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Old 01-08-2012, 04:58 AM   #1
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Wink Auto Transmission Solenoid maintenance DIY procedure

If your car has the following symptoms, this procedure will help
a) S4 indicator flashing
b) A/T code of 2 or 8
c) stuck with one gear (usually at higher gear)
d) hard to shift between gear, etc.

In my case, my car has all a, b and c

Our prelude A/T is very strong and hard to fail. The above symptoms usually indicate that either or both Solenoids (lockup and Shift) are not functioning as expected. Luckly, the solenoids are external and easy to remove, we can, at least easily, restore its functionality (in worst case, replace a new one, hopefully not).

This procedure is to help you just that.

0) Disconnect the battery -ve

1) Remove all air intake, etc. to clear the path for easy access to solenoid. Pic below is shown the solenoids which attached to the A/T box.


The top solenoid is the lockup control and the bottom one is the shift control solenoid.

2) Carefully unplug the wire connection from both solenoids by lifting the tap from the plug. Pic below shown two unplugs solenoid wire plugs


3) Remove three 10mm bolts from the lockup solenoid and remove the solenoid. It is a bit strong matting to the transmission housing, with just little force, it will be off from the housing. Here what it look like...


Closer, you can see the solenoid gasket filter attached to the solenoid. In my case, it has full of small metal on the filter, that block the passage of oil to the solenoid valve. At this point I go ahead and remove the remaining solenoid.


4) Carefully pry off the gasket filter from the solenoids. Here is my shift solenoid filter


Now we can start to do the fun stuff in order to restore the solenoid

5) If you want to reuse your gasket filter, then you need to clean the filter with brake cleanner, ensure the filter is clean. This allows oil passage to the solenoids.


After I clean the filter.


Now we turn to the solenoids themselve. The solenoid has two valves (A and B). Both need to activate (or click) when 12V signal apply to it. You can test this by apply a very short brief 12V +ve to one wire (either wire, one for each valve) and -ve to the body of the solenoid. Careful, not to let the +ve touch the -ve wire. In my case, I nearly did. With a full functional solenoid, you should hear a click or clicks. In my case, one valve is quite (stuck) and the other is very weak click. This indicated that my solenoid has stuck with all metall dust in it. and I need to clean the inside.



6) Let's start to clean the solenoid. First you can see the holes. Just blow the brake cleaner to each hole, you will see some metal dust coming out with the brake fluid.



But that alone is not enough, after you apply some brake cleaner, moderately tap it to a clean tow on the ground a few times. This will shake the dust inside the valve. Repeat the brake cleaner and tap..tap... during this time, you might see some metal dust seeping out of the hole.

7) Check the solenoid valve, by applying +ve and ground to solenoid body as above. You will hear the click is getting loder and kicking stronger. If not, repeat step 6 untill you see no more metal dust or you satisfy that both valves have strong and louder click. Now you know you have bring it back to life...


repeat the same procedure for the lockup control. Here are both of them and they are clean


Put the gasket filter back in


9) Apply some transimission oil to the gasket (a good excuse to check the fluid level by pull the yellow fluid level dipstick out )

10) Clean the matting at the transmission house with clean rug and brake cleanner


11) Put back the lower solenoid first with three 10mm bolf and apply 12Nm (9lb) torque. I don't have much space for my bloody torque wrench so I guesstimate. Then the put back the top solenoid, similar to the bottom one.


12) Plug all the solenoid plugs back into car harness connection. Easy enough

13) put back the battery -ve and check everything around you, makesure no nut or nuts hanging around

Start the car and start to drive and enjoy a smoother shift and gear engaging......

That's all folks!!!!

Last edited by spacemaster; 01-09-2012 at 05:02 AM. Reason: Safety warning of not letting the +ve and -ve touching and correct torque
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:48 AM   #2
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:50 AM   #3
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Sorry, for short cut... Positi(ve) or negati(ve)
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:56 AM   #4
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If I get a chance I will look up nm and convert to lbs. Where you from? see you have been here a long time. Almost as long as me!
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:03 AM   #5
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Thanks cuda, correction. Manual said it is 12 mN (or 9 lbs)
I am from Australia
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:08 AM   #6
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Wooweee I'll have to do this on the 88 S PGM-CARB Auto!
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Old 01-08-2012, 12:52 PM   #7
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nice write up, but it should be noted that the version with all 4 valves on the outside was only on the 90-91, the 88-89 had the 2 shift valves internal and aren't accessible without transmission disassembly.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:15 PM   #8
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^^^^ Are you saying the 88-89 only has one valve body on the outside and the other is inside? I've done this once with my 88 (b20a3-auto) and I've got one outside that I know of but never thought to check for more solenoids to clean. Even just cleaning the one I found made a great difference for about 15000 miles. No flashing S4, no lockout issues in fourth gear...but it's started again.

Thanks for the write up I know what I'll be doing if it ever gets above freezing here again.
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:36 PM   #9
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I looked into the manual, 88-89 has also same solenoids outside as mine. I don't have 88-89 so, I can't verify what PFJ said, he probably right, since he has one.

You probably just clean the filter which allows more oil passage to the solenoid. Sometime that would do the trick, while you there, why not clean the internal too Have fun with the gear box again. Agree, it made huge different, I am smiling with the smooth gear change in the last few days....
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Old 02-07-2012, 05:22 PM   #10
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Man, I was all happy wen I found this, it goes to 4th when I step on it but quickly release back to 3rd, I have an 89 so I guess it's one solenoid on the outside It won't hurt to clean anyway.
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:04 PM   #11
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2 auto solenoids

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemaster View Post
I looked into the manual, 88-89 has also same solenoids outside as mine. I don't have 88-89 so, I can't verify what PFJ said, he probably right, since he has one.

You probably just clean the filter which allows more oil passage to the solenoid. Sometime that would do the trick, while you there, why not clean the internal too Have fun with the gear box again. Agree, it made huge different, I am smiling with the smooth gear change in the last few days....
This is correct...2 solenoids on the '88/'89 autos. As soon as Cuda clued me into your post, i went out and looked at the front of the tranny and saw only two of them.

Hopefully, cleaning these two will give me a few thousand more miles of smooth riding.

Thanks Folks!
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:11 PM   #12
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The 88/89 K4 transmission has a set of 2 solenoids located at the front of the transmission.

The 90/91 transmission has 2 sets of 2 solenoids (total of 4) located at the front of the transmission.
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndSi View Post
This is correct...2 solenoids on the '88/'89 autos. As soon as Cuda clued me into your post, i went out and looked at the front of the tranny and saw only two of them.

Hopefully, cleaning these two will give me a few thousand more miles of smooth riding.

Thanks Folks!
Would be ten thousands miles more ...
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:49 PM   #14
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89 Prelude 2.0S

I have an 89 Prelude 2.0 S. I am having the same problem. Anyone know where I can buy new solenoids?
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I have an 89 Prelude 2.0 S. I am having the same problem. Anyone know where I can buy new solenoids?
Your only chances are a transmission shop or the dealer, you can try to see if an auto parts store can get it, but I doubt it.

Other than that, it might be a discontinued item.
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:10 PM   #16
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already checked the dealer & it is discontinued. I'm going to try to clean them since the tranny is out of the car. Thanks
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:51 PM   #17
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:27 PM   #18
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FAQ this if it hasn't been already.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:42 PM   #19
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FAQ this if it hasn't been already.
I had it added awhile back.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:47 PM   #20
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can the solenoid cause my issues?

Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemaster View Post
If your car has the following symptoms, this procedure will help
a) S4 indicator flashing
b) A/T code of 2 or 8
c) stuck with one gear (usually at higher gear)
d) hard to shift between gear, etc.

In my case, my car has all a, b and c

Our prelude A/T is very strong and hard to fail. The above symptoms usually indicate that either or both Solenoids (lockup and Shift) are not functioning as expected. Luckly, the solenoids are external and easy to remove, we can, at least easily, restore its functionality (in worst case, replace a new one, hopefully not).

This procedure is to help you just that.

0) Disconnect the battery -ve

1) Remove all air intake, etc. to clear the path for easy access to solenoid. Pic below is shown the solenoids which attached to the A/T box.


The top solenoid is the lockup control and the bottom one is the shift control solenoid.

2) Carefully unplug the wire connection from both solenoids by lifting the tap from the plug. Pic below shown two unplugs solenoid wire plugs


3) Remove three 10mm bolts from the lockup solenoid and remove the solenoid. It is a bit strong matting to the transmission housing, with just little force, it will be off from the housing. Here what it look like...


Closer, you can see the solenoid gasket filter attached to the solenoid. In my case, it has full of small metal on the filter, that block the passage of oil to the solenoid valve. At this point I go ahead and remove the remaining solenoid.


4) Carefully pry off the gasket filter from the solenoids. Here is my shift solenoid filter


Now we can start to do the fun stuff in order to restore the solenoid

5) If you want to reuse your gasket filter, then you need to clean the filter with brake cleanner, ensure the filter is clean. This allows oil passage to the solenoids.


After I clean the filter.


Now we turn to the solenoids themselve. The solenoid has two valves (A and B). Both need to activate (or click) when 12V signal apply to it. You can test this by apply a very short brief 12V +ve to one wire (either wire, one for each valve) and -ve to the body of the solenoid. Careful, not to let the +ve touch the -ve wire. In my case, I nearly did. With a full functional solenoid, you should hear a click or clicks. In my case, one valve is quite (stuck) and the other is very weak click. This indicated that my solenoid has stuck with all metall dust in it. and I need to clean the inside.



6) Let's start to clean the solenoid. First you can see the holes. Just blow the brake cleaner to each hole, you will see some metal dust coming out with the brake fluid.



But that alone is not enough, after you apply some brake cleaner, moderately tap it to a clean tow on the ground a few times. This will shake the dust inside the valve. Repeat the brake cleaner and tap..tap... during this time, you might see some metal dust seeping out of the hole.

7) Check the solenoid valve, by applying +ve and ground to solenoid body as above. You will hear the click is getting loder and kicking stronger. If not, repeat step 6 untill you see no more metal dust or you satisfy that both valves have strong and louder click. Now you know you have bring it back to life...


repeat the same procedure for the lockup control. Here are both of them and they are clean


Put the gasket filter back in


9) Apply some transimission oil to the gasket (a good excuse to check the fluid level by pull the yellow fluid level dipstick out )

10) Clean the matting at the transmission house with clean rug and brake cleanner


11) Put back the lower solenoid first with three 10mm bolf and apply 12Nm (9lb) torque. I don't have much space for my bloody torque wrench so I guesstimate. Then the put back the top solenoid, similar to the bottom one.


12) Plug all the solenoid plugs back into car harness connection. Easy enough

13) put back the battery -ve and check everything around you, makesure no nut or nuts hanging around

Start the car and start to drive and enjoy a smoother shift and gear engaging......

That's all folks!!!!
When i'm on interstate at 70mph my rpm is between 3300 to 3500? It sometimes downshifts when it didn't need to. Any help I would be very thankful.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:56 AM   #21
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I was wondering if this same maintenance for the auto solenoids would work for the 5th gen autos?

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Old 07-26-2013, 04:56 PM   #22
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If 5th gen has external solenoids, then why not. I applied this DIY on my legend, it worked a treat. Exactly the same....they are the same design.
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:04 AM   #23
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@ WesA69,

have you checked both your throttle control cable that is attached to the A/T and the throttle cable that is attached to your carburetor?
By the time these cables wear out and the stock adjustment does not provide the required tension.
Anyhow the throttle control cable or rather the throttle control lever on the A/T should start to move as engine speed increases/you press down the gas pedal.

I had the same issue like you and fixed it by doing this.
---------


regards from Germany
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:22 PM   #24
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great thread
I am a new guy here so I hope that I am doing this ok.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me what it is when the s3 light flashes.
The car will start fine and drive ok untill I get to about 20-25 mph then the flashing starts .the trans was just rebuilt with engine b20a5 in 1991 body I also got a 4ws rack out of an 88 . everything was good until this . I used this thread to remove and clean solenold with no change .any help ?
Thanks for the time
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:41 PM   #25
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you have to count the number of flashes ( note LONG flashes vs short flashes ) long = 10 short = 1 add them together and thats your TCU error code ( NOT THE SAME AS A CEL ). look up that code in the factory service manual under the FAQ stickie in the 3g sectiton
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