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Old 03-28-2014, 06:15 PM   #151
KAOS_2.0SI
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has anyone done a pgmfi specific version of this write up?

since I'm going to be removing the engine, I will be doing quite a bit of tidying up...

do plan to keep functional egr though, to lower combustion temps since I'm going the high comp route...
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:51 PM   #152
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Not as far as I know. Pgmfi is a lot trickier due to fooling the ecu to keep the pgmfi light off and to prevent the ecu from throwing codes...
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Quote:
Aren't there like 3 people in Montana?

So that means what, 2/3rds of the population of Montana drive Preludes by my math.
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:58 PM   #153
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Since removing the vacuum mess I got an issue. Any ideas?
The lude runs and drives perfect. Lots of power and no miss. We can drive as long as we like until we turn it off. After we do that, when it's warmed up, it will not start again until it cools down quite a bit (exact temp unknown). It fires up immediately when cold, do not need to pump throttle, just turn the key for a second.

What I've done so far to try to fix the problem:
New Fuel Pump
Rewired fuel pump to bypass relay
New Accel 8140 Super Stock coil
New plugs, cap, rotor, wires
New Ignition Control Module
New Distributor Pickup Coil

Some of the things I did to get it back to running condition:
Rewired nearly all the electrical (rats ate it and left nests I removed)
Complete new exhaust. Pacesetter header, Glasspack, Turbo muffler and all new tubes.
Rebuild braking system; all
All new light bulbs, complete replacement.
Many many hours of cleaning and a lot of other odds and ends.

I'm getting fuel (can smell and hear it, plus tried starting fluid). No help
It looks like it's getting spark.
Also, adjusted valves, found a few a couple of thousandths tight. Still no start
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:07 PM   #154
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Smile I really apreciate thsi thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by fmn716 View Post
Seriously post whoring are u looking get an infraction

There shouldn't be a problem with the pics what's the error message it displays
Not in the least I was just trying to get may post count up enough to see all images on this thread because I'm using a set of Honda Civic carbs onto a Nissan N15 engine for my Locost clubman and this thread has been an utter godsend to work out just what I can delete from the carbs.

My plan is to build an engine that does not require any sort of computer because I am utterly over intermittent electrical issues on my car and as i'm a bit obsessed with weight saving I am hoping to lose a few KG just in removing the excess wiring.
Fir those interested my website about may ride is here:

http://iainseven.wordpress.com/

Cheers
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:08 PM   #155
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SNAFU -- I ran into a very similar problem after de-smogging mine. I ended up removing the main relay and wiring in a switch to turn the fuel pump on and off. I leave it on except when needed. When it didn't want to start, I'd turn the fuel pump off when I cranked it. It made starting much easier. On the carbed cars that main relay is only for the fuel pump. If you do this, wire the switch to the 2 outer wire ports where the relay fits, leaving the middle spot empty. I did sort out what caused it, but that was so long ago now and I've changed a few things since then so I can't remember. I think the biggest thing was having the 3 vacuum ports on top of each carb connected right...
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Believe me, it's faster than it looks...try hanging with me in the twisties...
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Quote:
Aren't there like 3 people in Montana?

So that means what, 2/3rds of the population of Montana drive Preludes by my math.

Last edited by fullthrottle_man; 04-07-2014 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:40 AM   #156
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need help

Ok. The black box u removed in the second picture. The bottom big house that runs under the carburetors. What did u do to the hi ole that it goes to? Plug it?
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:57 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullthrottle_man View Post
Ok gang. I decided to start a thread about what's needed, not needed, what can get pitched and what must stay as far as the vacuum spaghetti goes under the hood. The guinea pig is my 87 DX. All you Si guys, I'm not sure how much of this will apply to you. But I'm sure it'll at least help. Anyways, I'll update this as often as possible to keep you guys informed of my progress with the spaghetti removal.....

And remember, I'm not responsible for anyone screwin up their car by following what I did. And smog-test takers, you guys will probably just have to wonder how much this might help your car instead of actually doing it... LOL

All vacuum line numbers I refer to are how they are numbered from the factory (or at least as far as I know...all my line numbers correspond with the manuals I've seen anyways...).

First thing I did was ditch the EGR. Emissions crap. Unplug lines #4 and #5 coming from the black box of death (right side of engine bay on firewall) where they meet the metal lines on the engine. Plug off the metal lines. You can also open up the black box and remove the vacuum switches/solenoids that those lines went to, or just cut off the rubber lines where they go into the box. Then you can leave the EGR valve there if you want, or you can make a block-off plate to tidy it up a bit. Also you can remove the EGR tube going to (coming from) the exhaust manifold to the intake. A plug will have to be made for the exhaust manifold, and if you do the block-off plate you may need a plug made for the intake side as well.
6/1/08 -- I did some removal of goods in the black box of death. If you crack open the box you will find a myriad of vacuum switches, check valves, an air filter, etc. etc. At the bottom inside the box is a large aluminum double valve. That's for the EGR and can be taken out of the box and tossed. At this point you can also get rid of the vacuum switches and air filter that are connected to the aluminum valve assembly. Two of the vacuum switches have a single wire going to them. Chop the wire on each of the switches and yank them out. Then you can reassemble the box and reinstall.
Stuff from the black box...



Now, see the black box next to the upper timing cover? And the big hose going from it to the black box sitting on the intake? Get rid of all of it. Both black boxes and the associated large tubes. I kept the tube that runs from the box at the timing cover to the air cleaner assembly and plugged it off. The smaller lines just trim back and plug however you see fit that appeals to your eyes. The aluminum piece connected to the second black box (the one on the intake manifold) I haven't taken off yet so I don't know if there's any holes to plug from taking that piece off. But the large tube from that piece to the exhaust manifold can be removed also and both ends plugged. A plug at the intake-side of that tube may not be necessary, I'm not sure yet since I haven't taken that tube off as of yet.
6/1/08 -- You can also remove the white vacuum switch by the left side of the air cleaner assembly and plug the line going to the metal vacuum lines and also plug the other large line going to the air cleaner. Since the two air chamber boxes (the one on the intake and the one next to the upper timing cover) are gone, that vacuum switch is not needed either.
Stuff from the 2 black boxes on intake and next to timing cover...


Another thing you can toss in the garbage is the Anti-Afterburn Valve. Unplug the vacuum line from the AAB Valve to the metal vacuum line and plug the metal line. Then trim back the smaller lines, plug them off and toss the valve. Not needed for function of the carburetors. All it does is hold the throttle partially open when shifting.

I'll add more to this as I do them. I'll also try to get some pics posted so you guys can see exactly what I'm talking about and where. I'm only putting in the removal of stuff that doesn't adversely affect the performance/driveability of my own car. If it makes my car run like dog$&%t, then I hook it back up and consider it a needful thing to have on there...

6/1/08 -- Control box #2 located on the left strut tower...yank it off and throw it and the vacuum canisters connected to it (one below the power steering reservoir, the other is under the left headlight). Then you can plug off the lines at the metal end. You can also get rid of the little orange vacuum switch connected to it lower down on the strut tower. There's another vacuum switch with three vacuum lines on top of the strut tower. That one needs to stay, but the one vacuum line can be redone so it's just a single line--not split off to elsewhere.
Control box #2 and attatched stuff...


The vacuum line that needed to be redone...


The only good use for Autolite plugs per my past experiences...
Would this be the same for a 85 prelude (et2)?
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:44 AM   #158
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^ Yes. There may be very minor differences here and there, but generally speaking it will all be identical.
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:29 AM   #159
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Originally Posted by knifemind View Post
^ Yes. There may be very minor differences here and there, but generally speaking it will all be identical.
Thanks I will be 🔧 on the lude today.
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:02 PM   #160
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what do i do with the all the vacuum lines that come up from under the carbs do they just need to have manafold vacuum ? i had mine running good a while back but i cant seem to get it the idle right its rough
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:39 PM   #161
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i did all this to my car lije in October and took everything offf and had all the vacuum lines right but it ran good just a high idle now its running again but rough
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:58 PM   #162
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ok so I pulled everything off and routed my vacuum lines but I did not install the metal airfilter plate (that the filter attaches to) didn't know if it being off would affect the way it ran. the only way I can get it to start is if spray carb cleaner in the carbs. itll fire right up and run until the carb cleaner is gone then it dies again.

my question is do I need to install that metal plate since it does have some solenoids on it (that I'm pretty sure are important for the carbs to operate lol)

thanks guys
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:12 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chughart2010 View Post
ok so I pulled everything off and routed my vacuum lines but I did not install the metal airfilter plate (that the filter attaches to) didn't know if it being off would affect the way it ran. the only way I can get it to start is if spray carb cleaner in the carbs. itll fire right up and run until the carb cleaner is gone then it dies again.

my question is do I need to install that metal plate since it does have some solenoids on it (that I'm pretty sure are important for the carbs to operate lol)

thanks guys
There is something else causing it. I ran my carbs totally stripped for a year or two. Like they're pictured 3 pages back or so in this thread.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:01 PM   #164
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ya I'm pretty sure I found what was causing most of my issues. 1) I didn't let the carbs build up enough fuel pressure and 2) when I rebuilt the carbs I left a small o-ring off the float bowl which was causing fuel to run out from the bottom of the carbs.

also there are 3 vacuum ports on float bowl cover on the drivers carb and 2 vacuum ports on the float bowl cover on the passenger carb when I read through this not that long ago I don't recall where they were routed to. I tied them 3 of the 5 together and plugged them to straight vacuum and the other 2 are just running to straight vacuum will that work? I havnt had a chance to hook the carbs back up yet so idk if it will run/start lol

just trying to eliminate all the emissions shit and make the thing run right lol
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