Geno's Build Thread. H22 Swap - Honda Prelude Forum : Honda Prelude Forums
Home Forums Albums Garage iTrader Arcade
Register FAQ Insurance Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read Auto Escrow Advertise

PreludePower.com is the premier Honda Prelude Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-15-2016, 10:30 PM   #1
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Geno's Build Thread. H22 Swap

Hey, wassup guys.

I work at a shop when I'm not in college and if you haven't seen me in the introduction thread, I bought a 91 Red lude SI over the winter break.

Here are plenty of pictures for those who like pictures, like me.

Was raining out when I decided to pull it in.









The more I look at this picture, the more I realize that someone stolle the 2.0 badge off the back of the car. It's alright it wasn't a 2.0 and will never be a 2.0 anyway .



Clean interior. The steering wheel is kinda chewed up though.



Gotta find a way to reattach this.



Here she sits, the ol B21.



Here's a sight for sore eyes.



That day I didn't really do much. I just did a thorough preview of things around the car, searched for any goodies left by the previous owner. I ended up finding an old 4 channel equalizer and a crap ton of lotto tickets. I pushed it back outside as it awaits the next day.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-15-2016, 11:10 PM   #2
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
The next day, not much really happened. Again, busy with work and a bunch of other little side jobs. At the time, I was swapping a 4.6l into an exploder. Woops, I mean explorer.

I tried to get the lude running and find out why it stopped. Various suggestions and "expert" guesses tells me the timing belt snapped, or skipped several tooths. I was hoping it didn't snap so that I could at least drive the car in it's true stock form before I performed the surgery.

The first thing I did was charge the battery then crank and listen for valves tapping the piston or some sort of metal clunking noise while cranking. I got nothing, so we attempted to start it several times with no luck.

After we decided to give up, I pulled the valve cover anddddd.



At this point, I was trying to stay positive. I was hoping that it just slipped off and needed to be placed back on. ... I pulled the belt to get it out, and waddya know. Snapped right in half. I didn't take a picture of this but I think you could imagine what a snapped belt looks like.

Still thinking positively, I called up every auto parts store in my area for a timing belt. Of course, no one has nothing in stock. Everything needs to be ordered. However, I needed it now, so we abandoned the idea and pushed it back outside.

Next day (today) (no pictures), we got it back into the shop and I started rip the car down starting with the basics. Fluids, exhaust, axle. All the parts of the car are being saved so I can recycle them in the future. I pulled the O2 off the exhaust and kept it in a zippy. I don't remember but I believe it's a wide band O2 which is perfect for the h22 swap.

I chopped up the exhaust with the saw. The only thing being reused there is the hangar pins/guides whatever you wanna call them. Great for when I need to make my own exhaust.

Then I started attacking the engine bay. Was getting a bit late so I stopped before I got too deep. Was just about to pull the condenser out when I noticed that I had to pull the bumper off to get to the bolts for the lines. That was where I stopped.

I've never really seen such a complicated air intake system like this one. It looks extremely restrictive and goes all around the place. Also the hole for the fuel rail, where the fuel line from the filter connects to is extremely small. I can sort've see why this motor never really made power. It looks like it wasn't made for power but for more of an emissions purpose instead.

I got ESP's H22 swap mounts sitting in my kitchen. I have yet to purchase the traction bar for the front yet.

The wiring harness I plan to convert on my own. Shouldn't be too hard. I labeled each and every connector for my convenience.

I haven't bought the H22 or the transmission yet. I plan to get one of the M code LSD transmission. I can't remember the code off the top of my head. I think it was M24b or something like that. (It's M2b4, just looked it up )

I'm going to visit the junkyard to pick up those shifter cables of an accord. As for the axles.. I can't see myself paying $600 for 2 axles. I'm going to have to search the parts catalog and see if I can find an axle that might work for me.

I was originally going to drop A/C and Powersteering but my coworker talked me into keeping those items. (Mainly for resellability) He did a lot of custom work on lots of classic cars including Camaros, Corvettes, Mustangs, Pinto's, Falcons, Caprices the list goes on and on. He also has spare supplies in the storage room so hopefully I can get it to work. I will be reusing the old A/C supplies. A/C is not a necessity to me, just open the window's imo.

I still gotta search up some more stuff. I'll do all that when I'm back up at the college. One of the main things I gotta figure out is the axle situation and whether or not the B21 fuel rail is interchangeable with the H22 fuel rail.

Thanks for reading guys!

Let me know if I'm missing anything! I always seem to be forgetting 1 thing.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2016, 01:10 AM   #3
cudaboy
Elite Member
 
cudaboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 340, 'Cudaville
Posts: 4,294,967,295
cudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internet
Send a message via Yahoo to cudaboy

the h22a fuel rail is not the same. Search I think that some have used 4th gen accord axles with their midshaft. The stock b21a1 fuel rail or the b20a5 with stock banjo bolt is good for upto 400 hp custom turbo's been proven. Your car is not missing the 2.0 badge and nobody stole it. The 90-91 si came with the b21a1 usdm and just got the si badge as shown in your pics. Lastly as much as we can use the posting here, this is a builds thread you even said so. We have rules that builds be started in the builds section. It has been this way for two years or more. So don't be surprised if this gets moved to the builds section top of main forum page.

Welcome to the site. You can find a plethora of info in the red F.A.Q. sticky top of 3rd gen forum. Sean's (1funryd's performance link thread) found in the F.A.Q. that is his own F.A.Q. that he started years ago when the then current moderators weren't updating the 3rd gen F.A.Q. like they should of been. Feel free to check out my large and oddball tool thread in the F.A.Q. as well. The rest you can find by clicking the drop down menu for searching and click advanced search where you can limit it to 3rd gen section, user id, dates, tags etcetera.
__________________
CUDABOY'S STRUT TOWER BAR GROUP BUY: I HAVE 1 FRONT OF BLACK ON BLACK W/SILVER BAR FRONT $150/SH +3 SETS F/R U CHOOSE COLOR MINI G.B. $265 SH.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'91 Si 4ws 5spd(black) "Black Betty"
'70 'Cuda 340 C.I.D. Alpine White, Black Vynil Top, Leather Interior, Rim Blow, Overhead Consolette. Factory Posi 3.55:1, 15" ralleyes, --Fully Loaded and Extremely Rare!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
cudaboy is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 03-18-2016, 10:07 PM   #4
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
the h22a fuel rail is not the same. Search I think that some have used 4th gen accord axles with their midshaft. The stock b21a1 fuel rail or the b20a5 with stock banjo bolt is good for upto 400 hp custom turbo's been proven. Your car is not missing the 2.0 badge and nobody stole it. The 90-91 si came with the b21a1 usdm and just got the si badge as shown in your pics. Lastly as much as we can use the posting here, this is a builds thread you even said so. We have rules that builds be started in the builds section. It has been this way for two years or more. So don't be surprised if this gets moved to the builds section top of main forum page.

Welcome to the site. You can find a plethora of info in the red F.A.Q. sticky top of 3rd gen forum. Sean's (1funryd's performance link thread) found in the F.A.Q. that is his own F.A.Q. that he started years ago when the then current moderators weren't updating the 3rd gen F.A.Q. like they should of been. Feel free to check out my large and oddball tool thread in the F.A.Q. as well. The rest you can find by clicking the drop down menu for searching and click advanced search where you can limit it to 3rd gen section, user id, dates, tags etcetera.
One of my bro's is scrapping his usdm spec h22 so I'm going to grab his rail.

Took a visit to the local junkyard. Only had 1 97 lude and 1 manual pre 96/93 accord. The accord was sitting under a freaking Esclade and I couldn't get inside to pull the damn cables. The manager said he'd get it to me by next week. Problem is, I won't be here next week.

I believe that you will always make more HP slapping a turbo on car vs NA. I was referring to the power it made through NA. I most likely doubt that you could make 400hp NA with the size of that inlet hole. A turbo could make that power any day of the week. I agree with you.

I was thinking that it probably never had it. You might've even convinced me as well. It doesn't matter anyway.

I originally was going to post there, but I figured I would put it in the 3G section since that is what the car is.

Thanks! Yea, this website has plenty of information. I got a lot of threads bookmarked so I can go back and get some information if needed.

Now.. Onto the build.

While at work, I visited the junkyard for a switch for a GMC Envoy. While walking around the lot, I seen an ek civic sittin on top of an accord. It caught my eye because it was real ricey. Shiny red paint, jdm lights, the 6 inch muffler. But what really caught my eye was the wheels. And, it was 4 lug. I HAD to get it.

The owner at the yard tried to convince me that it wouldn't fit my Prelude. But I told him I'd take it anyway.



Specs on the Wheels are 18 x 7.5. I didn't realize the wheels were that big because of the low profile tires. When I installed them on the lude, the whole car raised up by a good 2-3 inches. It fails the fist/shoe/coin test.



The rims had a good amount of curb rash on em. I plan on repairing them and painting them gold during the summer. Also going to have to get coil-overs or lowering springs, the front sits a little high.

Picking up where I left off last time, we pulled almost everything, connectors, a/c power-steering coolant and vacuum lines. I took the front bumper off before I started to make things easier.



We had planned to stay late that day and get the motor out. Time was ticking and I only had 2 days left to pull this engine out. We stayed up till 1 am taking everything out. My helper decided he wanted to go home so we had to wrap things up. We stopped right at the engine/tranny mounts. It was a good stopping point for the night.

imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2016, 12:00 AM   #5
cudaboy
Elite Member
 
cudaboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 340, 'Cudaville
Posts: 4,294,967,295
cudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internet
Send a message via Yahoo to cudaboy

Those wheels look really good style. I look forward to seeing what you do with them. The only thing I don't like about them is there offset. Sorry I am not as versed as some. They are just out so far. The fact they are so open is what makes them work for me so I don't notice the offset as much as other styles. I have 5 spokes too. I think they are the best look for the 3rd gen. Mine are the 5zigen fnor1c's. 16"

Rosko in the vendor section main page makes rails for the h22a I think. I will go h22a in the future but for now I have a spare rebuilt engine and 2 spare trannies 3rd gen stuff.

The biggest wheels I have ever seen on a 3rd gen that I can recall were 19's and that was years ago. I think the guy lived in Louisiana.
__________________
CUDABOY'S STRUT TOWER BAR GROUP BUY: I HAVE 1 FRONT OF BLACK ON BLACK W/SILVER BAR FRONT $150/SH +3 SETS F/R U CHOOSE COLOR MINI G.B. $265 SH.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'91 Si 4ws 5spd(black) "Black Betty"
'70 'Cuda 340 C.I.D. Alpine White, Black Vynil Top, Leather Interior, Rim Blow, Overhead Consolette. Factory Posi 3.55:1, 15" ralleyes, --Fully Loaded and Extremely Rare!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
cudaboy is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-07-2016, 11:49 AM   #6
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
Those wheels look really good style. I look forward to seeing what you do with them. The only thing I don't like about them is there offset. Sorry I am not as versed as some. They are just out so far. The fact they are so open is what makes them work for me so I don't notice the offset as much as other styles. I have 5 spokes too. I think they are the best look for the 3rd gen. Mine are the 5zigen fnor1c's. 16"

Rosko in the vendor section main page makes rails for the h22a I think. I will go h22a in the future but for now I have a spare rebuilt engine and 2 spare trannies 3rd gen stuff.

The biggest wheels I have ever seen on a 3rd gen that I can recall were 19's and that was years ago. I think the guy lived in Louisiana.
Finally have a break from some of the testing and partying so now I can post an update .

Those wheels look freakin gorgeous bro. I will try to find Rosko's page and see what kind of stuff he got. The 18" wheels look a too big for me. I'll let it rock but I may eventually slim down to a 16".

Got the engine out a while back, just haven't had the time to post anything.





Pushed the beast outside. Covered it up until the next time I'm in the area.

Purchased a few goodies while I was away as well. I bought K-Sport coilovers, all the mounts and other little things. Only thing I need is the engine lol.

While up at the college, I seen this beauty:







This thing is at least half a million dollars. (It's definitely not) :P

Last edited by imGenoo; 05-13-2016 at 12:44 PM.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-13-2016, 12:39 PM   #7
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Was searching up some stuff and parts. Was looking at deleting the whole ABS reservoir and pump that takes up quite a bit of space. Looking at prices for a non-abs master cylinder on Rock auto and seen this:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/h...le.com+URL+%2F

Is that a glitch in the system? These cars never came with a F22 right? Anyway going to have to find myself a 3G Prelude in a junkyard. These cars are so rare here, I've visited over 5 different junkyards and have yet to find one. I might visit ebay and search there, or if any of you guys are willing to sell the parts off a car you may have sitting around.

Will a proportioning valve from a newer lude work? I'm not sure why it wouldn't. If people are upgrading brakes to the 4th gen spec then I should be able to use 4th gen proportioning valve right? The problem would probably be that after 92 all these cars have abs. Unless I'm worng, if so the rest will be easy. I'll just purchase some lines and fittings and go from there.

Otherwise, if worse comes to worse, I'll just visit the willwood site, get me a proportioning valve, some lines and make 'em myself.

I'll have some pictures up of my progress either later today or tomorrow.

Last edited by imGenoo; 05-13-2016 at 12:52 PM.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-14-2016, 08:17 AM   #8
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
No pictures yet, but after searching around for a bit, I found out that I could most likely use 40/40 proportioning valves. I can pull these of a 90-93 Integra or 94-95 Integra LS Non abs. This gives me a much more broader range to search then just the Preludes. Going this route I would have to make 2 maybe 3 new lines but it's not that hard.

The non ABS MC can be bought for like $25 bucks on rock auto. I might get the cardone select one though for an extra $20.

Last edited by imGenoo; 05-14-2016 at 08:20 AM.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-25-2016, 02:07 PM   #9
1funryd
Elite Member
 
1funryd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Originally from Guam, back in Kent WA
Age: 47
Posts: 16,476
1funryd is a jewel in the rough1funryd is a jewel in the rough1funryd is a jewel in the rough1funryd is a jewel in the rough
Send a message via AIM to 1funryd Send a message via MSN to 1funryd Send a message via Yahoo to 1funryd

You dont need to change the prop valve on the non abs ludes going with 4th gen calipers and rotors up front.

But since you want to get rid of the abs, then using that integra one should do the trick.
__________________
My Facebook page -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Sean

3rd Gen Aftermarket Manager

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
(Clik Here)
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(1Funryd - H22 Swap) - Ludcifer - INX - MustardCat(B20a)
1funryd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-30-2016, 01:40 PM   #10
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1funryd View Post
You dont need to change the prop valve on the non abs ludes going with 4th gen calipers and rotors up front.

But since you want to get rid of the abs, then using that integra one should do the trick.
Ok. That being said, that means I can use the 4th gen non abs prop valve too right?

I didn't get much done these past couple of weeks. I've been out of the shop. It's been so slow these past two months, they couldn't afford to have another guy in the shop. Luckily I'm back again this week so I can get some $$ for parts.

These goodies came in a while back



In that little post card/booklet they give you, it says here is a gift, but there is no gift. The thing is completely empty, I see the two slots for something but nothing is there. My boy told me it was supposed to be a few stickers but I ain't get squat.







I'm liking the finish on the mounts, they look good. Well done. Hopefully I have no fitment issues.



I needed the bay to be empty for the respray. Pulled the fuse box and everything. Not going the whole 9 yards with filling in spots and welding, so I just did a basic sand down and cleaned up the areas that looked bad.



I also sanded down and fixed up any dent's, scratches on the body as well. I didn't go to the extreme, I wasn't fixing the super small dents because those will be hardly visible, but I'd like to say I got 95% of them.



Covered up the Honda logo holes on the front.



Pinstripe?



This fancy little tool takes care of that.



No more stripe.



It leaves a shiny line across that gives an impression of a high spot. However after sanding it down its still there. Probably like that because of the striping, it won't affect the result of the paint.

Blocked the entire car with 320 then 400 including the bay. Everything is ready for primer, just need the funds to buy.



That is going to be the color of the bay and the wheels. The rest of the car is going to be the same R-51 phoenix red. The color is aged copper and I found it at home depot. Once it dries it looks really good. Now imagine some clear over it.

Not going to be using these wheels, when I took the tires off the revealed several horribly welded cracks from outside to outside. That's why the balance machine couldn't even get this thing balanced.

I still want the same 5 spoke look, so I think I will be going for the Enkei EV5's 17x7. Or Focals F05 17x7.5 42mm. Just browsing tire rack, I might go to Brooklyn and Queens and see what I find. They have lots of super cheap rims. I wanted to go 16's but I'm not too confident about the clearance under the car. Especially with New York's pot holes.

The explorer is almost sold, that means I am that much closer to getting a motor. I was looking at SSR and SKunk2 parts for the H22. They look pretty pricey, so I think I will settle for just a master gasket kit for now. The furthest I might go is basic bolt-ons, Exhuast, sk2 70mm intake, 70mm throttle body, and a remap.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-25-2016, 05:38 PM   #11
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Guess it's time for another lil update.

After talking with a couple of 'expert' friends, I went ahead and bought some cans of etching primer and sealing primer. I sanded down all the primed spots and re primed them with the etching primer. Makes sense. Then I went back over and sprayed it with the sealer primer, then wet sanded the entire car and bay with 600 grit. Talk about smooth paint.

Was browsing on ebay for some wheels, when I seen these for 50% off!!!



Enkei GT7s! 17 x 7.5. After receiving them I went to Advance and bought some tire stems & valves, and red caps to match the car. They look great so far. I would give them 9.5/10 for styling however, a 8/10 for finish. The finish looks good, but you can see some imperfection on the spokes.

According to the sizing charts, I will most likely run some 205/40/R17s. Probably Firestone Firehawk wide oval Indy 500. They are on the cheap side, but I see they got a lot of good reviews.

Also, I bought the engine a couple of days ago and picked it up today!. I'm disappointed with the condition of the engine after I've received it. When it's up on the shelf it's hard to really check anything on the motor while standing on a ladder.

Some pics after stripping:


Anyone know what this sensor is between the heater hose outlet and that other sensor to the right? It seems to have a bunch of crap in it and was broken off. There are a lot of sensors that's been broken off that I nee to replace.



A better look at that sensor:




Oil pressure sensor also broken on the back side


I removed the water pump pipe from behind the cover and behold:


At that point, It was safe to assume all the coolant passages look like that. Which means that I'd have to take this motor to get that special hot water solvent treatment.

Here I'm missing a stud on that side mount, not to mention the other stud is destroyed at the top. Also, it's hard to see, but the valve cover is cracked on the side.


Here is my parts crate. The little vaccuum box under the IM, all the nipples are broken off of it. I don't know if it's for evap or if it's just a regular vaccuum chamber, but I couldn't see all this when the motor was up.


As for the wire harness, I give it an 85%. Some of the wires were pulled right out of the connectors, and the connectors left broken on the sensors. This motor looks like a Japan junkyard motor that they imported to the US.

Harmonic balancer all banged up and broken.


Some other sensors that were broken off.


I'm not too sure what I would like to do from here. Everyone else is telling me to go ahead and just replace those parts, via junkyard hunting, and rock auto. The engine has a 30 day warranty so I can always return it, but the issue is that this was the only OBD1 motor in stock.

I did do a compression check however, even though it didn't have a starter. I cranked it over really fast by hand equally on all 4 cylinders. I think I might've did like 5-8 rotations and it pumped up to about 120 psi on all 4.

One of my friends noted that the exhaust port, intake port, and spark plugs were pretty black. Could've been a couple of things, either running rich, bad timing belt, or a tune. The exhaust manifold that came with the motor was not stock though. It looked like a 4:2:1 header and when I compared it to my friends aftermarket header, the port holes on the header were a lot larger than his. So I'll probably be reusing these headers.

The engine bay and wheels are no longer going to be copper. I'm just going to leave em red and silver.

For now, I'm just going to be making a parts list of things I need. I'm going to grab a non lsd transmission to help with cost. The LSD has a $500-700 price difference from non lsd which I believe is pretty costly. The freaking LSD tranny costs just as much as the motor.

Thanks for reading. If you guys have any parts you are willing to sell that you think I may need, don't be afraid to comment down below or PM me. Thanks.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-28-2016, 01:51 PM   #12
1funryd
Elite Member
 
1funryd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Originally from Guam, back in Kent WA
Age: 47
Posts: 16,476
1funryd is a jewel in the rough1funryd is a jewel in the rough1funryd is a jewel in the rough1funryd is a jewel in the rough
Send a message via AIM to 1funryd Send a message via MSN to 1funryd Send a message via Yahoo to 1funryd

Its the little things that add up when swapping.

Just finished my H23a non vtec to H22a swap on Sunday.

Both motors are fun, that extra power though is really nice.
__________________
My Facebook page -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Sean

3rd Gen Aftermarket Manager

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
(Clik Here)
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(1Funryd - H22 Swap) - Ludcifer - INX - MustardCat(B20a)
1funryd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-28-2016, 02:28 PM   #13
bouckarooo
I am Prelude
 
Join Date: May 2011
Age: 37
Posts: 2,828
bouckarooo is a glorious beacon of lightbouckarooo is a glorious beacon of lightbouckarooo is a glorious beacon of lightbouckarooo is a glorious beacon of lightbouckarooo is a glorious beacon of lightbouckarooo is a glorious beacon of light
Coolant temperature sensor.

Knock sensors, not oil pressure sensor.

The oil pressure sensor is to the left of the filter and down a bit.
__________________
J32A 6MT w/ LSD - Soon to be boosted....Standy By.....VTEC charging...

Quote:
ban me biotches sissy lude dan hahah
kronicsmoker sh hahaha
suck it biotch
Quote:
If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
bouckarooo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2016, 04:21 PM   #14
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1funryd View Post
Its the little things that add up when swapping.

Just finished my H23a non vtec to H22a swap on Sunday.

Both motors are fun, that extra power though is really nice.
And the amount of money in your wallet
Yea! I was watching the video while getting to work yesterday. vtec baby


Quote:
Originally Posted by bouckarooo View Post
Coolant temperature sensor.

Knock sensors, not oil pressure sensor.

The oil pressure sensor is to the left of the filter and down a bit.
Thanks man. I found out what they were after a quick browse through alldata. I gotta head to the library and print out the complete wiring schematics so I can get started on my wire harness. I also have both manuals from prelude 3g.

Not sure if I can get this done by the end of summer. Money is a big limiting factor for me. Also the lack of junkyards that carry anything japanese
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2016, 06:12 PM   #15
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Been a while.

Haven't accomplished much. The build has gotten to the point where the thickness of both dedication, and your wallet are coming into effect.

Here a little update!





The rest of the car isn't painted fully. Just sprayed some color to show all the body imperfections. The bay came out great!

I'm probably going to hold back on the body for now. I've persuaded myself into getting a zenon kit for the car. The more I look at pictures of other people's wingless preludes, the more I want to remove mine. So I'm going to have to hold off until my wallet and my desires are set.

I got just about everything to rebuild the motor, rings, bearings, gasket kit. Just gotta put it together. Trying to decide if I should paint the engine first, then rebuild, or rebuild then paint. It would make sense to paint then rebuild.

I got a question for you fellow H22'ers. I've been poking around about honing my cylinder walls. I understand that they are FRM lined. A lot of sources say not to hone them and just to deglaze them. And others say to go ahead and rehone them.
I'm assuming the deglazing is the lesser effect of honing, where it removes burn marks, oil marks from the cylinder walls.

What do you guys recommend?

Also, for the tool, I got just the regular ball hone for 3-1/4, 3-1/2, and I think the other size is 3-1/8". I'd have to go back and check. I know snap-on and matco sell a tool that is actually called a de-glazer. It has 3 grit stones, and is fully adjustable from 1" - 7". But they say, that tool will remove more material then a ball hone.

I got a guy who commonly does rebuilds on american motors that says he will help me. The problem is, he mostly does american motors, like the majority of mechanics around me. Just wanted some insight from the community, with knowledge of JDM engines.

Otherwise, things are moving really slow currently. Couple of events coming up that I need my monies for, so the car will have to be on the back burner for now.

Thanks for reading!
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-21-2016, 01:20 AM   #16
cudaboy
Elite Member
 
cudaboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 340, 'Cudaville
Posts: 4,294,967,295
cudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internet
Send a message via Yahoo to cudaboy

your doing it the best way. It will be worth it to you in the end. I know from back in the day on here that the b21a1 which is also frm required a special stone that a lot of shops didn't have at the time. Your smart to spray the bay and get it done why the engine is out and wait on the exterior if needed. Only caveat I have to that is if you have the interior already gutted to fix any rust and welding on the rockers or adjacent to the interior body while it is not drivable so you don't have to take the interior out later while your driving it.

I used dupont self etching primer on the cuda 25 years ago. The only downside is if it is not sprayed over right away and sometimes even when it is you can run into problems with the sealer primer or base coat. I use and have for some time now ppg epoxy primer. I like it better and it gives a cleaner finish. Once I get done with my suspension I will start working on the body. I plan to use ppg deltron base coat and clear coat. I haven't had a chance to use the deltron line yet but I expect great results.

For areas that you are welding over or through I use copper primer. It works well and doesn't get burn off in the way normal primer does.
__________________
CUDABOY'S STRUT TOWER BAR GROUP BUY: I HAVE 1 FRONT OF BLACK ON BLACK W/SILVER BAR FRONT $150/SH +3 SETS F/R U CHOOSE COLOR MINI G.B. $265 SH.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'91 Si 4ws 5spd(black) "Black Betty"
'70 'Cuda 340 C.I.D. Alpine White, Black Vynil Top, Leather Interior, Rim Blow, Overhead Consolette. Factory Posi 3.55:1, 15" ralleyes, --Fully Loaded and Extremely Rare!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
cudaboy is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-25-2016, 09:15 AM   #17
minilogoguy18
True Luder
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 382
minilogoguy18 is on a distinguished road
You could have saved soooooooooo much money just paying a little extra for an engine from hmotorsonline.com. I just went through this with a CB7 where the customer cheaped out and bought some H22 that was $1200 including transmission and everything was so beat up that after replacing all the broken parts it came out to be more if he would have just bought from hmotors since their engines are guaranteed to be in top shape which mine personally had nothing broken on it.

Don't fuck with the cylinder walls, it'll be the worst mistake you ever made. FRM uses a very fine hone and has a mirror like finish without being able to see any cross hatch marks. Most machine shops aren't going to be familiar on how to properly machine the FRM liner and there is so little material there it can only be done a few times before the block is trash. This comes directly from the director of a Honda training center, don't ever send a block to be machined just because, it had better have some serious scratches and wear.

Google Honda SB 13-081, I have performed this repair to many Honda's that while they have only Iron liners but those are more susceptible to wear have never machined a block due to oil consumption. We just remove the pistons, clean them, replace the rings and put it back together, problem solved.

The only time you want to machine the cylinders is if there is a deep scratch that could catch your finger nail that runs the length of the bore.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

New Formula Red
93 BB2 - JDM H22A/T2W4 CL1 Euro R transmission
minilogoguy18 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-26-2016, 04:20 PM   #18
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by minilogoguy18 View Post
You could have saved soooooooooo much money just paying a little extra for an engine from hmotorsonline.com.
You're right, I could've saved more money in the long run had I bought the engine from HM or even Depot. The place I bought it was a lot closer to me and I was too excited and jumped the gun.

Quote:
Originally Posted by minilogoguy18 View Post
Don't fuck with the cylinder walls, it'll be the worst mistake you ever made. FRM uses a very fine hone and has a mirror like finish without being able to see any cross hatch marks. Most machine shops aren't going to be familiar on how to properly machine the FRM liner and there is so little material there it can only be done a few times before the block is trash. This comes directly from the director of a Honda training center, don't ever send a block to be machined just because, it had better have some serious scratches and wear.

Google Honda SB 13-081, I have performed this repair to many Honda's that while they have only Iron liners but those are more susceptible to wear have never machined a block due to oil consumption. We just remove the pistons, clean them, replace the rings and put it back together, problem solved.

The only time you want to machine the cylinders is if there is a deep scratch that could catch your finger nail that runs the length of the bore.
I tell everyone that wants me to hone the block this. I've done my research around different sources and 70% of threads I've read all say NOT to hone the cylinder walls. I was still unsure because my coworkers were all telling me to hone 'em. Ofcourse they all got 350 small blocks and 454 big blocks.

I actually don't mind changing some of these parts. If in the end I get the car running and I get an issue with a part that's not so easily accessible, I would be frustrated that I didn't change that part earlier.

Thanks for the information!
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-26-2016, 04:28 PM   #19
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
your doing it the best way. It will be worth it to you in the end.
I know from back in the day on here that the b21a1 which is also frm required a special stone that a lot of shops didn't have at the time.
Your smart to spray the bay and get it done why the engine is out and wait on the exterior if needed.
Only caveat I have to that is if you have the interior already gutted to fix any rust and welding on the rockers or adjacent to the interior body while it is not drivable so you don't have to take the interior out later while your driving it.
Thanks and it definitely will. I've slowed down a lot and am now taking things one step at a time. Before I was rushing to do just about everything at once.

I'm actually changing my mind, I won't be honing the walls

I didn't go too exotic on the bay, but after the job is done and I'm looking at the paint, there are some areas I wished I went over and patched up or throw some bondo on.

The car was kept in florida for quite some time before it made it's way to New York, which explains why the clear coat is non existent. While in New York, the car never left the garage until it was Bingo weekend.
I've looked under the carpets, removed some panels, I can't find rust anywhere on this car!
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-07-2016, 07:43 PM   #20
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Time for some updates since I fell off the list.

Saved up for a lot of parts:
- KS Tuned timing belt and manual tensioner.
(I wanted to buy the balance shaft removal with oil pump assembly but I don't think it's worth much for the price, it costs $400!)
- Water Pump, All new gaskets and seals.
- OEM MLS Head Gasket.
- OEM Valve Seals
- Rings, bearings and the whole nine yards.
- I also bought the Full Master Carbon kit for the M2B4 transmission.
- Accord half shaft, Timing cover engine bracket.
- NON-ABS 91 prelude proportioning valve.
(I was so lucky to find this. I just opened up ebay one day and this guy was selling everything I needed.)
- And other little things I can't pull off the top of my head.

I don't got much left to pick up. I gotta get tires, brakes, some more paint, axles, and a wiring harness.

Also looking into the xenon body kit and some wilwoods for the front and rear.

I brought my engine up to the college and am doing the rebuild there. My lab instructors are freaking out because they never heard of FRM walls. I showed the same procedure in 5 different manuals to them and still can't get over the fact that Honda does not require a hone unless there is deep vertical scratching. If it's too deep, the sleeve is no bueno. Plus they only allow .002" machining on the surface!

But I feel like I've reached a solid part of this build even though it's not running yet. I have a sudden urge to turbo charge the car but I really want to leave it NA. We will see as time continues.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-07-2016, 09:00 PM   #21
Buffer3
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: 1000 Islands Canada
Posts: 80
Buffer3 is on a distinguished road
I had a 90 SR red, now have a 91 SR Black. I am rebuilding all original...(now it is a ground up restore)...only rebuilding the motor and super pro'ing the suspension. Everything else will remain OEM...
Like what you are doing thus far..keep it up!

Last edited by Buffer3; 11-07-2016 at 09:02 PM.
Buffer3 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-10-2016, 07:30 PM   #22
SupremeDalek209
Getting Comfortable
 
SupremeDalek209's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Stockton
Posts: 79
SupremeDalek209 is on a distinguished road
Keep up the great work!!
__________________
"Bite my shiny metal ass" Bender Bending Rodriguez

My Del Sol Build Thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
SupremeDalek209 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-02-2016, 10:48 AM   #23
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffer3 View Post
I had a 90 SR red, now have a 91 SR Black. I am rebuilding all original...(now it is a ground up restore)...only rebuilding the motor and super pro'ing the suspension. Everything else will remain OEM...
Like what you are doing thus far..keep it up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SupremeDalek209 View Post
Keep up the great work!!
Thanks!

Everything was being assembled together perfectly until we ran into the piston rings. The oil rings were having a hard time fitting right into the piston groove. Everytime we went to compress it and install they would pop out when we tapped them down.

I'm not sure if it's the improper tool we're using maybe there is a special H22 piston ring compressor. We've tried 4 different compressors and couldn't get the piston down past the top oil ring.

We thought it may have been an issue with the aftermarket NPR rings even though all the gap clearance was in spec. We tried to use the old oil rings just to test for fitment and we can't even get those to fit.

This is a pretty good kick in the ass, especially since I only have one more lab left. If we can't figure out something I'm going to toss everything out the window and do a full turbo build. Which I am actually leaning towards.

Did some searching around and haven't found nothing yet. I'm going to keep researching.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-02-2016, 04:08 PM   #24
cudaboy
Elite Member
 
cudaboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 340, 'Cudaville
Posts: 4,294,967,295
cudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internetcudaboy is the King of the Internet
Send a message via Yahoo to cudaboy

check http://www.raceeng.com/c-237-engine-builder-tools.aspx

they sell wiseco tapered solid one piece ring compressors.
__________________
CUDABOY'S STRUT TOWER BAR GROUP BUY: I HAVE 1 FRONT OF BLACK ON BLACK W/SILVER BAR FRONT $150/SH +3 SETS F/R U CHOOSE COLOR MINI G.B. $265 SH.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'91 Si 4ws 5spd(black) "Black Betty"
'70 'Cuda 340 C.I.D. Alpine White, Black Vynil Top, Leather Interior, Rim Blow, Overhead Consolette. Factory Posi 3.55:1, 15" ralleyes, --Fully Loaded and Extremely Rare!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by cudaboy; 12-02-2016 at 04:16 PM.
cudaboy is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-02-2016, 05:36 PM   #25
imGenoo
Getting Comfortable
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: New York
Posts: 60
imGenoo is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaboy View Post
check http://www.raceeng.com/c-237-engine-builder-tools.aspx

they sell wiseco tapered solid one piece ring compressors.
I just purchased one. Thanks for the website. I ordered the 87mm one because our pistons are around 86.9mm. Not sure how long fed ex shipping will take but hopefully they get here soon.

We've decided to give it one last try. I went and ordered OEM honda rings. A lot pricier then I thought for some rings but quality comes with a price.

If this doesn't work, then I will just turbo the thing. I'm not going to get new pistons for stock replacement. If I have to buy a new set then I'm going big.
imGenoo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Honda Prelude Forum : Honda Prelude Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Security Question
Type the last 3 characters on the Prelude license plate displayed at the top left of the page: FSV _ _ _
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:32 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vB.Sponsors
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2002 - 2011, Preludepower.com
PreludePower Forums