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Old 02-19-2012, 08:09 AM   #26
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absolutely fantastic. subscribed.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:16 AM   #27
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What I love most about it is how clean everything is. And the fact its a 3rd gen... All you 3rd genners take such good care of your cars it always makes me want one.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:27 AM   #28
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I want to know how you got it that clean! Looks great! Can you do mine next??
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:44 PM   #29
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It's disgusting how fast this thing is coming together. Fantastic work bro.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:25 PM   #30
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Day 6-7:


Cleaned front Ksports:



Pulling B20:




B20 vs H22:



No fit:




Cut so I can get a bolt in there:



H22 ready to go in:



Since my B20 alt. has less than 100 miles on it I wanted to reuse it, it's a direct fit once you drill out the lower hole so the H22 bolt can slide through:



H22 in:



The shaded area's will need to be removed as they are touching the valve cover:



Ground clearance, jeeze:



As it sits:





Yeah so I hate the AZ mounts, every mount needed to be slotted in some way. Plus the P/S belt is still touching the chassis, valve cover touching the hood, WTF. I can already see a future project where I clearance the rear cross member near the tranny case, then remake new steel portions of the mounts to bring the motor further back, and 1/4" to the passenger side.

More gripes is with the explicit speed traction bar, I'm pretty sure the radius rods supplied with it are too long. I measured 19 1/4" from the front crossmember mount bolt to the center of the lower balljoint on either side with the stock radius rods. But with the ES radius rods adjusted to minimal length I'm only able to get 19 1/2", fucked. The radius rods need to be 1/2" shorter is my guess, more money I will have to spend in the future buying new radius rods.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:54 PM   #31
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wow man u got the short end of the stick in this build. not dissing on sean or his products but i was sketchy on the az mounts at first, when i do my f swap i was plannin gon buying the esp kit, wont be going with the traction bar due to funds, but im not lowered more than 2 inches,

again sorry to here about the issues, suggestion would be to email esp with pictures and asking them whats up, im sure they would send replacement radius rods at the correct length


keep up the good work and good luck
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:18 PM   #32
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I am sorry Dave about the brackets, that was the last set every sent out from AZ Race, so we cant do anything about that.

Call me and I will see if I can work something out with you on the brackets issue.

206-304-4095

And Horny, as to the quality of the mounts, they are still the best out there, but due to AZ Race going under, there is no recourse for Dave to get a new driver bracket, which would have been taken cared of by AZ Race and Machine.

I will be reworking this bracket issue on my own.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:39 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by 1funryd View Post
I am sorry Dave about the brackets, that was the last set every sent out from AZ Race, so we cant do anything about that.

Call me and I will see if I can work something out with you on the brackets issue.

206-304-4095

And Horny, as to the quality of the mounts, they are still the best out there, but due to AZ Race going under, there is no recourse for Dave to get a new driver bracket, which would have been taken cared of by AZ Race and Machine.

I will be reworking this bracket issue on my own.
I was gonna say i dident think we had to do that when droping your h23 in. It sad they would send anything out like that even if the encomey is tough and they went under

I need to take off the front coilover of and clean them up, love the detail!! keep at it bro!!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:30 PM   #34
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Ok so using a giant pry bar between the mount and chassis I was able to shift the motor towards the passenger side a hair and got a small gap between the P/S belt and chassis. The upper mount bolt is at it's limit though, I'm going to back it up with a larger washer for now:



Turns out I sent Sean a 5th gen P/S pump line and it doesn't fit on the earlier pump, so I had to weld a new fitting on the bit of line that came with the swap:






I'm using a hytech replica header and it hangs quite a bit lower than the pan, for no apparent reason. So I cut it down so it hugs the bottom of the pan:







After fixing the P/S issues I mostly worked on the exhaust today. Welded a flex to and flange to the downpipe, plus added extra O2 bungs:




Started on the exhaust system, it will have a 3" high flow cat, 2 glasspacks, and a turbo style muffler. I'm hoping these keep it reasonably quiet, because I hate a loud exhaust:

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Old 02-21-2012, 09:58 PM   #35
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awesome work!!! in for more pics!
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:56 PM   #36
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More.



Because my mounts are off my tranny fill bolt is very close to the rear crossmember. In fact to get it out required a huge prybar to shift the motor forward enough to get it out. So I shaved the head down a bit to help things, it still needs a prybar but it's not as bad:



Here is what the ECU end of the rywire harness looks like, the injector resistor box needs to be mounted close to the ECU and the connector on the right has various wires that need to be spliced into the stock ECU plugs:



Front-end, radiator + misc stuff installed:



Mocking up intake:




Cooling after welding:



Finished, in the future I think I will wrap it with black exhaust wrap when I do the header:



Modified accord shifter base to match 3g lude bolt pattern:





That's it for pics. I did a lot of other work the last two days taking care of loose ends, that sort of thing, but nothing worth a picture.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:04 PM   #37
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This looks great. Progressing quickly,too.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:07 PM   #38
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Coming along very Nicely Dave.

I am going to make sure that the old AZ Race mount brackets are resolved. I dont like how tight he fit is.

I have the brackets cut so its all about how the welding and holes line up.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:07 AM   #39
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Looking great MC, I just bought a welder and cant wait to fab up my own shit, your a great inspiration to fellow luders
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:18 AM   #40
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Coming along very Nicely Dave.

I am going to make sure that the old AZ Race mount brackets are resolved. I dont like how tight he fit is.

I have the brackets cut so its all about how the welding and holes line up.
You're making new mounts? In a weird way I don't mind these so much now, because it just means the motor is as far back and high up as it will go without cross member cutting.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:32 AM   #41
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You're making new mounts? In a weird way I don't mind these so much now, because it just means the motor is as far back and high up as it will go without cross member cutting.
Yes I am.

I already have the brackets made, so I can have them redone. I will work on the brackets which are the main reason the motor will sit oddly.

I was told the person who welded the last batch of brackets messed up and that was why AZ had issues.
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:08 PM   #42
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Why 3 o2 bungs i know wideband and o2 sensor. so why the 3rd lol
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:12 PM   #43
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:51 PM   #44
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Nice work man, I love the look of the motor install, especially the intake. You always see 3rd gen's with H22 swaps with these little intakes resting just above the tranny. I've never been a fan of them, glad you went all the way and custom made one that works and looks awesome. Rep for you!
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:58 PM   #45
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As to the bungs: Stock O2, my wideband, and extra bung for tuners wideband. (I figure they would want to use their own)



No pictures today because it was mostly wiring. Started the car and drove up and down the block real quick, problems encountered:

Rywire harness not 100%:

The main relay uses ground 101, the one at the t-stat housing. The rywire harness has this location, but the relay doesn't ground to it anymore. So with no ground, the main relay doesn't work, no fuel pump and no power to the ECU. I did a quick test jumper today and tomorrow I will need to add a permanent new ground for the relay.

Need to run 1 wire from the alt. connector to near the fuse box, this is the charging warning light and rywire didn't supply it. (or even mention that it needed to be added.)



Other issues:

The left-to-right movement shifter cable is bad so I need to swap in my spare. This actually isn't the horror you would imagine because there is a lot more room to work at the lower firewall with the H compared to the B.

And the big one, cylinder #1 not getting any fuel! Need to run through the troubleshoot procedure for this.

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Old 02-24-2012, 10:48 PM   #46
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Question? The plug in that is sitting on the pass side motor mount, I know that plug connects to the the B20a5 engine harness and some of the wires run to the fuse box, how does Rywire wire that in or is it even needed, I know some of the wires in that plug on the b20 engine harness runs to the shock tower/fender harness also.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:49 AM   #47
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The intake is covering it but rywire actually has a second smaller harness that plugs into that then runs into the cabin to plug into the main harness, so it is still used.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:56 AM   #48
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One of the injectors was bad so I stuck my new ones in, runs fine now. Also ran the new alt. charge warning light wire, so that is working.

I replaced the "bad" shifter cable but the new one is doing the same thing. If I move the shifter to the left in the 1-2 range and let go it slowly moves back to center. If I move it to the right for 5-R it snaps back to center like it should. I disconnected the cable from the trans and the trans arm seems to move fine either direction, maybe this is a common problem? This is going to cause me to miss a shift if I leave it like it is.

There is a strong pulsation in the steering wheel if I try and go over 20, the driver side axle has some play on the inner joint where it meets the half-shaft. It's fully seated and is brand new from raxles, this is only a guess at this point because this could be normal for H22's.

When I took it for a test drive yesterday I ALREADY dented the downpipe turning around in a drive way. Also the header leaks at the slip fit joints I had to cut down, I was expecting this though and I think some exhaust sealant should fix it.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:22 AM   #49
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Great work on the swap. Very clean. Hope you work out the little stuff.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:33 PM   #50
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One of the injectors was bad so I stuck my new ones in, runs fine now. Also ran the new alt. charge warning light wire, so that is working.

I replaced the "bad" shifter cable but the new one is doing the same thing. If I move the shifter to the left in the 1-2 range and let go it slowly moves back to center. If I move it to the right for 5-R it snaps back to center like it should. I disconnected the cable from the trans and the trans arm seems to move fine either direction, maybe this is a common problem? This is going to cause me to miss a shift if I leave it like it is.

There is a strong pulsation in the steering wheel if I try and go over 20, the driver side axle has some play on the inner joint where it meets the half-shaft. It's fully seated and is brand new from raxles, this is only a guess at this point because this could be normal for H22's.

When I took it for a test drive yesterday I ALREADY dented the downpipe turning around in a drive way. Also the header leaks at the slip fit joints I had to cut down, I was expecting this though and I think some exhaust sealant should fix it.
Dave if there is play in the axle then call Marty and ask him about that, because I do not have that issue.

And as to the pulsing, I would think wheel bearing first, but that would be my first thought.
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