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Old 10-24-2012, 07:38 PM   #3751
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i have an OG mugen front aero that has t been painted or used. cost was right around the range of $2000 by the time it was shipped, processed and delivered.

expect to pay more for one in the same condition and about halff that for a decent used one.

as for the mounting, i have found my mugen to mount up easily as well as fit perfect, the same cannot be said for the replica kits, they fit like shit.
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:41 AM   #3752
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i have an OG mugen front aero that has t been painted or used. cost was right around the range of $2000 by the time it was shipped, processed and delivered.

expect to pay more for one in the same condition and about halff that for a decent used one.

as for the mounting, i have found my mugen to mount up easily as well as fit perfect, the same cannot be said for the replica kits, they fit like shit.
Really the reps are crap for fitting? I want a real one, but I sure as hell won't pay $2,000 for one.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:50 AM   #3753
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I took a golf club to my old rep. It was fun. It broke after scraping once. Junk.

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Old 10-25-2012, 12:56 AM   #3754
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I took a golf club to my old rep. It was fun. It broke after scraping once. Junk.

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What's the reps made out and the real one?
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:11 PM   #3755
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both are fiberglass
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:27 AM   #3756
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Is Mugen stronger fibreglass than the reps?
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:08 AM   #3757
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I'm just wondering how much should I be offering for a complete swap from clothes seats to leather seats. If leather seats are in good shape does 50$ seems reasonable? My seat are in perfect shape btw. Just to add more details the guy totalled his car and I'm already taking his front Fender.
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:05 PM   #3758
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^ hey this guy who totaled his car, would he be wiling to sell the front clip with no engine? I am in need of a front clip in good shape with no damage to the frame rails.
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If I had to guess, it's because the car is a thrown-together piece of shit.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:44 AM   #3759
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his front right end is all messed up. anyway are you in Canada ?
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:08 PM   #3760
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front clip
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:02 PM   #3761
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Thanks Wing 8806,

I will change the oil and look for metal shavings first then learn how to remove the timing belt covers and will post a video of the sound when possible to be more accurate.
Hey guys,

Here is the video clip of my engine noise and rough idle. Also towards the end of the video there looks like an open port? anyone know what is supposed to connect to this? I haven't changed the oil as suggested or removed the timing belt covers.

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Old 10-30-2012, 10:02 AM   #3762
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The open hole under your radiator hose (to the left of the heat shield/header) is just an access hole for the transmission. There's usually a simple rubber plug there - no big deal.


The hose that's hanging in front of the heat shield/header is part of your A/C system, which it appears you do not have.



That sound is horrific. Almost like metal on metal contact.... You need to check the oil for metal shavings, do a compression test, and check the timing belt. It's very possible you broke a valve or spun a bearing. Which unfortunately would result in needing a rebuild or another motor....
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:16 AM   #3763
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The open hole under your radiator hose (to the left of the heat shield/header) is just an access hole for the transmission. There's usually a simple rubber plug there - no big deal.


The hose that's hanging in front of the heat shield/header is part of your A/C system, which it appears you do not have.



That sound is horrific. Almost like metal on metal contact.... You need to check the oil for metal shavings, do a compression test, and check the timing belt. It's very possible you broke a valve or spun a bearing. Which unfortunately would result in needing a rebuild or another motor....
Thanks Wing8806 for your response,

A rebuild or another motor does not sound good at all...I just got this car too. I'll check the things you told me to.
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:16 PM   #3764
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Thanks Wing8806 for your response,

A rebuild or another motor does not sound good at all...I just got this car too. I'll check the things you told me to.
np man, i hope that's not the case.


There are still a number of other things it could be.... Thankfully a used motor isn't too much money.... you could get one for $600 or more (which is a lot since you just got the car)
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:17 PM   #3765
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I'd start by removing the accessory belts and see if the noise goes away.... those are bad noises lol, I doubt it would be running if all that noise was from the engine itself. Could be timing belt related though

How's the oil level?
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:55 AM   #3766
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Can anyone care to take some pictures of the clutch line mounting points from the slave cylinder to the elbow that mounts to the the transmission. I'm stuck on where the hard line should lay and where it mounts on the transmission.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:28 AM   #3767
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There is guy local to me that has jdm trans with lsd. Is there an easy way to tell since it's not in the car? Also can the lsd be taken out and put in the accord trans that currently in my car, I would like to keep it since I will be going turbo soon.

This is the first honda and first fwd car I've owned and I know nothing about hondas.

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Old 10-31-2012, 12:04 PM   #3768
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There is guy local to me that has jdm trans with lsd. Is there an easy way to tell since it's not in the car? Also can the lsd be taken out and put in the accord trans that currently in my car, I would like to keep it since I will be going turbo soon.

This is the first honda and first fwd car I've owned and I know nothing about hondas.

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This will tell you if it is or not

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2548441

I think any Prelude besides the Type S are LSD. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:56 PM   #3769
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This will tell you if it is or not

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2548441

I think any Prelude besides the Type S are LSD. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:25 PM   #3770
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Here's a question that might have already been asked/answered 1000x but I don't have enough time to really search the forums for the answer so I appologize ahead of time if I'm just reviving the horse that's already been beaten.

I just recently bought GC springs that only fit Koni yellows. If I buy Koni's off of a different car(Civic, Integra, ect) will it still fit on the lude or do I have to buy the specific ones?
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:04 AM   #3771
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I'd start by removing the accessory belts and see if the noise goes away.... those are bad noises lol, I doubt it would be running if all that noise was from the engine itself. Could be timing belt related though

How's the oil level?
The oil level is adequate. I haven't had a chance to fix anything yet.

I have another problem now...Car won't start. I started fine yesterday. The only thing I remember doing is trying to take my negative and positive bolts of by spraying wd 40 on the bolts cuz they were rusted and hard to take off. I also was installing the ECU back under the metal plate holder.

When I try to start it, it gets as far as the gauge lights coming on and it flickers sequentially with the alarm light and the door locks go crazy with it. When cranking, the lights go off on the gauge cluster (the gauge lights are dimmer than yesterday too). I think its a bad ground problem. I get no spark. It's a brand new battery. the negative bolt wont come off on battery cable because its badly rusted. The positive cable bolt is not as rusted and comes off easy. I'm thinking of replacing the whole negative wire due to the rust not getting appropriate ground. Could it be the starter?

Last edited by domamei; 11-01-2012 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:40 PM   #3772
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Bought a 97' about two months ago, automatic with 107,000 miles on it.. I was driving my car a few weeks ago and was at a stop about to go on the newburgh bridge when it acted funny and my check engine light came on, i was in d4 and the d4 light began flashing. When i went to accelerate qucikly it would just rev out and not move. Got it to a parking lot in Newburgh, my dad came and checked it. As long as i dont accelerate too quickly its fine, if i keep steady pressure it fine but if i increase the pressure there is an issue. Also went out there today to start it up and it wont turn over, i figured maybe you know someone who is good with hondas, especially preludes. Hope its not the tranny, i believe that it is something associated but not it directly, any help would be much appreciated Also the d4 light is no longer on was just on momentarily. Went out to start it earlier and the engine does not turn over. My friend even came over with his car in cast the battery didnt have enough juice. It still did not turn over, any help is much appreciated, Namaste _/|\_ <3
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:23 AM   #3773
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Valves??

I have a JDM H22A it has JG springs retainers and valves,(came with the car)I am looking to replace them. I'm lost. I have done some research but don't have real world experiences. Can someone point me in the right direction as to Brian Cower Skunk2 Blox Valvetech Ferrea titanium retainers or stainless steal. Its my DD so it wont be raced or anything. I do run it hard, but also drive 160 miles a day. So reliability is my main concern.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:29 PM   #3774
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noob

Hey guys, I'm definitely a noob to the prelude world. My brother and brother-in-law have talked me into getting a prelude and I know very little about them. I know to go ith a 5-speed, and not red..other than that, I dont know much. I'm young, and just looking for a nice car, that I can put some work into, but still have a nice car. I've found some for decent prices, but I wanna do some better research. Tips?

Thanks!
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:31 PM   #3775
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The oil level is adequate. I haven't had a chance to fix anything yet.

I have another problem now...Car won't start. I started fine yesterday. The only thing I remember doing is trying to take my negative and positive bolts of by spraying wd 40 on the bolts cuz they were rusted and hard to take off. I also was installing the ECU back under the metal plate holder.

When I try to start it, it gets as far as the gauge lights coming on and it flickers sequentially with the alarm light and the door locks go crazy with it. When cranking, the lights go off on the gauge cluster (the gauge lights are dimmer than yesterday too). I think its a bad ground problem. I get no spark. It's a brand new battery. the negative bolt wont come off on battery cable because its badly rusted. The positive cable bolt is not as rusted and comes off easy. I'm thinking of replacing the whole negative wire due to the rust not getting appropriate ground. Could it be the starter?
Hey guys just an update, I got the car starting again. I had a bad battery. Replaced it with a new one under warranty. The told me if this happens again, my car might have other problems. I think it was probably due to me spraying the wd 40 on the cables while on the battery (newb mistake lol). O yea I forgot to mention I have 2 check engine codes: P0301 and P1399 could this be causing the loud metal scraping noise as well?
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