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Euro R intake manifold

63K views 78 replies 38 participants last post by  nitin_s1 
#1 · (Edited)
By far the best bolt on you can do to your H22. A noticable jump in power, even from my butt dyno. Sounds alittle bit different. Well worth the money from Rosko.

Bolted on and tuned, I've seen dyno's of them making around 8-10whp. This is a midrange power adder, so don't expect huge, high-end gains.
 
#2 ·
By far the best bolt on you can do to your H22. A noticable jump in power, even from my butt dyno. Sounds alittle bit different. Well worth the money from Rosko.

Bolted on and tuned, I've seen dyno's of them making around 8-10whp. This is a midrange power adder, so don't expect huge, high-end gains.
I too am thinking about these and have heard great things from many ppl...
 
#10 · (Edited)
That intake was designed for a engine with a much higher power band probably requiring you to run your H22 engine into the red line zone in the 7400 to 7700 rpm level , which will shorting the life of your engine and eventually cause a increase in power robbing cylinder blow buy around its rings , in order to achieve any advantage . When you find it necessary to install a catch can on your engine , don't blame it on Honda . I have herd , but am not sure , that the ECU employs a soft limiter above 7400 rpm to discourage people from fucking up their engine which would limit your gains without a reprogramming of the ECU .

Euro Accord Engine Details :
8500 rpm red line for the F20b vs a 7400 rpm red line for the H22a4 .

It included a 2.0L F20B engine rated 200 PS (197 hp/147 kW) (180 PS (178 hp/132 kW) automatic) and 144.5 lb·ft (196 N·m), 11.0.1 compression, 8500rpm redline unlike H-series VTEC engines that from factory is limited to 7800 rpms. The F20B uses a unique blue valve cover. Like all the larger displacement Honda engines, the F20B is mounted with a tilt towards the driver.

or

H22a

Displacement (cc):
2157
Power (bhp@rpm):
220 @ 7,200 rpm ..........vs 7000 rpm
Torque (ft/lbs@rpm):
163 @ 6,500 rpm .........vs 5200 rpm
Compression Ratio:
11:1.............................vs 10:1 meaning that intake tunning to match the air pulses going in and out are different
Bore (mm):
87
Stroke (mm):
90.7
Cam Design:
DOHC
Valve Train
VTEC

It looks like your trying to put a square peg into a round hole . lol
 
#11 ·
Euro Accord Engine Details :

It included a 2.0L F20B engine rated 200 PS (197 hp/147 kW) (180 PS (178 hp/132 kW) automatic) and 144.5 lb·ft (196 N·m), 11.0.1 compression, 8500rpm redline unlike H-series VTEC engines that from factory is limited to 7800 rpms. The F20B uses a unique blue valve cover. Like all the larger displacement Honda engines, the F20B is mounted with a tilt towards the driver.
That is not correct.

The single runner intake manifold was used on the H22A7 Accord Type-R and the H22A Accord Euro-R. Both have the same redline as a normal H22, and make peak power in around the same range as a normal H22 Type-S.

The F20B did not come with a single runner intake manifold, it came with the standard H22 style twin runner IM.
The F20B's indicated redline is about 7400 RPM and in stock form it generates peak power around the same area as 220PS H22 Type-S. While its short stroke will allow it to carry power easily, it needs bigger than stock cams to do that.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Without re gearing the transmission , or flogging the engine above its red line point to stay in its new power band , this difference in specs is a big deal .

Torque (ft/lbs@rpm):
163 @ 6,500 rpm .........vs 5200 rpm

Peak torque has been moved up 1300 rpm which is something they could get away with because they have more available torque to work with .The bulk of the torque increase probably came from the higher compression ratio and the cams that were designed to exploit the higher compression ratio and the less restrictive intake . The type of fuel it required may have been a factor why this engine did not come to the US .
 
#13 ·
You can't say that an increase in peak torque has any negative effects just by the fact that it is at a higher RPM. Does the motor actually make less torque at 5200 than the old motor?

You quote a torque peak of the Prelude Type-S, by the way, which comes with the dual stage intake manifold. The Accord Euro-R is quoted at 6700 for peak torque.

If you want something with a low torque peak that will keep running longer than you are alive, perhaps you should look into a SOHC Prelude, which will make peak torque at 4500 RPM. It will also be very slow, because the unfortunate thing about engines is, the faster they can be spun (and still produce power), the faster they will make a car go. Formula 1 engines are in so many ways utterly conventional...no exotic variable valve timing, turbos, variable geometry intakes, run on gasoline...but they make over 700HP out of 2.4 liters of displacement....caused by RPM.

Heck, a regular H22 (6800RPM power peak), if maximum acceleration is desired, should be shifted at fuel cut off in the first three gears. Just like an H22 Type S or H22 Euro R.

If you want something that is going to last longer but also go quickly, maybe you should get a bigger engine or something with a turbo.
 
#20 ·
Now that you guys have completely nerded up this post..

Going off of what I gathered:

Euro mani.. better midrange

Skunk 2.. better top end

But just depends on what your car is built for, also.

Which one is cheaper, and how hard is the swap, between the two?
 
#28 ·
i had the skunk2 im with a blox 70mm throttle body, cai, hondata intake manifold gasket, and a 2.5 catback exhaust, aem fuel pressure regulator and rail... i made right around 20 more whp and 12ish wtq... gains were constant 10 whp throughout the rpm range

this was all tuned on hondata s100 and a p28ecu... so to me if the euro r makes 8-10whp through midrange with top end not really helping... ill get another skunk2 im in my new prelude...

skunk2 is more expensive and better to me... but you have to have a lot more to get it to work right... euro r mani wont need everythign i had but i wanted more power then that... the skunk2 manifold with the cams and cam gears i wanted would have worked even better for me and the skunk2 mani

the main question to ask yourself... daily driven for fun? or weekend warrior autox and drag racing? put a lil money into the motor for a lil umph... or a lot of money for some great high end power?
 
#24 ·
so would adding this to a stock h22 with 2.5" exhaust, header, and tuning be worth having or do other mods need to be added to increase power enought to matter?
 
#25 ·
Out of all of the bolt on's I have, my Euro R and 68mm throttle body made the biggest difference on my butt dyno. I didn't feel a difference with any of my other bolt on's. Now with S300, a motoxxman basemap and some A/F tuning done by me, the torque curve feels even better. It's deffinently much faster after the S300. My modds are...

H22A
CAI with BPI velocity stack and K&N filter
Professional Products 68mm TB
Euro R manifold(rosko'd)
JDM RS*R header
60mm tesp pipe and exhaust

I planned on getting an actual tune done with this set up but now I'm wanting some cams.
 
#29 ·


my original numbers with the new numbers... not bad at all

156 whp to 181whp
134 wtq to 152 wtq
 
#32 ·
Euro R is well worth the money! Get one from Rosko and all you have to do is bolt it on...he will even port match your TB too if you send him it!

Search some dyno charts and you will see how much you pick up in the mid range, making it way more fun to daily drive.

Track numbers are great too, with a Euro R and 3 inch exhaust i droped 3 tenths in the quarter.
 
#34 · (Edited)
My types S has just been fitted with a Torneo/Euro R engine with type S inlet manifold and type S throttle body,Its has got a standard type S exhaust headers and factory standard types S air filter,It made 123kw at the wheels on the Dyno it had no tuning and was straight after installation (to get base line before any set up of engine)also the Dyno was down on the day by 8- 10kw so potentially 132kw,the temp was mid afternoon at 28c, Also on the Dyno where a Euro R and Torneo R ,these are their figures, Euro R 121 kw (factory standard car with 56k)and Torneo R was 132kw with the following mods,3.0 exhaust, Mugen type headers,after market throttle body, ignition mods. the guy had spent 3500 on modifications so a lot of money for very few gains .Also a side note these cars do not have a power steering pump(EPS) like my types S.When you think this engine factory standard is 162kw at the flywheel with no air con/power steering/etc on there Dyno). the power loss from front wheel drive is between 20-30% so these figures are a good honest indication of what to expect from these 220 bhp (164kw) red top engines,i would be keen to see what people are getting from standard h22a engines, only genuine Dyno results please.
 
#37 ·
Actually, it's closer to 15% drivetrain loss on a manual and 20-25% on an automatic. What makes you think drivetrain loss is worse in FWD? It's way better than a RWD or AWD ever could.

How were you guys able to adjust your idle? Or can't you and it idles like normal?
 
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