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Timing Belt Installation

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46K views 91 replies 36 participants last post by  ilya_kon  
#1 · (Edited)
Before taking anything apart, set the #1 Cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) - #1 Piston at the tip of its stroke with distributor rotor pointing to #1 wire. Arrows on cams should be pointing straight up. The little white cross tick mark shown on the flywheel is top dead center. This pic is shown for reference only for where to look. The pic shows it slightly off of top dead center (TDC).:smile:

Note: Take out the spark plugs to make the crankshaft easier to turn through.

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This is not absolutely necessary but before I removed the old belt, I marked it to the cam gears and to the crank gear. I then set it aside to use as a reference tool in case I needed it at re-assembly. I did this just so I could be absolutely sure I got the new belt back on correctly. What you see below is the new belt lined up and marked to match the marks on the old belt. If you prefer not to or can't use the old belt as a reference like this (because the old belt is broken) the following pics should help give a clear visual.



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First you will need a couple of rig pins to lock the cams into position. The instructions are in the service manual. I found that two #9 drill bits worked best for me. I wanted a good fit without any play because it doesn't take much movement to be off a tooth. The #9s fit just about perfectly.
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So here is what it looked like with the rigging set up. Wait..This doesn't quite look right to me. There is slack in the belt between the cam gears. I thought this couldn't be right. The first time I installed one, I thought there shouldn't be this slack. I thought I'd take that slack out of the belt and go to the next tooth. I was WRONG. If you are off a tooth the engine will run but it will not be right. You will lose efficiency. Power and gas mileage will be affected and its probably not good for the engine in general. What I failed to realize was, this was correct and was just the rigging phase. I hadn't actually adjusted the tension on the belt yet. Long story short, that slack will take care of itself when all is said and done.
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You can see below that you cannot actually move it to the next tooth with the rigging pins installed. You would have to either move the crank or move one of the cams.
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Below is a wide angle view with the rigging pins in and the #1 cyl at TDC. White tensioner bolt is loose. You may notice the black plastic back plate for the timing belt cover has not been installed yet. Be sure to put that on before you install the belt the final time.
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Thats basically it. All that's left to do is adjust the tension on the belt. Since I now have a better understanding and have a good visual reference (Slack) of what it looks like before the tension is set I won't need to use the old belt with marks on it next time.



To set the tension follow the instructions in the manual. Take out the rig pins. Loosen then tighten tensioner bolt, then move crank a few teeth Counter clockwise, loosen and re-tighten the tensioner bolt again. Caution: (If you turn the crank Clockwise before you have the tension set, the belt can jump a tooth or several teeth on the crank gear). Keep an eye on that.

Correction
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This pic shows the belt with the tension set.
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Intake side with tension set.
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Exhaust side with tension set
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Here is the Pic that shows the marks on the cam sprockets that need to be aligned with the top of the head while the crank is at TDC.
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S
#6 ·
good write up.......dats what i did when my engine was out and i installed new t belt.....using hodan dealer bealt..

i allways like to make my t belt just a lil tighter on da tensoiner..

i like to make it not too tite and not too loose..but tight enough so belt can get broken in and let it get slacks on its own...

been doing it like dat for 10 years now with no problems...
 
D
#7 ·
xNicoyAx said:
Sweet write-up! It even has pictures! Everyone loves those! I hear you can also lock the cams by using an Allen wrench? Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
Click to expand...
Yeah...a 5mm allen wrench will be perfect if you file the edges down a little bit.

To be a bit more specific on turning the crank counter-clockwise a small amount ( equal to turning the cam sprockets 2-3 teeth) before finally tightening the tensioner bolt. What this does is, move the slack from the FRONT SIDE of the belt run, to the BACK SIDE where the tensioner spring will eleminate it. Very important.

With all the pics of the backside of the camshaft sprockets, it's a shame that none show the little lines that should point at each other when everything is rigged up.

Excellent write up and pics. Should be a great help. Like a Haynes manual but in color.
 
#8 ·
dano said:
With all the pics of the backside of the camshaft sprockets, it's a shame that none show the little lines that should point at each other when everything is rigged up.

Excellent write up and pics. Should be a great help. Like a Haynes manual but in color.
Click to expand...
That is something I'm not familiar with. What little lines are those? Where are they located etc. Please post a pic if you can. The more information the better. Thanks :)
 
D
#10 ·
No, not on the flywheel. There are small indented lines on the outer edge of the camshaft sprockets. When everything is set up correctly the lines will both be facing each other and about level with the top of the head casting.

These are on the side of the camshaft sprockets facing the head.

It's in the Helm's manual if you want verification.
 
#11 ·
Holy crap, now if i only had that when i was putting my belt on i would have saved myself a trip to my mechanic. Definately a good writeup. +1 rep point.
 
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#12 ·
Yeah, I don't like changing the timing belt that way any more. That method works best when you have the motor out. Otherwise it can be a pain in the ass. After a lot trail and error, I happend appon a method that works for me.
Now I can put the belt on in about 10min. I did it last week and suprised myself.
 
M
#13 ·
dano said:
No, not on the flywheel. There are small indented lines on the outer edge of the camshaft sprockets. When everything is set up correctly the lines will both be facing each other and about level with the top of the head casting.

These are on the side of the camshaft sprockets facing the head.

It's in the Helm's manual if you want verification.
Click to expand...
correction. on every set of cam sprockets i've seen from a 3g lude, both sides of the sprockets have the scribe marks, side facing the head, and side facing away from the head
 
#14 · (Edited)
Thanks for the added info.

Originally poste by dano
With all the pics of the backside of the camshaft sprockets, it's a shame that none show the little lines that should point at each other when everything is rigged up.
Click to expand...
Thats a good thing to know. I obviously missed that. I can clearly see the scribe mark on the intake cam sprocket in the 8th picture. If only I would have known that the first time I did one. I may not have made my mistake. Thanks for pointing this out dano. Every little bit helps. I will post a pic when I get one. :yinyang:

Here is the Pic that shows the marks on the cam sprockets that need to be aligned while the crank is at TDC.
Image
 
D
#16 ·
OMega said:
Yeah, I don't like changing the timing belt that way any more. That method works best when you have the motor out. Otherwise it can be a pain in the ass. After a lot trail and error, I happend appon a method that works for me.
Now I can put the belt on in about 10min. I did it last week and suprised myself.
Click to expand...
Ha...that's nothing. I can change my timing belt in 5 min and the only tool I need is my swiss army knife.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I've always made the belt between the 2 gears tight before loosening the tensioner bolt...:dontgetit:
maybe thats what often takes me so long...but I found that if I leave any slack there, I'd end up a tooth off on one cam or the other.

OMega said:
Yeah, I don't like changing the timing belt that way any more. That method works best when you have the motor out. Otherwise it can be a pain in the ass. After a lot trail and error, I happend appon a method that works for me.
Now I can put the belt on in about 10min. I did it last week and suprised myself.
Click to expand...
share?

dano said:
Ha...that's nothing. I can change my timing belt in 5 min and the only tool I need is my swiss army knife.
Click to expand...
:lol: liar! :Rock:

I can do mine in 4 minutes with nothing but my car key :lol: :razz:
 
#23 ·
motoxxxman said:
my car doesnt have a timing belt that could ever need changing. i adapted computer controlled electro-magnets to my valves to open and close them, and a mousewheel to turn the distributor and cam sensor

PWNED!!
Click to expand...
I've been toying with that idea for quit a while. That would remove a lot of valve trane mass. The only problem is heat and magnets don't mix well. I wasn't going to use a mouse for the dizzy. I was thinking of using the 7th gen civics coil system and use the no.1 postion sensor for a trigger.
tsiah said:
I've always made the belt between the 2 gears tight before loosening the tensioner bolt...:dontgetit:
maybe thats what often takes me so long...but I found that if I leave any slack there, I'd end up a tooth off on one cam or the other.


share?
Click to expand...
I'll try to explain but rember its a practice makes perfect thing. Assuming everything is lined up. Move the ex cam into postion slide the belt over the ex cam. The intake cam should be a tooth off to the left. If you slide the belt on right the cam shold fall into postion. But wait the mark just moved and everything out of wack, right? Take a long straight slot screw driver move the flywheel up by wedging screw into the flywheel teeth driver until you see the mark via the timing hole. You should be able tighten tesisoner like the manuels states.
 
#24 ·
there are companies working with electronic valve lifters and others trying to make "rotary" valves so they can eliminate camshafts and drive belts.
with a system like this, the timing, lift and duration would be nearly infinitely variable and it would be variable on each individual cylinder and valve (you could do what honda does and create a swirl effect)


omega, I too want to switch to a coil on plug ignition :D shoot me a PM if you've come up with any way to do it that doesnt cost and arm and a leg :lol:
I know with the links ECU and some ingenuity, one could make it work...but I dont have that kind of money...I dont think the stock ECU (or even something like hondata)can run the drivers for 4 coils either (there might be a way to trick it to fire the same coil driver 4 times per revolution?...but timing would still be an issue)
 
#25 ·
tsiah said:
I know with the links ECU and some ingenuity, one could make it work...but I dont have that kind of money...I dont think the stock ECU (or even something like hondata)can run the drivers for 4 coils either (there might be a way to trick it to fire the same coil driver 4 times per revolution?...but timing would still be an issue)
Click to expand...
There was a guy on pgmfi that make a setup using soild state electronics, nothing fancey at all.
 
#26 ·
OMega said:
There was a guy on pgmfi that make a setup using soild state electronics, nothing fancey at all.
Click to expand...
recent stuff or old news?
 
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