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Old 11-09-2010, 11:09 AM   #51
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do you have an sh? if not go at it from the bottom, the atts unit on the sh is in the way, but on the base, you can get to it. you just gotta manipulate your hands down to the oil filter, really if you can get your oil filter off, you can get the cooler off.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:11 AM   #52
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Quote:
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I think you need to add to the DIY how you did it in 15 min on an SH. It took me 15 minutes too... after I took out the ATTS.
Fal- I know I said I'd add to that thread...I have pictures coming soon.

whaaaaaaat? why did you take the atts unit off? lmao, no need to go that far to get to the oil cooler. just like i said to coop, if you can get your oil filter off, you can get the cooler off. just do exactly like the diy says, its a tight fit, but its not hard. really, impact guns help too.
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Last edited by biglegs; 11-09-2010 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:24 AM   #53
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It's only 54lbs of torque too, a half inch drive will be able to remove that no problem. On the SH it should be gone after from the top just like changing the oil filter.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:25 AM   #54
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yup, what he said^
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:49 AM   #55
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whaaaaaaat? why did you take the atts unit off? lmao, no need to go that far to get to the oil cooler. just like i said to coop, if you can get your oil filter off, you can get the cooler off. just do exactly like the diy says, its a tight fit, but its not hard. really, impact guns help too.
I have an Sh, and a skunk2 mani, hand bearly fits, I can take the oil filter off. But i cant get the tool in there to take the top off the oil cooler. If i go from the bottom the i would have to take the axle out and maybe the atts unit! what a bitch!!! Im looking into a relocation kit by greddy at the moment.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:28 PM   #56
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that wont move your cooler though, just the filter. you gotta get the cooler off to get to the o-ring.i used an impact, so you should be able to get to it with a 1/2" drive 3" extension. a universal joint might help if the angle is difficult. but honestly, even with the skunk2 mani, you should have no problems getting it off. its tight, and you cant really swing the oil cooler too far, and getting the oring on and keeping it inplace is really the most difficult part.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:33 PM   #57
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Quote:
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that wont move your cooler though, just the filter. you gotta get the cooler off to get to the o-ring.i used an impact, so you should be able to get to it with a 1/2" drive 3" extension. a universal joint might help if the angle is difficult. but honestly, even with the skunk2 mani, you should have no problems getting it off. its tight, and you cant really swing the oil cooler too far, and getting the oring on and keeping it inplace is really the most difficult part.
Ur right about the location of the cooler. So ill give it another shot today. but i might have to go from underneath.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:33 PM   #58
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This should really be in the oil cooler thread but-
I had the ATTS out already because I was doing a bunch of other stuff. No matter if I went at it from the top or bottom and used a shallow or deep socket I could not for the life of me get a wrench on there until the ATTS was out.
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:16 PM   #59
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i have an sh as well, i got mine out with no problems. dunno why you guys are even thinking about removing the atts unit or axles. you are going waaaaaaaay out of your way just to get to the cooler. i followed fals write up , step by step. only difference is i used an impact gun. IF YOU CAN GET YOUR FILTER OFF, YOU CAN GET THE COOLER OFF. its a bitch, but its the way i did it. it might not have been 15 minutes, but it definitelywas under an hours worth of work.
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Last edited by biglegs; 11-09-2010 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:14 AM   #60
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I had it done, My friend has a shop kpowered. But In order to get the cooler ring out he had to do it from under neath, pull the axle off too. No more oil Leaking!
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Old 11-10-2010, 02:52 PM   #61
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still dunno why he had to pull an axle, but at least you got it done! told you it was the cooler, those things are a bitch!!! rep?
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:31 AM   #62
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this is wat i needed.. now only if it got a lil warmer in PA i can get this shit done. THX MommysLittleHelper
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Old 11-14-2010, 06:25 PM   #63
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repped. Awesome thread!
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:06 PM   #64
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still dunno why he had to pull an axle, but at least you got it done! told you it was the cooler, those things are a bitch!!! rep?
My strut bar was in the way, and the manifold. But he got it done... I'll give rep.
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Old 12-31-2010, 02:26 PM   #65
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ok so im getting my clutch done soon. Should I trust this ebay rear main seal, or should i drive up ~50 miles to the closest honda dealership and get it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-P...Q5fAccessories
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:36 PM   #66
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ok so im getting my clutch done soon. Should I trust this ebay rear main seal, or should i drive up ~50 miles to the closest honda dealership and get it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-Pro-BS40430-Rear-Main-Bearing-Seal-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aPreludeQQhashZitem 1e606fa321QQitemZ130466947873QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fT ruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I would get an OEM honda part. Fel-Pro is okay, but hard to beat OEM. You can order it from Majestic Honda, they'll ship it to your door.
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Old 01-10-2011, 01:19 PM   #67
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I would get an OEM honda part. Fel-Pro is okay, but hard to beat OEM. You can order it from Majestic Honda, they'll ship it to your door.
Well thanks bro, i already bought from the dealership.. cost me $23 including taxes. I was cheaper at majestic but the shipping was killer. They were going to charge me $28 and on top of that I'll have to wait a few days.
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:13 PM   #68
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this helped alot!!
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:24 PM   #69
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Allways go Oem on seals, belts plugs.....
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:13 PM   #70
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this helped alot!!
That's why I do these writeups. Thanks for the rep!
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:55 PM   #71
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Bringing this back a little... I have an SH and I got my Oil cooler o-ring replaced, OEM part used, but I'm still leaking quite a bit, maybe even more. Is there something else I might be overlooking?
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:17 AM   #72
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I have a pretty bad oil leak but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I'm leaking a couple courts every couple weeks so it's starting to be a pain in my ass to keep up with it. I went to go remove my valve cover before the winter, and all but 2 of my bolts came out. The one in the middle, and the front drivers side bolt. They just kept spinning, and spinning, no matter if I was trying to tighten or loosen them. I figured these were probably my culprits and I was leaking from my valve cover probably from those spots. So.... how would you guys go about fixing this? Do you think my valve cover studs are stripped? Or maybe the block itself is stripped and I need a helicoil or timesert?
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:09 AM   #73
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Bringing this back a little... I have an SH and I got my Oil cooler o-ring replaced, OEM part used, but I'm still leaking quite a bit, maybe even more. Is there something else I might be overlooking?
Read through the thread man, there's a lot of places for oil to leak on H22's. Just gotta look around and find them!

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I have a pretty bad oil leak but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I'm leaking a couple courts every couple weeks so it's starting to be a pain in my ass to keep up with it. I went to go remove my valve cover before the winter, and all but 2 of my bolts came out. The one in the middle, and the front drivers side bolt. They just kept spinning, and spinning, no matter if I was trying to tighten or loosen them. I figured these were probably my culprits and I was leaking from my valve cover probably from those spots. So.... how would you guys go about fixing this? Do you think my valve cover studs are stripped? Or maybe the block itself is stripped and I need a helicoil or timesert?
That's hard to say for sure, sounds like the standoffs might be stripped or something similar. Try to find a way to take the valve cover completely off and check them out.

Take all of the nuts off of the outside of the valvecover first, then do the 3-4 on the inside of the cover. Odds are someone overtightened them at one point, and stripped where they are held in the head. If that is the case, you may have to helicoil the spots where they were stripped, or find a way to clean up the threads with a tap.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:34 PM   #74
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Awesome thread! Def going to help me stop my leaky H22
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Old 06-12-2011, 11:41 PM   #75
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This thread is indeed awesome but I have a question.... I recently changed my VTEC solenoid gasket, about 1000miles ago if not way less but it still leaks a bit when I put my finger under the bottom bolt to check. Not much of a leak but there definitely is a noticeble amount.

Now my question is did anyone ever encounter this issue and/or use HondaBond around the VTEC solenoid gasket? Perhaps use a different type of sealant? I hate leaks and I want this sealed up right... Yes I made sure the bolts are screwed in tight.

Help

Thanks
Mike
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