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Old 07-31-2016, 11:55 PM   #26
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Well there are some things you can do. One would be to carefully spray carberator cleaner around the intake manifold while running to see if it changes idle. If it does then you have another vacuum leak somewhere. Use only carberator cleaner or maybe throttle body cleaner spray. do so sparingly and keep it away from the exhaust. Do not use starting fluid. that is ether way to flammable.

The other thing besides new plugs and cap and rotor for distributor would be to take off the iacv. Idle air control valve on the intake manifold and clean it with throttle body cleaner or electronics cleaner or map sensor cleaner. Just clean its screen.
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Old 08-01-2016, 12:39 PM   #27
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Okay, I have been following the discussion the whole time, even through the mundane vacuum hose precis sizing. I was kinda hoping someone else would chime in with some information that was helpful to actually diagnosing this car. I am not here to give you an answer to fix your car for two reasons. Reason one, I am not there to look at it and diagnosing from a computer chair is often erroneous at best. Reason two, and I believe the biggest reason, you will feel a better sense of accomplishment finding the problem yourself. however I will try to keep you going the right direction. Now that I have said my piece, time for a little fact.


Our cars use a speed density type air metering system utilizing a MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensor and an IAT(intake air temperature) sensor. Knowing the pressure and temperature of the air inside the intake, the ecu can then calculate its density and apply fuel accordingly.

So what the f does that mean? It means because the ecu is directly monitoring manifold pressure, and any vacuum leak would affect that pressure, the ecu will compensate for a vacuum leak. In a speed density system a vacuum will not produce a low idle speed, in fact it will increase the idle speed. The only exception to this would be a leak in the MAP sensor line. I doubt this line is leaking because the old trick of gaining some more low end torque was to actually create leaks to the map to increase fueling.

If we used an air mass system, then yes, a vacuum leak anywhere can cause a low idle speed.

If I was looking for a low idle, I would be checking for restricted idle control circuits, incorrect ignition timing, poor fuel and or delivery for starters.

I hope that helped to point you into a more productive direction.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:16 PM   #28
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Hi Tony! I reviewed the thread. I noticed you explained how most things have been covered and what not. You didn't bash him like Sean. To the best of my knowledge and I would have to review the F.A.Q. Most stickied articles are for bouncing idle. I knew the map sensor was fed by a vacuum line. That is why I said possibly. As far as the rest of intake leaks I was wrong and stand corrected. But as far as actually diagnosing the problem like you stated. I said from the get go to set the distributor timing and said how to do it.

We all start out not knowing anything about cars. This brings up you stating you been following this thread but couldn't lift a finger to type anything after your first post. You said you were hoping someone else would. That is your prerogative. But it is no way to give back something Sean is quick to not do but bash new members.

We all ready have the deck stacked against us the age of our cars and lack of them still on the streets to internet traffic down since facebook and then now the 10 digit password debacle. You might not care. Sean might not care. I know i care and many others. Pissing new members away won't help this site survive. This site was created in 02 as result of hondaprelude.com discussion board failing. Oh I forgot another one, The prelude name is out of production at the moment.

you both in general have been very hostile to new members. Posting for the first time. Nothing wrong with informing them of newbie thread and the f.a.q. However 10 years ago we would get like 20 of them a day. So in the scheme of things one or two a day which would be a huge uptake at the present time isn't going to clog the search engine anymore then it already is in perspective. I have no problem finding anything I want. But I have been here the whole time and have an idea of whom said what and key words to find stuff.

To the o.p. (original poster) you can replace your fuel filter if you haven't done it yet for around $15. You can also buy a fuel gauge and 12mm adapter bolt for the filter. I have a how to with pics. About $30 or under. Or the tool loaner program at O'Reilly's or Autozone. I know one or both have a fuel pressure gauge. I don't know if it will be direct fit but you could always buy the $10 fitting off of ebay and use the loaner gauge.

Far as dirty clogged fuel injectors if that is a problem buy a bottle of chevron techron fuel injector cleaner and put how ever much it says to in the tank at next fill up. Otherwise if they were the culprit you can buy remanufactured ones or new one aftermarket or send them to rc injectors to be cleaned or we have a how thread somewhere where user id rev rage did a backyard mechanic cleaning using double AA batteries. But the fuel injectors would be the last thing i would do.
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Old 08-01-2016, 08:43 PM   #29
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Well shit if a vacuum leak will make it idle higher maybe I'll just put some holes in the hoses??

Totally just playing lol. Gonna do a tune up tomorrow. Got new plugs wires cap rotor and air filter and a bottle of the fuel injector cleaner stuff I'll put in next time I fill up. I figure all this stuff should be done anyways. If it still idles low im just gonna turn it up
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Old 08-02-2016, 02:56 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
But as far as actually diagnosing the problem like you stated. I said from the get go to set the distributor timing and said how to do it.
Saw that at the time of post, and thought you were going down the right path. I was however discuraged when I saw no presuit of that advice and it seamed as though it was rappidly barried in information I felt was not pertanate to the concern.

Quote:
We all start out not knowing anything about cars. This brings up you stating you been following this thread but couldn't lift a finger to type anything after your first post. You said you were hoping someone else would. That is your prerogative. But it is no way to give back something Sean is quick to not do but bash new members.
I know many do not know cars, that is the only reason I participate in forums and on face book, so I can help out. My sitting back and watching was simply to allow a better chance of conversation about the issue from as many sorces as wanted to join in. It is not about the want to not lift a finger, but the want to gather a larger concenciuos. I do care, that is why I stepped in once I saw that the help wasn't going in a direction I saw as productive. It is not my intention by anymeans to bash any member, new or old. That is also why I posted explaining why the op got the responce he got and tried to encurage him to return for answers if he didn't find what he was looking for.

Quote:
We all ready have the deck stacked against us the age of our cars and lack of them still on the streets to internet traffic down since facebook and then now the 10 digit password debacle. You might not care. Sean might not care. I know i care and many others. Pissing new members away won't help this site survive. This site was created in 02 as result of hondaprelude.com discussion board failing. Oh I forgot another one, The prelude name is out of production at the moment.

you both in general have been very hostile to new members. Posting for the first time. Nothing wrong with informing them of newbie thread and the f.a.q. However 10 years ago we would get like 20 of them a day. So in the scheme of things one or two a day which would be a huge uptake at the present time isn't going to clog the search engine anymore then it already is in perspective. I have no problem finding anything I want. But I have been here the whole time and have an idea of whom said what and key words to find stuff.
Again, it was not nor ever has been my intention to be hostile to any member. I would like to see many more members on here, as well the other prelude hangouts. I would like to see greater interests in these cars in general. I spend everyday after work and weekends helping local 3g ownwers with their cars often at no cost, but for those that don't live near me, that fails to translate to rhis or any other forum. How many times have we pm'd information back an forth? What about that said I don't care? Maybe I have been failing to convey that I am here to help, but I assure you that is the only reason I am here and heavily invested to this site and it's members. If you wish to continue this, I ask we do it either in my build, or through pm just so we dont clog this guys search for results.





3gee-zee, you said you where broke, a simple free check of the timing if you do not have a timing light, would be to look at the disteibutor. If the bolt notches indicate the distributor is adjusted all the way to the clock wise position, the timing is too retaded. Try losening the 3 distributor retention bolts and turn the distributor counter clock wise as far as it will go, then back clock wise 1/4-1/3 total travel, that will get you pretty damn near stock timing. You joke about poking holes in the vacuum lines, but I have lost cylinders befor and had to disconnect vacuum lines to keep the engine running in traffic to get it home so I could fix it. The cruise control line is a good one.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:31 PM   #31
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Any luck with the idle?
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:45 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
Hi Tony! I reviewed the thread. I noticed you explained how most things have been covered and what not. You didn't bash him like Sean.

...you both in general have been very hostile to new members. Posting for the first time. Nothing wrong with informing them of newbie thread and the f.a.q. However 10 years ago we would get like 20 of them a day. So in the scheme of things one or two a day which would be a huge uptake at the present time isn't going to clog the search engine anymore then it already is in perspective. I have no problem finding anything I want. But I have been here the whole time and have an idea of whom said what and key words to find stuff.
...
Kevin what the hell are rambling on a about?
I am bashing newbs and being hostile???
Get off it, I pointed him in the direction he should go as to advise him in the way forums work.
No where did i Bash him.

Seriously dude, get off the high horse.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:26 PM   #33
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Still idles low .it hasnt stalled on me at all though and I've been driving it daily. It still just sits steady at the first line so I'm not too worried about it now. And sorry for causing all this drama geeze.....
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:12 PM   #34
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Just curious what conditions are your timing belt in?
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:48 PM   #35
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looks ok ..the guy I bought it from said the belts were changed like 10000 miles ago but I don't know if I believe him. I've been hearing some squeeling lately
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:56 PM   #36
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Remove upper timing cover and slowly spin the motor. socket on crank pulley bolt works wonders. Watch the timing marks, both should be at 12:00 @ same time. If not, replace along with water pump
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:59 AM   #37
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And sorry for causing all this drama geeze.....
you didnt cause anything. Sometimes this forum is kinda like sharing an apartment with a friend, we all get along and help each other out, but sometimes we have spats because someone didnt do the dishes.
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Old 09-10-2016, 03:11 AM   #38
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Alright so I've been driving this car every day for a few months now and it hasn't died on me once and I've actually forgotten about the low idle. Too me it doesn't really seem like a problem anymore it just sits steady at like 250 . But do you guys think this is a problem that needs to be addressed?
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Old 09-10-2016, 03:17 AM   #39
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Like is it really necessary for it to be idling 750-1000 ?
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:23 PM   #40
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I guess it depends. If running cams with heavy overlap you never idle that low. Out stock cams however are a long way from having any overlap (the reason they suck) so they can actually run a lower idle than that. The reason our idle isnt a lower setting is due to the lack of pistons, the fire events are so far apart the engine is far from smooth. If running autotragic transmission the higher will cause more ware on the trans. The clutch packs will slam when removed from p/n causing stress on the hard parts, and the higher rpm will cause more load on the torque converter when at a stop creating more heat, resulting in torque converter wear and accelerated fluid breakdown. The higher idle will also higher tail pipe emissions at idle. To low a idle can also impact emissions if the engine is unable to run smooth. If you can deal with the increase wear and noise, then I guess it isn't like really necessary. The increase in wear is kinda mute, it will wear anytime it is in operation.
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:35 PM   #41
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I guess it depends. If running cams with heavy overlap you never idle that low. Out stock cams however are a long way from having any overlap (the reason they suck) so they can actually run a lower idle than that. The reason our idle isnt a lower setting is due to the lack of pistons, the fire events are so far apart the engine is far from smooth. If running autotragic transmission the higher will cause more ware on the trans. The clutch packs will slam when removed from p/n causing stress on the hard parts, and the higher rpm will cause more load on the torque converter when at a stop creating more heat, resulting in torque converter wear and accelerated fluid breakdown. The higher idle will also higher tail pipe emissions at idle. To low a idle can also impact emissions if the engine is unable to run smooth. If you can deal with the increase wear and noise, then I guess it isn't like really necessary. The increase in wear is kinda mute, it will wear anytime it is in operation.

Sorry for the late ass reply haven't been on here for a couple years haha but thanks for all the help dude I appreciate it
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:50 PM   #42
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I dont think its been mentioned, but grab a can of carb cleaner and lightly spray it around the vacuum hoses while car is running. Listen for any change in idle speed....


I had to contribute something cus I really hate to clutter up the thread forum too. I thought long and hard b4 asking about my 4th gear not shifting. I asked ot have post deleted for issue is resolved...
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Old 07-02-2019, 06:31 AM   #43
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Quote:
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Nah still idles the same /.\
Did you try cleaning your throttle body?
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Old 07-23-2019, 01:34 PM   #44
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When I had this issue on my 91 B21A1 it was caused by low compression on two of the 4 cylinders. Lower end of the motor was going quickly as well. I would suggest that if you have a B21A1 or even a B20A5 to do a compression check and see if the numbers are low and what the variables between the cylinders are. To be honest I'm not sure that your issue is with the fuel/intake system but of course I have not looked at your car. I ended up swapping my B21A1 and things have been awesome since. I have clocked 6K miles since the swap to a B20A3 motor with a B21A1 valve train. B21A1/B20A5 engines are like Unicorns as their condition when buying used can be highly suspect.
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