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Old 08-16-2012, 10:42 AM   #1
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Burning oil

My prelude burning oil from somewhere, blue smoke comes out the muffler, a slow leak. Before I start checking the engine (h22a4) I just wanna hear some ideas on what it can be. Thanks
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:51 AM   #2
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How much smoke? When do you see it? (Take-off, VTEC, etc.)

H22 engines burn oil from the factory. Keep it topped off. Staying in the lower RPMs and out of VTEC will help a little bit.

Average consumption is 1 quart every 3k miles.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:07 AM   #3
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When I take-off and im using quaker synthetic oil

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Originally Posted by schmitty915 View Post
How much smoke? When do you see it? (Take-off, VTEC, etc.)

H22 engines burn oil from the factory. Keep it topped off. Staying in the lower RPMs and out of VTEC will help a little bit.

Average consumption is 1 quart every 3k miles.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:14 AM   #4
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The FRM sleeves in the block cause piston ring wear, which leads to oil burning. It's normal for B21A1 and H22/H23 Preludes. How many miles?
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:24 AM   #5
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I notice mine burns a bit out the muffler when it's fully topped up, but that might just be that I'm looking out the back more after a top up.

But yeah how many miles are on your Lude?
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by xxfallacyxx View Post
The FRM sleeves in the block cause piston ring wear, which leads to oil burning. It's normal for B21A1 and H22/H23 Preludes. How many miles?
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:27 PM   #7
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Have your engine compression tested. The oil is either making its way into the combustion camber around the rings or through the valve stem seals. If your compression test is ok, then you need the head rebuilt. If the compression test is bad (assuming the valves are properly adjusted and the seats are good), your rings/cylinder walls are worn.
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:02 PM   #8
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Ok I will get that tested

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Originally Posted by realblag View Post
Have your engine compression tested. The oil is either making its way into the combustion camber around the rings or through the valve stem seals. If your compression test is ok, then you need the head rebuilt. If the compression test is bad (assuming the valves are properly adjusted and the seats are good), your rings/cylinder walls are worn.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masonprelude View Post
When I take-off and im using quaker synthetic oil
And stop using this junk. Quakerstate is bad, and on an old engine I would not be running syntethic. You should be running regular or at most semi-synthetic oil.
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You'll need to just push it into place and try and line it up with the holes. It is quite awkward and can take a bit of time to get them to line up.
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have a friend push it in while you line it up
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:38 AM   #10
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Oops ok

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And stop using this junk. Quakerstate is bad, and on an old engine I would not be running syntethic. You should be running regular or at most semi-synthetic oil.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masonprelude View Post
Oops ok
There is oil thread on here somewhere but also stay away from royal purple (full synthetic anyway).
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You'll need to just push it into place and try and line it up with the holes. It is quite awkward and can take a bit of time to get them to line up.
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have a friend push it in while you line it up
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:09 AM   #12
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So dont use synthetic oil at all?

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There is oil thread on here somewhere but also stay away from royal purple (full synthetic anyway).
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:35 AM   #13
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So dont use synthetic oil at all?
I wouldn't and don't. I run semi. Synthetic is not the best to use on older motors for the seals sake.
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You'll need to just push it into place and try and line it up with the holes. It is quite awkward and can take a bit of time to get them to line up.
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have a friend push it in while you line it up
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:29 PM   #14
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OH EM GEEEEE.....

This is not an issue with oil type used.

Make sure your oil is 5w30 or 10w30. You can use coventional, semi syn, or full syn.

Usually you will have more oil consumption with synthetic oil. This can get expensive for you. You would need to be on top of your oil levels all the time--which you should be anyway!!

A lot of times going from convential to full syn on a motor that speant 100K miles on convential can sludge up the engine. Full syn will break loose the sludge built up from abuse on convential oil. This just means your first couple oil intervals on syn should be a bit premature.

Full syn has the ability to leak easier than convential due to molecule size.

No matter what--if you have a seal leaking you need to replace it. If you go from convential to syn and find a leaking seal it has to be replaced! Does not matter what oil your using at the point the seal was bad anyway!

For the record, I use Mobile 1 5w30 full syn. I check my oil level every other day if not everyday. I run my engine

If you do a compression test yourself. With the engine cold, break the spark plugs loose. Then tighten them to 16 ft lbs. Run the engine until warm. Remove the spark plugs. Check battery voltage. Verify its 12+V. Place your foot on the throttle and fully depress. Run the compression test on a cylinder and record results. Check voltage on the battery again between each test. Record the voltage if you like. If you get a cylinder where the numbers are low, add a teaspoon or so of oil into the cylinder chamber. Run the compression test again for that cylinder and record results. If you see an increase in numbers after adding a teaspoon of oil then you can be certain you have an issue with the piston rings. If you see no change then you can still have an issue with the piston rings or other issues.
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:19 PM   #15
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OH EM GEEEEE.....

This is not an issue with oil type used.
...Never said it was, I noticed he said he is using synthetic which is rough on the seals especially at his mileage. This is not an oil thread, as I pointed out there is one already. I said it in passing.
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You'll need to just push it into place and try and line it up with the holes. It is quite awkward and can take a bit of time to get them to line up.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:41 PM   #16
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OUr shop bb6 tends to burn oil but only typically when going into v-tech, we have replaced the rear main seal as it decided to pour oil out.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:41 PM   #17
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Though the car is still burning a little much, issue will be resolved when the rebuild begins
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:52 PM   #18
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OUr shop bb6 tends to burn oil but only typically when going into v-tech, we have replaced the rear main seal as it decided to pour oil out.


VTEC loves oil.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:09 PM   #19
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^^^^ lol
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
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VTEC loves oil.
You lucky sob. Where does one get this? I need meez a car phone


And as said by others. When engine is max oil level youll lose some oil from the cover through the breather but mostly through the pcv. This is usually from running the engine hard that youll get that but you can be certain every prelude is doing that. Then there are quite a few common areas prone to eventually leak/seep.. youll always lose oil through piston ring blow by. This is natural by design. Some suffer more than others.

I avoid comparing oil consumption rates from others. Do you trust a persons scientific ability to accurately measure oil loss at a determined mileage mark? 90% of the time you can bet there is guestimating going on or the amount is pulled from between the cheeks lol.
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