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Old 02-17-2008, 01:14 PM   #51
Squad Walker
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Thanks for the write up. I did this yesterday. The hardest part of the whole deal was getting those damn 12mm nuts of the EGR valve because of having not much clearance above the nuts b/c of the side of the EGR valve in the way. I didn't have a shallow socket & neither did the autozone I went to.

I ended up spraying the nuts with some PB nut blaster & let it sit for a bit. It also helps to take off the IACV valve, the fuel pressure regulator & the fuel rail before you tackle the EGR. I ended up removing the nuts with the closed end of a wrench (wasn't six sided), working the wrench in the area where the fuel rail goes. As said before, just make sure you get a good seat or you round the top of the nuts off.

I even pulled my injectors out & shoved balls of saran wrap in the injector holes to keep that nasty carbon from falling down there. Also, be careful when you remove the injectors not to loose the little O-rings at the base, each injector has two at the bottom & one small little do-hicky at the top that can slide out if you're not careful. Would suck to loose any of those in you engine bay somewhere.

This was my first time ever removing the injectors and I almost lost those o-ring pieces... also, try to make sure you keep car cleaner off of any/all gaskets O-rings, they'll swell. I got some on one injector & had a bitch of time pushing it back in the injector hole.

Also, I removed my egr ports with just a drill bit, slightly larger screws & the claw on a hammer. I skipped making/getting a slide hammer. They pulled out just fine with a nice jerk. Get a few screws if you do this, b/c you'll most likely bend a couple when jerking on the plugs.

I did this b/c I got a cel code for EGR. But, it seems to accelerate & idle smoother, also notice my engine seems to be more audible. One things for sure, I got a lot of nasty crap out of the EGR & those ports & I'm not getting a cel code anymore. Thanks again for the write up, it was extremely helpful.
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Old 03-29-2008, 02:06 PM   #52
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Just did this today. Egr ports were all completely clogged.
Went alright except for when I lost one of the three fuel rail spacers.. Never found it and ended up making a new one using a bunch of washers.

Used a wrench to take out the egr valve, fairly easy.
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:53 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LudaPower View Post
Just did this today. Egr ports were all completely clogged.
Went alright except for when I lost one of the three fuel rail spacers.. Never found it and ended up making a new one using a bunch of washers.

Used a wrench to take out the egr valve, fairly easy.
Feel any difference? When i did mine I didn't feel that much of a difference. Who knows.
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:25 AM   #54
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Not really, maybe smoother acceleration, but I can't really tell.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:32 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squad Walker View Post
Thanks for the write up. I did this yesterday. The hardest part of the whole deal was getting those damn 12mm nuts of the EGR valve because of having not much clearance above the nuts b/c of the side of the EGR valve in the way. I didn't have a shallow socket & neither did the autozone I went to.

I ended up spraying the nuts with some PB nut blaster & let it sit for a bit. It also helps to take off the IACV valve, the fuel pressure regulator & the fuel rail before you tackle the EGR. I ended up removing the nuts with the closed end of a wrench (wasn't six sided), working the wrench in the area where the fuel rail goes. As said before, just make sure you get a good seat or you round the top of the nuts off.

I even pulled my injectors out & shoved balls of saran wrap in the injector holes to keep that nasty carbon from falling down there. Also, be careful when you remove the injectors not to loose the little O-rings at the base, each injector has two at the bottom & one small little do-hicky at the top that can slide out if you're not careful. Would suck to loose any of those in you engine bay somewhere.

This was my first time ever removing the injectors and I almost lost those o-ring pieces... also, try to make sure you keep car cleaner off of any/all gaskets O-rings, they'll swell. I got some on one injector & had a bitch of time pushing it back in the injector hole.

Also, I removed my egr ports with just a drill bit, slightly larger screws & the claw on a hammer. I skipped making/getting a slide hammer. They pulled out just fine with a nice jerk. Get a few screws if you do this, b/c you'll most likely bend a couple when jerking on the plugs.

Good points you made. One of my o-rings was a pain to get back in the injector bore since I think I got a tiny bit of carb cleaner on it.

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I did this b/c I got a cel code for EGR. But, it seems to accelerate & idle smoother, also notice my engine seems to be more audible. One things for sure, I got a lot of nasty crap out of the EGR & those ports & I'm not getting a cel code anymore. Thanks again for the write up, it was extremely helpful.
I noticed the exact same thing. It idled a tad smoother, felt smoother while accelerating, and the engine just sounded a little better overall afterwards. Nothing dramatic, but just a little. I was amazed at how much nasty crap came out of there and thankfully I won't have to do it again for quite some time, if ever again. The code never came back, either.

And all of you guys that said thanks are welcome, I'm glad it helped.
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Old 04-26-2008, 06:12 PM   #56
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Is it safe for the engine to be spraying Carb Cleaner through the EGR plug location? Should one do an oil change after this? Or something?
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Old 04-26-2008, 06:15 PM   #57
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Quote:
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Is it safe for the engine to be spraying Carb Cleaner through the EGR plug location? Should one do an oil change after this? Or something?
I dunno but I did it lol. I didnt use too much though, and the stuff that pooled I soaked up with a rag I stuck down the hole. No problems starting it up afterwards, no stumbling or weird idle or anything. Anything that gets into the combustion chamber should just get burned off immediately anyways
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:07 PM   #58
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Is it safe for the engine to be spraying Carb Cleaner through the EGR plug location? Should one do an oil change after this? Or something?
I must've used about two cans of this shit in my ports, but I blew it out with an air compressor and was perfect.
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Old 04-28-2008, 05:57 PM   #59
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i has no air compressor
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:11 PM   #60
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just stick a rag down there and soak up the residual carb cleaner. It will be fine. Make sure to replace the gasket as well, if it's bad that is.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:14 PM   #61
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There's a reason they use carb cleaner.
It's flammable. It burns. It's kinda like gasoline. The engine will burn it.

Ever make a fire in your backyard all the while drunk and decide to test stuff in the garage that burns the most?
Carb cleaner is one of the best for that
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:33 PM   #62
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just stick a rag down there and soak up the residual carb cleaner. It will be fine. Make sure to replace the gasket as well, if it's bad that is.
uh, what gasket? I was talking about cleaning egr ports...
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:35 PM   #63
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from reading the ABOVE, it seems as thought i am to be removing my FUEL RAIL, FPR, and INJECTORS in addition to my EGR valve and PLUGS. is this all necessary?
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:07 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grego View Post
uh, what gasket? I was talking about cleaning egr ports...
I was referring to the gasket on the actual EGR valve.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:15 PM   #65
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Quote:
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I was referring to the gasket on the actual EGR valve.
I didn't see a gasket for my egr valve!!
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:47 PM   #66
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very good write up. thank you.

i have cleaned the EGR valve already, but 1 question though. For remove the old plug, i still unclearify about it. What is the easy way to take it off? drill it? its my first time, so i dont want to screw up.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:55 PM   #67
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Quote:
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I didn't see a gasket for my egr valve!!
if you couldn't tell it was there then it's probably fine lol. mine didnt look like a gasket anymore, it was all flattened out haha. it was all in one piece still so i just left it.
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:15 AM   #68
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Very nice write up. I talked to a Honda tech at a Honda dealer and he recommended using a "top engine cleaner" instead of carb/choke cleaner. He said "go to a GM dealer and buy CLEEN or a Mopar (Dodge/Chrysler) dealer and buy MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. He said this stuff "just instantly melts the carbon into liquid"
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:19 PM   #69
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from reading the ABOVE, it seems as thought i am to be removing my FUEL RAIL, FPR, and INJECTORS in addition to my EGR valve and PLUGS. is this all necessary?
I suppose there is some way to get it done without removing all of that, but I really didn't see one. Also, it takes literally 5 minutes tops to remove the IAC, fuel rail, FPR, and the injectors. You don't need to remove the line from the rail, you just unbolt it and swing it out of the way. Spending a few minutes to remove those will make the whole thing much, much easier I guarantee it.

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very good write up. thank you.

i have cleaned the EGR valve already, but 1 question though. For remove the old plug, i still unclearify about it. What is the easy way to take it off? drill it? its my first time, so i dont want to screw up.
Thanks. Yeah, just drill a hole straight through it and use a vacuum every now and then to suck up the shavings. Then tap threads into the hole and then remove the plugs. They aren't in there too hard if you get a good hit with the slide hammer. A few of them I removed completely in one hit.
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:25 PM   #70
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I didn't see a gasket for my egr valve!!
I'm glad you mentioned this since mine didn't have one either and I know they sell them at parts stores so maybe someone had it off before or it didnt get put on at the factory. I didn't have one at the time and I needed the car running again the same night so I put it back on without one. I might put one on next time I need to do something under the hood.

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Very nice write up. I talked to a Honda tech at a Honda dealer and he recommended using a "top engine cleaner" instead of carb/choke cleaner. He said "go to a GM dealer and buy CLEEN or a Mopar (Dodge/Chrysler) dealer and buy MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. He said this stuff "just instantly melts the carbon into liquid"
Thanks for the tip. The carb cleaner liquified the carbon, but it took a few sprays. One of the guys on the boards asked me to help with their EGR ports and I think I will tell him to use the top engine cleaner instead.
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Old 05-02-2008, 04:34 PM   #71
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im not really understanding the actual Slide Hammer that you made.
What connects the rod to the plugs? Slide hammers from the store clamp onto the nail/screw
Are you screwing the rod the from slide hammer directly into the plug? If so, how?

That and even the construction of the DIY Slide Hammer I don't find very clear, you listed the parts, but didnt explain how to put them together.

I don't really get it. Trying to get this done this weekend, and i could use some help...
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:52 PM   #72
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im not really understanding the actual Slide Hammer that you made.
What connects the rod to the plugs? Slide hammers from the store clamp onto the nail/screw
Are you screwing the rod the from slide hammer directly into the plug? If so, how?

That and even the construction of the DIY Slide Hammer I don't find very clear, you listed the parts, but didnt explain how to put them together.

I don't really get it. Trying to get this done this weekend, and i could use some help...
Correct. The rod from the slide hammer screws into the plugs since I tapped threads into them. That is also the way shown in the Honda TSB. Their method uses a normal slide hammer, but with a bolt that screws into the EGR plugs after they are tapped. Also, I explained how to put the parts together. You just drill holes into the center of the caps big enough for the rod to fit through and then just screw the caps onto the ends of the pipe. That's really all there is to it. Then just slide the rod straight through the pipe and caps and screw a nut onto the end of the rod so that the "hammer" has something to slam against when you use it. If you have access to a normal slide hammer that can clamp onto a bolt then I would use that, but nobody in town had them at the time and plus this was cheap and worked flawlessly. I hope this helped explain it somewhat better.
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Old 05-14-2008, 05:59 PM   #73
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yeah, i was just being retarded. Everything went smoothly! the DIY Slide Hammer worked great!
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:04 PM   #74
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I am new to this site and I have a problem with my egr system. right now i have the vacuum line that connects to the EGR disconnected because when I have it pluged in it will not release the valve after opening it. Does anyone know why? I switched out my egr solenoid with three others from H22 engines and they are providing vacuum under load but it leaves the vavle open. Anything will help.
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Old 06-16-2008, 05:02 AM   #75
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Thanks for The Great Write-Up
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