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Some very cool pictures of my summer build

26K views 137 replies 59 participants last post by  DAV4WS 
#1 ·
#31 · (Edited)
Man, I have gone through blocks, turbo's, and all kinds off other stuff through the years. But only one manifold! that says alot, and those exhaust ports were perfect other than the two centers which are a little closer togather. This should be the least of your worries when using this manifold! It took me a whole 30 seconds to mill a little off the exhaust manifold with a rotory tool to match the head's center ports. The exhaust studs were my worries more than the tiny bit off 2 ports were. If you cant do that simple little bit of work than just stay away from turbocharging period. On the good side I have never had any problem with that manifold and it has allow me to run A/C, power steering, and puts te turbo in a sweet spot that cant be beat! The exhaust could not be better eather, its 3inch! And the compressor is high enough so that you can run a huge compressor with out moding the front mount! There is just so many good thaings here and very few bad about this manifold. Every other honda head has wayyyyyy different exhaust ports and stud lay out. You really dont and have not ever like that exhaust manifold while tons of other members always pm me with questions about it. Never argue with what works,esp when it works this well.
 
#33 ·
wow... lips reminds me of someone's car..lol...

btw's good job on da car.. it looks great...

???? what kind of valve cover is dat????
 
#34 ·
Valve cover came off a 98 jdm 1.8 integra motor, I just wanted to be different so I used it insted of my polished b20a cover. Some people tell me they don't like it as much and it does not have the hood clearance that the b20 cover has. I think it looks good though and nobody on this site has disliked it so I'm keeping it on the engine.
 
#36 ·
Wow, I just got my first 5 star post/write-up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just to let everybody know I am working on a way to upgrade our brakes using 11inch rotors/calipers that can be found for cheap in just about any junk yard. It's in progress now and I'll do the write-up next week with some new 11inch cross drilled gold cadium coated rotors along with freshly painted big ass calipers. It should look really good when done.
 
#50 ·
The manifold will bolt up with some modifications, you will need to drill out the holes on the H22 manifold to make them a bit wider so the manifold will fit onto the studs on the B20A5 head.

I would also like to know which 1.8 series the valve cover is from though!

Beautiful car, and those pictures just totally helped with me mounting my intercooler, what is the length of your intercooler?
 
#51 ·
Might be a stupid question, but what H22 turbo manifold exactly is that?

Awesome build, I'd like mine to look very close as far as placement with the turbo components. Did you have to use a half sized radiator or did you choose to? How well does it cool? We are in similar climates me being here in atlanta and I've always been weary of messing with the radiator.
 
#52 ·
This is awesome, seriously.

Given that it's a logish manifold i don't think a relatively minor port mismatch is much of an issue, if it's even an issue at all. Especially if the ports have been ground on to match up better.
If you can use a full width radiator i would, just because an aluminum half width, even with a double core rather then the stock 1.5 core, cools a bit less then half as efficiently as the stock one. It's enough to keep things under control as long as you aren't doing sustained boost runs, like high speed or especially track driving.

As to the exhaust valve, speaking from a very generic standpoint if it has started recessing itself into the seat, or the seat has started sinking into the head, you're headed for trouble. If you're lucky it's just been ground too many times and won't close up the lash any more then it already has, but i wouldn't bet on it. Given that you obviously don't mind treating this car like a racecar (put it together, take it apart, put it together, take it apart, put it together, drive it, take it apart, etc.) too much, you might as well slap it on and see if it stays together or not, worse likely case is that it closes up it's lash and then burns. Absolute worst case is that it's stretching and the head snaps off, but i've only seen that on one (1) honda, ever, out of hundreds of them. That said, it made one hell of a mess.


Anyway, i think this whole thing is awesome, keep up the good work! Ignore the naysayers and the haters.

Considering the amount of power you ought to be making at 16psi, i think 50k miles is pretty damn good.
 
#53 ·
The valve cover came off of my older brothers integra, he boosted those cars back in the mid/late 90's. He told me it came in on a ls jdm motor, and thats all he knows. All the ls valve covers fit our heads. The manifold is a treadstone h22 castiron manifold and works great for keeping all the other shit working like A/C Powersteering,,, The half rad was for a civic, very carefully I took a little bit off the top and bottom tanks and moved the hose outlets to better places. I weld but for this I had to get a pro, no room for a mistake here! It cools better than the old one because its thicker, and I have a bad ass fan on it. It pulls heat off with no problem under full boost at any speed.
 
#54 ·


while mucho kudos for pulling this off (i gave it 5 stars),
im only going to ask one thing about this....

this is much more just a few missmatched ports, its got moved ports.
so how did you match these ports up ?
i mean, if they were matched really well, then you had to add metal to the head and maybe the mani in order to move the ports to match. did you do such work ?
 
#55 · (Edited)
Most cast iron manifolds are very thick from what I saw on ebay, oyeah and cheap$$$, I first took it to my local machine shop for those guys to do the fitment. Mike, the machinest told me he could do it but I could just as easly do it my self for less money. I went to Lowes and bought a dremil tool and a carbide bit. That bit ate that steel up like butter! I didint do any work to the head. I used the b20a5 gasket as a template for the manifold, this is how I got the stud/port locations. I didint even take much time to do it eather, I did it on a bucket on my back porch. I only took off metal where it affected the exhaust flow as the h22 ports are slightly bigger. The job took around a hour. I paid 80$ for the manifold.
 
#57 ·
Thanks! I cant wait to see those STB"s on my ride, I hope they make a difference in the way the car handles. I just put the custom powersteering line on that I bought from you, and what a messy job it was taking the old one off. Whines a bit when turning sharp in parking lots but is quiet once I get moving. With the summer heat It is much more safe than the factory PS line as well, and looks so good! I post some more pictures with my acura brake write-up this weekend.
 
#58 ·
why use the B18 ARP studs? you could have called ARP and had them send you studs that fit without using the extra washers.
*shrug*

what did that intermediate shaft come from? looks sorta like a 5th gen SH axle...but they don't have an intermediate on those because of the ATTS unit.
I don't understand how having that there gives you "traction lock"...

you know the 4th gen VTEC brakes fit with a little modification...right? they are 11 3/32" rotors, the front calipers and pads are quite a bit larger than stock as well.
I want to try a legend master cylinder on my setup...they get a 1" bore to our 15/16"

I love the lip and the fact you kept AC :emthup:
car looks great, wheels and everything just fit :D

would you mind snapping a few pictures of how your catch can is mounted? I'm trying to figure out where to put mine :razz:
 
#59 · (Edited)
That shaft if for our transmission (the D2E4), its the jdm lsd, but not quite a true lsd system, more so a type of traction lock up system. They were offered only in the 90-91 jdm preludes and are very rare. From what I have gathered on this site is that ARP does not offer the stud kit for our motors any more, the machine shop didint have them in their ARP book eather. I checked on ebay and called race eng down in florida with no luck. So it was just to easy to go ahead and make the simple mod and get on with other thaings. Do you know if ARP makes a stud kit for our engines that isint a custom order type of thaing? I compaired the 4th gen lude's rotors to the legend rotors and the size seemed to be close but the legend had a thicker rotor. Compair them for your self if ya get the chance. I will get some pictures of the pcv routing for the catch can with the brake write up, I'll also do a write up for the integra lip since they dont fit well, (they come up short on the sides) thanks Tsiah.
 
#62 ·
I'm more interested in the actual can mounting, but seeing the hose routing would be nice too :emthup:

Where'd you come across that axle? Can you feel a difference? I like my LSD ;) But I suppose a cheaper route is always nice...I spent $900 on mine (cost of the unit and having it installed)

As far as I know, There never has been a kit for our engines. You have to call Jay Coombes (assuming he still works there) and have him get you the set of studs that fits (the middle 2 still had to be modified...but they did it for me) it's definitely more expensive this way (I paid almost $200 for mine :( ) but I like it fitting the right way rather than using extra washers. *shrug*
I guess it doesn't really matter eh? studs are studs...I'm sure the extra washer doesn't do anything to hurt the clamp force of the nut.

The extra thickness of those rotors might cause you some issues.
(doubt it, but you never know) plus you're drilling a rotor thats already 5 lug to fit a 4 lug. The guy who did mine told me he won't do 5 to 4 or 4 to 5 because he's had a few of the hats crack while people were using them.
I also highly doubt the minor difference in rotor thickness will do you any good. you go to the 4th gen VTEC brakes and the fastbrakes.com rear big brake kit and you'll stop on a dime.
 
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