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Old 12-09-2015, 08:14 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Daugaard View Post
bouckarooo i salute you.
The K is by far the best engine honda has made so the car will be awesome when its done.
If you finnish first i will gladly trade you some cash for engine mounts!
I appreciate it!


Although IMO the Honda J series motor is the best motor Honda has made, especially the j32a2 and the j35a8 from the type s tl.


To each their own, and fact is, this swap will iekly require the assistance of both Jon and Sean as well as others on this site. Franlkly, as much as I know about Hondas, my 3rd gen experience is limited. So, with that said there may be some questions that arise form time to time, and I encourage everyone to be involved, whether debating or not, as it is still stimulus for the swap.


I think euphoric tree will be pleased once the swap if finalized.


Now if we could just track down some ITBs...
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:30 PM   #52
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Although IMO the Honda J series motor is the best motor Honda has made, especially the j32a2 and the j35a8 from the type s tl.
I've so far failed to persuade the mrs to let me throw our J35 (RL) in to a Lude.


Quote:
Now if we could just track down some ITBs...
If you don't mind some fabricating and fettling.. a set of bkike ITBs would be my suggestion.
My CBR ITBs are on hold since forever ago but when I stop getting laid down with house moves and now having no workshop.....
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:13 PM   #53
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So, this thread back from the dead, with some really goodness as well.

I recently took a couple AWOL days at work and ran home to finish up some work I had on the go, a Nissan 240 clutch, a PNP and rebuild on a H22 head, as well as a couple oil changes and some tires. Then, late the one night I ralsie di had 24 hours and nothing ont he lift, nothing schedualed for work, so I pulled Jamies third gen prelude into the shop.

I cleane dup the engine bay, removed the power steering pump, lines, resovioir, as well as the distiburot blocks, lines and wiring. I also, loosened the fuse box and got the rest of the engine bay ready to drop the engine in for fitment inspection.

Turns out, the k motor fits nicely into the 3rd gen bay. Sure it sits high, a bt low, but over all the axle angle and fitment isn't so bad.

I took the carrot top mounts, and fit them to the motor, and then checked the engine bay and it turns out the Carrot top EG mounts will work nicely. They need some modification done to them but over all defeintly are able to make work.

Now, with all that said, putting the k engine in ot the 3rd gen bay was easier than putting the B20a/b21 engine into it. Kinda funny how that works.

Some notation:
OEM 3rd gen radiator will not work.
I am using a full 2005 acura rsx harness.
I will be using the oem k20z3 shifter unit with or without e brake.
Oem K series exhaust header will not fit well at all. Need AM one.
A huge hole int he hood will suffice for now, but will be addressed once full mounting is finished.


I will post some preliminary pics up for you fine fellas in a bit here, ince I get settled back into work.

All in all this swap wil be a great one to have done on the third gen, and will likely be easier to do than the h22 swap.

I was surprised at how easy the k motor fit in this engine bay and how much room there really is, minus the brake proportioning valve, it is in the way but not really, but would be allot better if located elsewhere, but that is allot of work so we will see how it goes.
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 07-20-2016, 02:58 PM   #54
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Here are some preliminary pictures. I ve gotten the engine bay cleaned up and ready, then the engine stripped down and then the whole setup on some milk boxes, sitting in the engine bay for reference.

The Carrot Top mounts need some modifications, but will work just fine with some tweaking.

My nexty set of days off I will egt more pictures of the munts and the chassis fabrication required to get it alls etup, but here are some pictures just to appease and piss off the third gen community.

I will say this swap will kick ass!




















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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:43 PM   #55
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Yeah there was never any issue with the spacing of the motor while dropping in the engine and tranny.

The H22 swap drops in just as easy, its just getting the mounts tighten down and bolted while keeping the motor in place.

Its actually easier to get to the backside of the H22 than the B20/21.

Cutting a hole in the 3rd gen hood is considered taboo in this community thats why its not a popular swap.

Especially for guys who want to daily drive this thing.

But that was already established.

If I am seeing this right you pushed the motor higher up to get the better ground clearance???
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:02 PM   #56
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For testing purposes, this engine is sitting higher than wanted, ive been kicking the idea of a modified oil pan, to increase oil pan clearance.

In these pictures the engine is straight not tilted as well as is about an inch high as i needed room to slip the mount in and out while i was modifying it.

With a bit of tilt, and a modified oil pan i thino this k kotor will fit nicely.

The axle angle seems to line up really well also, frankly i expected more difficulty than this with this swap, but really so far ive been lucky.

There were two spots where i cut the rear subframe, again just tentative to make clearance for initial fitting. We ill see how it goes!
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:24 AM   #57
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Cutting some stuff (as long as it's re-worked to keep required strength) shouldn't be an issue when it's for the greater good (end result).

Have you looked at dry sump options for the K? Possibly two benefits for solving one problem.

Looks good so far though
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:41 AM   #58
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Josh understand that using a low profile oil pan does nothing for ground clearance.

The issue is the transmission bell housing.
So the engine will have to mount much higher in the engine bay to get the ground clearance that people want which means poking the engine much higher outside of the engine bay.
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:47 PM   #59
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:32 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by 1funryd View Post
Josh understand that using a low profile oil pan does nothing for ground clearance.

The issue is the transmission bell housing.
So the engine will have to mount much higher in the engine bay to get the ground clearance that people want which means poking the engine much higher outside of the engine bay.
The oil.pan sticks down below the transmission a 2x4 and three paint stir sticks, as that is what i had to use to shim the transmission side si the engine sits flush.

By my calculations i can cut off 1 inch of oil pam, then weld in a 1/4" sheet to seal the pan back up(pan is already destroyed, so its either replace or modify/repair). If i go this route i gain 3/4" of lower clearamce as well as maiantin a 1/2" protrusion od the oil pan past the transmission.

I think the fitment will work well, and though there will be some hood poke, i do not think it is as much as the fearmongering on here would lead one to beleive.

My biggest concern is if i tilt the engine to much i pull the axle angle forward a bit, which i do jot want, so perhaps a lil poke isbetter than poor axle alignmemt.
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:47 PM   #61
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Correct, axle alignment is more crucial for the swap than anything else.
Axle bind is huge problem and is why its the most important part of any swap.
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:13 PM   #62
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A hood scoop on a 3G isn't all that bad when it's for a purpose.
We've all seen them fitted for no other reason than someone thinks they look good !
Having a valid reason is progress.

If you can still see where you're going but arrive there sooner it's OK.
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:16 PM   #63
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I think it will be possible to make it llok nice and be functional as well, and once the car is moving and driving, it will be so so much fun!
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:33 AM   #64
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Lookin good man. Keep up the good work
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:27 AM   #65
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So, I just got off the phone with ARE over a dry sump setup, they are currently sending me some data in this regard, however, they are not sure of the k20z3 oil pan bolt pattern as the a2. The cost of the dry sump setups on these is quite alrge so I doubt ETree will want to go that route, but I will have that as an option for him if he so chooses.

One ting I noticed abtou the dry sump is that there is only a slight reduction in oil pan size, so not sure if that would be beneficial or not.

I do klnow that if I tilt the engine back more, then the transmission will come into play as being the lowest part, as Sean as stated, as it currently sitst that is not the case, but I will address that part when ig et back home.

Also, I got an email back form AT Power in England, they sent me the quote for their much better dry sump system, however at 3500#(THAT IS POUND SIGN NOT HASTAGBROHASTAG SIGN) it is just a wee bit above the budget, alhoguh it looks kick ass and most certainly works well!

In any event, just a short blurb on the dry sump stuff, just in case it bears relevance to the swap down the road.
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:08 AM   #66
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however at 3500#(THAT IS POUND SIGN NOT HASTAGBROHASTAG SIGN)

In any event, just a short blurb on the dry sump stuff, just in case it bears relevance to the swap down the road.
So 3500 then
Although now could be the time to buy from the UK before the regains it's status after our EU vote.

I'll have a word with my racing buddies and see what they're using these days and let you know.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:18 AM   #67
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How easily available are K24 sumps here?
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:33 AM   #68
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Waiting for confirmation but I suspect the K-tuned K24 sump isa good option (and cheap).
Then a case from maybe a CRV (awaiting reply) needed or the flywheel is exposed. That gives more tranny clearance.
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Old 07-25-2016, 12:17 PM   #69
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Waiting for confirmation but I suspect the K-tuned K24 sump isa good option (and cheap).
Then a case from maybe a CRV (awaiting reply) needed or the flywheel is exposed. That gives more tranny clearance.


Lol, yes I meant the british pound symbol but couldn't find it on the list of symbols.


I hadn't thought about the low british pound, you're right now would be great time to buy it! Although still pricey for just a daily driven kinda swap lol.


I will look into the ktuned sumps, I didn't realise they made one.

I appreciate the insight and the help tracking down some dry sump info! Thanks Jon!
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:49 PM   #70
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Madesome progress last night. We moved the brake prop.valve to behind the shick tower, and by doing so were able to.pull the engine back a bit more.also, being i had on hand a spare k24 engine, we decided to try and test fit the k24 intake manifold. Turns out it fits great and narrows the over all length dow avout 2 inches, allowi g much more clearance.

So, i finished modifying the carrot top mounts and welded the driver side mount into the chassis, then got the rear mount all.setup good as well as fabricated the passenger side mount.

All in all, this engine fits well into this car, however, being the hood is removed i canmot say how much hood workwill he required for closure. But, the engine fits, axle angle is great, ground clearance seems good.

Ill post pics soon.
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:41 PM   #71
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Sounds like good progress so far
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:05 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by bouckarooo View Post
...So, i finished modifying the carrot top mounts and welded the driver side mount into the chassis...
You what???!!!
Why did not just build a custom bracket?
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:42 PM   #73
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That is exactly what i have done. I modified the aluminium dog ear mount made by carrot top, then welded the custom built bracket to the chassis of the car.

The only engine mount that was bolt onable was the rear, howevwr i had to drill new holes in that as well so that it qould bolt into the oem rear location.

I will post some pics wuen i have some time and am at a real computer not a cell phone.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:58 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouckarooo View Post
That is exactly what i have done. I modified the aluminium dog ear mount made by carrot top, then welded the custom built bracket to the chassis of the car.

It's not so easy to mod the stock mounts when you're using the later engines is it. Having the motor/trans on the other side makes it more involving.
But you're doing (it seems before seeing pics) exactly what I'd expect.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:12 PM   #75
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Im doing r, really the only way possible, use dog ears that fit the engine and work, them make brackets to weld to the car to fit. Bolting these brackets to the framerail will not work due to the angulur change; making custom brackets and qelding them on the two frame rails is the best and only real option for secure and fitting mounting.

I have many pictures and will post them soon.
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