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Old 11-30-2009, 11:50 AM   #1
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How to: Replace Oil Cooler O-Ring

Alright here's the deal. I know that myself and a few others are having some oil leak issues. For myself, it is the oil cooler O-ring. To determine whether or not this may be your problem, jack up your car, start it up and get underneath. Use a flashlight to look up at the oil filter, and the oil cooler (the part which the oil filter screws on to). For me, there is a constant drip coming from between the block and the oil cooler, so it was pretty easy to determine the cause of my problem.

-A quick note before we begin. Using the right tool for the job should be paramount. I can't tell you how many times I've come across friends who have used the wrong tool for the job, and got themselves into deeper shit than they started in. Common mistakes are wrong sized screw drivers, which often lead to stripped screws, or wrong sized sockets, which lead to stripped bolts. Always do yourself a favor and make sure you USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB

(image originally linked by THEJGB3)


In the picture, the oil cooler is part #16(base model) #17(type SH). The oil cooler O-ring itself is part #32.

The listed part number @ LINK is 91316-PT6-003

I purchased mine from Herb Chambers Honda in Seekonk MA. The Honda part number is 91316-PE7-730


Here's how I'm doing it. First and foremost, drain the oil. Your car could use an oil change anyway. Don't argue with me, just drain it. After the flow of oil has stopped, remove the oil filter. This exposes the bolt which you need to remove.


^Oil Filter (keep in mind gentlemen this is not a BRAND DEBATE, just keep making remarks about my having to stop halfway through this write-up and leave the brands out of it! ) You can see the little drip of oil there on the oil cooler itself.

The bolt is a 30mm, and you'll do better with a deep socket. Please, please, please, save yourself the trouble. DO NOT USE ADJUSTABLE WRENCHES ON THIS. It will only strip this bolt and make you cry a little on the inside. Removing the bolt is pretty straightforward, so do it. Lefty loosey righty tighty.


^Bolt removed

At this point the oil cooler is free, and you can swivel it around a bit.


^There you can see how much you can move the oil cooler, and where the old O-ring sits.

To remove the old O-Ring, I ended up using a razor, stuck it into the side of the O-ring, and used leverage to pry it out.


^My old O-ring was very brittle, it snapped coming out

Putting the new O-Ring on: Just like the oil filter O-ring, stick your finger in some oil and lube this baby up. The oil on the O-ring will help it stay in place while you're fiddling around lining up the bolt.


^New O-ring in and sitting pretty.

At this point, you've got the new O-ring on, and are ready to tighten down the 30mm bolt. If you've got a torque wrench handy, torque the sucker down to 54 lbs-ft. If not, keep in mind you can damage components by over-tightening.

Now that I've finished, tiny bits of rep are appreciated. Take your cheap shots in the rep too, as well as the thread

-=PHOTOS=-


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Last edited by xxfallacyxx; 01-10-2011 at 12:57 PM. Reason: updated w/pics
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Old 11-30-2009, 11:57 AM   #2
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Hahahahaha, you made the write-up before you even finished....!

Good luck bro.
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:25 PM   #3
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Hahahahaha, you made the write-up before you even finished....!

Good luck bro.
Yup, and got stuck waiting for a right sized socket. I'm gonna be late for work and all!
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:37 PM   #4
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Haha, you can't just leave us hanging like this!

I seem to have a small leak in the back somewhere, but I wonder if it's even worth my time figuring out what it is.
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:41 PM   #5
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Hey look at me I'm fallacy and I'm leaving a pointless reply so I can come back later to edit it and make it less pointless.
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> replica foglights, footwell lights, temperature cable fix, EDM rear fogs, Morimoto projectors, replica fogs, and more!

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Old 11-30-2009, 03:49 PM   #6
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keeping my eye on this... i'm sure the h22a1 is similar to the h22a4 and i think this is my oil leek problem too
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:21 PM   #7
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I had high hopes fallacy....
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:28 PM   #8
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let us all down
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:58 PM   #9
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You will need a 30MM (1/2" drive) socket. I bought mine at Sears (Craftsman FTW).gl



91316-PT6-003 O-RING (62.4X3.1) this WAS the part# before it was 'superceded' to
Replaced by: 91316-PE7-730

91316-PE7-730 O-RING (62.4X3.1)
list is $2.52

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Old 11-30-2009, 06:51 PM   #10
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Just replaces mines at work today. Massive oil leak heading to work lucky I didn't lock up my motor.
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:14 PM   #11
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Rained out, finishing tomorrow :\
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Old 11-30-2009, 09:25 PM   #12
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GL getting the ORING to stick in the groove the 1st time. Took me 3 tries .....and I have an SH. So yea this is where owning an SH makes you say FML. PPl say using certain grease or lubricants can help it stay in place while you place the cooler back, but i just used my fingers and put equal pressure on all sides of the ring to make jam in there. Torque specs if i remember correctly was 54lbs on the cooler bolt, but double check bc i did this in March. GL!!!!! for those with an SH, PO has a write up with pics.
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Old 11-30-2009, 11:20 PM   #13
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I think I may start an engine swap thread now......and hopefully I can finish it up in a few years from now if I'm as talented as Fal.

That thread will be AWESOME.

Wednesday--"removed my battery today folks"

Two weeks later--"....and now it's back in. Forgot I had to go grocery shoppin'. Tune in next month, I'll be removing my oil cap."

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Old 11-30-2009, 11:46 PM   #14
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FYI you don't need to drain the oil. The sump is lower than the cooler, oil won't flow up, you'll leak out the same amount with the pan empty or full.
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Its a bunch of fruitcakes in a pie that doesnt mix, with no baking experience.
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Old 11-30-2009, 11:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlude90 View Post
FYI you don't need to drain the oil. The sump is lower than the cooler, oil won't flow up, you'll leak out the same amount with the pan empty or full.
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...
Here's how I'm doing it. First and foremost, drain the oil. Your car could use an oil change anyway. Don't argue with me, just drain it. ...
who do i listen to? to the helm's mobile, robin! ( http://msaf.net/main/?p=211 )

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I think I may start an engine swap thread now......and hopefully I can finish it up in a few years from now if I'm as talented as Fal.

That thread will be AWESOME.

Wednesday--"removed my battery today folks"

Two weeks later--"....and now it's back in. Forgot I had to go grocery shoppin'. Tune in next month, I'll be removing my oil cap."


and a standing ovation for you, my friend. well done!
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:24 AM   #16
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dang did he fin
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:25 AM   #17
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dang did he fin
Considering I started the thread yesterday, got rained out, and woke up first thing this morning to finish, yes I did finish Editing now, with pictures!

As for the rest of you ingrates! SHADDUPA YO MOUTH!
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:51 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pIERCE View Post
I think I may start an engine swap thread now......and hopefully I can finish it up in a few years from now if I'm as talented as Fal.

That thread will be AWESOME.

Wednesday--"removed my battery today folks"

Two weeks later--"....and now it's back in. Forgot I had to go grocery shoppin'. Tune in next month, I'll be removing my oil cap."

Looking forward to reading! Maybe you could take it one step further and just make a blank post, and leave us wondering!

Quote:
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FYI you don't need to drain the oil. The sump is lower than the cooler, oil won't flow up, you'll leak out the same amount with the pan empty or full.
2 birds, one stone. You're under there, it won't hurt anything lol
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:54 AM   #19
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Yes, you are correct. Just not a necessary step, but not a bad idea
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Quote:
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Its a bunch of fruitcakes in a pie that doesnt mix, with no baking experience.
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:56 AM   #20
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mhm, which is why I specified "This is how I"m doing it". You're right though, it's not a necessary step
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Old 12-01-2009, 09:45 AM   #21
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Oh hey, where'd those pictures and guidance come from.....

.....aaaaa doop-ty-doop-ty-doooo....I think I'll just be on my way now.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:49 AM   #22
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I think i have an oil leak from here too, and also from my balance shaft seal from the t belt bottom cover fukin pos honda
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:26 AM   #23
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call this my rep fally poo - it wouldnt let me - or would prefer the facebook rep?

actually im gonna do this when 5spd comes down and we go to town on our oil pans too
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:04 PM   #24
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Just an FYI for everyone, AutoZone rents 30mm deep-well sockets for removing axle bolts that work perfectly for this application. It's free suckas!
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Old 12-06-2009, 05:44 PM   #25
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Thanks for the thread man I'm having the same problem with my H. Will replace it tomorrow.
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