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Old 05-03-2015, 11:34 PM   #26
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It's always a pleasure to watch your progress mustard. You have what seems to be a very zen approach to the 3rd gen.
"I'd like more ground clearance from this H swap... guess I'll just get more ground clearance."
Keep up the amazing work!
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Old 05-06-2015, 03:35 AM   #27
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Hot damn, that's nice.

Ground clearance was the whole reason I decided against the H swap and I changed to a B swap.
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Old 05-08-2015, 01:02 PM   #28
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Nice fabrication man. Looking good
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Old 05-09-2015, 11:15 PM   #29
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Ground clearance was the whole reason I decided against the H swap and I changed to a B swap.
I really thought I would learn to live with it. Never did.


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Nice fabrication man. Looking good
Thanks.


8 MAY 15:

Making some poly bushings work for the radius rods. I'm using a 13mm socket shoved into the center hole as a centering device for the 7/8" holesaw:







Checked header clearance on the front subframe, all good:



I had a big downpipe dent from a previous "incident". I welded a spare bolt onto it and used a prybar to work it out:



Here is where I bent the clutch dampener for now:






9 MAY 15:

Paint day.

Rear subframe:



Hood:



There were two problems with the engine finish. I originally painted it during the winter and I think some moisture was trapped under the paint. That caused bits of bad oxidation to poke through everywhere. Also the VHT paint I used (which I've used on blocks before) turned yellow this time for some reason. I sanded all the old stuff off and painted it with 500 cast aluminium paint from Duplicolor this time:
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:34 PM   #30
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10 MAY 15:

Did a little bit today, got side tracked by other stuff.

Reinstalled hood:



Installed upgraded end links and poly bushings for front swaybar:



Took the mounts apart and prepped them to get powder coated:
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:49 PM   #31
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So is that what is needed to make those strut rod bushings work on stock 3rd gen front subframe? I figured it would be something simple like that. I have just been holding off installing everything as I am trying to save money for purchasing used steering knuckles/hubs so they can be powder coated like my control arms only gloss black instead of charcoal metallic with clear for the arms. I just have had to put the money into other stuff lately.

By the way those bushings your using should be a direct fit for the rear strut/radius rods.

I have had my bushings laying out waiting on me to take some corrective pictures but I have sorted through almost all that. When I get some time I will relist / rehost a ton of prothane es bushing pics.

I actually have all three sets of Honda / acura bushings for these strut radius rods. Plus I got to add those integra or what ever the cross reference was that was a perfect fit for press in polyurethane whiteline that 10kpos or someone tried after what Jon has said all this time would work. Uca's. It be nice to know if prothane got their shit together and started supplying the right bushings for that model. The ones Sean got for the uca from prothane would fall right through the collars of the stock 3rd gen collars.
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:48 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
So is that what is needed to make those strut rod bushings work on stock 3rd gen front subframe? I figured it would be something simple like that. I have just been holding off installing everything as I am trying to save money for purchasing used steering knuckles/hubs so they can be powder coated like my control arms only gloss black instead of charcoal metallic with clear for the arms. I just have had to put the money into other stuff lately.

By the way those bushings your using should be a direct fit for the rear strut/radius rods.

I have had my bushings laying out waiting on me to take some corrective pictures but I have sorted through almost all that. When I get some time I will relist / rehost a ton of prothane es bushing pics.

I actually have all three sets of Honda / acura bushings for these strut radius rods. Plus I got to add those integra or what ever the cross reference was that was a perfect fit for press in polyurethane whiteline that 10kpos or someone tried after what Jon has said all this time would work. Uca's. It be nice to know if prothane got their shit together and started supplying the right bushings for that model. The ones Sean got for the uca from prothane would fall right through the collars of the stock 3rd gen collars.
I found that the CB7 radius rod bushings fit perfectly in the rear radius rods, however, I never bought the front ones as I was always planning on just running rod ends.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:32 PM   #33
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I'm still waiting to get the mounts back from powder coating, they should be done Wed or Thurs. I also sent the injectors out for a cleaning and flow test. Those should be back any day now as well.

18 MAY 15:

I painted the modified radius rod and front subframe. I also added some spacers to the crossmember:



The P28 I'm using is taller than the stock ECU and I was using some spacers under the mounting plate to give it more room. But I decided to try for a more stock fit by cutting out a section of the mounting plate and having the bottom of the ECU flush with it:

Last edited by MustardCat; 05-18-2015 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:45 PM   #34
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20 MAY 15:

Got the injectors back, one was stuck closed:



Picked up the mounts too. They look professional now:



Motor is going back in this weekend.
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Old 05-21-2015, 05:22 PM   #35
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wow! very nice work! defiantly going to be watching for more
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:42 PM   #36
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Nice work Dave!!!
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:25 PM   #37
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Thanks.


22 MAY 15:

Started to put it all back together today.

Mounts installed:





About half way done:



The crossmember still needs some more spacers to bring it down to the bottom of the downpipe:
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Old 05-23-2015, 03:27 AM   #38
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How far does it hang now, vs the AZ or ESP mounts?
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Old 05-23-2015, 05:54 AM   #39
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top work. I love when people tackle issues head on!
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Old 05-23-2015, 07:42 PM   #40
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Quote:
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How far does it hang now, vs the AZ or ESP mounts?
Eh it's hard to say for sure. Right now it's approximately 1" - 1.5" lower than the B20. Off the shelf H mounts probably have it 2.5" - 3" lower than the B20.

B20:


From today:




23 MAY 15:

I made a little mistake. I didn't check the left axle clearance with the axle, I just eyeballed it. When I put it in the boot was touching the subframe lightly. Luckily there was enough room to work and modify the subframe without pulling the motor again.

I forgot the before picture but here are the afters:





When I was about to put the right axle in I peeked into the diff and saw a shape that didn't make sense. Fished this out with some pliers:


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I'm almost done in the bay, just a little clean up left:



Here is a side view of the overhang and ground clearance, AZ vs now:





Tomorrow I'm going to put together a lightweight front bumper cover support so I can hang the front end and then start working on the ECU/wiring stuff.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:16 PM   #41
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28 MAY 15:

Still ongoing.

I made the bumper cover support:



Got the ECU plate sorted out:



Installed for testing, what a mess:



I took the car for a test drive. Everything works and the mounts didn't explode either! Runs way smoother than before since I'm using 62A urethane and don't have the motor pry bared into place for belt clearance. Power is way better too it seems, the basemap I chose in Neptune this time is for a H22 with bolt on's so it's fairly close.

I've got some of the final poly bushings for the suspension I need coming then I will be able to align it. I also cleaned the car really well and took some insane stuff off the paint with a claybar, but I still need to hit it with the polisher.

Finally the valve cover is also off right now getting powder coated because it was suffering the same paint issues the block was.
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Old 05-28-2015, 11:57 PM   #42
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threads like this make want to keep my lude.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:30 AM   #43
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Good shit Dave, I like your methods, approach, and outcomes. Always a pleasure to see your process and execution.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:20 PM   #44
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This is awesome. Good job man.
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:36 AM   #45
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this is amazing! good job man! id be interested in getting the specs for your mounts so i can fab myself up a set !!
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Old 06-03-2015, 04:48 PM   #46
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this is amazing! good job man! id be interested in getting the specs for your mounts so i can fab myself up a set !!
I've got them modeled but I'm going to put some miles on this setup before I release anything.



3 JUN 15:
I'm still waiting for my rear radius rod bushings to ship so I'm kinda stalled for now. But I did get these in:



I also got the valve cover back and installed my Rosko wire cover along with it:

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Old 06-03-2015, 08:23 PM   #47
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:31 PM   #48
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Just the engine. Car needs a respray at this point.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:17 PM   #49
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Hi Dave! Which bushings have you ordered for the rear strut/radius rods? Frijoles has had pics of the accord cb7 I think he called it fitting. They would be the firmest with the least amount of play. I have them and the ones you modified for the front. The ones you modified for the front should of been a direct fit as part numbers go for the rear. I also have the acura integra ones. They would be inbetween the ones you mounted to the front for the rear. If the big cb7 fit these middle acura ones should fit too. For the most play would be direct part number fit for the rear would be the moog blue ones. These moog are shaped like the oem rubber ones from Honda. But they advertise them as a step between rubber and polyurethane. I haven't bought the moog ones yet. I probably will eventually so I can play with the different sizes to see what I like best. The acura ones you would probably not use the metal internal collar that come with them. They are just a hair tighter then the puck ones like you modified for the front. I think the term moog uses for advertising their blue bushings is "thermoplastic".
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:11 AM   #50
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I ordered the same ones I used for front.
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