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Old 12-19-2013, 05:30 PM   #8176
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Thanks andrew, so custom or wrapped.... I have some unused bolt holes around that area so Ill fab up a sheild and wrap it hahaha.

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Old 12-19-2013, 05:41 PM   #8177
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Does the stock heat shield work with pacesetter header? Or should I wrap it? I don't like the thought of wrapping cause of the horror stories.

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What horror stories? I've been using wrapped headers on my Chevy truck for years. And the OBX header on my lude is wrapped too.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:42 PM   #8178
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What horror stories? I've been using wrapped headers on my Chevy truck for years. And the OBX header on my lude is wrapped too.
The ones where wraps caused cracks and splits, I know it doesn't happen all the time, mostly caused by not knowing what ones doing (me), are your headers stainless? Mines a mild steel which is where I mostly see the problems. I watched my neighbor unwrap his, which came out in chunks.

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Old 12-23-2013, 06:41 PM   #8179
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Got my oil cooler hose replaced, then I seen a white 90-91 with a body kit and possibly 18" multi spoke rims turn around at little ceasars. Why you ignore me braaahh? Lol

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Old 12-26-2013, 11:50 PM   #8180
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Not prelude related, but I bought a spare 2jz, and found rat shit inside cylinder 1

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Old 12-27-2013, 10:35 AM   #8181
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Lol rat shit=more compression!

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Old 12-27-2013, 11:03 AM   #8182
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Lol rat shit=more compression!

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LOL definately surprising when we pulled the head off. That engine is at the machine shop right now. Everything was still in factory spec, so aside from the rat crap, I came out okay.

ACL main and rod bearings
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cometic mls head gasket
knife edged, polished, and balanced crank.
everything hot tanked
Milled head
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port and polish

Looking for 400hp with low boost.
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Old 12-27-2013, 11:34 AM   #8183
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The ones where wraps caused cracks and splits, I know it doesn't happen all the time, mostly caused by not knowing what ones doing (me), are your headers stainless? Mines a mild steel which is where I mostly see the problems. I watched my neighbor unwrap his, which came out in chunks.

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I don't think I would wrap a mild steel header. It seems like it would trap moisture when the exhaust is cold, and then promote rust.

Yes, mine is stainless (OBX). I haven't read anything bad about wrapping stainless headers. Do you have anything you could link?
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:26 AM   #8184
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I don't think I would wrap a mild steel header. It seems like it would trap moisture when the exhaust is cold, and then promote rust.

Yes, mine is stainless (OBX). I haven't read anything bad about wrapping stainless headers. Do you have anything you could link?
http://www.google.com/search?site=&s...11.nb7g0WSyIVM

Ill let you go from there lol
Stainless seems to be fine when wrapped, its the mild steel headers like my pacesetter that have the problems.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:40 PM   #8185
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I don't like bumper stickers and this won't probably stay on very long, but it's funny because I live maybe 2000 miles from the nearest Buc-ee's.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 01-01-2014, 04:32 PM   #8186
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Added the window visors and anti-glare mirror tint today.
Also installed a set of component speakers ,still working to finish hiding wires.
The mirror tint is a darker blue than I expected so not sure how long I'll keep that on.


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Old 01-01-2014, 05:32 PM   #8187
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Nice!! Thanks for reminding me I want a pair of those.
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:23 PM   #8188
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Thats a huge cock!



Someone should caption this for my sig.

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Old 01-03-2014, 04:11 PM   #8189
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worked on the lude and have to replace the headgasket errr. what else should I replace while im taking it apart.
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Old 01-03-2014, 07:31 PM   #8190
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worked on the lude and have to replace the headgasket errr. what else should I replace while im taking it apart.
not sure if your taking off the im but if you do I would buy new paper gaskets for it. Heard their usually torn once split open.
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:08 AM   #8191
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MEH... not to shabby I'll keep trying.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:13 AM   #8192
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:40 AM   #8193
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I think in '87 the engineers at Honda got the bean counters drunk on sake before having them sign off on the Prelude design.
"W-wait! Why are the shifter cables adjustable? No one is ever going to..."
"A toast to your health!
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:57 PM   #8194
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Installed new exhaust rear section and muffler for about $35 total after my AutoZone discount and rewards store credit. This was more of an impulse temporary fix until I build my full exhaust.

- Thrush Turbo muffler from AutoZone (2.5" OD, 2.125" ID).
- 2.25" Strait-pipe.
- 2.25" Flexible pipe.
- 3x Exhaust clamps.
-1x Universal exhaust hanger.

Original Problem: Magnaflow catalytic converter apparently melted and blew chunks into the old Flowmaster muffler and rear section. I could hear the shit rattle around inside when driving or just kicking the muffler with my foot. It would randomly lose top end and I could hear a noise from it like gasses were being forced through the mid-pipe somewhere. Turns out, the resonator has a bunch of holes rusted through now too. When I pulled the old muffler and rear section, there was a lot of small shrapnel and some larger pieces rattling around inside.

Now, it has a very low, vintage rumble sound to it. I was hoping it would quiet down some, but it only hushed the mids and highs. The low sound is still a bit loud. Fast though. It revs up to redline in a split second now when the secondary IAB's open.

Here is what I'd like to buy in the next couple months or so:

Resonator Flowtech Red Hots Mufflers 50252FLT $19
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bi...2flt/overview/


2.5" Cherry Bomb Mandrel Bends 320465 $14
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/imm-320465/overview/


2.5" Strait-Pipe 4 ft Summit Racing® Exhaust Tubing SUM-640025-1 $14
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...25-1/overview/


Universal Walker Exhaust Hangers 35005 $3/ea for 3x or 4x
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-35005/overview/


Possibly a couple of these connecting the rear section up:
2.5" Summit Racing® Band Clamps SUM-693250 $6.97

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-693250/overview/

Also maybe a cheap adapter to reduce from 2.5" to the 2.25" rear section. After I square away all that, I hope to be making more money and I can buy this:

QTP QTEC25CPS 2.5" Electric Exhaust Valve & SS Cutout $222
Amazon Amazon


^I would wire the B20a5's IAB solenoid to a relay that would activate give me full open downpipe at 4500 RPM's. Well, I might put a resonator on it or something else. I would also flatten out a pipe and have it exhaust out to the right-rear wheel.
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:09 PM   #8195
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Are you implying something... Lol



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Old 01-04-2014, 04:06 PM   #8196
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I like it, I couldn't get it to load a bit ago

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Old 01-04-2014, 09:02 PM   #8197
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Quote:
Also maybe a cheap adapter to reduce from 2.5" to the 2.25" rear section.
So you plan to go down in size? Not a good way to do things.


Quote:
^I would wire the B20a5's IAB solenoid to a relay that would activate give me full open downpipe at 4500 RPM's.
All that time/effort/money just to make a lot more noise?
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:04 PM   #8198
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Are you implying something... Lol
I think it was an inference rather than an implication

Or maybe just an observation.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:20 PM   #8199
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So you plan to go down in size? Not a good way to do things.



All that time/effort/money just to make a lot more noise?
Yep I'd reduce in size until I buy a muffler that is 2.5". No sense in having all that 2.5" pipe and no muffler, right?

More noise is better for everything
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:50 PM   #8200
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I think it was an inference rather than an implication

Or maybe just an observation.
My heart hurts now

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