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  #1  
Old 04-05-2010, 08:45 PM
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Kaizenspeed balance shaft eliminator

Balance shaft eliminator kit information:

KAIZENSPEED Balance Shaft Eliminator kit for H22a/a1, H22a4, H23, F20, F22, F23 engines!

Solid dowel pin installed in main cap

Oil pump w/ BS eliminator kit installed

Girdle/main caps w/ eliminator plugs installed


KAIZENSPEED has developed the only balance shaft eliminator kit in the WORLD for the H and F series engines. Using our kit, you will eliminate over 10 pounds of rotating weight from your engine, increase your oil pressure, and make for much faster and simpler timing belt changes.

Full kit includes:
-Required tap for your engine
-Reviewed plug
-Billet steel plugs to maintain and increase oil pressure
-Billet aluminum plugs for oil pump
-Billet aluminum blockoff plate for rear balance shaft gearcase
-Billet steel spacer to eliminate balance shaft drive pulley (except H22a4)
-Sticker to let people know that you have eliminated the balance shafts!
-Step-by-step instructions for easy installation

Price: $125 + shipping.
Need more than one kit? Contact us for shop & dealer pricing.

To purchase send paypal to: Reid@KAIZENSPEED.com or call (509) 585-0900.


What are balance shafts?
Balance shafts are most common in inline four cylinder (straight-4) engines which, due to the asymmetry of their design, have an inherent second order vibration (vibrating at twice the engine RPM) which, contrary to popular belief, cannot be eliminated no matter how well the internal components are balanced. This vibration is generated because the movement of the connecting rods in an inline engine is not symmetrical throughout the crankshaft rotation; thus during a given period of crankshaft rotation, the descending pistons and ascending pistons are not always completely opposed in their acceleration, giving rise to a net vertical inertial force twice in each revolution whose intensity increases exponentially with RPM, no matter how closely the components are matched for weight. See the 0 degree cylinder angle, 180 degree crankshaft angle animated example here for a very clear depiction of this sometimes hard to visualize vibration (as well as the mathematical equation which describes it).
The problem increases with larger engine displacement, since the only ways to achieve larger displacement are with a longer piston stroke, increasing the difference in acceleration, or by a larger bore, increasing the mass of the pistons; either way, the magnitude of the inertial vibration increases. For many years, two litres was viewed as the 'unofficial' displacement limit for a production inline four cylinder engine with acceptable NVH characteristics. The development of the General Motors 2.3 litre Quad 4 engine in 1987, described as "rough as a cob" by one automotive reviewer, and its subsequent development into the much more positively received 2.4 litre version with balance shafts confirms the wisdom of this assessment.
The basic concept behind balance shafts has existed for nearly a century and is no longer patentable. Two balance shafts rotate in opposite directions at twice engine speed. Equally sized eccentric weights on these shafts are sized and phased so that the inertial reaction to their counter-rotation cancels out in the horizontal plane, but adds in the vertical plane, giving a net force equal to but 180 degrees out of phase with the undesired second-order vibration of the basic engine, thereby canceling it. (Some motorcycle enthusiasts believe that Honda's original application of this technology to their V-twin motorcycle engine overly damped out the vibration, giving an excessively 'dead' feel, so that they later reduced the size of the balance shafts in order to furnish the rider with some feedback as to engine speed).
The actual implementation of the concept, however, is concrete enough to be patented. The basic problem presented by the concept is adequately supporting and lubricating a part rotating at twice engine speed, at the higher RPMs where the second order vibration becomes unacceptable. Mitsubishi Motors pioneered the design in the modern era with its "Silent Shaft" Astron engines in 1975, with balance shafts located low on the side of the engine block, driven by chains from the oil pump, and subsequently licensed the patent to Porsche, then to other manufacturers. Since then, other manufacturers have adapted the same basic layout to their needs.
Saab has further refined the balance shaft principle to overcome second harmonic sideways vibrations (due to the same basic asymmetry in engine design, but much smaller in magnitude) by locating the balance shafts with lateral symmetry but at different heights above the crankshaft, thereby introducing a torque which counteracts the sideways vibrations at double engine RPM, resulting in an exceptionally smooth four cylinder engine.
There is some debate as to how much power the twin balance shafts cost the engine. The basic figure given is usually around 15 horsepower (11 kW), but this seems excessive for pure friction losses. It is likely that this is a miscalculation derived from the common use of an inertial dynamometer, which calculates power from angular acceleration rather than actual measurement of steady state torque. The 15 horsepower (11 kW), then, includes both the actual frictional loss as well as the increase in angular inertia of the rapidly rotating shafts, which would not be a factor at steady speed. Nevertheless, many owners modify their engines by removing the balance shafts, both to reclaim some of this power, but also to reduce complexity and potential areas of breakage for high performance and racing use. As mentioned above, it is commonly believed that the smoothness provided by the balance shafts can be attained after their removal by careful balancing of the reciprocating components of the engine, but that stems from a basic misunderstanding of their operation.
Will I feel extra vibration once I have eliminated my balance shafts?
Eliminating the balance shafts will not be for everyone. However the vibration from eliminating the balance shafts is unnoticeable to some people and is less than the increased vibration you feel from poly motor mount inserts or mounts. In over 3 years of eliminating balance shafts people are continually surprised that the vibration is minimal.


Let me just say that I just put the balance shaft eliminator in my H22A in about an hour and a half to 2 hour with the help of my dad. I had the timing side and oil pump off to begin with but, the kit wasn't very difficult to install at all. I was very impressed with the quality of the parts provided with the kit including the plug bolt for the block and the tap to tap the block. I was very very scared to tap the block but after starting i realized it wasn't all too bad and feel very secure about the block being free of debris and metal shavings. I also feel it's nearly impossible to mess up the tapping part.

The engine was in my 4th gen lude while the kit was installed. The rear balance shaft came out fairly easy with the help of an engine lift to lower the motor after i removed the front and driver's side engine mounts. the front balance shaft I haven't quite taken out yet due to daylight but i plan on removing it while the engine is in the car also. The main cap bolts easily are the most difficult part of this install because they are torqued so tight. Overall, for the little oil pressure i gained and the rotational weight I lost and before even driving the vehicle to see the gains, I'd do it again if I could go back. Well worth the time and money if you have your motor in your vehicle and even more worth it out of the vehicle.

I'd suggest you replace the timing belt and water pump as I did while this side is apart if you end up doing this conversion. I also got a new oil pump and TDC/CPK sensor since my car is a 96 and I have all those stupid sensors. Good luck to all who try this.


And to those who say 2-3 hp isn't worth it, think of it this way. $125 for 2-3hp (make it 2.5) is $50 per hp. The same amount of money given to a turbo kit that adds 100hp would be $5000. Plus you get the added bonus of less weight and more oil pressure. So i would say this is just as cost efficient as a decent turbo build..

Enjoy.
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  #2  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:58 PM
Prudz_lude Prudz_lude is offline
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Incorrect, Rosko Racing makes these kits. I bought the kazinspeed and i'm upset with it. It costs more than Rosko's, and the key part is it does not include a spacer that is REQUIRED to actually use their product in the first place. Meaning i had to order Rosko's spacer to make THEIR kit to work. Definately not to pleased with it.
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2010, 11:19 PM
jlude90 jlude90 is offline
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Did you call Kaizenspeed and ask them?

My kit came with one, and I remember them announcing that their new kits included a lighter aluminum one. Are you sure something didn't just get left out?

I am very please with my kit, and would recommend them. Rosko's kit is cheaper because it requires you to do more work than the Kaizenspeed kit, and the KS kit is more of a direct bolt-on than Rosko's kit.

Not saying Rosko's is junk by any means, but the kits are different and IMO incomparable, both good in their own right, but different nonetheless.
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  #4  
Old 04-05-2010, 11:20 PM
ludetech ludetech is offline
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i recently installed this kit and mine came with the spacer. im very happy with the way it looks and the fairly quick and easy install.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2010, 02:25 PM
Prudz_lude Prudz_lude is offline
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well fuck. Mine did not include the spacer. I bought mine about 1 year ago so i guess i bought it at the worst time possible
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2010, 01:21 AM
niteLude niteLude is offline
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Great info on balance shafts. Thx!
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  #7  
Old 12-11-2010, 08:03 AM
sleepy cg3 sleepy cg3 is offline
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i agree... i might be doing this with my H23vtec hybrid buiild
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  #8  
Old 12-11-2010, 12:48 PM
Bruised_ego Bruised_ego is offline
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i sent kz an email asking if the h22 kit the same as the f23 kits. from what i have read, one of the blocks for the f23 is a little larger.

needless to say kz has not rsponded.
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  #9  
Old 12-11-2010, 12:52 PM
98vtec 98vtec is offline
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they are at PRI this weekend
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2010, 01:41 PM
Ludasaurus Ludasaurus is offline
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Mack, forgot to ask. What part exactly have you read that doesn't fit?
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  #11  
Old 12-12-2010, 01:11 PM
Bruised_ego Bruised_ego is offline
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i think one of for the shaft is a different size.

im not really entirely sure about it but i do believe that there is a small difference between the 2
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2011, 11:25 PM
Breaking Point Breaking Point is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlude90 View Post
Did you call Kaizenspeed and ask them?

My kit came with one, and I remember them announcing that their new kits included a lighter aluminum one. Are you sure something didn't just get left out?

I am very please with my kit, and would recommend them. Rosko's kit is cheaper because it requires you to do more work than the Kaizenspeed kit, and the KS kit is more of a direct bolt-on than Rosko's kit.

Not saying Rosko's is junk by any means, but the kits are different and IMO incomparable, both good in their own right, but different nonetheless.
what is diff in the rosko kit? like what makes you do more work?
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2011, 11:33 PM
98vtec 98vtec is offline
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You have to knocj out the bs bearings and spin them. Did it on traviss motor I rebuilt which was still.blown up lol
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2011, 11:45 PM
Breaking Point Breaking Point is offline
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lmao nice,so would it be worth doing in my dd car as well as my other builds?
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2011, 11:33 AM
kornkid21792 kornkid21792 is offline
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what is this spacer you speak of?
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  #16  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:19 PM
pineabs pineabs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kornkid21792 View Post
what is this spacer you speak of?
i think its the spacer that u use on the crank to replace the balancer gear on the crank. i got fucked on that cus my KS kit came with the spacer but it doesn't have little magnets on them for the CKP sensor to read so it took me like 3 month to figure out why i was in limp mode after i put my motor together. finally i had to take out the spacer and put the old gear back in. this only applies to 5th gens where the TDC and CKP sensor are on the oil pump.
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  #17  
Old 06-22-2011, 08:38 PM
aznblueboy aznblueboy is offline
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can you install this kit without taking out the motor?
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2013, 02:52 PM
jsinher3 jsinher3 is offline
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sorry for bumping an old thread but, how is the motor running since you did this? im planning on doing this as well and im a lil nervous.. im not rebuilding the motor yet so i will not be tearing down the block soo my main concern is because everything is torqued down im assuming bearings may have stretched and when i go to remove the caps i will need to replace the main and crank bearings or just the cap bearings because of that... if thats not the case and my stock bearing are still in good shape how can i make sure when everything is done that the bearings are installed right or wont fail because i removed the main caps?

my other concerns are when removing the girdle how do i keep the main caps from coming out with it, and when you tapped the hole did you do this with the BS still in place or with it gone and how did you get the shavings out, or did you just leave them there?
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2013, 03:14 PM
98vtec 98vtec is offline
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you would just tighten the main caps back down using factory specifications.

its just a bearing, pulling the mains off is not going to effect anything unless you dont torque them back to spec. The caps only go on one way. Sometimes the cap will come off the girdle which is fine because the caps have to come off the girdle anyway to plug a few of the passages with the plugs provided. however, being me I would inspect the bearings while you are in there. But thats just me. I know once i open an engine up, i am going to find a weak component/something worn and ill end up spending more money than planned lol.

when you tap the hole, put grease on the tap. this will catch 99% of the shavings. and just to be sure, run the engine when you are done and change the oil/filter.

Once you get into this and you have any questions, email me. bbmototuning@gmail.com

its an easy procedure but care needs to be taken when pressing the plugs into place and ensuring they are straight.
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