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#1 |
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Newbie
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Rattle can paint job
anybody do a rattle can paint job to their car if so did it look good or was it really shitty also does anybody know how good metalspeck paint is does it look good when dried that is the paint i was thinking about spraying my car with thanks for any ideas or suggestions ~Mike~
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#2 |
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Elite Member
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get real paint, dont rattle can.
the only thing that will work is the primer, the rest will just wear off with weather and when you wash it more than likely.
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#3 |
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Preludepower Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Clover SC (45mins from Charlotte)
Posts: 2,029
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y? get macco to spray it...
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#4 |
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Lude Dude
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Woods of Georgia
Posts: 112
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Not a good idea for a complete job but it's ok for a temp repair.
'REAL' automotive paint is MUCH, MUCH better however. You should paint over the primered areas as soon as possible. PRIMER is 'hygroscopic' (absorbs water) and it will cause MORE rust faster if you don't get it covered up before it gets wet. Primer offers NO protection and is only to allow the paint something to stick to. If your primer has been driven thru the rain or you have washed your car with it on there, sand it off and apply fresh primer before you paint over it. Painting over old primer is something you don't want to do. It'll trap the moisture the primer has absorbed and the paint won't adhere to old primer. On to more info: Work on just ONE area at a time until you have finished it then move to another area. It's more work this way but the job will turn out better and the primer will be fresh on the surface you will be painting. Spray a self-etching primer over your repair, it's the green stuff. This stuff etches into the surface and will stick better than regular gray primer. Apply several coats of primer to build up the surface then sand it back down to eliminate any scratches that are left. Be careful sanding at this point because whatever faults you end up with here WILL be visible in the paint. Final sand with 800 grit sandpaper. Finer grit won't allow the paint a place to 'bite' into. Rattle can paint is thin so it won't cover 400 grit sanding scratches. Clean it, clean it and clean it some more. Mineral sprits will work good for cleaning/degreasing before paint application. It's cheap and will degrease well. Final clean with a microfiber cloth before spraying. Apply several light coats of paint. Wait a few minutes between coats for the paint to 'flash' (dry to a tacky consistency) then apply another coat. Keep building the paintup so that you can sand it down and blend it in with the old paint. That should be done with 1000, 1500 and 2000 all wet sanding with plenty of water. Used rubbing compound then apply a good coat of wax. You should come out with a GOOD 10 foot or better paint repair. A 10 foot paint job means when you stand back 10 feet, it looks really good. Closer will reveal some faults in the paint, LOL. Most FACTORY paint jobs are at BEST 5 foot paint jobs. It takes a LOT of skill and experience to get better than a 5 foot paint job. They are expensive and time consuming. This is just for your reference so you'll know what kind of job you're doing. My experience with rattle can painting is you have to get it all painted in (using several light coats) all at one time. A lot of times with rattle can paint if you come back and spray it again later, the new paint will attack the old paint and make it bubble, sag and do bad things. The thinners in the paint will soften what you have already sprayed and can cause the finish to crinkle. You can do a pretty descent repair this way. Just be PATIENT, take your time and if you don't like the way it looks, sand it off and do it again. MOST of painting is getting the surface ready to be painted. That's about 97% of painting. Spraying the paint on is the easy part. Enjoy your work, ti's supposed to be FUN!!!! |
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#5 |
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Lude Dude
![]() Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 119
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I primered my old bagged s10 with rattle can a billion different times, and it NEVER rusted. Never even showed signs of rust either so...idk maybe I just have good luck. But neways yea man dont do it, I would ride around with a shitty paint job before i would do it again. Just hit up maaco, and get the 300$ job
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1994 Honda Prelude Vtec Black with Aem cold air intake,DC Sports universal exaust,Neuspeed ceramic header,Fields Vafc,Premier HU,Infinity Reference 6.5's,Sanyo 50x2 amp,clear turn lights,15% tint
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#6 |
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Preludepower Member
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I just rattle canned by car with some primer. Some areas came out great, I.E. Sides of the car, but other areas, I.E. trunk, hood, and roof, came out bad. You can tell where I went back and forth on the paintjob. I don't know why.....
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#7 |
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True Luder
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lol
that would be pretty funny i think why dont you just get a real paint job?? save the trouble
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#8 |
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ROKSTARR
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okay, im not trying to be an ass but im tired of people saying why not get a paint job.. Why??, cause its effeing expensive getting a goob one, expecially here in oregon, their are few people who paint and the ones who do arnt cheap, we are a effing hick state, spray paint is the way we roll. (exempt me ) lol
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#9 | |
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I was the Future, once.
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Same goes for us Montana boys. I don't get it either. Life is not a beauty contest, and as long as you're trying to maintain a rust free vehicle, who gives a fuck if you have to respray it often, and who gives a fuck if it "doesn't look good."
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#10 |
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Newbie
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Go Ducks! I've experimented with rattle can paint. I painted the hood of my car, wet sanded the crap out of it and buffed it to a shine, not too bad although I did sand down to bare metal in a spot even with the primer on there. As for primer, I'm not sure with rattle can but I bought a court of epoxy primer surfacer and this DOES protect against weather conditions and such. A filler primer or primer surfacer will not however. So if you wanna drive around with primer be sure to make the top coat with a sealer and not a sandable primer cause it will soak up oil and hold moisture.
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#11 |
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ROKSTARR
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and ive actually seen a rattle can job that looked like a real paint job..
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#12 | ||
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Banned
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Quote:
Quote:
i would also not like to re-sand and respray my car every 3 months because my rattle-can job doesn't last. its quite a lot of work, and i'm sure i'm not alone on this one either. IMO do it once, do it right, aka not a rattle-can job. yeah, it may cost a lot, so you might not be able to afford it now. kind of like me and an nsx. they cost a lot and i don't have the money right now for one, so i will wait and save up til i do have enough someday for it. i did and i absolutely love the job they did on my lude. IMO its the best money i've spent on the car. Last edited by 90preludeLad; 02-11-2009 at 10:05 PM. |
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#13 |
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Newbie
![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 15
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How much did a pro paint job cost?
Original color? Much body-work & prep included? I'm trying to get a general idea before I stumble in to a paint shop.
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1991 Honda Prelude 2.0 Si Interstate Battery Kraco Floormats Otherwise stock |
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#14 |
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Lude Dude
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 136
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ehh, if youre going to rattle can it, do it flat black! or check this thread out for cheap maaco paint stuff http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=17790
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"your cars help you pick up girls, all mine picks up is groceries." |
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#15 |
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HOME GROWN HOMIE
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i hate when 3 year old threads come back from the dead.
do not spray paint your car. anyone! you will regret it when you go to get it professionally done down the road. dont do it as a bandaid to hold you over unless its a small spot. just dont do the entire car.
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#16 |
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Newbie
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 49
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my rattle can job
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#17 | |
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Vrooom PSHHHH
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I rattle canned my roof because it was REALLY faded and the clear was peeling. The primer went on nice, the base went on nice, but OMG THE CLEAR SUCKS!!!!!!!! I've spend SOOOO much time wetsanding and buffing it and it looks nice now, but holy crap it's so much work. The clear sprayed like crap so I basically had to put an ass-load of clear on, and then just sand it down to get a good finish because the way it came out was god-awful
I could never imagine doing an entire car lol, you would have to be insane unless maybe you did a single stage or something, nothing involving clear though haha
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#18 |
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I am Prelude
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Yea, don't use clear. The really good looking ones don't use clear coat a lot of the time.
Here is my roller job. There is clearly some orange peel, although it looks better now than it did in those pics. It took a ridiculous amount of wet sanding and painting. I'd never do it again just because of all the time/work. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#19 |
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Lude Addict
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^ looks really good actually
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#20 | |
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Lude Dude
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 143
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I had a single stage black paint job from Maaco on an old civic and over all it turned out great. Sure, it wasn't a show quality but it certainly look great from 10ft. I would do it again if on a budget. |
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#21 |
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HOME GROWN HOMIE
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This is why you dont roller/spray bomb your car. Its pretty bad that I need to bookmark this thread so I can post it on the 100s of threads that people make about spray painting their car.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2490171
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#22 | |
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Lude Dude
![]() Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: newburgh ny
Age: 31
Posts: 166
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#23 | |
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I am Prelude
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My car has about 3 layers of real auto paint under the rustoleum btw.
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#24 |
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Newbie
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 17
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#25 |
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Newbie
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
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ive had two vehicles i primered black..never rusted...then again im in cali
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