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Old 04-30-2007, 10:05 AM   #1
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DIY: H22A4 Valve Adjustment! by JLUDE

Adjusted my valves on Saturday. First time for this motor (69K on the clock). Made a noticable difference. The power band is smoother. I used to have some roughness between 4-4.5K rpms...that is totally gone now and the motor idles quieter!

here's the proceedure:

1. Download the helms manual! http://spoonhonda.com/downloads.htm

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable (closest to the front of the car)

3. Remove the Valve cover

4. Remove the spark plugs

5. Rotate the engine with the crank pulley bolt (19mm) according to the Helms manual to get each cylinder you're adjusting to TDC on the compression stroke.

6. Check and adjust the exhaust and intake vavles on each cylinder at TDC, make sure you use a torque wrench to torque the valve nuts back down!

7. Intake valve clearance (0.15 - 0.19mm)

8. Exhaust valve clearance (0.17 - 0.21mm)

here's the pics!

Step 1: Remove the driver side front wheel. that little hole is where you'll put your 19mm socket and extension to turn the engine counter clockwise (left).


Close up of the hole to the crank pulley bolt:





Spark Plug wires Removed, do not disconnect from the distributor cap!


Shows what bolts/nuts need removed to free the valve cover:


Remove nuts with 10mm socket wrench and extension:




Remove the vacum line that goes to the intake:














Rotate the engine, counter clockwise only to get each cylinder at TDC! Follow the helms manual for proper alignment of the cam gear for each cylinder to be at correct, TDC!


Finally the valve clearances are checked as shown:


This would be a LOT easier with the tool that Honda sells for this purpose. It can be done without it but it requires some trail and error to get each valve right!


Reassemble the Valve cover as removed. It's a good idea to clean it well and spread some high temp gasket maker (slicone) on the seam before reinstalling to prevent oil leaks! Do not toque the nuts that hold the valve cover down tight! Hand tight only with a small wrench, I used about 15 ft lbs, if that...just until they seat. Enjoy a smoother running motor!

- JLUDE
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Last edited by JLude; 05-01-2007 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:16 AM   #2
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Thanks!

The tool that honda sells... what exactly does it look like? Does it hold the screw in place while turning the nut or something?
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:22 AM   #3
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good write up buddy!
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket3004 View Post
Thanks!

The tool that honda sells... what exactly does it look like? Does it hold the screw in place while turning the nut or something?
That's exactly what it does. It's a 10mm socket with a hole though it and a little screw driver that you stick through the hole to hold the screw from turning as you tighten down the nut.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:43 AM   #5
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Thumbs up

Good write up Jlude, thanks!
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:44 AM   #6
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Nice write up.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:48 AM   #7
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Grrrreat job thats gonna help a lot of people, myself included
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:09 AM   #8
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you make it look soo easy jlude. great write up!
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:26 AM   #9
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How exactly do you adjust the vavles.. meaning do you put a certain size feeler gauge in there and tighten it down or... (is it detailed in the manual?)
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Old 04-30-2007, 12:20 PM   #10
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Who needs the Helms manual with a write-up like this? Nice.
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:00 PM   #11
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JLude is full of win and awesome
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket3004 View Post
How exactly do you adjust the vavles.. meaning do you put a certain size feeler gauge in there and tighten it down or... (is it detailed in the manual?)
You insert the size feeler gauge you want it to be. For instance if the specified range is .15 - .19mm then insert say a .17mm gauge. If it slides in with no resistance the clearance is too loose. If it's hard to get it in there then it is too tight. The clearance is right when the correct gauge goes in with slight drag.

- JL
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:27 PM   #13
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Thanks JLude...awesome write up, this will definitely help me when I do my valve adjustments. This is definitely a sticky.
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:52 PM   #14
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Nice write up brotha! Rep to ya!

This procedure is alot easier than you think: once you get the valve cover off and actually look at whats involved, there really is not alot of room to mess it up. Loosen nut, slide feeler gauges, tighten nut. Taa-daa!
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:56 PM   #15
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Good stuff bro. Your write ups are always good.
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:58 PM   #16
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Quick question that I've been paranoid about lately: Is it (generally) a bad sign if the inside of the valve cover is black? Car has 101K miles on it.
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Old 04-30-2007, 02:10 PM   #17
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you can also help your car pass smog by adjusting them on the loose side before you go and tightening them back up afterward

you will have less lisft and less duration menaing less fuel is going in so less emissions coming out

i saw abouta 75 point decrease in nox by adjusting to the loos service specs rather than tight
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Old 04-30-2007, 02:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestapler View Post
Quick question that I've been paranoid about lately: Is it (generally) a bad sign if the inside of the valve cover is black? Car has 101K miles on it.
That's normal if it's been regular oil (non-synthetic)
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:25 PM   #19
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Nice write-up. I'm hoping to do this sometime this week.
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:29 PM   #20
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Are intake and exhaust done at the same time?

For example, start with cylinder 1 at TDC. Make adjustments for the intake and exhaust, then move to cylinder 3? Or do intake for 1-4 then exhaust 1-4?

I'm not sure if it matters, but I thought I'd just throw it out there.

Very helpful pics
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:56 PM   #21
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nice writeup jesse i was just looking at the pics and not reading heavily did you mention to unhook the battery somewhere? generally speaking when you want to play with the altenator cables you should unhook the battery. sory if i missed it. still a great how-to
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quieTP_11 View Post
Are intake and exhaust done at the same time?

For example, start with cylinder 1 at TDC. Make adjustments for the intake and exhaust, then move to cylinder 3? Or do intake for 1-4 then exhaust 1-4?

I'm not sure if it matters, but I thought I'd just throw it out there.

Very helpful pics
do them at the same time.

1 i/e, 3 i/e, 4 i/e, 2 i/e, done.
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:22 PM   #23
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thanks again jesse...
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:37 PM   #24
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J, you are the F'n MAN.

Jlude deserves a shitload of rep points for this quality write up, so get to work!

And yea, your head is uber clean.

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Old 04-30-2007, 06:40 PM   #25
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