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Old 11-26-2009, 05:38 PM   #1
4ws88
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best brand for oxygen sensor replacement? no bosch!

so what do you guys recomend besides denso?
i know to stay away from bosch. i swear bosch cant make anything!!!
anyways my o2 A is out. why are there an A and B sensor anyways?
hell i was wondering if you could just change to a 2 wire single sensor lol
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Old 11-26-2009, 05:44 PM   #2
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www.rockauto.com .. order from there.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:29 PM   #3
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www.rockauto.com .. order from there.
some decent prices. for me i just cant quite get used to ordering things online. call me old but i like to deal with people.
so is DENSO the best one to use? ive had issues with sensors before going out a year later or in the case of bosh , a few weeks later or a few months.
so im asking what brands do you guys have the best luck with? what are you using
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:04 PM   #4
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never had a problem with my bosch o2 sensor...
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:10 PM   #5
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so what do you guys recomend besides denso?
i know to stay away from bosch. i swear bosch cant make anything!!!
anyways my o2 A is out. why are there an A and B sensor anyways?
hell i was wondering if you could just change to a 2 wire single sensor lol
I changed both of mine out last year to NTK oxygen sensors. They work great and are a great product. Cheapest place I found (free shipping for 2) is AMAZON.com:
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-24033-Oxyg...9297583&sr=8-3

Yes you can convert to a single oxygen (O2) sensor (more trouble than it's worth I think) but unlikely for a 2 wire single sensor. There are many write-ups for this conversion, here is the best:
http://mustardcat.brinkster.net/p3g/.../o2convert.htm
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:26 PM   #6
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I changed both of mine out last year to NTK oxygen sensors. They work great and are a great product. Cheapest place I found (free shipping for 2) is AMAZON.com:
http://www.amazon.com/NGK-24033-Oxyg...9297583&sr=8-3

Yes you can convert to a single oxygen (O2) sensor (more trouble than it's worth I think) but unlikely for a 2 wire single sensor. There are many write-ups for this conversion, here is the best:
http://mustardcat.brinkster.net/p3g/.../o2convert.htm
ntk, thats what i think someone mentioned. ill check out the write up, again thanks zippy.
on a side not i have other cars that eat bosh for breakfast, and ive heard people complain on here about them failing very quickly. there products i stay away from period along with vw cars. even there platinum plugs dont work right in a vw car.
so ill look for some ntk or just get some denso, depends what my supply house carries
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:41 PM   #7
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i didnt see in there where it said what wires go where on the 4 wire sensor. im aware the white is the signal wire but he didnt say what original o2 wire goes where. aside from that i was thinking of a single sensor in the original stock location, so a unheated sensor. why are there 2 sensors to start with?can the signal from one be sent to both wires?
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:02 PM   #8
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okay i replaced the o2 sensor cleared the code then i ran the car till the cel came on this time i got a code 1 and 2, i bought a second o2 the code 2 whent away but the cel came back on with a code 1 again. and now when im driving the cel comes on. before it only came on at a idle if i left the car running but never while driving.
what do i do now??i checked the wires over pretty good i didnt see any signs of anything bad.
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:03 PM   #9
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denso FTW
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:10 PM   #10
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I replaced mine with Walker brand O2 sensors. They have been working fine for over a year now.
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:16 PM   #11
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I replaced mine with Walker brand O2 sensors. They have been working fine for over a year now.
i replaced both today but like i said i still have a code after clearing it several times, i whent thru the honda manual. sounds like a bad fuel pressure regulator can throw this code too, weird. i dont know but the cel comes on while driving now and before it only came on while sitting idling for a long time.i geuss i dont know what to really do. i dont have the tool to test the regulator.
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:52 AM   #12
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What code do you keep getting?
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:37 AM   #13
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What code do you keep getting?
A code 1
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:48 AM   #14
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A partially clogged catalytic converter can throw O2 sensor codes. Mine did just before it completely clogged up and stopped me dead.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:51 AM   #15
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A partially clogged catalytic converter can throw O2 sensor codes. Mine did just before it completely clogged up and stopped me dead.
yeah that would make sense. im not experiancing anything that would make me think its clogged but i have a feeling its a 225000 mile original cat so it cant be too good. is there anyway to really tell if a cat is starting to go bad? ive always just figured it out when it made it so the car wouldnt run and it was pretty obvious.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:22 AM   #16
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The problem with the non-heated bosch stock replacement sensor is that it takes a long time to warm up. There was a mod posted a while back showing how to install a heated universal bosch sensor.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:46 AM   #17
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The problem with the non-heated bosch stock replacement sensor is that it takes a long time to warm up. There was a mod posted a while back showing how to install a heated universal bosch sensor.
yeah, the one guy posted a link to something like that but it was very vague and requies the o2 to be moved downstream, for some reason the heated o2s wont work/last up closer to the header.
ive seen alot of differant styles of o2s. 1 wire, 2, and 3 all non heated i think, and the 4 wire.
i wonder why the 88-89 b20a5 has 2 single wire o2s? why wouldnt one do the job? its not like a post and pre cat set up! lol they are right next to eachother.
i searched for a bit and didnt find any 3gp 4 wire write ups did find something for a wideband.
i wonder if theres a way to run just one single wire o2. why have 2 its something else to break aside from the fact the last owner messed up the threads on the "A" o2 bung i spent a hour getting the new sensor to finally thread.
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Old 11-29-2009, 09:59 PM   #18
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i wonder why the 88-89 b20a5 has 2 single wire o2s? why wouldnt one do the job? its not like a post and pre cat set up! lol they are right next to eachother.
I used to know the answer to the question its been so long. I want to say the answer to that question is somewhere in the service manual. When I ran mine with constant power it lasted about a year. One heated universal senor will take care of two o2 sensors.
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:50 PM   #19
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the cel stop coming on while im driving till a few days later today. it was when i got on it passing someone on the freeway. and it stayed on till i hit the gas station, same code 1.
the car feels sluggish sometimes so im thinking i might really have a clogged cat. i hate to pull out the cat and weld up a test pipe and i dont have the cash for a hi flow cat. ive noticed a loss in low end on hondas whn removing the cat and i dont want my car being any louder. on the bright side i can get at least $20 for the cat if i take it to the recycler place. but i dont know if thats the problem anyways
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:50 AM   #20
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i replaced both today but like i said i still have a code after clearing it several times, i whent thru the honda manual. sounds like a bad fuel pressure regulator can throw this code too, weird. i dont know but the cel comes on while driving now and before it only came on while sitting idling for a long time.i geuss i dont know what to really do. i dont have the tool to test the regulator.
I wouldn't bother with the single (O2) sensor conversion, only if you had a 90-91 downpipe. It does sound like the fuel pressure regulator that might be the problem according to the service manual. Since you cleared the code (assuming removing clock fuse) via resetting ECU. Go to your local autozone and use their fuel pressure gauge for free under their tool loan. Then follow the instructions via the service manual to rule out the fuel pressure regulator.
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:24 PM   #21
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I wouldn't bother with the single (O2) sensor conversion, only if you had a 90-91 downpipe. It does sound like the fuel pressure regulator that might be the problem according to the service manual. Since you cleared the code (assuming removing clock fuse) via resetting ECU. Go to your local autozone and use their fuel pressure gauge for free under their tool loan. Then follow the instructions via the service manual to rule out the fuel pressure regulator.
yeah i wasnt planning on doing it since it wouldnt be a solution to my problem and it would just make things more complicated.
ill check that, is it a vac gauge thats required? harbor freight has a cheap kit for around $12
anyways vato zone will work. does it just thread on or do i need a adapter. the manual says adapter and shows the line still on there as if the adapter threads in the place of the bolt. iwas looking at cheap pressure gauges that can be installed but im not sure how to on this car or what size i need if i do.
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