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Old 03-13-2010, 07:44 PM   #1
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Ignition timing set with gun not correct on H22?

Got a OBD1 H22A, set the ignition timing on it with a trusted ignition timing light got the marks perfect and kept in position. Test drive the car it runs like it's got a bad spark plug wire, any throttle over 30% or any kind of load and it'll bog down until VTEC kicks in, in which case it pulls like hell and feels right. If you give it some pedal it'll jerk and pull in and out until VTEC jumps in. Just before VTEC engages, it feels like something's wrong in the ignition. I then retarted the hell out of the ignition timing, and it kills most of the problem, but not all of it.

Prior to this, we had adjustable cam gears installed with an unknown cam position timing and it ran beautifully good idle good torque good top end, and right after we adjusted the gears (did manual tensioner swap, timing belt, etc, and set cam gears to 0/0) we started having the ignition problem. Timing belt and balance shaft belt are both set perfectly, double triple checked.

Could an internal distributor oil leak be a culprit?
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:22 PM   #2
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Did you reset the ECU after timing? You probably did that.

Maybe check that the cam isn't off a tooth.
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:25 PM   #3
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did you jump the ecu connector under the radio to turn off the ecu's timing control while you set the timing?
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:35 PM   #4
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did you set the gun at zero? prob did..
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Old 03-13-2010, 10:39 PM   #5
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Ok you edited saying with the timing turned back some it gains power. (I didn't see that) Perhaps the engine has some preignition. I would try using premium gas and set the timing back to stock just to see if it helps.
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:52 AM   #6
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It sounds like your physical cam timing is off. Pull off your cover and centre the cams with the dowels at tdc and check your timing marks on the flywheel. If only one will align with the dowel holes then your camshaft is off a tooth.

When you adjust the cam gears it physically affects the position of the distributor which leads me to think that the cam was off teeth before and was adjusted out with the cam gear. I have done this before as a band-aid to get the car running when i didnt have the time to redo the belt.

Make sure you are following the proper procedure for setting the timing as outlined in the service manual and make sure you are jumping the service connector under the kick panel.

Just to clarify: Your able to set the base timing correctly, like bang on the cross hair, but when you drive it, it has no power off vtec?
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:55 PM   #7
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Okay, here we go.

Yes, I did jump the service connector under the glovebox when setting the timing; CEL came on as it should.

Engine has burned off a few tanks of 93 octane so good fuel is of no concern.

I'm about to go rip the valve cover and make 200% sure the cam-crank timing is perfect. I had it set dead on the crosshair on the crank and both cam pulleys lining up with each other and absolutely no doubt it wasn't on but I'm going to check it in a second.

But like I said, I set it to the sideways "t" on the flywheel and it runs like ass until VTEC and then I set it close to the 15 mark and it runs much better but still not perfect. Until VTEC.

Engine has brand new wires, brand new NGK iridium plugs, brand new cap, rotor, fuel filter, pcv valve, water pump, etc etc. Everything maintenance related is done.

I am using a H23 distributor with an internal coil coversion, could this be affecting anything?
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcukwithmeprelude View Post

But like I said, I set it to the sideways "t" on the flywheel and it runs like ass until VTEC and then I set it close to the 15 mark and it runs much better but still not perfect. Until VTEC.

I am using a H23 distributor with an internal coil coversion, could this be affecting anything?
The sidways T is actually 0*, aka TDC. The 15 mark is 15* advanced from TDC. You will have a huge lack of power if the ignition timing is set to the T mark unless you have like 16:1 compression and run ethanol.

When you check/set the cam gears timing, the crank pointer needs to point at the T. When you check/set the ignition timing, the light should flash and the pointer should point at the 15* mark. Maybe you just worded your post funny and I'm confused about what you are trying to say. Maybe not and we have the solution.
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:13 PM   #9
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16 - 1 compression. Lol i set my timing according to feel. I dont have an adjustable timing gun. lol
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:41 PM   #10
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16 - 1 compression. Lol i set my timing according to feel. I dont have an adjustable timing gun. lol
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Then you fail. It's impossible to get it right like that. Go rent a timing gun for free from Autozone.
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:38 AM   #11
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ignition by feel? easy way to blow your shit.
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:54 AM   #12
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I was trying to set the ignition timing at the t. That's why it runs better at the 15. Okay, that clears that up.

Car's still running like crap though. I found oil inside the cap on the dizzy I'm about to try to find a seal for it. Could that be causing the ignition jerking?
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:19 PM   #13
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yeah the t represents tdc you are looking to set your timing right in the 'crosshair' which is the centre line between the two other horizontal lines. The outer lines represent the maximum tolerance for ign timing which is +/- 1
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:13 AM   #14
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back yard timing

you wanna here the back woods redneck timeing tuneing trick. works best on carbed vehicles or efi thats tuneable. get yourself a glass of water and set it on the valve cover. adjust your timing and air/fuel till the water in the glass is barely moving/vibrating/resonating. old school but it works and will get you very close with out any extra cool guy tools. i would try it on the lude tough . crazy tilted motors
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:50 AM   #15
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you wanna here the back woods redneck timeing tuneing trick. works best on carbed vehicles or efi thats tuneable. get yourself a glass of water and set it on the valve cover. adjust your timing and air/fuel till the water in the glass is barely moving/vibrating/resonating. old school but it works and will get you very close with out any extra cool guy tools. i would try it on the lude tough . crazy tilted motors
ahahaha yea that's how you tune the idle fuel mixture too.

Ya ever hear of backwoods birth control? Stand on a bucket while you screw yer wife/sister. Then when ya ready to unload, she kicks the bucket out from under ya.
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