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Old 07-27-2008, 11:27 PM   #51
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Might be a stupid question, but what H22 turbo manifold exactly is that?

Awesome build, I'd like mine to look very close as far as placement with the turbo components. Did you have to use a half sized radiator or did you choose to? How well does it cool? We are in similar climates me being here in atlanta and I've always been weary of messing with the radiator.
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:45 AM   #52
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This is awesome, seriously.

Given that it's a logish manifold i don't think a relatively minor port mismatch is much of an issue, if it's even an issue at all. Especially if the ports have been ground on to match up better.
If you can use a full width radiator i would, just because an aluminum half width, even with a double core rather then the stock 1.5 core, cools a bit less then half as efficiently as the stock one. It's enough to keep things under control as long as you aren't doing sustained boost runs, like high speed or especially track driving.

As to the exhaust valve, speaking from a very generic standpoint if it has started recessing itself into the seat, or the seat has started sinking into the head, you're headed for trouble. If you're lucky it's just been ground too many times and won't close up the lash any more then it already has, but i wouldn't bet on it. Given that you obviously don't mind treating this car like a racecar (put it together, take it apart, put it together, take it apart, put it together, drive it, take it apart, etc.) too much, you might as well slap it on and see if it stays together or not, worse likely case is that it closes up it's lash and then burns. Absolute worst case is that it's stretching and the head snaps off, but i've only seen that on one (1) honda, ever, out of hundreds of them. That said, it made one hell of a mess.


Anyway, i think this whole thing is awesome, keep up the good work! Ignore the naysayers and the haters.

Considering the amount of power you ought to be making at 16psi, i think 50k miles is pretty damn good.
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:43 AM   #53
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The valve cover came off of my older brothers integra, he boosted those cars back in the mid/late 90's. He told me it came in on a ls jdm motor, and thats all he knows. All the ls valve covers fit our heads. The manifold is a treadstone h22 castiron manifold and works great for keeping all the other shit working like A/C Powersteering,,, The half rad was for a civic, very carefully I took a little bit off the top and bottom tanks and moved the hose outlets to better places. I weld but for this I had to get a pro, no room for a mistake here! It cools better than the old one because its thicker, and I have a bad ass fan on it. It pulls heat off with no problem under full boost at any speed.
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Old 07-28-2008, 10:16 AM   #54
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while mucho kudos for pulling this off (i gave it 5 stars),
im only going to ask one thing about this....

this is much more just a few missmatched ports, its got moved ports.
so how did you match these ports up ?
i mean, if they were matched really well, then you had to add metal to the head and maybe the mani in order to move the ports to match. did you do such work ?
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Old 07-28-2008, 02:24 PM   #55
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Most cast iron manifolds are very thick from what I saw on ebay, oyeah and cheap$$$, I first took it to my local machine shop for those guys to do the fitment. Mike, the machinest told me he could do it but I could just as easly do it my self for less money. I went to Lowes and bought a dremil tool and a carbide bit. That bit ate that steel up like butter! I didint do any work to the head. I used the b20a5 gasket as a template for the manifold, this is how I got the stud/port locations. I didint even take much time to do it eather, I did it on a bucket on my back porch. I only took off metal where it affected the exhaust flow as the h22 ports are slightly bigger. The job took around a hour. I paid 80$ for the manifold.

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Old 07-28-2008, 02:29 PM   #56
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Nice work!

Your STBs will arrive shortly
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:56 AM   #57
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Thanks! I cant wait to see those STB"s on my ride, I hope they make a difference in the way the car handles. I just put the custom powersteering line on that I bought from you, and what a messy job it was taking the old one off. Whines a bit when turning sharp in parking lots but is quiet once I get moving. With the summer heat It is much more safe than the factory PS line as well, and looks so good! I post some more pictures with my acura brake write-up this weekend.
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Old 07-29-2008, 01:56 PM   #58
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why use the B18 ARP studs? you could have called ARP and had them send you studs that fit without using the extra washers.
*shrug*

what did that intermediate shaft come from? looks sorta like a 5th gen SH axle...but they don't have an intermediate on those because of the ATTS unit.
I don't understand how having that there gives you "traction lock"...

you know the 4th gen VTEC brakes fit with a little modification...right? they are 11 3/32" rotors, the front calipers and pads are quite a bit larger than stock as well.
I want to try a legend master cylinder on my setup...they get a 1" bore to our 15/16"

I love the lip and the fact you kept AC
car looks great, wheels and everything just fit

would you mind snapping a few pictures of how your catch can is mounted? I'm trying to figure out where to put mine
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:14 PM   #59
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That shaft if for our transmission (the D2E4), its the jdm lsd, but not quite a true lsd system, more so a type of traction lock up system. They were offered only in the 90-91 jdm preludes and are very rare. From what I have gathered on this site is that ARP does not offer the stud kit for our motors any more, the machine shop didint have them in their ARP book eather. I checked on ebay and called race eng down in florida with no luck. So it was just to easy to go ahead and make the simple mod and get on with other thaings. Do you know if ARP makes a stud kit for our engines that isint a custom order type of thaing? I compaired the 4th gen lude's rotors to the legend rotors and the size seemed to be close but the legend had a thicker rotor. Compair them for your self if ya get the chance. I will get some pictures of the pcv routing for the catch can with the brake write up, I'll also do a write up for the integra lip since they dont fit well, (they come up short on the sides) thanks Tsiah.

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Old 07-29-2008, 09:25 PM   #60
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The second core on a radiator cools with 40% the efficiency of the first core.
Aluminum cools with 60% the efficiency of copper.

You have basically taken the stock radiator and folded it in half making a double core, which takes off 30% of it's cooling capacity (it looses 60% efficiency in half it's core), and then made it out of aluminum which looses an additional 40% of it's capacity, for a result of a radiator that cools at 42% of rate/efficiency of the original OEM radiator.

However, considering that you can't put that turbo setup on with the OEM radiator, there is decent reason for a half-rad.
Just don't think it's an upgrade.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:23 AM   #61
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Yeah, yeah, yeah, I read up about the rad's way before I bought one, and yeah copper is better when it come to heat transfer, still though, I have never had a problem with overheating. We have record temps here in charleston this week, heat index is 105-108, still no problem. The way the fan pulls heat of this sucker there never will be a problem eather. You should try one before you say that they will make your ride overheat, I promise you this one will always keep my temps in check no matter what. Now, for the sorry ass thin stock one, well, I didint have problems with it eather, but it was to heavy and took up way to much space. I only ran one fan most of the time anyways so the rest of it was useless, just got in the way and blocked air flow.
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:15 PM   #62
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That shaft if for our transmission (the D2E4), its the jdm lsd, but not quite a true lsd system, more so a type of traction lock up system. They were offered only in the 90-91 jdm preludes and are very rare. From what I have gathered on this site is that ARP does not offer the stud kit for our motors any more, the machine shop didint have them in their ARP book eather. I checked on ebay and called race eng down in florida with no luck. So it was just to easy to go ahead and make the simple mod and get on with other thaings. Do you know if ARP makes a stud kit for our engines that isint a custom order type of thaing? I compaired the 4th gen lude's rotors to the legend rotors and the size seemed to be close but the legend had a thicker rotor. Compair them for your self if ya get the chance. I will get some pictures of the pcv routing for the catch can with the brake write up, I'll also do a write up for the integra lip since they dont fit well, (they come up short on the sides) thanks Tsiah.
I'm more interested in the actual can mounting, but seeing the hose routing would be nice too

Where'd you come across that axle? Can you feel a difference? I like my LSD But I suppose a cheaper route is always nice...I spent $900 on mine (cost of the unit and having it installed)

As far as I know, There never has been a kit for our engines. You have to call Jay Coombes (assuming he still works there) and have him get you the set of studs that fits (the middle 2 still had to be modified...but they did it for me) it's definitely more expensive this way (I paid almost $200 for mine ) but I like it fitting the right way rather than using extra washers. *shrug*
I guess it doesn't really matter eh? studs are studs...I'm sure the extra washer doesn't do anything to hurt the clamp force of the nut.

The extra thickness of those rotors might cause you some issues.
(doubt it, but you never know) plus you're drilling a rotor thats already 5 lug to fit a 4 lug. The guy who did mine told me he won't do 5 to 4 or 4 to 5 because he's had a few of the hats crack while people were using them.
I also highly doubt the minor difference in rotor thickness will do you any good. you go to the 4th gen VTEC brakes and the fastbrakes.com rear big brake kit and you'll stop on a dime.
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:35 PM   #63
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stopping on a dime aint the problem.
its stopping on a dime 7 or 8 times in a row...... thats the problem with our brakes.
they have no staying power.


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heat index is 105-108, still no problem.
it aint saying it will overheat.
he is saying they are not as efficient as a OEM copper radi.

and heat index as well as wind chill have no effect on inanimate objects like cars.
these are terms given to how it 'feels' outside to a living thing.
it has nothing to do with the 'real' temperature.
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:20 PM   #64
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stopping on a dime aint the problem.
its stopping on a dime 7 or 8 times in a row...... thats the problem with our brakes.
they have no staying power.
my setup does I've taken it from 80mph-0 quite a few times in a row (4-5 IIRC) just to get a feel for them and WOW I never had any fade. I just wish the pedal didn't have as much travel. its the sacrifice you have to make with the larger calipers. *shrug*
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:23 PM   #65
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are you doing this down a 40 degree incline ?
like when flying down a mountain ?

i have great brakes that are firm and stop fast.
but they are crap for staying power.
two runs down bankhead parkway and the whole system is almost boiling.


bankhead parkway is huntsville's 'tail of the dragon'

CADster life fact #157 :
about 20 or so years ago, i slammed a 3 day old camry into a tree coming out of that corner at about 50 mph.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:10 PM   #66
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I got into an little heated chat with my boss today about brakes. Outlaw brakes are right down the street from my shop, and I was toying with having them build us a big brake kit for the fronts if they could make the price right. My boss goes oh hell no one will buy that crap all they need is slotted or drilled rotors! And I was like man, the way I drive through the mountains I sure as hell got damn near boiling PS fluid AND brake fluid, and my brakes turned to crap within no time, I want the best brakes I can manage not for just keeping my front end out of someone's ass!
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:30 PM   #67
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Ok, I got my brakes back from the machine shop today!!!!!!!!!!! The machine work is done very tight, and alittle more pricey than I thought. The machine work was 200$ for both of them. So, my price so far has been, legend junkyard calipers 12$ Cross drilled rotors caduim plated 80$ Brake pads 60$ machine work 200$ and 4 hours of cleaning nasty shit. 352$ dollars for new brakes that are bigger, and thicker, but I have not installed them yet so everybody keep your fingers crossed. They will bolt right up so they should work. I'll do a write up in a day or two.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:38 PM   #68
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How did my thread go down to 3 stars? Looks like I gotta get my brake set up on here asap. So, looks like I have to work for those stars on this site. I'll have something real juicy on here for everybody to see soon, and Cadster I'll get those pictures of my catch can hose routing with the brake write-up.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:28 PM   #69
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are you doing this down a 40 degree incline ?
like when flying down a mountain ?
I've done a few mountain drives.
I haven't pushed the car as hard as I thought I could...mostly because I don't wanna drive into an oncoming car or into a deer/elk
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and Cadster I'll get those pictures of my catch can hose routing with the brake write-up.
you mean me


your machine work cost as much as my calipers! I spent a lot on the calipers because everyone that had used calipers for sale was only selling the calipers, they wouldn't sell me brackets (does that make sense to anyone!?) and every parts house I called didn't have the calipers available with brackets so I had to hit up honda. The only way I could get the brackets from them was to buy calipers... I still need to find something to use for cores so I can get my $140 back from them
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Old 07-30-2008, 07:00 PM   #70
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Btw: Above 20-30mph fans do nothing, all air flow is from the car moving through the air. So that other half of OEM radiator is in fact quite useful.

Have you done any sustained boost driving? If not you certainly can't say that it won't overheat.
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Old 07-31-2008, 01:57 PM   #71
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Driving back from Miami a few months ago on interstate I-95 yeah, I streched it out real good for about 90 miles or so. My speed was around 120mph and reached 150 a few times when the road was clear and flat. Water temps stayed around 190-210, but my oil temps were high, a few times they reached 240, I didint have a oil cooler then. My oil temps have been the only temps that have bothered me, I even took the water temp gauge off the dash, It was a fear of mine when I got the half rad but no problems. Yes, copper is the best for cooling but my half rad does the trick just fine.
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:05 PM   #72
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I got my 94 Acura legend brakes on today. It took about 30 min and let me tell ya, I never though it would be so nice to have so much stopping power! Everything bolted right up with no problems and they look huge. I would say so far this is my favorite everyday driving mod yet. Got some very good pictures and I will have the write up posted friday night or sat. Tsiah, and Cadster I will get the pictures of the catch can routing as well. Later guys
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:18 PM   #73
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am i the only person whos wondering where the hell he got the traction lock system? i would probably be down for a set
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:38 PM   #74
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What are you Gonna do when you need new rotors drop another two hundred on having them machined?
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Old 07-31-2008, 06:48 PM   #75
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Not to worried, I'm sure they will last a while.
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