quiter! So, here are the pics:

I like alot!!!!!!! I recommend everyone do the upgrade, it free's up alot of room for future upgrades .

Here is what to do:

1. You have to unbolt 4 bolts on the top of the fans, each one has two on top and then three at the bottom of the radiator. Two of the bolts are just a untighten situation and the third is a complete removal.

If you have A/C like me, you will need to unbolt two of the A/C lines from the smaller fan, and unbolt the little funnel looking thing that shoots air to the Altenator.
If you are an Automatic like me, you will need to unbolt the two lines on either side of the green and white O2 sensor connectors. You will need to be able to move them when it comes time to remove the fans.

2. You will want to get a 90 degree angled pick(they are cheap tools you can get at any local hardware store) to take off the connectors, which are way down in the engine bay so get ready to squeeze your way thru.

3. Once you have the connectors off and all the bolts undone, you will need to remove the top Radiator hose and overflow hose and bend them away and put a rag on the top hose as not to loose to much coolant, the little one will just bend away and keep it facing up.

4. Now start with the bigger fan first and just wiggle it back and forth and make sure to look at every angle as it is coming up because it will snag on something and stop coming out. Then once you have the main fan out, start to work out the smaller fan toward the left where the bigger fan was and then pull it out the same way.

Walla!!!! there out. And now just install the fans that will replace them. Oh yeah!! Make sure to cut off the OEM connector from the OEM fan so you can butt connect them to the upgraded fans.

The Blue/Black wires on the OEM fans are (+) and the Black wires are (-). Just use butt connectors and I recommend getting some of that heat shrink tubing to cover them after they are connected.

And just an added note: You can actually fit two 12" fans side by side(as you can see from my pictures), there was more room than I thought when I ordered these two. It does not hurt to have bigger fans pulling the same amount of air or even go with a 14" and a 12", I will probably end up changing up later on, but this will do for now.

FYI: The A/C line that you see going over the upper radiator hose is not suppose to do that, I removed the hose again after I took pics and placed it back under the hose where it was suppose to be in the first place.(oops!!)


I bought it off of ebay from this ebay store called: whiteperformance1 - http://stores.ebay.com/whiteperformance1

They sell alot of these fans and are pretty damn cheap. I was quite surprised when I saw there price. I called them because when I wanted to order them the sold all there fans on ebay, at least the ones I wanted to buy.

The total for both:
12" - $23.95
10" - $20.95
Shipping - $13.95
Total was: $58.85shipped.

Whiteperformance1 - warranties these fans for (3) years!!!

You can't even get one flexlite fan or slimline fan for that price!

Here are my Injectors for my setup 450cc

Now while we are on the subject of Fuel, you will need to upgrade the Stock Fuel Pump. Here are the two options you have:

1. TRE-341 255 LPH Fuel Pump fits these cars: 88-96 Honda Prelude

This is the link to the wbsite:


255 LPH Fuel Pump:
Our Discount Price:
$69.99 + $10.00s/h

2. Walbro 255lph Fuel pumps are one the main pumps that alot of boosted cars you to give them more fuel. You can find these almost anywhere on the net especially on ebay. I would give you a link, but I am sure you can pull this up on ebay fairly easily without my help.

On the average these fuel pumps are $99.00 + s/h.
As for the model number for which pump to use I have learned that you can use these pumps from these cars:

92 - 96 Prelude - GSS-341
90 - 93 Accord - GSS341
88 - 91 CRX - GSS-342


*And for the record, my setup will be:
T-25 DSM Turbo w/7psi wastegated, www.LSDMotorsports.com - Manifold & Downpipe, PR4 ECU(chipped and Tuned on Crome), www.Boomslang.us OBD1 Conversion Harness, 450cc DSM Injectors, 255lph fuel pump, 12" and 10" 2.2" 1250cfm Slim Radiator Fans, I will add a Wideband O2 sensor and guage at a later date, that is why I had the extra O2 Bung installed. A Custom made sidemount Intercooler. And of course the necessary gauges and oil feed and return kits. All this is on a Stock B20A JDM engine and stock internals.

There are many Turbo sellers out there that offer rebuilds for used Turbo's and brand new Turbo's as well. It's not hard to find them on the net, or you can call your local shop to inquire about how much they charge.

For those of you who do not understand Turbo Charging your car here is a link for you to read up on: https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221037

Here is a link that will explain the different types of Turbo's:

If you buy a Used Turbo, here is a link to a guy who sell's rebuild kit's for the most common Turbo's, He also sells Turbo's as well and if you don't have a common Turbo, I am sure they can help you find parts for it:

Here is a link for those of you who need an adapter plate to use a turbo to a certain Exhaust Manifold, for example: Use a DSM T-25 on a T3 Exhaust Manifold.

And if you are not sure if you want to Add an Intercooler or not check this link out:

And after you decide that Turbo Charging is for you then clik on this link so you know what Parts you are going to need: https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229697

Here is a link to convert to the 4 wire O2 Sensor for the those who are using the Stock ECU with an FMU. This is only for the 88 - 89 Preludes, not for the 90 - 91 Si Ludes since they are already 4 wire O2 from the factory. http://ludicrous2_0.tripod.com/how_to/oxy/index.html

And for you guys who want a FMIC(front mount intercooler) this is what your car may have to go thru to make it work, take a look at this link: https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216152

*Update - 04-25-2006 - Charge Pipe Bends and Length's
a. Planeman01 - used (4) 180's pipe bends and (2) 45's pipe bends
b. Rudeludenotmeanthough - used 5 180 degree bends and the legs were 10 - 12" inches long. He had to cut and weld to make them work.

Here is a link discussing "How To Make 450cc DSM Injectors Fit":
1. http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/dsm_injectors/ *Please note that as far as the wiring goes it does not apply to 3rd Gen's read the update below -

*Update - 04-27-2006 - DSM Injectors Hook up:
After some research, I have found out that DSM 450cc's will plug straight in to our existing harnesses and that we do not need any splicing of anything due to we already have a stock resistor box on our 3rd Gen cars. So, all you need to do is buy some good rebuilt 450cc DSM (Peak and Hold) injector's.

*Turbo Charging a 3rd Gen Automatic!!!* 05/02/06

Update on upgrading the Torque converter!! 09/11/06
I spoke to a local shop up here in WA(Precision Torque Converters - 253-288-2233)
According to Neal the tech, he said that the Honda Torque Converters were very strong and are capable of handling some boost. However, I asked him what was involved in beefing up the torque converters? He said they just look for weak spots on the TC they add extra welds so as to not have the thing fly apart under the extra Horse Power.
He also recommends fluching the whole system out to get any particles that may have gotten into the tranny and adding an inline filter on the transmission fluid line to keep the TC from getting damaged.
For this upgrade they are charging $212.16 (which includes the Core fee if you do not give them your core. Core fee - $30.00)

So, for those of you wanting to Turbo Charge your Auto like Me! We have a cheaper option!



I spoke to a sales rep. at a shop in New Jersy who specializes in Upgrading or "Bullet Proofing" a Honda Prelude Automatic Transmission to handle the power of boost. He informed me that they have in stock and designed a new torque converter and all other miscellaneous parts for all Honda Automatic Transmission's. You will have to drop your tranny if it is still on the car or if you are buying a JDM tranny, have it shipped to them and they will modify and install all parts and then ship it back to you, ready to be installed and be on your way!! I was informed the tranny will handle 425hp @ the wheels!!! and that their is no middle ground when it comes to upgrading Honda transmission's. The upgrade is $3,600.00 - Ouch!!! I knew it was going to be expensive, but Damm!! Anyways, I wanted to answer the question for those few of us out there, that have Auto 3rd gen's
Here is there site: www.levelten.com - And here is the link direct to the Honda Kit Uprade: http://www.levelten.com/press/12_00_honda_acura_PTS.htm

*Edit: 5/22/06
I have discovered that other than dropping your whole Auto Tranny and shipping it to these companies, you can just pull the Torque Converter on your Auto and ship it to any of these companies and they will rebuild the Torque Converter to handle the extra power and torque from the Boosted engine.
These Performance Torque Converters start at $500.00 to about $700.00

Honda Prelude High Stall Performance Torque Converter:

This is a JMO Performance High Stall Torque Converter for Honda Preludes.

IPT Custom High-Stall Converter. All years and models

Increase performance and reduce ET by .5 to 1 full second over a stock converter. IPT is able to custom modify your converter to suit the characteristics of your vehicle. Please note that this is a modification service- you must ship your existing converter to: IPT 1105 Rt. 23 South Wayne, NJ 07470 Turnaround time is approximately 4-7 business days

Price: $479

Here are the companies that specialize in Honda Performance Torque Converters:

1. www.jmousa.com
2. www.importperformancetrans.com
3. www.levelten.com

by originally posted by
SiBen - Man, auto tranny SUCKS. I just got my turbo installed in my auto Si with H22 swap and the torque converter keeps slipping. I made 138whp and 151ft/lb of torque at 5500rpm with 5psi boost. This is the first time a honda engine made more torque than hp. My turque curve dropped like hell after 4500rpm and my hp curve dropped off after 5500rpm. fuel cut-off is at 7200 so it's not a problem with that. THIS SUCKS. And I hear this grinding noise whenever my car is just beginning to accelerate or just beginning to decelerate or cruising at closed throttle. I can't figure out what it is. But is's robbing a lot of power in the drivetrain. Could it be the axles or the tranny? Can someone tell me what could be wrong with my car?
This is what happens when you do not upgrade your Torque converter when Turbocharging!


And for those of you who want to see how to install a turbo on your 3rd Gen, here is the link for an acutual turbo install of our Beloved cars + an extra link to show how to setup a junkyard setup that will work as well:

1. 3rd Gen Turbo install: https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235660

2. Junkyard install and parts: http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/turbo.html

3. 3rd Gen DSM Ghetto Setup:
For those of you who wanted to know, you can successfully install a complete Eclipse DSM Turbo system in a 3rd gen and get it to work. His setup up was from a 91 Eclipse DSM. This setup is from a member by the name of Fisher Price.

Here is a picture of the only one known to date to make it work:

Quote: "Well for those who said it couldnt be done...here it is....im finished and here are the pics i promised...it fits like a charm...there was some minor grinding i had to do to the block to get it to fit but its nothing major...all minor work...the front mount will fit but only with the bottom bolt only...the top half of it would have to be cut off....O2 housing clears the alternator fine but i think i will make a heat shield for the manifold and the O2 housing so i dont fry the alternator and the power steering line...not bad for 10 bucks on the manifold...free turbo and 4 hours time of beta testing....for all you who said it couldnt be done...well its just been done!!".

4. The Second DSM Turbo Installation to date(5/14/200 :

DSM Turbo Setup Installation ( 1 2)

Here are the pics:

5. Updated Info(8-05-0:

Thanks to another member on the site we now have another option for those wanting to use other Turbo Manifolds to make the T3/T4 Turbos work on our engines. Thank you turbonetics1 for your information on your build.
If you want more information, just pm him.

You can see Turbonetics1 progress on his thread: https://www.preludepower.com/forums/...d.php?t=296964

Or pull a search with this title: "Some very cool pictures of my summer build"

Here is a Treadstone Cast Turbo Manifold for the H22 that can be used on the B20a5/B21a1 heads.

Here are pictures of how Turbonetics1 routed his intercooler piping and still kept his A/C.


6. Budget B20a rebuild/build

Link: https://www.preludepower.com/forums/...d.php?t=357444

Here are related links for Boosting:

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=248965 - truth about EGT's
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=221260 - propane injection
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...2410;sta rt=0 - Jeff's Tyrus Intercooler install CRX
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...;threadid=2952 - lowering boost (carb spring, jeff)
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...y;threadid=989 - making manifold (shortyz)
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...1562;sta rt=0 - mezbo's manifold
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...1438;sta rt=0 - jeffs air to water.
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...;threadid=2450 - a/r
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...;threadid=3363 - calculating intercooler
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...;threadid=3361 - testing WG
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...;threadid=3359 - lowering audi WG.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=373528&page=2 - chipping
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=366319 - clutch install
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...?topic=13329.0 - Everything you need to know about oil lines
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=67146 -oil return
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=109160 -oil return line setup
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=114490 -oil return line parts
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=71999 -where to weld oil return
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119100 -oil return line
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119539 -oil pan welding
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119715 -oil pan welding
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=118687 -oil grade to use
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=118694 -ft for oil feed line
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=118807 -oil feed line
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119681 -oil feed line
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=93550 -part for oil feed line
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=114436 -where to buy brass t for feed line
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=126335 -oil t question
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=125438 -another place to buy oil lines
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=131447 -oil feed line an/npt connector ?
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=134078 -feed diagram
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=133948 -oil bpst fitting again
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=144586 -oil feed line restrictor
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=155510 -oil leaks
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=158018 -oil feed 3' better
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=156571 -oil pan bolts
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=170223 -oil pressure readings
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=168084 -oil feed fitting
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=131450 -oil feed diagram
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=195068 -oil pressu
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=364948 -BSPT and NPT AN explanation. ***
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=365360 -install of walbro 255lph EF
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=122635 -drag 3 (to) coolant line?
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=116891 -closed loop turbo info
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119724 -drag 3 turbo fitment (filing block)
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119690 -vacuum source
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=94820 -closed loop
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=120814 -Drag3 downpipe
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=120867 -Drag3 + Tial connection
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=118699 -wastegate vacuum line
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=118767 -feul pump for drag 3
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=121442 -fittings (brass T on block)
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=123326 -blow off valve tightening
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=123925 -catalytic converter removal o2 sensor
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=124474 -'burning' in the turbo + blow off valve ?
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=124580 -drag 3 manifold boost spike issues
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=124662 -drag 3 tial fitment
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=151845 -closed loop dump tube
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=155616 -flexpipe issue
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=159889 -blow off valve adjusting/cleaning
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=163453 -egt probe tapping
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=167329 -o2 sensor bung
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=170498 -don't use tial gasket
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=175270 -intercooler direction
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=175277 -drag bolts suck
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=373528 -map sensor explanation and chipping
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=206376 -bov greddy type s (loose)
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=120548 -hondata install (solder stuff)
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=98092 -hondata install heiarchy
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=121859 -hondata info on pumps
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=117300 -spark plugs
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=156273 -spark plugs (2)
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=116886 -changing plugs
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=117326 -flexpipe for good price
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=117733 -injectors, 440 or 550
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119569 -guage for autometer
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119591 -autometer guages
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=121452 -aero fpr
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119884 -best FPR?
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=118885 -place to buy aem fpr
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=122590 -(installing) aeromotive fuel regulator
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=86051 -removing/installing intank fuel pump
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=120889 -profec b install
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=116651 -Radiator fans
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=119819 -diff between mechanical/electrical gauges
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=117513 -turbo XS boost controllers and tial wastegates
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=122396 -block guard
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=107030 -rc 440 injector polarity
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=82211 -rc 440 after hondata install
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=121452 -aeromotive fpr part #
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=125639 -hks ssbv clip
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=153531 -more hks bov install
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=125852 -carsound cat part #
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=92570 -turbo timer relay
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=128321 -turbo timer wiring
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=132485 -radius rods
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=63095 -rear seat removal
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=133644 -injector fitment
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=104940 -thermal to cat issues
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=136680 -egt guage stuff
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137223 -which runner to tap for egt
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=55987 -aem fpr against strut bar
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=139706 -tools to carry
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=140003 -base fuel map
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=140774 -bleeding coolant
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=156073 -js safeguard
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=168470 -js safeguard, who is using
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=160428 -summit part
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=170160 -9psi, raise static fuel + retard timing
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=170821 -wires to tap for guages
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=171397 -c clamp pliers for hks bov
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=171314 -EGT temps
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=166449 -vacuum sources
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=175335 -assembling an fittings
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=176725 -oem fan clearance - move to right
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=193263 -greddy profec b
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=85987 -installing rc injectors
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=106033 -matching wires rc injectors
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=133644 -fitment of rc injectors
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=107030 -polarity does not matter
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=154935 -once installed
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=159623 -tips to install
injectors http://www.hstuners.com/forums/showt...threadid=11436
resister wiring http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=441107
fuel pump http://www.theoldone.com/articles/fuelpump/
DIY boost controller http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
DIY Oil line kit http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=432769
Oil press sensor install http://www.theoldone.com/articles/oilpressure/
a/f gauge install http://www.roadraceengineering.com/i...structions.htm http://www.hstuners.com/forums/showt...p?threadid=826
boost gauge install http://www.roadraceengineering.com/i...structions.htm

In closing, make sure you know what you want to do power wise for your car. You must understand a little bit of what you are doing, before you start asking who makes kits?, or were can I get parts? or how do I do this?

After you have come to a solid conclusion and are ready to start your project knowing what you are willing to sacrifice or not, then you can start to purchase the parts of kits that will fit your specific Turbo Charging needs and desires. Also, so everyone is aware; you can Turbo Charge without an intercooler. There are people on here who are still Non-Intercooled and are running this setup as a daily driver, for example the site Administrator: Dave - hondaprelude88 Here is his current setup:

He is currently using this setup as his daily driver and has had this setup for almost 4 years! So, to answer all those who say they just want a simple Turbo setup, it is very doable! Just remember, you are limited to the amount of Boost you can push(7psi) and with this setup, if you do not go OBD1-Conversion with 450cc injector uprade then you must use the MSD BTM module to handle your timing and protect from Detonation(it sounds like a can full of marbles shaking around). I would recommend asking these guys for their advice since they alread have done this. Here is the link to his thread on this setup: https://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205829

Just remember what works for say example: Me - 1Funryd, will not be the same as what you may want to do to your car when it comes to Turboing yours.
I hope I gave you enough to think about and contemplate before making this huge step.

Here are Pics of those 3rd Gen'ers who have complete Turbo setups:

Tonbaker -

This was Tony's orginal setup Non-intercooled however; he had an www.snowperformance.net - Boost Cooler kit on his setup which was what he used to cool his charged air to the engine for two years non-intercooled. The stage 1 kit costs $299.00.

Here is Tony's rebuilt B20A5:

Tony's Setup:
b20a5 block
b21a1 head, mild portjob
B-18 intake cam
B-16 outer valve springs
Pauter Rods
Weisco Pistons 8:5:1
Turbo Setup:
Precision SC61
Tial 38mm
Gigantic FMIC
Alky Control Methanol Injection
NX 65 Shot
Ludespeed Manifold
Ludespeed front engine mount
Tuning Setup:
550CC injectors
Hondata S200
Walbro 255 lph pump
Bigger fuel lines and NO banjo fittings anywhere.
Exhaust Setup:
3inch all the way back
Apexi N1 muffler
Drive Train Setup:
ACT XT Pressure Plate
ACT 4 puck race disk
Stock Lightened flywheel
Weight Reduction & Transfer:
Aluminium Sunroof replacement
Aluminium front bumper support
Lots of misc removal, AC, Power Steering, Heater Core, Sunroof, Seats, SeatBelts etc...

Power Output Updated 11/08/06:
Daily driver 400+whp and 380lbs torque 3rd gen turbo lude.

Updated power curve after Dyno - October 17, 2006

This was 20lbs of boost with a 50shot.
Note: Above 20lbs the car was running super rich (10:1). It needs to be tuned some more. So hopefully after my next tune session i'll make 380 on boost alone.

Slowly but surely.

Planeman01 - updated September 18, 2006

Planeman01 had said he thought he knew what setup he wanted and then when he acutually got it, he wanted something different. He also said, after it was Professionally Tuned, his engine blew because we had a cold snap up here in Seattle, which in turn caused an extra 1psi higher than what his car was Tuned for. So, make sure that you know your environment also when going this route. Every place is different and a car will respond differently to different environments especially when it comes to Performance cars.

Planeman01's Setup:
Stock Block and Head
action 2ms clutch
rebuilt tranny
new clutch master cylinder
new slave cylinder
Turbo Setup:
Straight T3 .42/48
Ludespeed manifold with 2000deg F coating
Ludespeed downpipe
TiAL 35mm wg .5bar spring
2.5 inch exhaust
a muffler that i thought looked cool
dsm injectors (390 cc)
walbro 255lph fuel pump
tuned on crome
ludespeed front motor mount
new radiator
jhonny racecar FMIC painted black
2.5inch charge pipes
golden eagle sandwich adapter
stainless braided oil feed
autometer boost gauge
greddy type s bov
blitz bual TT turbo timer

Power Output:
i put down 179hp atw and 187 tq. on 5.5-6psi

B20luda -

B20luda Setup:
Rebuilt B21
Turbo Setup:
my setup its runnin 8 psi
ludespeed manifold
ludespeed intercooler and DownPipe
I have an EGT guage airfuel oil pressure and boost
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
450cc Injectors
t3 t4 turbo with a big compressor housing
Hondata for Tuning
90 2.0si fully built turbo b21
Tuned by me dynoed 200whp on 6psi currently installing a better turbo GT30R and a 3in DownPipe with 1000cc injectors..

Power Output:
200hp @ 6psi

CADster's formerly Bgerk's Setup:

CADster's formerly Bgerk's Setup:
www.LSDMotorsports.com - Manifold Kit(DIY) I had welded togther
Intercooler and Piping
Rebuilt and Polished 14b
Polished DSM BOV
SAFC II- for Tuning
Wired-up MSD-BTM - for Tuning
GM 2-Bar map sensor
walbro 255lph fule pump
modified Powersteering line to go over and down on the driverside
Zex Plugs
*Kept all A/C, Powersteering, Cruise Control.
Power Output:
158 w.h.p and 159 torque - Dynoed @ 8psi

Boostelude3g's Setup:
Engine Rebuilt:
Engine Misc.:B20 block with b21 head and intake manifold
crower rods
weisco pistons
H22 dual valve springs
powder coated red valve cover
ZEX plugs
NGK plug wires
MSD blaster 2 coil

Turbo Setup:
  • custom AutoLab turbo kit
  • Garrett T04E/T3 50 trim
  • 8 gauge 304SS log manifold
  • tial 38 mm waste gate with open dump
  • tial BOV
  • front mount intercooler (dont know the dimmentions)
  • aluminum piping
Fuel & Tuning:
P74 ecu/hondata
precision 680cc injectors
ACT 6 puck
Weight Reduction & Transfer:
removed A/C, power stearing, condenser fan and gutted trunk.

Power Output:
193hp & 181tq @ 7psi

FuzzyGreen - Setup
Well, my setup was pretty reliable. I drove on it for about 8000 miles before I had to sell it due to financial reasons (had nothing to do with the turbo). Also, I was making more power at a lower boost setting then I've seen from any other non-vtec motor.

T3 @ 5.5 psi
450cc injectors
Walbro fuel pump
Hondata ecu dyno tuned with complete setup
2 1/2 turbo back exhaust
Pulled ~200 whp and ~190 torque
Traction was a major issue in drags, never took it to the strip, but I could still run with cars that averaged mid 14's. and comparing it to my CRX's power I would say it was a mid to high 14 second set up with TONs of torque.

Now, if I had an intercooler and bumped the pressure to 8-9 psi I bet I could have hit 13's. Again traction would limit it severely.

If you want reliability you need to do these things:

1. keep it below 9 psi at all times unless you plan on bigger injectors
2. upgrade to high quality oil lines
3. Run hi octane all the time (don't use octane boost, it's a waste of money, get toulene from a painter supply store)
4. Spend tons of time and money dyno tuning it, find the best tuner in your area on honda-tech boards. Get references.
5. Run synthetic oil (wont cook inside the oil lines)
6. Let the engine warm up and cool down for at least 1 minute before driving or turning it off.
7. Make sure all connections and piping are secure and check them often
5. do not boost past the stock map sensors ability (I forgot what it was, but I think 12 psi)
6. Look into a knock sensor
7. Look into propane injection (boosts octane levels)
8. Don't make power past the stock blocks ability. Personaly I doubt the stock B20 block can take more then 275hp. B21 can take a little more due to extra factory strengthening.
9. Look into a small oil cooler, I set up a cheap oil cooler that ran between the sandwhich adaptor and turbo oil inlet and I think this saved my turbo and my engine when it got hot during the summer.
10. Use hi-temp protector tape on every line (AC PS) around the turbo.

And if you look at what it takes to make and keep a turbo system reliable you can now understand why I felt I needed to sell it when I ran into financial issues.

I found this on another members post so I thought I would post in this thread:

1989 Honda Prelude Si Turbo
Atlanta, Georgia, USA

- 1989 Honda Prelude Si Turbo (16V DOHC 2.1L)
Engine Mods:
- Garrett T3/T4 hybrid turbocharger
LudeSPEED Liquid-Air Intercooler (using A/C condenser as heat exchanger)
- GReddy Type-S BOV
- Wiseco (7.5:1) Forged Pistons
- Total Seal Piston Rings
- Pauter H-beam Forged Rods
- Bored 30 over; iron-sleeved back to stock displacement
- Vortech FPR
- Skunk2 Adjustable Cam Gears
- LudeSPEED Turbo Manifold
- LudeSPEED 2.5" Downpipe
- Polished and Balanced Crankshaft
- 3 Angle Valve Job
- O-ringed head, Copper Head Gasket
- ARP Head Stud Kit
- Unorthodox Crank Pulley
- APEX'i S-AFC -

If you want to see his whole page here is the link:


Update: 6-13-2013

To clarify since this thread needed some updating.

Turbo Charging the B21a1 motor is not recommended due to it having FRM Sleeves like so:

The reason is because the FRM sleeved blocks are very course and harsh on the piston rings, the sleeves themselves are very durable and strong, but the rings are not compatible with the FRM sleeves causing the rings to burn up and cause oil blow by which only gets worse with turbo charging due higher demand put on the rings when adding a turbo on the motor.

To date there is no ring set that can replace the OEM ones for performance. There is a company called Mahle that produces a piston and ring set for OEM FRM sleeved H22/23 blocks.
If you want to get a hold of them to ask if they can make a set of rings for your B21a1 pistons, then they would be your only choice. But no one has done this as of the update to this post.

Your other option is to resleeve the B21a1 block with some form or steel sleeve from the know manufactures.

The best and pretty much only option for reliability will be to use the B20a5/A block.

I hope you all enjoy this write up!

After all this we can run the standalone fuel management systems and or Boost whatever other system that you prefer and boost and tune our cars properly and be able to tune them so as not to blow up our motors.


**Edit: 9-26-2010:

I have deleted all reference to LSDMotorsports.com due to them moving in a different direction which means they no longe support our 3rd gen community.



*Suspension Stuff - Bushings*

Here is the link for you:


Here are the part numbers, that you will have to pull up when you get to the site and search for them:

SPF2061K $89.90 Prelude Upper Control Arm Bushings(above)




SPF1531K $36.95 Prelude Rear Sway Bar End Link Bush



BHF31 (pictured above)

[BHF31] - $141.75 - Sway Bar - Front - 24mm Fixed-Blade

[BHR31] - $141.75 - Sway Bar - Rear - 20mm Fixed-Blade

These are the parts that they still carry when I checked as of today as per the site.

These other part numbers are not on the site, but I would think if you ask them if they still made them they might be able too. You will have to check.


Sales: Zach Thomas
Phone: 616-399-9025
Fax: 616-399-9174
Email: [email protected]

Sales: Glenn Dirkse
Phone: 616-399-9025
Fax: 616-399-9174
Email: [email protected]

Customer Service: Judy Boone
Phone: 616-399-9025 (office)
Fax: 616-399-9174
Email: [email protected]

================================================== ================================================== ================================================== ================================================== ========

**Update: 9-26-2010:
Dave has no longer produced these strut bars. You can still get a hold of him via pms or his website and ask if he will be willing to do a set for you, but that will be between you and him.


Now, for Strut Bars for our cars, we have a local member who makes them and does an outstanding job! Here is his work and the info on the products.

His name is: MustardCat

MustardCat / DW Motorsports STB features:
CAD designed shock tower plates, cut at a local machine shop.
Very sturdy bar to end plate mounts. (no flex)
Sturdy and stiff polished aluminium center bar, one end has left hand thread and the other right hand thread. (Makes adding pre-tension a snap.)
Stainless steel heim joint bar ends, with locking nuts.
Area directly over shock is open, good if you acquire some top adjusting shocks.
End plates primered then painted semi-gloss black.

There are three options you can add:

Option #1:
Aluminium anodized heim joints, I can get them in red, blue, black, and purple. This option adds $18.50 to the total cost. (4 Joints.)

Option #2:
New flanged nuts, to replace the old stock shock mount nuts. This would add $7.50 for 10 new nuts.

Option #3:
Nothing special here, but if you want to paint the end plates to match your bay or colour scheme yourself, I will just primer them and send them like that.

All prices in U.S. dollars.

The standard bar set (Front and Rear) is $235 before shipping.

If you want just a front or just a rear, they are $118 before shipping.

To sum it up,
Regular set is: $235
With new nuts: $242
With anodized joints: $253
With anodized joints and new nuts: $261

Shipping quote:

When you are ready to order e-mail me and specify any options you want. Also be sure to send your ZIP/Postal code and I will e-mail you back with a total price including shipping. Put "STB Order" in the subject of the e-mail so it doesn't get thrown into my junk mail box by accident.

I do ship outside the U.S.

But to give a shipping example, a full set sent to NY costs about $15. A full set sent to CA is about $12. I'm located is Wash. state BTW.


I prefer paypal but I also will take money orders. My paypal address is the same as my regular mail address.


InterChangable Brake Disks and Pads
Originally posted by VOLKS

PRELUDE 88-91 2.0 12V SOHC (S)

Front Break disc 242/19

Accord 1.6 12V (AC) 1/85-12/86
Accord 1.8 12V (AD) 84-12/86
Accord 2.0 12V (CA) non ABS 1/89-12/90
Accord Aerodeck 2.0 12V (CA) non ABS 85-12/90

Front break pads:
Accord 2.0 12V (CA) non ABS 85-12/88
Accord 2.0 12V (CA) ABS 85-12/88
Accord 2.2 16V 2WS (CB) 89-93
Civic 1.6 16V DOHC (ED) 88-12/91
Civic 1.4 16V (MA) 1/95-01 Akebone
Civic 1.5 16V V-TEC II (MB) 1/97-01
Civic CRX 1.6 16V DOHC (ED) 10/87-91
Integra 1.6 16V (DA) 89-5/93 Vin 1200000>

PELUDE 87-92 2.0 16V DOHC (Si)

Front Break disc 262/21

Accord 2.0 12V (CA) ABS 85-12/90
Accord 2.0 16V (CA) 85-12/90
Accord Aerodeck 2.0 12V (CA) ABS 85-12/90
Prelude 2.0 16V (BA) B20A1 79-87

Front break pads:

Accord 2.0 12V (CA) non ABS 1/89-12/90
Accord 2.0 12V (CA) ABS 1/89-12/90
Accord 2.0 16V (CA) 85-12/90
Accord Aerodeck 2.0 12V (CA) non ABS 85-12/90
Accord Aerodeck 2.0 12V (CA) ABS 85-12/90 Vin OC200001>
Civic 1.6 16V V-TEC (EE) 90-12/91
Civic CRX 1.6 16V V-TEC (EE) 90-6/92
Integra 1.6 16V (DA) 89-5/93 Vin 1200000>

PRELUDE 88-91 all models (S, Si)

Rear Break discs 239/10

Accord 2.0 12V (CA) 85-12/90
Accord 2.0 16V (CA) 85-12/90
Accord Aerodeck 2.0 12V (CA) 85-12/90
Civic 1.6 16V DOHC (ED) 88-12/90
Civic 1.6 16V V-TEC (EE) 90-12/91
Civic 1.6 16V ES/LS (MB) 1/95-01
Civic 1.6 16V V-TEC SR (MB) 1/95-5/97
Civic 2.0 Turbo D (MB) 5/97-5/99
Civic Aerodeck 1.6 16V V-TEC ES (MC) 2/98-01
Civic CRX 1.6 16V DOHC (ED) 10/87-91
Civic CRX 1.6 16V V-TEC (EE) 90-6/92
Concerto 1.6 (HW) 89-95
Integra 1.6 16V (DA) 89-5/93
Integra 1.6 16V (DB) 7/93-6/99

Break Pads:

Civic 1.6 16V DOHC (ED) 88-12/91
Civic 1.6 16V V-TEC (EE) 90-12/91
Civic 1.5 16V V-TEC II (MB) 1/97-01
Civic 1.6 16V ES/LS (MB) 1/95-01
Civic 1.6 16V V-TEC SR (MB) 11/95-5/97
Civic 1.6 16V V-TEC ESi (EG/EH) 91-12/95
Civic 2.0 TurboD (MB) 5/97-5/99
Civic 1.6 16V VTi V-TEC (EG/EH) 91-12/95
Civic 1.6 16V VTi V-TEC (EK) 1/96-01
Civic Coupe 1.6 16V VTi V-TEC (EM) 99-01
Civic Aerodeck 1.6 16V LS (MC) 2/98-99
Civic Aerodeck 1.6 16V V-TEC ES (MC) 2/98-01
Civic Aerodeck 1.8 16V VTi V-TEC (MC) 2/98-01
Civic CRX 1.6 16V DOHC (ED) 10/87-91
Civic CRX 1.6 16V V-TEC (EE) 90-6/92
Civic CRX 1.6 16V VTi V-TEC (EG) 6/92-96
Concerto 1.6 (HW) 89-95

*we use the same brake pads as the 99-00 civic si

These are the PolyUethane Muffler Hangers for our cars:


I hope this Helps

Sean Tydingco
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(1Funryd - H22 Swap) - Ludcifer - INX - MustardCat(B20a)

Last edited by 1funryd; 08-03-2019 at 07:18 AM. Reason: *Updating*
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