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Old 10-24-2019, 11:00 PM   #1
MomoLudeBlk
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H22a swap!

Hey guys I'm kinda new to this whole forum thing but I just need some help with my build. So I had a auto 00 lude which got converted to manual and swapped with the h22a and lsd trans (euro r).
Because the body was in such bad shape I bought another 00 silver lude with a blown h22a4. Now I am looking to go ahead and put my h22a into the new prelude but once I took out my h22a out my old lude I see a bunch of hacked shit lol. The whole wiring harness has been cut and adjusted I guess u can say. I guess the reason being is that it's a full h22a swap like I got the same injectors and throttle body and same distributor which I am reading now shoukdve been swapped over from the h22a4. Now I am wondering is there a clean way to do this job? Meaning keep everything that I have from the h22a (throttle body, injectors etc) but get rid of the hacked wiring harness. Also I'm pretty sure I have a obd2 ecu but it definitely does not act like one. Any tips feel free I really appreciate it!.
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Old 10-30-2019, 11:28 PM   #2
skissor
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Should be able to swap the good harness over and switch these parts if you still the a4. Found on this site https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.pre...83010/%3famp=1

Moved over the following from the old H22A4 motor: a) Wiring Harness (OBD-II) b) Distributor c) Coolant Thermostat Housing d) Oil Pump Housing e) Crank Position Sensor and Top Dead Sensor (attached to OBD-II oil pump) f) Exhaust header (JDM 4th Gen is different) g) Intake manifold (if not using 5G IM, then move your fuel injectors over and get a 4G MAP sensor) h) Knock sensor (BE VERY CAREFUL TAKING THIS OFF, THE CONNECTOR BREAKS EASILY) i) Oil Pressure Sensor j) Oil Pan & baffle k) Oil Pan/Transmission Stiffener l) Various gears from the timing belt side (crank gears especially - required for CKP/TDC sensors) m) VTEC solenoid pressure switch (the connector seemed to be different on the H22A one?
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:34 PM   #3
LokRobster
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To make it the engine control match up with a 5sp LSD transmission, and get the most out of the hardware, it's probably a chipped OBD1 computer. The hacks (and probably a good tune) are what make it run now.

If you're converting back to OBD2 and getting rid of the electrical hack job, you're basically talking about redoing the swap design and going about it differently, but more simply, and will need to follow the link shared by skissor...
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