THE OIL PUMP SEAL INSTALL THREAD (pics)

cudaboy · Oct 13, 2004

Ok I know some of guys had no clue of what I was talking about when I brought this topic up several months ago. PVC pipe?? Whats that?? so hear you go: I could not find a socket deep enough with the proper diameter. I even have a 1" drive socket set. Just nothing deep enough for the crank. So I went to the hardware store and found the Perfect Oil pump seal install tool. A 1"1/4 pvc pipe coupler that is 2"1/8 long. The white one was too short but the gray one (for elictrical pipe I believe) was just what the doctor ordered. With this "coupler" and a washer I bought (2" and hair more/wide). The inside diameter of washer is a 1/32" bigger than 3/4" at 13/32". I was able to use the stock crank pulley bolt and press/drive in the oil pump seal effectively and evenly. Its simple, Its cheap and it works. For the cam seals I just used a large socket and bought a longer bolt the same size as the cam gear bolt.

Oil Pump Front Seal / Front crank seal tool:
1 1/4" PVC Coupler. 2 1/8" Long
Washer: 2" O.D. 13/32 I.D. Hole (just over 3/4")
or: IE 50mm O.D. 21mm I.D.
Stock Crank Pulley bolt

Like the degreasing job??

cudaboy · Oct 23, 2007

For cam seal install I am pretty sure I used an 1 1/8" socket. It seems to fit the washers I bought pretty well. I no longer have the seal to compare. With that in mind the craftsman 30 mm or 29mm fit real good too. If you get the 30 mm then you can use it on the oil cooler / filter pipe to replace the oring behind it.

30mm dimensions match the 1 1/8" at 1 7/8" long, or 42mm long. The diameter of outside of washer is 38mm.

The bolt is an M8 or metric 8mm and as aposed to the 22mm normal length it is 40mm long.

fcukwithmeprelude · Oct 23, 2007

Good info.

You replaced it with the engine in the car... I take it that it was leaking then?

cudaboy · Oct 23, 2007

yeah during t-belt replacement fall '04. The exhaust cam seal was the worst. It was hard and crusty and basicaly fell apart in my hand while removing it and once out.

johcamp · Jan 19, 2008

Cuda, i know this is an old thread, but i think mine is leaking as well and was wondering what steps are involved to remove the old oil pump seal?

i already have my timing belt off.

cudaboy · Jan 19, 2008

You just take off the t-belt drive gear on crank and its 2 washers. Pry out the old seal and use a pvc coupler and washer from the hardware store that match these dimensions. To get it started I think I sqaurly pushed the seal on. Then just put the coupler over it and washer and stock crankpulley bolt. Line everything up nicely and then start cranking the bolt in with a rachet and socket. Take your time and take it loose if you need to inspect how the seal is going in. Super easy. You can eyeball how far the old seal is in before taking it out. Yeah lube the seal if it doesn't have any. Most honda dealership seals are prelubed. Aftermarket not necesarily

johcamp · Jan 20, 2008

Sounds good. There is a ton of oil caked on the bottom of my lower timing cover, so i might as well replace this as well. I guess the only thing that's not leaking on the old b21a1 are the rings......Imagine that:Oo:

cudaboy · Jan 20, 2008

sounds like the way mine was. 17 years old go figure. be proactive and avoid headaches and breakdowns later. I figure with that attitude it atleast has a chance.

HCF · Jan 20, 2008

To easily remove the old seal.. i usualy thread in 2 drywall screws opposite of eachother.. Grab some plyers and pull. This makes sure you don't make knicks in the surface you are sealing. Good luck!

johcamp · Jan 20, 2008

The timing belt pulley doesn't want to come off the crank. Did you run inti any problems here?

cudaboy · Jan 20, 2008

If your talking about the toothed gear for the t-belt on crank, no I don't recall any problems. I forget does it have a woodruff key in it against the crank? If so you might have tap the gear backwards and remove key.

The actual crank pulley bolt was a bitch but sounds like you already got that off.

HCF · Jan 20, 2008

It is reccomended by HOnda that you replace the keyway that holds that pulley in place.. Yours.. like mine is probably rusted in place. Its like 3 or 4 dollars.. but it also gave me a hassle in removing the pulley. Most important- pull straight! Don't let it rock back and forth it will get lodged worse.. When it comes loose.. you may fly backwards.. but twisting is not a good idea. Try some penetrating oil and let it sit for a little while.. best of luck to you

johcamp · Jan 21, 2008

all right i will give it a go! Thanks guys!

tsiah · Jan 21, 2008

my friend, you are a genius!
there are special tools available to do this same exact thing, but they cost ~$200 for the crank/cam/balance shaft seal drivers :| and you could easily do all those things with this setup

cudaboy · Jan 21, 2008

Yeah my uncle that has the saleens and shelby's does all the mantence on the familys cars down south and he is a Pipe fitter soo it wasn't to far of a stretch. He probably had the stuff laying around knowing him. He claims he got the idea when he saw a ford driver set at a swap meet that was pricey. I just added the washer and bolt press/screw drive idea.

johcamp · Jan 21, 2008

that damned toothed gear will not come off!!!! The Key is off and everything. I have no way to get a grip on it either. i guess maybe i will go get a pulley puller and try that. This sucks! i coulda had her up and running this weekend, but now i'm gonna have to wait till the next.

cudaboy · Jan 21, 2008

Did you try prying it off? I figure you probably have. Just thought I would mention it.

johcamp · Jan 21, 2008

I could pry on it but i'll eff up that special washer....

Special.... why do people always say special when something is effin retarded....:shock:

elmotive · Jan 21, 2008

My gear on the crank was stuck to. I had the crank out so it was a bit easier. But I still had to heat the gear and hammer it off with a sledge hammer. I had the crank polished and now the gear slides on as new.

johcamp · Jan 22, 2008

Thanks elmotive. At least i'm not the only one. Guess i will have to try my damndest with the crank in the motor.

cudaboy · Jan 22, 2008

The washer is only $3.17 each at sanleandro honda. So it shouldn't be more than $4 at your local stealership. Call them and see if they can get one or 2 by friday. Grab a sturdy gasket scraper or thin pry bar and have at it after spraying it down with pb blaster. Now that the key is out should be able to take a shop rag to protect you hand and try twisting the gear and pulling to.

johcamp · Jan 22, 2008

I finally got it off. Seems all the thing wanted from me was a funky/sexual/backbreaking/ acrobatic act of dancing under the prelude while tightly gripping it's toothed shaft and pulling outward in a slow and steady motion:wow:.

My forearms are sure sore but the crank blew it's load so i'm happy.

BTW cuda i LOVE you. I'm not gay or anyhting but man you just saved me a whole lotta money/heartache. Imma have to by you a beer sometime.

Thanks everyone.

cudaboy · Jan 23, 2008

congrats

BTW, There is 2 guide washers, one on each side of gear. Mine was missing the front one and the belt was chewing a track into the plastic cover.

THE OIL PUMP SEAL INSTALL THREAD (pics)

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