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Old 03-28-2011, 03:54 PM   #1
Wing8806
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How To: 5th gen wire tuck - basics

***Disclaimer: Myself and the owners of PreludePower are not responsible for any damages caused by anything done within this writeup. If you are not comfortable about doing something - by all means do not attempt that step of the writeup. Some portions of this writeup are in need of updating and others could use improvement - for example; ways to extend the wires to the relocated fusebox. Take your time and do not shortcut anything.***


So i've been slacking for awhile now... Did this back in September and decided to finally post up some of the pics. Alot of other 'luders have done this but i've yet to see a writeup on it. Hopefully this will contain enough to be the final wire-tuck thread
This is a work in progress, I will continue to update this as I go. I have some new ideas i've yet to see

What parts you will need / body panels required to be removed based on what you are tucking:

Battery Relocation:
Materials -
10' of 2 gauge wire for power (if fusebox is relocated) 12' if fusebox is still in bay
4' of 2 OR 4 gauge wire for grounds
6' of 2 OR 4 gauge for starter and alternator extensions (if fusebox is relocated and you decide to extend the lines vs replacing alltogether)
(x) amount of lug ring connectors/ butt splices, depends on how you hook up to your battery and if you use a distribution block
shrink wrap / or RUBBER electric tape
regular electric tape

What needs to be removed -
passenger door sill
glove box
back seat
passenger side back seat panels
trunk mat

Driver side shock tower:
Materials -
(dayco) 80210. It's 5/32 i.d. x 6' windshield washer hose. (i got mine from pep boys) for egr solenoid
zip-ties

What panels need to be removed -
IF removing fluid reservoir and relocating relays, remove front bumper and driver-side fender.

Passenger side shock tower:
Materials -
zip-ties

What panels you will need to remove -
-none-

Fusebox: (if NOT done with battery relocation)
Materials -
electric tape
ring lugs / butt splices for power and alternator wires
5' 2 gauge wire for battery feed
3' 2 OR 4 gauge wire for alternator

What panels you will need to remove -
glove box



- Would like to also thank Biglegs with his tips for the fusebox relocation that will be included in this write-up

I'll include pictures as I do more

Everything is pretty self explanatory, I've got some step-by-step pictures and will try to keep everything in some sort of order

What you will start with (intake depending)



Finished:







Passenger shock tower







Driver shock towerDepending on how far you want to go with this - you will have to remove the bumper and driver-side fender


















Dizzy






Horns




Firewall






Fusebox This will require you to extend or completely replace the starter/alternator wires going to the fusebox and replace the battery wire unless you did a battery relocation where you already have a longer wire - use your best judgement on this part since you will be passing these wires through the firewall, last thing you want is to cause a fire if something comes loose while driving.










Battery















----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

extra odds n ends i've done since the original post:

Before and after:







How to get there:

Alternator wire:

Remove the battery so there's no charge - then remove the alternator wires and pull off the top plastic cover. Wrap the wires with some high heat tape for a little extra protection and run it over the side motor mount and around the oil dipstick. Zip-tie it to the bracket towards the bottom/front of the alternator and call it a day






Power Steering hose:

Remove bracket on top of the Valve cover - wrap the metal part in some tape, and push it down between the timing belt cover and shock tower. Then take the extra slack and carefully push it down the bracket on the backside of the head.






Slimfans:









Traction bar installed:



Last edited by Wing8806; 03-26-2012 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:08 PM   #2
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whered u get the gold nuts? lol i like. not the washers the others. when you ran the fuse box wire did you run them all back a little bit and then forward to the battery? im doin a tuck and relocate soon. also i dont see whats different at the dizzy
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #3
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I didn't have a "before" pic of the dizzy lol the pic i posted was after i moved the wires behind it.

The gold bolts are just the stock bolts, I got bored one day and had a can of paint laying around - so i went with it. Came damn close to matching the tophats.

As for the fusebox, It needed a longer wire to the battery. Otherwise - I just clipped all the wire ties to the harnesses and dropped them below the AC line. The wire ties holding it onto the transmission were clipped as well. It reaches over the shifter cables without a problem since I tied them to the AC bracket.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:39 PM   #4
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Great job.

But none of these pics help. They only show a before vs. after.
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OUZO Power View Post
Great job.

But none of these pics help. They only show a before vs. after.
Thank you for the compliment. As I stated in the first post, this is all self explanatory. If I were to write out every single thing I had done - I would just receive a bunch of questions asking what i did.

Unfortunately nobody reads... But if it would please you, i'll write out everything in full detail. I'll even find a local 5th gen to go off of and give an exact number of stock wire ties I clipped. - No i'm not being sarcastic.
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Old 03-28-2011, 05:10 PM   #6
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Dedication ^

But Wing, the pictures do in fact help. It's a great way to show how it should/will look. Anyone who wants to and will tuck their bay will in fact have common sense to see where one can hide them.
Great job.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:53 PM   #7
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In for more info

Short description to where you tucked the wires to would be a big help for sure!
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing8806 View Post
I'll even find a local 5th gen to go off of and give an exact number of stock wire ties I clipped. - No i'm not being sarcastic.
Shouldn't be hard to find one. I heard there's a nice CBM prelude in Newark that would be willing to help you out.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:24 PM   #9
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go read the other wire tuck threads in the fifth gen section, ALOT more pics and info on what went where and how on them...or just merge the threads...

good work wing...

alot of the wires and vac lines NEED to be extended or just longer lines to tuck them away.

to tuck the main harness under the fusebox nothing needs to be extended. you will need to remove some cable ties to get the harness to reach.

to relocate the fuse box to the glovebox, you WILL need to extend the power lines.

egr solenoid...you WILL need to extend the vac lines.

headlight wires/wireharnees that shoots across the bay through the fender...you WILL need to extend WIRES...

ive been doing ALOT of work on my engine bay. if anyone has ANY questions on what i did, or how i did, feel free to message me...

pic of my bay, where its at of now...

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Old 03-28-2011, 08:51 PM   #10
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Yeah there are plenty of threads, but just random posts without any solid info. Let alone before and after pics as to where they go. This is just what I did last sept. I'll go MUCH farther in depth since that's what everyone's wanting.

Jake - i'll shoot you a txt :P

The only vacuum lines I had to extend were the ones for the egr solenoid, as you mentioned. But if you wanted to pull the wires out of the wire loom, you don't even have to extend anything - just move everything near the clutch master cylinder.

Power wire for the fusebox is a given since the stock one is just 2' and a few inches

I'll re-do everything first chance I get, thanks for the compliments and helpful criticism

Biglegs - are you finished? If not, there's some things i'm in the middle of doing that you could still try.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:03 PM   #11
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nope, far from done...still gotta relocate my battery and my abs is going to go...any tips/pointers or new ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!

i relocated my egr solenoid to the fender where the windsheild washer res was, so that why i had to extend them...

also, why do you have tupperware in your fender???????

also, repped for awesomness!
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Last edited by biglegs; 03-28-2011 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biglegs View Post
nope, far from done...still gotta relocate my battery and my abs is going to go...any tips/pointers or new ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!

i relocated my egr solenoid to the fender where the windsheild washer res was, so that why i had to extend them...

also, why do you have tupperware in your fender???????

also, repped for awesomness!
Thank you


lol, you're not the first that's questioned that. The previous owner (former member here) had the retro's done by Brian. When he installed everything - he kept having an unusual problem of the headlights shorting out every time they got wet. So he put the tupperware on them and it never did it again (from what i was told) I've just left them there, rather remove them and realize he was right.


Yeah i relocated my solenoid the same way, but i moved my vac lines under the motor mount so they wont be seen. If you remove ABS - it's eaiser to pull the wires out of the wire loom and move the solenoid up near the fire-wall. that way you wont need the long vac lines just laying in that nice open space.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:37 PM   #13
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woops XD ment to edit top post
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Old 03-30-2011, 02:55 AM   #14
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Wow, great write-up. Definitly in for more, im gonna do most/if not all of this. Repped.
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:57 AM   #15
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Now with the updated pics and instructions this thread rocks. Thanks
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:45 PM   #16
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Good thread. Im excited to see the how-to for the fusebox.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaylude01 View Post
Wow, great write-up. Definitly in for more, im gonna do most/if not all of this. Repped.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OUZO Power View Post
Now with the updated pics and instructions this thread rocks. Thanks
Quote:
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Good thread. Im excited to see the how-to for the fusebox.


Thanks for the compliments everyone!


Just updated with the first steps for the fusebox and battery removal.

I was unsure the wires would reach at first - big thanks to BigLegs for the help on that!

Today I ran out of ground wire just as it started to rain (go figure). Looking like rain and snow the next two days, so i'll pick up the wire and hop back on this first chance I get.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:07 AM   #18
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lookin good wingnut
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:22 AM   #19
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I think I have an issue... the first picture showing what we're supposed to start with shows a black prelude... but mine is white? How do I fix?!



JK, awesome work man!
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:46 AM   #20
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Fantastic info, been looking for a good writeup on fusebox and battery relocation. Looks like I've found it. I look forward to seeing everything else you do. Repped!!
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxfallacyxx View Post
I think I have an issue... the first picture showing what we're supposed to start with shows a black prelude... but mine is white? How do I fix?!



JK, awesome work man!

It's ok, don't panic - just close your eyes and everything will be alright.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BadBB6 View Post
Fantastic info, been looking for a good writeup on fusebox and battery relocation. Looks like I've found it. I look forward to seeing everything else you do. Repped!!


Thanks guys!
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:54 PM   #22
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Raining on and off all day... couldn't help but go out and try to at least get the car started.

Finished up in the bay as far as the fusebox and battery removal/ extensions go. My breaker wont fit the 0 gauge wire without modification, so i just wired everything straight through using an acorn and rubber tape until i get something to toss in there.

Everything is back together and I started it up - first try no issues with 14.4 volts DC constant (an increase from the 12.9 - 13.4 previously). I'll check the voltage with the car off first thing in the morning when I secure the battery in the trunk.

No - i'm not using a battery box/ vent tube. Let alone a breaker for the time being. I highly suggest anyone else doing this - play it safe and get them.

First post updated. Still more to come
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:00 PM   #23
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:38 PM   #24
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Looking good Jason! You could swing that main harness under the AC line and over to the evap if you wanted it lower.


Updated pics for the battery and fusebox sections. Everything works perfectly

Still more to come!
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Old 04-03-2011, 02:44 PM   #25
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