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Old 09-18-2012, 10:42 PM   #1
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rywire H22 swap harness ?

First off I would like to say that the rywire harness is not very good for 3rd gen preludes, they give no instructions for all these extra wires and it leaves you in the ahhhh fuck mode.
the brown/white(service check signal) wire, Rywire says to connect to b5 brown on the EF chassis
question #1. B5 or Brown wire on the 88-89 preludes is one of the wires for the jumper plug for setting the ignition timing, is this the same as the service check signal wire on the EF.


question #2. there is a pin missing on the rywire harness, the missing pin is supposed to connect White/green wire on the prelude fender harness, any clues on what this is for

connects to this jumper green arrow
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:39 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rev_rage View Post
First off I would like to say that the rywire harness is not very good for 3rd gen preludes, they give no instructions for all these extra wires and it leaves you in the ahhhh fuck mode.
the brown/white(service check signal) wire, Rywire says to connect to b5 brown on the EF chassis
question #1. B5 or Brown wire on the 88-89 preludes is one of the wires for the jumper plug for setting the ignition timing, is this the same as the service check signal wire on the EF.


question #2. there is a pin missing on the rywire harness, the missing pin is supposed to connect Yellow/red wire on the prelude fender harness, any clues on what this is for


connects to this jumper green arrow

Rev the two red arrows are the AC relays, so dont worry about those.

It looks like the white connector connects to the external ignitor that comes stock on our chassis.

Unless you ordered the internal ignitor wiring for the H22 distributor.

The two blow arrows are pointing to the fan connectors if I am correct.

And the one green arrow points to that a weird harness that I do not know the name of, I would ask MustardCat about that one.
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:55 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1funryd View Post
Rev the two red arrows are the AC relays, so dont worry about those.

It looks like the white connector connects to the external ignitor that comes stock on our chassis.

Unless you ordered the internal ignitor wiring for the H22 distributor.

The two blow arrows are pointing to the fan connectors if I am correct.

And the one green arrow points to that a weird harness that I do not know the name of, I would ask MustardCat about that one.
I am not asking about the red arrows(AC relay's) or the blue arrows(Radiator fan & sensor) just the green arrow.

Rywire H22 harness connections are made for Internal coil distributors. External coils are a custom option and cost more. I have a JDM internal dizzy

the Clean white connector on the 2nd pic connects to the plug that the green arrow is pointing too, but the white plug is missing one wire,
on the Green arrow plug that wire is Yellow/red, I do remember musturdcat posting about that one wire but he did not say where that Yellow/red leads too.

the white connector does not plug into the ignitor
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:43 AM   #4
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isn't that the plug for the alternator?
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:38 AM   #5
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The green arrow is the OEM chassis to primary fuse box plug, this is where the Rywire chassis adapter plugs in. This plug connects ecu power, ecu ground, and so forth.
Rywire separated out the charge wires from thier chassis adapter which is the missing pin.

The missing pin you speak of is the hot (charge) wire from the alternator to the battery.

They offer a package with alternator and starter hot wires also, separating the alternator hot wire will reduce/isolate electronic noise and as a result it is not integrated, also since this harness is intended to be tucked it is ideal to seperate out the alternator charge wire.

Run alt charge wire separate to the harness from the fuse box to the alternator...this is what Rywire intends for you to do.







*Don't panic, once you get it setup you'll see it is actually quite simple and removes a lot of redundant oem wiring.*



Note: Mustardcat had to ground his main relay (90-91). I did not have to do this (88-89). Doing so in my case actually kicks on the fuel pump, I'm not sure why he needed to do this, but I didn't.
Here is the image he supplied =>
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Last edited by Forza; 09-19-2012 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:33 AM   #6
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This thread scares me.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forza View Post
The green arrow is the OEM chassis to primary fuse box plug, this is where the Rywire chassis adapter plugs in. This plug connects ecu power, ecu ground, and so forth.
Rywire separated out the charge wires from thier chassis adapter which is the missing pin.

The missing pin you speak of is the hot (charge) wire from the alternator to the battery.

They offer a package with alternator and starter hot wires also, separating the alternator hot wire will reduce/isolate electronic noise and as a result it is not integrated, also since this harness is intended to be tucked it is ideal to seperate out the alternator charge wire.

Run alt charge wire separate to the harness from the fuse box to the alternator...this is what Rywire intends for you to do.
First off I made the mistake of Identifying that missing wire as Yellow/red when its White/green. I will edit my first post

that being said, I understand that the missing wire is soppesed to be connected to the green plug which connects to the ALT/voltage regulator on the b20 ALT, if rywire removed this how do you regulate the voltage? is the voltage regulator eliminated on the green plug for JDM H22's or is the Voltage R. connected to the ALT main power terminal on the H.

thanks for helping
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rev_rage View Post
First off I made the mistake of Identifying that missing wire as Yellow/red when its White/green. I will edit my first post

that being said, I understand that the missing wire is soppesed to be connected to the green plug which connects to the ALT/voltage regulator on the b20 ALT, if rywire removed this how do you regulate the voltage? is the voltage regulator eliminated on the green plug for JDM H22's or is the Voltage R. connected to the ALT main power terminal on the H.

thanks for helping
The missing wire does not connect to the green alternator plug which contains voltage regulation circuitry.

The missing wire is the conduit for transmitting alternator output to the battery, typically this is a larger gauge wire.

Charge Voltage Regulation occurs just as it would stock...via a pin on the ecu that the harness plugs into.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:17 PM   #9
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According to the OBD1 pinout that wire is supposed to go to a16 ALT control, and musturdcat says you need to run a line from the green plug



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Old 09-19-2012, 03:33 PM   #10
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According to Mustardcat's site that is the charge warning indicator light not the ALT Control.

I would call Rywire on this and get answers since all of their harnesses are fundamentally the same.
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:53 PM   #11
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rev rage
i hear you, i had the worst experience in my 49 years of products i bought.
a total waist of time over 1 1/2 years to get it right in my 91 with a h22a
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:27 PM   #12
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According to the diagram located here:
http://www.preludebible.com/service-...alternator.pdf

White/green goes to the voltage regulator. The white/blue > black/yellow is the charge warning light.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:32 PM   #13
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I hope Sean can get this other company on board, because i have about had it with Rywire!
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:05 PM   #14
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There seems to be much confusion here...

Question 1: Rywire BRN/WHT does indeed go to B5 (BRN) on your OBD0 harness. SCS and jumper plug are the same thing.

Question 2: With the rywire harness you have to run two separate wires from the alt to the fuse box area:

First one is the larger wire that attaches to the stud on the alt, this wire runs directly into the fusebox. (I just cut this one out of the useless JDM harness that came with my H22.)

Second, you will see that the green alt plug on the rywire harness is missing one wire. You add this and run it to the missing pin in this plug:


This is simply the wire for the charge warning light and is technically not required, but if you don't add it your charge warning light will be on.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustardCat View Post
There seems to be much confusion here...

Question 1: Rywire BRN/WHT does indeed go to B5 (BRN) on your OBD0 harness. SCS and jumper plug are the same thing.

Question 2: With the rywire harness you have to run two separate wires from the alt to the fuse box area:

First one is the larger wire that attaches to the stud on the alt, this wire runs directly into the fusebox. (I just cut this one out of the useless JDM harness that came with my H22.)

Second, you will see that the green alt plug on the rywire harness is missing one wire. You add this and run it to the missing pin in this plug:

This is simply the wire for the charge warning light and is technically not required, but if you don't add it your charge warning light will be on.
Thanks for clearing up question #1, I wasn't sure cause I have never heard of it being called SCS before, I always called it the jumper plug.

Ok here are some pics of the green plug from the, H22, b20a5 and Rywire harness.
This is the ALT plug from my JDM harness, it does have all 4 wires just like the b20 and like the b20 harness all the wires match in color

Here's a picture of the B20 ALT plug

here's the rywire harness ALT plug

as you can see the WHT/GRN wire is missing.
Here's the factory manual for the b20 showing that the WHT/GRN wire runs from the voltage regulater to the underhood fuse panel

H22 diagram showing the same thing

So why is this wiring missing, why did rywire not include this into there harness

The only thing I can think of at this point is the other wires are regulating the voltage.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:01 AM   #16
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Heres the issue of the rywire harness regarding the resistor box.
Heres a pic of musturdcats Rywire harness and resister box, notice his has the grey plug and is hooked up to the JDM box

Heres a pic of my rywire Harness. B20a5 R-box is on the left, JDM r-box on the right, but why does my harness have the plug for the b20a5 R-box and not the JDM. I contacted Rywire and they said it would work. I am not to familiar on how R-boxes but I think JDM injectors and 3rd gen injectors are both low Independence correct?
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:34 PM   #17
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so I contacted rywire ans asked why is the White/green voltage regulator wire missing from the Green ALT plug, I cross referenced the B20a5 and H22 stock harness and both have that wire.
there response was Ya thats correct, we dont use it. thanks
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:33 PM   #18
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Well, the harness looks good on the outside, so customers buy it. Right?

Ya I see this type of thing a lot now. Corners are cut and quality suffers, yet the product looks nice.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:19 AM   #19
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In Rywire's defense it is a component that is commonly disabled whilst tuning using Hondata, Neptune, Chrome, EcTune, etc...

My understanding is the Honda obd1 alternator's have an internal voltage controller as well (although I could be wrong).

I know each tuner that has touched my car disabled it first thing over the years.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:39 PM   #20
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More rywire issues

I was doing a final check of the engine before I hooked up the s300 and came across another rywire issue. Looking at the labels for the wiring and noticed that I had the IACV plug connected to the IAT sensor, the IACV connector had longer wires then the IAC connector so I assumed that the longer wire was supposed to connect to the IAT sensor. So now I tried to switch the connectors to the right position but there is not enough slack in the wiring and will cause tension with the other connectors, like the water sensors. So now I starting to think that rywire either didn't make the wires long enough, or labeled them wrong so now I have to pull out the multimeter and check for continuity with the ecu plugs.

If anyone is planning on getting a rywire harness I would strongly advise not buying one, first they have a missing voltage regulator wire, and now I have to deal with IAT/IACV connectors. I know its not that hard to extend the wires or check for continuity, but when a customer spends 750$ on a harness they shouldn't have to worry about simple problems like this. I also just read that 4wsRyan(aka Blahblah311) has to have is harness sent back to rywire, not sure if this is rywire's fault but it sounds like they messed up on his connectors
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:46 PM   #21
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I was able to maneuver the the wiring enough to connect the IAT, it still is really tight and it most likely cause problems in the future but I will extend the wire a little and everything should be ok. I also checked the connector with the ECU pin and they were labeled correct.
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